Here is a post of mine, from awhile back. Some newer paints out now, but this was some of my experiance!
Here's some info I've gathered about Alclad paint. Maybe be of some use? I have pics of some samples I painted as well. It seems to
be some great stuff. Pics are on the poor man's neuralyzel thread
So! EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT*ALCLAD*2*PAINT, THAT I HAVE LEARNED THE HARD WAY! That should be able to track down on the search function!
I have noticed a lot of people, across the web, who try, but give no final answers! Well here they are! Some may disagree with me, but if you have not devoted answers, than you have not helped!
1.*Alclad*2 is not a lacquer! To put it simply, it is a metallic, that is held in suspension, with a alcohol based chemical.*
2. The surface you spray it over, has to be smooth as glass, for best results. Weather that involves, wetsanding, recoating, and a coat of a gloss top coat, this will help the look.
3. Do not spray over a Lacquer based black! (you might think this would be the best option, since it says it's a lacquer right? Go back to step 1!) It will not stick! It wipes off like powder.
4. Spray an Enamel based black (or*alclad's black) first, make sure it's as slick as you an get it, wait for it to cure good, than apply the*alclad*2*paint.
5. After waiting several days, you can apply Future floor wax, by Pledge. Yes they have changed the bottle, but it's the same product modeler's have used before. Some say it kills the look! It does take away from the look a little bit, but nothing like a solvent based clear. Future floor wax is like a water based coating, so it does not attack the chrome finish, like other clear's do.
6. You cannot apply lacquer clear, or urethane (2 part automotive clear) over top the*alclad*2! Not from a distance!, Not in a tack coat!, Not in a small tack coat, spraying far away, or upside down, than applying a thick coat! IT WILL NOT WORK! That also goes for the House of Kolor chrome*paint*as well! It react's to the clear, by turning a dark grey silver! It sucks! This goes for the Enamel chrome*paint's as well.
7. Right now, where I live, it's about 30 degree's. So if I was to go outside, spray gloss black enamel, over my project, the*paint*will wrinkle! Go ahead!, try it! It sucks, but it's the nature of enamel*paint! Even if you*paint*indoors, with a good working temperature, it can still wrinkle! The reason is the enamel not only needs good airflow, but heat, and the sun!
8. If you want to tackle using enamel's in the winter, you need to try out some idea's. I made a little cabinet area, with a front opening. Then I put a small electric space heater inside. Using this as a little oven of sorts, to hang parts that were painted over top the heater. I tried this technique with Krylon Fusion spray can enamel, in 8 hour shifts, for 2 days (keeping a watchful eye to make sure nothing would catch on fire!) and it provided a great cureing for the*paint. If you want to try this, PLEASE BE CAREFUL!! KEEP YOUR EYEBALLS ON IT!!! Space heaters can be dangerous, without painted parts hanging over top of them!
There is a difference between, dry, and cure, when it comes to enamel*paint! Dry is when you can pick up the object, but, it can still finger print. this happens, because the top of the*paint*is dry. But, underneath, it's still trying to solidify (cure!). In the winter, on the East coast, this could take months!*
I think this is a very big problem, for some of the enamel chrome*paint's as well! No sun, no heat, and very dry air (without any good amount of humidity), equals, no cure!
I have used Testor's chrome*paint*(enamel!) before in the summer time, and had no problems. But I also let it sit out in the sun, with heat as it's friend, and it's cured! I tried this on the Neuralizer project, applied very light coats, let it sit for a month! But without some summer heat, and sun, their was no cure! So it smudged, and finger printed!
Back in the day's of when enamel's where used on cars, they would use a catalyst, or a gloss hardner. This made the finish cure, within a day or so. without it, it could take month's or years, before it was finally cured. Which also meant, they could not wetsand and buff the vehicle! It would turn into a gummy mess!
Why am I going into such detail about enamel? Because it's what has to go underneath the*alclad*2*paint!
Below are some pictures, of the*alclad*2*paint, applied over a plastic spoon. I started with a lacquer primer (which could be wetsanded with 600 grit for a smoother finish), applied Krylon Fussion gloss black*paint. I hung this over the space heater, for a couple days, to get a better cure. Than finished withalclad*2*paint. It could look better, but it gives you an idea, of how it looks.*
I tried using Future floor wax, by spraying it through my Iwata HP-CS, airbrush. It did not need any reduction, in my opinion. I had to turn down my air pressure, to keep it from running. I noticed it did dull it a little bit, but for the protection it provides, I think it was worth it. The*alclad*2*paint*does dry pretty good, but you can scratch the finish. Not to mention, it will rub off, if you try hard enough.*
