Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 1/12

Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

The ship is a very light battleship grey. The CR replica was painted with more of a warm "tan" added to the grey. They color-matched a part taken off the original miniature to get that color. But, this takes into account more than 30 years of aging. I think something like Tamiya grey primer is a better match to what was there back in the day. That is what I am planning to use for my own model.

For the red, definitely choose more of a dark "brick" color. If it's too bright, it won't look like a massive spaceship but rather like a toy. They used permanent marker on the original. It was a very dark red.

Regarding parts, do you mean a guide or an actual source of detail parts? Resin Illuminati and StudioScaleModelers.com have parts maps online. As for a source of actual parts you can buy, CR was the only outfit that molded many of the original parts and offered them for sale. While they aren't cheap, the only other way is to buy them kit-by-kit. That actually costs a LOT more than getting a package deal.
 
Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

The ship is a very light battleship grey. The CR replica was painted with more of a warm "tan" added to the grey. They color-matched a part taken off the original miniature to get that color. But, this takes into account more than 30 years of aging. I think something like Tamiya grey primer is a better match to what was there back in the day. That is what I am planning to use for my own model.

For the red, definitely choose more of a dark "brick" color. If it's too bright, it won't look like a massive spaceship but rather like a toy. They used permanent marker on the original. It was a very dark red.

Regarding parts, do you mean a guide or an actual source of detail parts? Resin Illuminati and StudioScaleModelers.com have parts maps online. As for a source of actual parts you can buy, CR was the only outfit that molded many of the original parts and offered them for sale. While they aren't cheap, the only other way is to buy them kit-by-kit. That actually costs a LOT more than getting a package deal.

Thank you for the quick answers!

I guess my kit list request was more for academic interest as building a full scale kit is way out of my price range, not to mention talent. Somehow I missed or had forgotten the maps were there on RI.

Thanks again.
 
Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

In doing research for the CR Atlantia, i looked through all the old Appogee pics, and the restoration pics. My background as an artist, has always been primarily as a painter. What i noticed in the pics, and as parts became dislodged, was the various colors of primer used as under painting, from dark grey to that car-primer brown color or even red in some photos. Another consideration was to add a subtle wash over the model after applying the color, then adding more color. We went this route as to add more detail and a battle-worn "grungy-ness" to the model. Atlantia was a little darker washed then our Galactica a year later. Seeing the final results side by side, as recently as last month, still is impressively cool. Painting with just grey, might in the purest form be accurate, but doesn't photograph quite as well IMO.We also went the extra mile and did all the tiny details in pencil seen on the landing bay caps, bridge area. It was really fun to make it our own.
 
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Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

Several Apogee / Hartland guys have related tales of coming in in the morning and finding the odd part or two lying on floor from where the Galactic a was bumped the previous day. Not really thinking about us geeks all these years later, they just picked up the part and stuck it "somewhere".

Gene
 
Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

The current owner describes it as "bleeding" because parts continue falling off the model even today.

The CR Atlantia looked really good to me, Jason. I liked the added weathering. Some folks did not -- I guess they are "purists." But, I thought the CR Galactica was too tan. It's just my opinion of course. For me, I am less concerned about how it photographs than how it looks in person. When I first saw Jim Creveling's replica almost exactly 15 years ago, he'd used a dark grey primer and then sprayed light battleship grey on top of that. This left remnants of the darker color in the recesses of the parts. To my eye, it looked fantastic.

When it comes to painting, each artist will have their own tastes and preferences. For my models, I usually want a realistic and "scale" appearance. If you get too dark with pencil lines, for example, that can spoil the scale effect IMO. Toning them down using the base color can help quite a bit. I prefer more subtle effects in general.

For me, the one thing that defeats the illusion most of all is when I see stark, overly bright, or too highly contrasted color schemes. If the model ship were real, you would be looking at it from a good distance away. Even though there is no atmosphere in space, there is here on this planet and people expect big objects viewed from far away to appear somewhat "washed out" due to atmospheric haze. It is simply how we are used to seeing things. For me, toning down the colors (and the contrasts) helps achieve this illusion to make the model look like a huge object.

