Where can I find a machinist for a lightsaber commission?

[ARKM]

Are sabersmiths, as you call them, more interested in the written measurements, or in the visually marked details? Because if a sabersmith relies more on the visually marked details, then everything is already provided with a high degree of accuracy in this drawing: http://i.imgur.com/asR4pMI.png
and an even higher degree of accuracy in this over-sized view: http://i.imgur.com/6b9qgJh.png

That I'm not sure of. It depends on the smith. As for myself, I prefer written measurements on the blueprint similar to this... http://www.therpf.com/gallery/data/670/medium/LUKE_HERO1_EP6.jpg or this http://www.geocities.ws/mhtaylor67/images/cad/lukerotj.gif but I'm used to just getting a drawing. IMHO, your drawing is just fine for most smiths. They would print it to the scale you want (in this case, 10" long) and then use a ruler to determine all the measurements. Easy peasy.

As for how to transfer the marks to aluminum, Once the blueprint it to scale, I either use a metal ruler like this one... http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/...bile-Ruler-Metric-scale-Level-Woodworking.jpg or a vinyl tape measure used in making clothes, like this one... http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/1820276639/3m_body_vinyl_tailoring_tape_measure_120.jpg_220x220.jpg and measure the blueprint and then transfer that measurement to the metal. Usually the vinyl tape measure is only used on the metal to avoid unwanted scratches.

 

[red4]

That I'm not sure of. It depends on the smith. As for myself, I prefer written measurements on the blueprint similar to this... http://www.therpf.com/gallery/data/670/medium/LUKE_HERO1_EP6.jpg or this http://www.geocities.ws/mhtaylor67/images/cad/lukerotj.gif but I'm used to just getting a drawing. IMHO, your drawing is just fine for most smiths. They would print it to the scale you want (in this case, 10" long) and then use a ruler to determine all the measurements. Easy peasy.

As for how to transfer the marks to aluminum, Once the blueprint it to scale, I either use a metal ruler like this one... http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/...bile-Ruler-Metric-scale-Level-Woodworking.jpg or a vinyl tape measure used in making clothes, like this one... http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/1820276639/3m_body_vinyl_tailoring_tape_measure_120.jpg_220x220.jpg and measure the blueprint and then transfer that measurement to the metal. Usually the vinyl tape measure is only used on the metal to avoid unwanted scratches.

Basically I really need to get those measurements, right? I think I can do it, and assign certain "give" areas that can be compressed or elongated by the machinist to compensate for any measurements that add too much length. In other words, the length needs to be 10 inches, and the "give" areas will allow certain measurements to slide around within a certain tolerance to prevent the added up measurements from exceeding 10 inches. I hope this doesn't sound too convoluted.

 

[ARKM]

I'm not sure I'm understanding you right. Maybe the following is just a different way of stating what you already stated, lol...

Let's say you fix the grooves to match a standard triangular cutting tool to overcome that one hurdle. Now you're ready to print it to scale. You keep changing the scale in the print options until it measures 10 inches long when printed. Now you have your blueprint. The blueprint is static once printed to the proper scale, meaning it does not change. That means you cannot possibly add all the different measurements up to be under or over 10" long unless you're really horrible at basic math. As long as you measure everything properly, it will always add up to 10". You then submit the blueprint to the machinist that way without making any note of any "give" areas. Now once the machinist has the blueprint in hand and examines it, if they say "Here's an area I don't think I can get exact. Is it ok if I make X part this way or Y Part that way?" then you work out those details together.

 

[red4]

I'm not sure I'm understanding you right. Maybe the following is just a different way of stating what you already stated, lol...

Let's say you fix the grooves to match a standard triangular cutting tool to overcome that one hurdle. Now you're ready to print it to scale. You keep changing the scale in the print options until it measures 10 inches long when printed. Now you have your blueprint. The blueprint is static once printed to the proper scale, meaning it does not change. That means you cannot possibly add all the different measurements up to be under or over 10" long unless you're really horrible at basic math. As long as you measure everything properly, it will always add up to 10". You then submit the blueprint to the machinist that way without making any note of any "give" areas. Now once the machinist has the blueprint in hand and examines it, if they say "Here's an area I don't think I can get exact. Is it ok if I make X part this way or Y Part that way?" then you work out those details together.

That's where the measurements go off kilter. If I don't place the ruler in exactly the same spot every single time I take a measurement, the slight shifts of the ruler add up, resulting in screwed up measurements. I basically have to glue the ruler to the paper to stop it from moving at all until every single measurement has been taken. For example, lets say I measure one of the rings in the central grip. All 8 are supposed to be identical; but lets say I only measure 1, and my ruler says it is 0.25inch. Then I multiply that number by 8, which yields 2 inches. Then I place the ruler on the paper to verify that it's actually 2 inches, and it ends up being less than 2 inches. My math was not wrong; the error is in the manufacturing process of the ruler. In fact, I have confirmed that many rulers are erroneous this way; so much that one brand of rulers measures differently than another. The numbers that the rulers give me do not accurately reflect what I have drawn on the computer.

Here's a diagram to explain the "give" areas:

If the ruler makes the red area too long, then the green area can be shortened. If the ruler makes the red area too short, the green area can be lengthened.

 

[ARKM]

All I can say is I don't have that problem.

