belleauwood
Well-Known Member
This is the Salzo Studio Scale BSG Shuttle, a quick review and the start of the build. Yes, I was involved in MINOR ways with this beauty, but the mastering was mostly Sean Corsini’s beautiful work in the computer and translating that to a physical build and his wicked part ID skills, and Mike Salzo’s amazing molding and casting skills. All in all, a kick a ss kit.
I couldn’t find an angle off when I checked every photo out there (except for the wonky stuff that was in the original) vs the mock up and plans Sean C did, and now holding this beauty in my hands in physical form I STILL can’t find an angle or facet off, again with the exception of the ones that were jacked on the original that this had “corrected” to make it symmetrical.
First impression when I got mine from Mike was that frak this thing is LIGHT. I swear, the box was so light I thought it was something, anything but the shuttle. All that hollow casting pays off huge.
Next impression . . . LORDS OF KOBOL, THIS IS THE SHUTTLE I’VE PRAYED FOR!
The entire album at photo bucket is under “Salzo Gal 356” in my photo bucket account. This is where the build will be progressing from, and for now has a ton of shots if the kit in the raw.
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w...o%20GAL%20356/
These are big pics, and worth zooming on. I took the time to make some comments on the individual pics, and where comparing things, I note what is what.
Note that the modified SMT album is “GAL 356”.
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w...356%20Shuttle/
You might want to check these out for ref, as my SMT is anything but original at this point and that folder shows what was done along the way (mostly).
Now, I’m not taking these pics to “bash” the SMT, just show everyone how different (and yet somewhat similar in basic size and some shapes) the two are. They have different “audiences”, one was for the masses, fudged detail is “ok” as long as it looks cool crowd, one is for the die-hard kippy yi yeahy motherfrakker balls on studio accurate crowd. This one is the second one in case you didn’t have a clue. LOL
Here is the "shopping list" for the pipe armature, as shown in Sean C's post on the RI in the original thread, in US Measures not metric. Note that you have a choice of the cheaper "black" or "soft iron" type (Gas use) and the more expensive "galvanized" type fittings, both are interchangeable but I recommend saving the coin and going with the black pipe. Realistically, if your model is exposed enough to have the armature rust, I think you've got bigger issues. All it takes is some brake fluid cleaner and paint once you get everything together to make it purty.
2 x 3/8 inch "T"
5 x 3/8 inch couplings
1 x 3/8 inch "close" nipple
3 x 3/8 inch "1.5 inch" nipple
1 x 3/8 inch 4 1/2 inch pipe (called nipple sometimes too)
1 x 3/8 inch 6 inch pipe (called nipple sometimes too)
Now that I've put that out there, I find that my camera is dead and I need to go get batteries before I can take some pics to show you everything. Figures. LOL
Additionally, you will need a 3/8 inch floor flange and an appropriate height 3/8 pipe along with a board and some screws to mount that to for your base.
Note that everything is 3/8, I had a small issue finding a local store with a large stock of black 3/8 fittings, but Lowes came through. Ace carries em and Home Despot it seems like its hit or miss based on the area you live in, my Home Despot didn't have much 3/8. All told, expect to spend about $30-35, the flange is the most expensive part at around $5.
I have build this armature, and confirmed that it fits beautifully with the kit. Note that mine is SLIGHTLY different from Seans original, but damn close. I don't like grinding stuff, so I made it work a little differently but it still fits and gets the job done. I'm happy mostly with it, but damn if me being me I cannot leave well enough alone. I decided that I wanted to be able to go with a port and starboard mount point, for possible future wall display, and with the armature as it stands right now, you have to choose one or the other, you do not get both. FRAK that, that is UNACCEPTABLE to me LOL! SO, I figured out a way to make both sides work. All you need is a 3/8 inch cross . . . and while you're digging for one locally, let me tell you, if you manage to find one, you're doing better than I did. 1/2 inch seems to be the smallest size carried commonly. I finally broke down and ordered some online, and should have them in the next week. Basically, I will replace both "T"'s with them, for a couple of reasons. Reason one, I get to go both port and starboard mounts this way. I will have to add another 3/8 inch "1.5 inch" nipple and coupler, but well worth it to me. Reason 2, replacing the bottom T gives me just that, a top and bottom mount point.
Now, on to some thoughts I've pondered on the armature.
