WWII 2.5 IN BAZOOKA

[Rob1019]

I'm building a WWII 2.5in Bazooka to scale 1:1 out of metal. I want to make it appear used and weathered and realistic.

Rob

 

[Riceball]

Is this a question as to how to make it look realistic and weathered? If so, I'd start by looking at as many pictures of the real thing that you can find for reference, I'd also go to Forgotten Weapons on YouTube, I think that he's reviewed a real WWII 2.5" bazooka on his channel before. If not him, then I'd check out out the channels of WWII reenactors who might have a real decommissioned one shown in one of their videos. This will not only give more reference, particularly for size and scale, it would also be very useful as a weathering guide.

 

[PropsToHistory]

Which variant? The M1,M1A1, M9 or M9A1?

These guys sell an M1A1 replica that I've seen in person. It's quite nice.

U.S. WWII M1A1 Bazooka Anti-Tank Rocket Launcher - Inert

New Made Item: Display Only, this launcher is totally inert and cannot be converted to an explosive device. It is in full compliance with guidelines provide by the BATF. Not Available for Export. An IMA exclusive item, you won't find this anywhere else in the USA! Full size, 1:1 scale, steel...

www.ima-usa.com

 

[Rob1019]

Is this a question as to how to make it look realistic and weathered? If so, I'd start by looking at as many pictures of the real thing that you can find for reference, I'd also go to Forgotten Weapons on YouTube, I think that he's reviewed a real WWII 2.5" bazooka on his channel before. If not him, then I'd check out out the channels of WWII reenactors who might have a real decommissioned one shown in one of their videos. This will not only give more reference, particularly for size and scale, it would also be very useful as a weathering guide.

 

[Rob1019]

I'll check those out. I'm also looking for explanations on actually how to do it. You could say the technical or artistic side. I have the bazooka which I am building 1:1 off of plans and pics. It's how to make it weathered.

Thanks!!

 

[Riceball]

I know of two methods for revealing the bare metal underneath the paint.

One is to simulate chipping and you do that by laying torn pieces of tape (masking or painter's) or use something like mustard to cover all of the areas that you want exposed. You'd then paint over like normal and remove the coverings to reveal the bare metal underneath.

To simulate where the paint has rubbed off through continuous use I like to use 0000 steel wool sand and rub it over the areas where you want bare metal after it's been painted, areas that handled a lot. The trick is to go at it like sandpaper but not so hard, after a while the paint will start to show but the transition between paint to bare metal won't be as sharp as the masking method so it looks more like it's been worn off as opposed to chipped off.

 

[Rob1019]

I know of two methods for revealing the bare metal underneath the paint.

One is to simulate chipping and you do that by laying torn pieces of tape (masking or painter's) or use something like mustard to cover all of the areas that you want exposed. You'd then paint over like normal and remove the coverings to reveal the bare metal underneath.

To simulate where the paint has rubbed off through continuous use I like to use 0000 steel wool sand and rub it over the areas where you want bare metal after it's been painted, areas that handled a lot. The trick is to go at it like sandpaper but not so hard, after a while the paint will start to show but the transition between paint to bare metal won't be as sharp as the masking method so it looks more like it's been worn off as opposed to chipped off.

 

[Rob1019]

That is the kind of help I am looking for!

Do u know any tricks to weather and age wood?

Thanks Rob

 

[Riceball]

I don't know anything about aging wood outside of just letting it sit outside in the sun. I'd go to YouTube and do a search for weathering wood and see what comes up, there's bound to be at least a few tutorials.

 

[TazMan2000]

Weathering wood is dependent on the type, but generally it turns grey through dirt, wear and weather. But you may not want it looking like an old fence board. The sun tends to bleach the stain from the wood, but you have to think about wear and tear of the grips. Bazookas were generally taken care of and were usually transported in a case. But, even though they still received there share of damage from being dragged through the mud and banged around in order to get into a position to fire the weapon without being seen by the enemy. Scratches and dents would be common. The ends of the grain would be darker since dirt and oil from hands would stain the would darker, while the sides would probably be rough with most of the varnish worn away, leaving a scarred and flat texture. If there are any brass pins holding the grips in place, they would most likely be black around the pins. Brass oxidizes black, blue or green, but constant use would rub off the oxidation and just leave the wood stained. Use a white paint thinned down to the transparency of 50/50 milk and water mixed together and use a tissue to wipe it I the middle of the wood to gauge the effect.

Most bazookas you see now are restored, so this is not a good example of what you would see in the field around WWII.

TazMan2000