Your small scale dream prop, 3d printed!

[Doctor Octoroc]

Hey everyone! I've started this thread to gauge general interest in 3d printed, small scale props. I focus on small scale because it's generally not affordable to 3d print larger props - just ask Talyaa about her Samus Aran Varia suit!

Brief back story on me, I'm a CAD designer currently modeling for design patent applications, but I'm phasing into product design. I've had one pretty successful run of 3d printed props on the RPF (Doctor Who sonic screwdrivers and other small props from the series) and I'm currently holding an INT thread for another run featuring the 8th Doctor's alternate sonic screwdriver (which I believe I am not allowed to link to, so I will not). I also have a thread with a collection of 1:5 scale models of video game consoles that I'm printing for myself. I've been doing 3d modeling for nearly 20 years and I enjoy it so much, I'm looking for more props and miniatures to model.

So my question to everyone is, what are some small props and miniatures you'd like to see? Something that isn't available on the market, perhaps? Something that is too costly or time consuming to fabricate by other means? Let the requests fly!!! If I see enough people showing interest in the same things, I'll definitely consider putting some time in on modeling them!

 

[Sean]

I robot backup pistol?

 

[Bluebox303]

1:1 star trek TMOST TOS phaser?

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

Good start! At first glance, both of these look like fun models, although I will say the cost will be a bit high for the size. I've priced similarly sized props before and they range from around $60 to $120 to print depending on wall thickness and details, as well as multiple pieces needed to make up the model (added material costs for parts within parts, etc.).

I'd probably stick to smaller props still, but I have no qualms with props of this size if the interest is there and people are willing to pay the higher costs.

 

[ed-209]

What part of Philly are you from? I'm in NJ across the river. --Ed

 

[19narvik40]

How about a corrected spine for the Airfix/MPC Space:1999 Eagle? One reissue and one soon to be released, both with the original incorrect spine. The newest release will feature resin parts for the module and booster motors. If you can pull it off, you'd make a lot of model builders happy.

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

What part of Philly are you from? I'm in NJ across the river. --Ed

I live about 20 minutes outside of Philly, in Media. Close enough to the city to enjoy all it's perks but far enough outside to avoid the inconveniences of living in the city, namely the business privilege tax ;-)

How about a corrected spine for the Airfix/MPC Space:1999 Eagle? One reissue and one soon to be released, both with the original incorrect spine. The newest release will feature resin parts for the module and booster motors. If you can pull it off, you'd make a lot of model builders happy.

That seems to be in the right size/price range. Can you share some reference material for what the corrected spine looks like in comparison to the incorrect one? I did a Google search but as I'm unfamiliar with the ship, I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

 

[19narvik40]

I don't have anything I can send you myself so I am including two pictures I found on Google.

This first one is of the kit;

This image came from Starshipmodeler

This picture is from the show;

This image came from Blackgate.com

You can see that the kit spine is wider at the top than the show spine. Other than that, they are the same length and width at the bottom.

I am also including a link to a Google page listing Eagle drawings/blueprints;
https://www.google.ca/search?q=spac...=gnmrVMjuMYz-yQSHgIGoAw&ved=0CBwQsAQ#imgdii=_

I do have a set of drawings, but I'll have to dig them out. What measurements do you need for your 3D model?

 

[YenChih Lin]

I've talked about with my buddy of realizing Misson Impossible 1988 foldable tranquilizer gun… maybe a working edition?

 

[ed-209]

I used to work in Media back in the 80's at The Granite Run Mall. I'm sure we'll meet one day.
In fact, I'll be setting up a James Bond display at Amazicon on April 17th perhaps we can meet each other ( and hopefully all other RPF members ) there.
See http://www.amazicon.net/
---Ed

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

I don't have anything I can send you myself so I am including two pictures I found on Google.
I do have a set of drawings, but I'll have to dig them out. What measurements do you need for your 3D model?

I would only need the measurements of the model version - the width and length of the spine, since the base is the correct size, and I could redesign the rest from there.

I've talked about with my buddy of realizing Misson Impossible 1988 foldable tranquilizer gun… maybe a working edition?

I don't suppose you have any reference material? I hit up google but all I could find was one screenshot of what I assume is the correct gun.

I used to work in Media back in the 80's at The Granite Run Mall. I'm sure we'll meet one day.
In fact, I'll be setting up a James Bond display at Amazicon on April 17th perhaps we can meet each other ( and hopefully all other RPF members ) there.
See http://www.amazicon.net/
---Ed

Right on. I've only lived in the area since 1998 and the State St. scene is drastically different. It's a ton of great food and drink now!

 

[YenChih Lin]

I'd have to reupload the screencap gallery…

 

[YenChih Lin]

 

[19narvik40]

I would only need the measurements of the model version - the width and length of the spine, since the base is the correct size, and I could redesign the rest from there.


I measured the spine from the kit and it came out to 20.6 cm long, 3.26 cm wide on the lower section. The main tubing is 2.7 mm wide and the coupling joints are 3.3 mm wide. The diagonal cross brace struts are 2 mm wide.

I don't know the width of the upper section of the spine yet. I'll have to print out a drawing and measure the angle and work out the length. I'm including some photos of the kit spine as reference. Please let me know if you need any further measurements beyond the upper section.

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

I measured the spine from the kit and it came out to 20.6 cm long, 3.26 cm wide on the lower section. The main tubing is 2.7 mm wide and the coupling joints are 3.3 mm wide. The diagonal cross brace struts are 2 mm wide.