First, after cleaning and before painting, I will be going through and epoxying all the pipes in place after dropping some super thin CA on the threads. And by epoxying all the pipes fittings in place, I mean each individual fitting on the metal armature to each other, and later the entire thing directly to the resin "armature" plate. Why? So I know that the fitting shouldn't come undone inside the model once its sealed when say you go to remove a support pipe and its locked in there with rust or friction . . . that'd be a bad dream, and a few minutes work is cheap insurance against that.
Second, knowing resin like I do, and being the worry wart I am when it comes to this kind of stuff, I have some extra plans on the internal support. I guess I like to hit the so called "Museum standard", 100 years minimum without serious degradation. In other words, I like to know that whatever I build will still be around to be enjoyed LONG after I'm gone, barring a disaster of some kind. Mike did an AMAZING job casting this beast, and Sean C did an equally exceptional job on the master. That being said, IF I had to move tomorrow and wound up living in say Arizona and my AC failed in the summer time . . . would I be weeping and gnashing teeth and pulling hair out when I came home to find a shuttle that looked frakked over by cylons? Right now, on the base model, maybe. The resin is wonderfully thin and light, and Seans engineered armature is great, but what about those flat panels under gravity and heat and time? That's a question mark, and so, I have a plan . . . And its NOT foaming the hull like I did on the SMT. That crap to be useful as a support is HEAVY, stinky and MESSY, and too much with nowhere to expand could equal a warped hull.
The plan is simple, CA some cut coathanger wire into each "facet" joint on the inside. After that, grab some fiberglass mat, and do a VERY thin coat of fiberglass on the inside everywhere the armature "plate" doesn't need to sit. Take some of that mat and more coathanger wire and beef up "Lightening hole" areas of the resin "plate" armature, and adding a bit more fiberglass resin on top of that in the non-critical dimension areas. Note that the fiberglass will butt up against and over somewhat the "plates" the kit includes to support the pipe armature against the hull. ALL that together should mean that the beast will still be relatively light, and very strong and resilient to time, heat and gravity. Worth the investment I think long term.
That's enough for the first post in this build thread, from here, I'll get on hopefully in the next week discussing lighting/power (think of that before you finalize your armature), getting some pics up of the base armature and the "modified" one I'm using once my parts come in, and basically get this beast a rolling.
Ryan
I couldn’t find an angle off when I checked every photo out there (except for the wonky stuff that was in the original) vs the mock up and plans Sean C did, and now holding this beauty in my hands in physical form I STILL can’t find an angle or facet off, again with the exception of the ones that were jacked on the original that this had “corrected” to make it symmetrical.
First impression when I got mine from Mike was that frak this thing is LIGHT. I swear, the box was so light I thought it was something, anything but the shuttle. All that hollow casting pays off huge.
Next impression . . . LORDS OF KOBOL, THIS IS THE SHUTTLE I’VE PRAYED FOR!
The entire album at photo bucket is under “Salzo Gal 356” in my photo bucket account. This is where the build will be progressing from, and for now has a ton of shots if the kit in the raw.
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w...o%20GAL%20356/
These are big pics, and worth zooming on. I took the time to make some comments on the individual pics, and where comparing things, I note what is what.
Note that the modified SMT album is “GAL 356”.
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w...356%20Shuttle/
You might want to check these out for ref, as my SMT is anything but original at this point and that folder shows what was done along the way (mostly).
Now, I’m not taking these pics to “bash” the SMT, just show everyone how different (and yet somewhat similar in basic size and some shapes) the two are. They have different “audiences”, one was for the masses, fudged detail is “ok” as long as it looks cool crowd, one is for the die-hard kippy yi yeahy motherfrakker balls on studio accurate crowd. This one is the second one in case you didn’t have a clue. LOL
Here is the "shopping list" for the pipe armature, as shown in Sean C's post on the RI in the original thread, in US Measures not metric. Note that you have a choice of the cheaper "black" or "soft iron" type (Gas use) and the more expensive "galvanized" type fittings, both are interchangeable but I recommend saving the coin and going with the black pipe. Realistically, if your model is exposed enough to have the armature rust, I think you've got bigger issues. All it takes is some brake fluid cleaner and paint once you get everything together to make it purty.
