Just some basics on waterslide decals helps with the 'why' of 'setting' and 'sol' liquids.
First, silvering is a symptom of a matte or 'flat' surface under the decal film creating a refraction effect as light passes through the clear film, through air trapped under the film & bounces back. Since a flat surface finish works by having a microscopically 'pebbled' texture, the decal film simply lays atop the 'peaks', leaving the evil air gap.
Setting and solvent ('sol') liquids will not address this issue to any real degree. Only application of decals over a
glossy finish (which allows for complete contact with the surface) can ensure there is no silvering. (Of course, none of this is an issue for dry transfers...)
What Set & Sol will do is make the decal 1) easier to apply by lessening the surface tension under the decal (Set) and/or 2) softening the decal so it can conform to surface details like panel lines, rivets, etc. (Sol.) The Microscale products are designed to work with the Microscale aftermarket decals (and Superscale, and any others printed by MS...) and are generally compatible with most any decals you might encounter. I have heard of the Sol having no effect on certain kit decals, as it is fairly mild compared to some (SolvaSet is another, somewhat stronger brand) but the best practice is to first test a sample decal (an unneeded one or sometimes the numbers or the brand mark will be decals you can use) from the sheet you're using
before committing something irreplaceable. Many a builder has been frustrated when a decal shatters once wet or tears up on the model! Even old or weak decals can be saved if a problem is found before it is too late, as there are 'liquid decal film' products & clear spray films that can be used to reinforce the decals. But, as always, a test is needed to ensure compatibility amongst all the chemistry you're playing with...
So, with a waterslide decal you have three basic 'fluids' in play: the adhesive layer between the paper and the decal film, the setting solution which goes on the surface before the decal and the softener which is applied *after* the decal is in place (just follow the directions.) Most WS decals are designed to be quickly dipped in warm water (enough to saturate the paper) then set aside to allow the water to re-hydrate the adhesive. Once the adhesive is 'liquid' again (or hydroscopically repelled) by the water coming through the backing paper, it will free the decal. Mostly, the backing paper is cut so there is a 'tab' to grab with tweezers so the whole thing can be lifted to the desired spot and then, using something to gently push the decal over the paper's edge and then 'snag' it on the surface, the paper is pulled out from under the decal so the design falls right into place into the Set already applied. Then you can use something absorbent to wick off any excess liquid so the decal doesn't 'float' out of position, followed by gentle tamping with a soft absorbent rag (chamios is good & lint free!) Then, if needed, Sol can be used. [Note: most softeners will cause the decal to 'wrinkle' while working, but once 'dry' the decal - almost always - will flatten down tight to the surface.]
This process works best when you are decaling on a horizontal surface, so some kind of prop is needed to hold the model in the proper orientation (a bunched towel, cut box, bent wire rack, etc.)
Set & Sol, btw, will not substitute for adhesive. I recall an issue at one time with a kit maker's decals that had an excessive amount of adhesive, which showed up as a white 'scum' in the decal water (especially for those who were dropping the decals in for a 'swim' instead of just wetting the backing...) There was advice to wash off the white stuff because it left a residue on the model, however the decals were then shortly falling off - because all the glue had been removed! Glue residue, which is that yellow or orang 'gunk' you see on old garage sale models, is supposed to be washed off once the decaling is done (the glue under the decals is protected by the decal film, unless you've poked a bunch of holes trying to correct silvering...)
If you have a 'bad glue' day, you can use diluted white (PVA) glue to help or even Johnsons Multi-Finish Floor coating (the infamous 'Future Floor Wax' clear acrylic coating.) I've used the Johnson's trick before instead of Set by applying a suitable 'puddle' for the decal, then wicking off the excess with a brush. Once dry, the self-leveling and 'tightening' effect of the clear coating really draws the decal down on the surface - and no silvering!
There is a lot more to learn about decaling, but this should help get you going. I highly recommend the technique vids produced by master modeler Paul Budzik [
http://paulbudzik.com/] which include information about decaling & decal systems.
Regards, Robert
