Wet sanding to get rid of paint drips?

First off, Krylon Gloss SUCKS. Despite a million thin coats, the drips just popped up! To fix things up, I'm planning on shaving through the drip to get it a bit more level and wet sand with some 2000 grit. Is there a certain type of sandpaper for wet sanding? The normal stuff works for a while, but then disintegrates into a pulpy mess. Thanks in advance!

-Jonaas
 
You may try auto parts stores such as Autozone. Depending on the selection your local Wal-Mart may have wet/dry in the automotive paint section next to their spray paints and Bondo.

-John
 
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different countries but same products I am sure

2000grit may be a little OTT IMO 1000 - 1200 should be fine.
its the stuff from car shops which is designated for automotive paintjobs. I am always near a tap or bowl of water as well. pulpy stuff does build up, then wash away and repeat ad nauseum

its stuff like this http://www.autobarn.net/3mimwepash.html although I use a cheap generic brand here in UK

this is an example of the finish I got with this technique (pre-gloss coating)
18112008533.jpg
 
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Most black sand paper is water proof.

And you may want to start at around 400 and then go finer once you have "cut" the drip/run down...

2000 and you could see sanding for years...

Rich
 
two main types of sandpaper, open coat and closed coat... open coat is usually the light brown stuff, that is made for wood work, closed coat [dark grey] is the stuff you want [as others have stated, i'm just an insufferable busybody and have to chime in]
 
I dont know what you are working on, and/or what scale.

But for delicate stuff, I use Tamiya sandpaper, they are not cheap, but works well with plastic and putty either wet or dry.

For Gloss paint, use either Mr. Hobby Extra Gloss, or Tamiya Clear. Both comes in rattle can. Or, if money is no object, then ask your auto paint to gel gloss it.
 
Basically, what everyone has been saying is correct. The sandpaper available through auto stores is the best route to go, though it is also available at hardware stores.

Some tips - the higher the grit #, the finer the grit. Generally, you want to work your way up. The coarser stuff will remove the drips, but will also scratch the surface around the drips. Starting off with 2000 grit will take a LOT of elbow grease to see any results. If the drips are severe, I would start out with 400 grit and try to contain the sanding to just the area around the drips. Once they are reduced, switch to 600 grit and widen the area you are sanding (this will help remove and stray scratches and feather in your work). Once that is done, move up to 1500 grit. You should be using lot of water and using lighter pressure as you go. Believe it or not, by listen carefully, you'll hear a slight change in pitch as you sand. That will be a clue that you've sanded a given area evenly. Give it a good washing and see if you are satisfied. I have gotten excellent results by spraying on a thick coat of paint and then sanding/buffing it out.

If you need to respray it, try this. Shake up the can o' krylon a bit, and then let it stand in a shallow tray of warm (not HOT) water for a couple of minutes. This will help soften the paint and also serve to pressurize the can a bit more, resulting in a finer spray. Also, you may have spraying a bit to close, so move back a bit.

Post a photo of the trouble area and we'll chime in with more tips.

Gene
 
pulpy stuff does build up, then wash away and repeat ad nauseum

I forgot to mention that adding a drop or two of dish soap to your sanding project will help with the “sludge” buildup and keep your sandpaper cleaner longer.

-John
 
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I was recently spraying my scout helmet and had three runs marks on the lid grrrrrr due to over spraying

I left the sprayed up helmet for a few days for the paint too fully harden and then used neat (concentrated ) washing up liquid with a bit of wet and dry.

I found the concentrated washing up liquid helped sand the run marks out alot quicker than just using water.:thumbsup
 
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