Your preferred methods of prop making?

CB2001

Master Member
I've got some questions I'd like to ask you guys, primarily because I'm curious. Now, I know that for some projects, a few of you do the vacuum forming method and some of you guys do mold making and make resin copies. And I know a lot are using the Pepakura with resin to create props and and some have used pink styrofoam with Bondo to create props and helmets. And, yes, I know that a majority of prop constructing (in real life or replica form) is taking something that already exists and modifying it.

So, I've got a few questions, and I'm asking because I'm interested in any methods that involve scratch building props.

So, what is your preferred method?
What's your second preferred method?
What was the worse method for you when you tried it? Would you try it again in order to see if the outcome was potentially better than the first time?
How many methods for creating prop replicas have you tried?
Out of all the replicas you've made with your preferred methods, how well has that item held up? And how long?
 
Start with book titled something like: "Model design and Blueprinting."

This is the best book I have come across for scratch building anythng. Long before you get to the modeling stage, you will do WELL to go through the Blueprint stage. Many beginners don't do this.

The rest is just materials. You can use wood, plastic, or metal (and there are several types of each) to build a prop, but it takes a littel experience to know what, when and how. Practice, practice, practice.

Seriously, buy the book. It is available on Amazon, and I am pretty sure it was written by a board member
 
LOL, Clonesix, I'm asking a question about what preferred method everyone here uses for making their stuff, in general. I'm not asking about how to scratch build. But thanks for the heads up on the book, Clonesix.
 
i used to build everything by making blueprints in coreldraw and print them out to be used as templates for styrene. That's how i started: Styrene sheets, files, sandpaper and an exacto knife

Then came lasercutting and recently i have done more and more props as 3D models to have them cnc-ed.

Other skills i picked up during the last 10 years: Molding, casting, milling, elektro-etching, nickleplating amongst others, oh and one of the most important skills in this hobby.....FIRST AID :lol
 
I prefer whatever method is best for the criteria of project I'm working on. There's never one "best" method for everything.

In general I prefer styrene over wood, real parts over resin copies and lucky finds over inflated collector prices. :)
 
When I began prop building about 30 years ago (or longer) I had used wood. But as I got older I began using cardboard, corrugated and cardstock, to build with. Primarily because I could get the stuff anywhere and it works as well as wood, but softer.

To date I have built a TOS Phaser rifle, Rocketeer helmet and rocketpack, Commando Cody rocket pack, my own creation of a Buck Rogers rocket pack (or Gravity Belt), the eye probe from the original War of the Worlds, a number of rayguns including Captain Proton's Raygun and Tommy Ray Gun (my creation), and some other items that were needed to dress up my costumes at various conventions over the years.
 
And did you use card for any of those? i curious as i've been toying with making a ST: Voyager PADD and one guy suggested using thick card. But my thought is..Wont it fray at the edges?

Glad you started this thread. I'm just starting out, making resin kits and learning the wise ways of..Sand, primer, clean, sand, primer, clean :lol
A skill i learned from this very board. Which is a lot smarter then, thinking it'll all work out with one coat of paint from a spray can ;-) Which needles to say, didn't work out so well..lol


When I began prop building about 30 years ago (or longer) I had used wood. But as I got older I began using cardboard, corrugated and cardstock, to build with. Primarily because I could get the stuff anywhere and it works as well as wood, but softer.

To date I have built a TOS Phaser rifle, Rocketeer helmet and rocketpack, Commando Cody rocket pack, my own creation of a Buck Rogers rocket pack (or Gravity Belt), the eye probe from the original War of the Worlds, a number of rayguns including Captain Proton's Raygun and Tommy Ray Gun (my creation), and some other items that were needed to dress up my costumes at various conventions over the years.
 
Glad you started this thread. I'm just starting out, making resin kits and learning the wise ways of..Sand, primer, clean, sand, primer, clean :lol

You're welcome. I started this thread as a way to find out what methods that a lot of the users use, get their opinions on what works and what doesn't, and potentially share some tips with everyone else about it. :)
 
like someone else said... i use whatever makes sense based on the project i'm working on.

take a clone suit.

the helmet is too detailed to vac form well, so i did a silicone mold / resin slush casting for that.

the body armor is relatively low detail, and needs to be light and durable. so vac form it is.

as for medium, that also depends. if i'm making a silicone mold, i can make the original out of nearly anything. plaster, sheets of plastic, foam, bondo, water putty... you name it, as long as it's not latex or sulphur based.

if i'm planning to vacuum form directly over it, i use more durable stuff... mdf, bondo, apoxie sculpt.

you can make vac form plugs out of just about anything too, but then you need to make a mold of your sculpture and cast a durable copy out of something like ultracal 30.
 
Props can be made out of anything, as long as it's going to do what the shot calls for it to do - it's durable and won't break if the actor goes nuts with it - and it'lll hold up to repeated use if it's in more than one scene. It also has to look really good on camera from all the angles it'll be seen from, and has to ”read“ as what it is.

I've made a lot of hero props out of resin - which is exactly what a lot of prop replicas are made of - and using the same techniques that the replica folks use, although not as expertly as some of them! In fact, I've seen plenty of replica props that looked a LOT better than the one that was in the film or TV show. I mean, really WAY better. haha.