Just my opinion for whatever it's worth. Like I said, everyone will have their own feelings on the matter. The great thing about being an artist is you get to choose what you want to do with your own project. :)
 
Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

Now for an update:

Richard was here last week and we worked to button up the remaining structural details. The landing bay front end caps are done! They turned out very nice, but that was quite a project. . .

We also built and fitted the side mount covers on the sides of the landing bays. All that remains is to glue them in. This means we have completed the structure and we are now down to touch-up work.

I don't have very many pics because, as soon as we'd completed all this, we had to tear down the ship again for me to get back to work on the wiring. I am attaching what I can.

I'm still working to complete the complex engine compartment wiring so Richard can lock down the waist structure. I've also been building all the circuit boards that go inside the ship. Soon I will start work on the control box. Right now, the "core" of the ship is upside down on the bench so we can work on the umbilical.

The best approach IMO is to have the wires come out of the model and then run straight to the control box. But, this would mean a 10-foot cord would be sticking out the bottom. The client wants to film this model and he would never be able to hide that. In order to shoot from below, the umbilical must be disconnected just underneath the ship.

This will make it a bit tricky to get the model on and off its stand. But, that is the trade-off for being able to film it from every angle.
 

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Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

Great painting explanation Charles. Looking forward to seeing more peoples final build photos out there in the future!
 
Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

Materials alone run around $15K (and rising, thanks to inflation and a sinking American dollar). Then, it's easily a year's worth of labor. Yes, that is working full time for about one year. I have yet to see anyone complete it in less time, except for CR and they had a crew working on theirs. So, you can imagine this is a big-ticket item if you need to hire someone to build it for you.
 
Re: Yet another studio-scale BATTLESTAR UPDATE 8/24

I know it has been a while since the last update. Still, work has continued. In fact, the model is about to be shipped to its owner. Once we have it crated, I'll organize the pics that have been taken over the last few months and post a new update.
 
The structure of the battlestar replica, as well as all the lighting, has been completed. The ship is on its way to the client as we speak.

Because the client wants to film this model, te electrical design on this project was more challenging than usual. It had to be treated as if it were a *real* filming miniature. That meant eliminating all pulse-width modulation (PWM) from the circuitry. PWM creates a "flicker" effect. While it might not be noticeable to the eye, it certainly shows up quite well on camera.

The other major requirement for filming was creating lighting that could be fully dimmed from "off" to maximum brightness. In order to accomplish this, I chose a linear control strategy. This was more complex and difficult than what I created for our last major project, the 'C' movie miniature.

It is much easier to use ordinary PWM dimmers to control the brightness of LEDs. Here, I had to design my own power supplies that could provide a variable voltage without any pulsing. All this had to be controllable using small potentiometers that could be installed in a control panel.

As with the last project, I opted to build a completely custom control box that featured illuminated controls. There are seven separate knobs for dimming and seven switches for "ON/OFF" control, plus a main power switch and panel dimming control.

With all this figured out, we still had yet another challenge to overcome. The client wants to be able to film the model from below. Because it was designed for display rather than filming, this miniature has only one mounting point -- beneath the ship. To solve this challenge, I added an auxiliary power point inside the main body on the top side of the model. It is hidden underneath the main body lid. To film the ship from below, the client can remove the access lids on the top of the ship, flip the entire model upside down, and power it from the auxiliary connector.

The primary power connector is designed to be hidden inside the lower mounting point. It tucks neatly inside the pipe, helping to keep it out of the way. All the client has to do is make a cover plate to hide the main mount on the bottom of the ship during filming.

Once everything was done, my good friend and faithful assistant Richard Lindstrom built an enormous crate to protect the model during shipping. It is quite strong and should help ensure the model reaches its destination unharmed.

Once again, I must give my thanks to Richard for all his hard work on this project. It has certainly been a learning experience for both of us. For one thing, I did not realize just how much work it would be to assemble all the different modules *after* they had already been built. I already knew how much time and effort was involved in building the different sections of the ship. That alone can take months. Putting it all together, however, is like taking on a whole new project.

This ship was very challenging and time consuming to build. Still, we are both very proud of the finished product. I'm sure the client will feel like a kid on Christmas morning when he opens the crate!

Before we shipped it out, we managed to capture some video of the lighting effects being tested. We also demonstrated how the modular design works:

 

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