2 x 3/8 inch "T"
5 x 3/8 inch couplings
1 x 3/8 inch "close" nipple
3 x 3/8 inch "1.5 inch" nipple
1 x 3/8 inch 4 1/2 inch pipe (called nipple sometimes too)
1 x 3/8 inch 6 inch pipe (called nipple sometimes too)
Now that I've put that out there, I find that my camera is dead and I need to go get batteries before I can take some pics to show you everything. Figures. LOL
Additionally, you will need a 3/8 inch floor flange and an appropriate height 3/8 pipe along with a board and some screws to mount that to for your base.
Note that everything is 3/8, I had a small issue finding a local store with a large stock of black 3/8 fittings, but Lowes came through. Ace carries em and Home Despot it seems like its hit or miss based on the area you live in, my Home Despot didn't have much 3/8. All told, expect to spend about $30-35, the flange is the most expensive part at around $5.
I have build this armature, and confirmed that it fits beautifully with the kit. Note that mine is SLIGHTLY different from Seans original, but damn close. I don't like grinding stuff, so I made it work a little differently but it still fits and gets the job done. I'm happy mostly with it, but damn if me being me I cannot leave well enough alone. I decided that I wanted to be able to go with a port and starboard mount point, for possible future wall display, and with the armature as it stands right now, you have to choose one or the other, you do not get both. FRAK that, that is UNACCEPTABLE to me LOL! SO, I figured out a way to make both sides work. All you need is a 3/8 inch cross . . . and while you're digging for one locally, let me tell you, if you manage to find one, you're doing better than I did. 1/2 inch seems to be the smallest size carried commonly. I finally broke down and ordered some online, and should have them in the next week. Basically, I will replace both "T"'s with them, for a couple of reasons. Reason one, I get to go both port and starboard mounts this way. I will have to add another 3/8 inch "1.5 inch" nipple and coupler, but well worth it to me. Reason 2, replacing the bottom T gives me just that, a top and bottom mount point.
Now, on to some thoughts I've pondered on the armature.
First, after cleaning and before painting, I will be going through and epoxying all the pipes in place after dropping some super thin CA on the threads. And by epoxying all the pipes fittings in place, I mean each individual fitting on the metal armature to each other, and later the entire thing directly to the resin "armature" plate. Why? So I know that the fitting shouldn't come undone inside the model once its sealed when say you go to remove a support pipe and its locked in there with rust or friction . . . that'd be a bad dream, and a few minutes work is cheap insurance against that.
Second, knowing resin like I do, and being the worry wart I am when it comes to this kind of stuff, I have some extra plans on the internal support. I guess I like to hit the so called "Museum standard", 100 years minimum without serious degradation. In other words, I like to know that whatever I build will still be around to be enjoyed LONG after I'm gone, barring a disaster of some kind. Mike did an AMAZING job casting this beast, and Sean C did an equally exceptional job on the master. That being said, IF I had to move tomorrow and wound up living in say Arizona and my AC failed in the summer time . . . would I be weeping and gnashing teeth and pulling hair out when I came home to find a shuttle that looked frakked over by cylons? Right now, on the base model, maybe. The resin is wonderfully thin and light, and Seans engineered armature is great, but what about those flat panels under gravity and heat and time? That's a question mark, and so, I have a plan . . . And its NOT foaming the hull like I did on the SMT. That crap to be useful as a support is HEAVY, stinky and MESSY, and too much with nowhere to expand could equal a warped hull.
The plan is simple, CA some cut coathanger wire into each "facet" joint on the inside. After that, grab some fiberglass mat, and do a VERY thin coat of fiberglass on the inside everywhere the armature "plate" doesn't need to sit. Take some of that mat and more coathanger wire and beef up "Lightening hole" areas of the resin "plate" armature, and adding a bit more fiberglass resin on top of that in the non-critical dimension areas. Note that the fiberglass will butt up against and over somewhat the "plates" the kit includes to support the pipe armature against the hull. ALL that together should mean that the beast will still be relatively light, and very strong and resilient to time, heat and gravity. Worth the investment I think long term.
That's enough for the first post in this build thread, from here, I'll get on hopefully in the next week discussing lighting/power (think of that before you finalize your armature), getting some pics up of the base armature and the "modified" one I'm using once my parts come in, and basically get this beast a rolling.
Ryan