As an example - Here's how I made one of the most obscure and unknown props in film history (yes, that's an exaggeration, but it's how I felt at the time. haha). There's a scene in the first HELLBOY where he's in the cemetery with what appears to be an ancient compass that seems to be playing music-box music. He's saying, ”Find me a talker....“ And after all the time I put into it, you can barely see it in the final edit!! I'll bet nobody reading this can even remember that there was a prop in that part of the scene.

The idea for that prop (which we called The Corpsefinder) when through a few different iterations before that one was ultimately used. There's a pic in the ”Art of Hellboy“ book showing a totally different ”amulet“ that was intended for that scene, but that one was used to actually revive the corpse later (and is seen very clearly, I might add) - so the director asked for something that looked more like a really ancient magic compass/music box/device. A mechanical thing that's maybe 5,000 years old was how I remember the concept. The propmaster is a good pal of mine, and I was therefore trusted to design and make this thing, plus I've done a bunch of stuff like this - so I started by digging into a lot of reference. Archaeological, mechanical, Egyptian, Chinese, etc... One piece of reference/inspiration I photographed in Disneyland waiting in line for the Indiana Jones ride. Some obscure sculptural detail near the base of one of the artifacts - inspiration can come from anywhere. I drew up a few sketches until someone said, ”COOL! I LOVE IT!!“ Which is nice to hear occasionally.

The next step was to make a paper mock-up from scale blueprints I drew in Illustrator to see how it fit in someone's hand, and how it would open, etc... Basically figuring out if there were any problems inherent in the basic shape, size or functionality of it. I wanted it to be able to open, and for Hellboy to be able to make tweaky adjustments on some type of inner ”finder“ mechanism. Very simple stuff, but I wanted it to be awesome. At this time, the production was already over in Prague, and I was emailing progress photos to the folks over there, doing my best to keep them updated.

Once I had it all fine-tuned, I added more design details in Illustrator and printed out the patterns to scale. Then I got the Super Sculpey out and started sculpting it. It was a multi-sided shape, so I made one side in Sculpey, molded it and cast up enough to build the shell, then I made a mold of that. It was assembled from about 7 pieces. The base, the lid, and the inner dial which was made from a rotating ring with some metal parts, and a central domed lens that I cast in clear resin with some amber dye mixed with some grunge to make it look ancient. I epoxied the hinges on it, and glued the whole thing together really solidly because I had to ship it (actually about 6 identical duplicates) to Prague where it was shot on a location that was below zero and either drizzly, rainy or flooding. Around that time I became thrilled that I hadn't scored a trip to the location and was nice and warm in my sunny Los Angeles workshop.

It turned out pretty cool, but for some reason it was one of those props that just didn't get much screen time. Hopefully not because it looked stupid. haha.

I heard a rumor that the director kept one, and gave another one of them to Harry Knowles, the Ain't It Cool News guy.
 
And did you use card for any of those? i curious as i've been toying with making a ST: Voyager PADD and one guy suggested using thick card. But my thought is..Wont it fray at the edges?

Glad you started this thread. I'm just starting out, making resin kits and learning the wise ways of..Sand, primer, clean, sand, primer, clean :lol
A skill i learned from this very board. Which is a lot smarter then, thinking it'll all work out with one coat of paint from a spray can ;-) Which needles to say, didn't work out so well..lol

The items I had listed are all made of cardboard.

The card would fray if not sealed before painting. After I have finished building a model, I had made a mixure of white glue and water and painted the model with it a coat of the mixure at a time. Don't soak your model with it. It is, after all, paper. The idea is the thinned glue will be absorbed into the fibers with the water, creating a tough shell once it dries. I would sand the model smooth and begin spraypainting it with urethane to add an extra tough skin and this has made people think the model is made of resin instead of cardstock.

There is a product that does the job nicely, but not as friendy to the human body and is more expensive than white glue. I've recently been using Minwax Wood Hardener instead of the glue and water on some projects, but will still use the old method.
 
I typically use a combination of hand fabricated parts and found objects... With a bit of cussin' and fussin' thrown in for good measure.
 
Most of my stuff is going to be for costumes or my own use so i'll go for as accurate as i can using what resources i can. One gun i'm making there is like no detailed pics as its from a cartoon so i may take liberties because its bland but using stuff i find around the house would really help. Especially as i have only basic tools at the moment.
 
LOL, Clonesix, I'm asking a question about what preferred method everyone here uses for making their stuff, in general. I'm not asking about how to scratch build. But thanks for the heads up on the book, Clonesix.

Starting with a good blueprint is my prefered method, so I posted that. It was also an opportune time to pass along a bit a reading pleasure.

That is for the build. If it is a one-off, then its done. Usually, there is molding and casting involved for more than one. Molding and casting is a whole can-o-worms unto itself.
 
Have you documented any of your work? I'm rather tempted to have a go at making some PADDS out of card. Thanks for the insight on the glue, its really encouraging.


The items I had listed are all made of cardboard.

The card would fray if not sealed before painting. After I have finished building a model, I had made a mixure of white glue and water and painted the model with it a coat of the mixure at a time. Don't soak your model with it. It is, after all, paper. The idea is the thinned glue will be absorbed into the fibers with the water, creating a tough shell once it dries. I would sand the model smooth and begin spraypainting it with urethane to add an extra tough skin and this has made people think the model is made of resin instead of cardstock.

There is a product that does the job nicely, but not as friendy to the human body and is more expensive than white glue. I've recently been using Minwax Wood Hardener instead of the glue and water on some projects, but will still use the old method.
 
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