Voyager Tricorder Dimensions

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Here's what I've got so far. I don't think it's going to be totally accurate, but I like where it's going.

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I was originally just going to make a solid static prop, but I think I'm going to go all out and put electronics in it as well
 
Pretty good for a first attempt.

I would say to really nail this, start a new model on the front plane, draw out the front face of the Tricorder (the one with all the LED "sensors") then simply extrude it back to the desired length.
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Then on the side plane, trim away the area the easier segments.
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It will give you the most accurate model.
It's quicker than trying to make a box and then cut away the curved sides or use fillets to get the shape.
Good luck.
 
I just went back and double checked as something looked off.
Not sure why but 1 measurement was wrong, calipers must have slipped or had a blip.
Here is the correct dimension.
 

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looked like the callipers digital readout lost track... Its ok. I was looking at the ruler measure anyway :D
 
(Or any kit that copied the original prop molds)
Stapleton's kit is as near as you can get, I have an HMS kit and a Stapleton kit and the dimensions are extremely close. The only difference being, the HMS kit is vacuumformed PETG for the main body and the Stapleton body is resin.
 
I would guess it is a hand crafted replica based on measurements of an HMS original.
Thank you! I'd love to take some hand measurements of an HMS kit. Would you (or someone else here) be open to lending me theirs for a short time? I'm happy to cover all shipping costs and will provide personal credentials or references to ensure trust and legitimacy.
 
Thank you! I'd love to take some hand measurements of an HMS kit. Would you (or someone else here) be open to lending me theirs for a short time? I'm happy to cover all shipping costs and will provide personal credentials or references to ensure trust and legitimacy.
Uhhhh...
 
Gee, new member wants someone to ship him a very valuable replica so he can rip-off the original creator's research... <Sarcasm font> NO RED FLAGS HERE /<Sarcasm font>
 
I understand the hesitation, but I'm here to learn and contribute just like you all. I'm simply intrigued by accuracy.

It would be ideal if I could hand measure the piece to study each and every bevel.

However, if that's not possible, it would be great if someone could:
- Take 'orthographic' pictures from all sides with a mm grid/paper in the background (putting the camera at great distance and zooming in, virtually eliminating perspective)
- Measure several vertex distances (for better reconstruction, each line in the attached image)

I understand that this is a bit of an effort, that's why I'd be willing to do the work myself whilst providing full transparency and trust, but I understand the hesitation.
 

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I understand and respect the criticism. However, I'm here to learn, contribute and hopefully give back something worthwhile to the community.

It would be ideal if I could hand measure the piece to study each and every bevel.

However, if that's not possible, it would be great if someone could:
- Take 'orthographic' pictures from all sides with a mm grid/paper in the background (putting the camera at great distance and zooming in, virtually eliminating perspective)
- Measure several vertex distances (for better reconstruction, each line in the attached image)

I understand that this is a bit of an effort, that's why I'd be willing to do the work myself whilst providing full transparency and trust (giving the sender my full credentials and whatever they need)
I would say your best bet at the moment given your new status on the board would be to contact Myron Stapleton and build up one of his kits to get an idea of how everything comes together, especially if you have never tackled a Tricorder before.
This is his eBay profile

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and build up one of his kits to get an idea of how everything comes together
Thank you for the contact! I am familiar with building a Tricorder and also modeled one myself (I'm an E.E. student and am designing custom PCBs for it), but I am unhappy with the proportions and would love to get to the screen-used original as close as possible, down to the 10th of a millimeter (ideally without spending $200 and using measurements from the original HMS)

I hope you can appreciate my obsessive attention to detail :)
 
As a point of reference (and to help introduce myself) I recently shared a custom Dolphin Phaser build here on the forum.
 
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