Since your measurements might not all come out to be to an exact millimeter or 1/32 of an inch once scaled to 10" long, it might be best to use dial or digital calipers anyways and measure in the thousands of inches. This allows for greater accuracy and is what U.S. machinists want anyways For example, Instead of 1-3/8" we want it to say 1.375". Also, that way you have a lot less material to subtract or add to each individual measurement to get the 10". Just a suggestion.

 

[red4]

All I can say is I don't have that problem.

Since your measurements might not all come out to be to an exact millimeter or 1/32 of an inch once scaled to 10" long, it might be best to use dial or digital calipers anyways and measure in the thousands of inches. This allows for greater accuracy and is what U.S. machinists want anyways For example, Instead of 1-3/8" we want it to say 1.375". Also, that way you have a lot less material to subtract or add to each individual measurement to get the 10". Just a suggestion.

If the measurements are supplied to the machinist by the client, what do you think a good price would be?

 

[ARKM]

Well, not all sabersmiths do threading similar to what one would see on MHS parts and I really don't know what they would charge for that particular service. If it were to have 3 or 4 screws to hold in the pommel and 3 or 4 screws to hold in the blade holder instead of threading, I'd say this could cost you anywhere from $100 to $300 but I might be lowballing. *shrugs* Commission work is usually more expensive than non-commissioned work.

 

[scottjua]

how wide are you imagining that emitter flange? That's the widest part, and if machined from one piece the stock needs to be THAT wide... and that's a lot of material to remove on the rest just for that one measurement.

Now IF you went with a separate piece for the emitter, that would make things easier... less time consuming.

OR compromise on your design... say... if it HAS to be a single upper piece, then an extruded 60621 tube with a .75" IS and 1.5" OD then no one would have to bore it out. It would come with your .75" ID for your blade.

Still it would require a lot of material removal just to accommodate that wide emitter. That would take LOTS of time...

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Also... you need calipers. NEED.

 

[red4]

how wide are you imagining that emitter flange? That's the widest part, and if machined from one piece the stock needs to be THAT wide... and that's a lot of material to remove on the rest just for that one measurement.

Now IF you went with a separate piece for the emitter, that would make things easier... less time consuming.

OR compromise on your design... say... if it HAS to be a single upper piece, then an extruded 60621 tube with a .75" IS and 1.5" OD then no one would have to bore it out. It would come with your .75" ID for your blade.

Still it would require a lot of material removal just to accommodate that wide emitter. That would take LOTS of time...

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Also... you need calipers. NEED.

Wait wait, do you mean I, as the client, need calipers to take measurements to create the blueprint? Or do you mean the calipers are only used by the machinist when transferring the measurements onto the aluminum stock?

As for your first point: I think I will look for a way to redesign the emitter as a separate piece. It is 1.75 inches wide.

Well, not all sabersmiths do threading similar to what one would see on MHS parts and I really don't know what they would charge for that particular service. If it were to have 3 or 4 screws to hold in the pommel and 3 or 4 screws to hold in the blade holder instead of threading, I'd say this could cost you anywhere from $100 to $300 but I might be lowballing. *shrugs* Commission work is usually more expensive than non-commissioned work.

I don't want any pieces to have threading. That sounds too complex, and therefore expensive. I would try to have each section attach with a single screw - as hidden as possible, or disguised as a greeble.

 

[ARKM]

I think he meant the first part but most likely the smith will use calipers to transfer certain measurements and whatnot. Mostly we use the calipers to measure diameters but it also helps with linear measurements.

 

[red4]

Emitter drawn as a separate piece, held in place with a tiny set screw:

 

[vader1974]

I shot you a pm.

I am in DFW and have machined a couple one off lightsabers and other stuff.

 

[SkunkonToast]

Would you also be able to do the perpendicular details, such as for the screws?

I don't see that being a problem dude, you could either set them in the hilt or profile them to fit on the outside of the hilt. Personally I'd set them in a bit. Sorry I'm a little late with my reply had a bad day yesterday and ended up in hospital with a collapsed lung.

 

[red4]

I don't see that being a problem dude, you could either set them in the hilt or profile them to fit on the outside of the hilt. Personally I'd set them in a bit. Sorry I'm a little late with my reply had a bad day yesterday and ended up in hospital with a collapsed lung.

That sucks about your lung.
Anyway, there's no rush. My self-imposed deadline for this hilt is December 2015.
I figured setting the Covertec wheel into the hilt would be easier than profiling it to "straddle" the outer diameter.
The wheel on here is set into the hilt:

 

[red4]

About 2 days of work, lots of errors that had to be triple-checked, and still not half done.

 

[H380]

Nice. Here is an example. Make all measurements start at one end of the part. That way they must total less than the overall length. A easy sanity check.

 

[Calaeryn]

red4, I PMed you back...sorry, been really busy the last few weeks.

 

[red4]

red4, I PMed you back...sorry, been really busy the last few weeks.

and replied :thumbsup

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Nice. Here is an example. Make all measurements start at one end of the part. That way they must total less than the overall length. A easy sanity check.
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy145/H380/remington_700_blueprint_1_zpsefxsb1nb.jpg

Yep, I'll make it all pretty and coherent once I've got the jumble of measurements down. Thanks for the tip.

 

[red4]

Almost 2 weeks of work, and still not done.

 

[vader1974]

Is it necessary for the pommel and the lower end of the body to be separate?