I don't know the width of the upper section of the spine yet. I'll have to print out a drawing and measure the angle and work out the length. I'm including some photos of the kit spine as reference. Please let me know if you need any further measurements beyond the upper section.

That's fantastic, exactly what I need. I really just need photos of the correct spine. I could Google it myself but I don't want to grab an image of the wrong one - someone who knows better should do that. The rest of the measurements I can extrapolate from there, but if you want to get measurements of the accurate one - I suppose height and the angle of the sides/front/back would suffice - all the better! How many members on here do you suppose would be interested in this part? Would it be worth $15, $25, $40? I have no idea how much it would cost to print until I build it and upload it to Shapeways but given it's a frame and not a solid piece, it shouldn't be too high.

If you think enough people would be into it, I could create an interest thread and get the ball rolling - maybe even get the FS thread up at the same time as the McGann sonic screwdriver kits FS thread, then I could order them all at once.

 

[19narvik40]

Doc,

Taking a quick break from my archaeological dig looking for my blueprint drawings of the Eagle. On the question of who would be interested I am sure there will be some on this forum who would very much like to see one. I know Round 2 has reissued the Eagle in it's original form and are due to release a special edition with the science pod and booster engines. Anyone who has purchased this kit in the past would be interested I'm sure. The big deciding factor will be how it comes out from the 3D printer. From what I've seen, the finish would likely be too rough and the work involved to smooth it out would turn most folks away. How smooth a finish can your printer do?

As I see it, the question of price will probably be decided by two major factors, cost and finish. Costs are not usually under your control and not much can be done about them. I feel the biggest factor will be the finish. If it something that can be added to the kit with a minimum of fuss and work, so much the better. I see a lot of modellers buy photo-etch frets for their kits that are at least as much if not more than the original kit.

If it turns out nicely, modeling sites like Starshipmodeler, Cyberscale and CultmanTV would be your best bets to show of your work. Please keep in mind, these are only my personal opinions and my not reflect the real world (wife tells me that all the time).

Don

 

[19narvik40]

Doc,

I managed to excavate three sets of drawings. One from Roberto Baldissari, one from Starlog Magazine drawn by Geoffrey Mandel (1977) and the last one from StarCraft Productions drawn by L. Allen Everhart Jr. (1997). Baldissari's has an angle of 53 degrees, the Starlog is 49 degrees and the StarCraft one is at 48 degrees. I am going to Google images of the actual show models to try to get a better idea of which one of the three are correct.

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

Doc,

I managed to excavate three sets of drawings. One from Roberto Baldissari, one from Starlog Magazine drawn by Geoffrey Mandel (1977) and the last one from StarCraft Productions drawn by L. Allen Everhart Jr. (1997). Baldissari's has an angle of 53 degrees, the Starlog is 49 degrees and the StarCraft one is at 48 degrees. I am going to Google images of the actual show models to try to get a better idea of which one of the three are correct.

Right on, thanks for putting in the time!

To answer the question(s) from your previous post - the finish is indeed rough in comparison to the typical injection molded plastic found in model kits. In addition, visible stepping can occur on shallow angles in the print as a result of the printing process which involves layer by layer addition. The method I use is SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) which is build from a powder pase that it fused together. On a form like a frame, this could be difficult to sand or smooth by traditional means - but there are alternative methods for 3d printing.

One such method is to mix super glue and acetone and submerge the part in this mixture. Once the part is removed, the acetone will evaporate and the super glue will settle on the surface, filling in crevices and hardening. Though I've never used this method myself, many in the 3d print community swear by it and I've seen examples of this method result in smooth finishes that can be painted much like injected molded plastics kits. There is minor loss of detail but for the shape you're proposing, it wouldn't affect it too gravely.

If the community is keen on the finish factor, the pricing should be right - somewhere between $20 and $40 for the print if my instincts are on point. I only ask because the time put into modeling this would be considerable and doing so only to find that the price is too high or the finish undesirable serves no one.

 

[19narvik40]

I know of the acetone/superglue method. The trick with it is getting your timing just right so you don't loose all the detail or need to redo it because it came out too soon. I am going to try out a Smooth-On product, XTC-3D High Performance 3D Coating which is an epoxy based paint that fills in the crevices and dries to a smooth, paintable finish. I'll let you know how it turns out.

On the question of how many folks would want it and for how much might need to be answered by polling the members of this forum and others. On the Facebook page for Space:1999 Merchandise, several members have bemoaned the fact that the spine is incorrect. I wish I could promise you a home run on this, but without seeing a finished product modeller are a skittish bunch. This may be why no one has produced one yet. If I had the programs and the skills to use them, there'd be no stopping me.

 

[Doctor Octoroc]

I know of the acetone/superglue method. The trick with it is getting your timing just right so you don't loose all the detail or need to redo it because it came out too soon. I am going to try out a Smooth-On product, XTC-3D High Performance 3D Coating which is an epoxy based paint that fills in the crevices and dries to a smooth, paintable finish. I'll let you know how it turns out.

On the question of how many folks would want it and for how much might need to be answered by polling the members of this forum and others. On the Facebook page for Space:1999 Merchandise, several members have bemoaned the fact that the spine is incorrect. I wish I could promise you a home run on this, but without seeing a finished product modeller are a skittish bunch. This may be why no one has produced one yet. If I had the programs and the skills to use them, there'd be no stopping me.

Fair enough. It sounds like there would be some good interest if I had something to show. This one is high on the list of models I'll create next time I can't sleep late at night haha.