U.S.S. Endeavor, NCC-1716
- Thread starter Gregatron
- Start date
Alright, I made a decision. While the 28 radial saucer gridlines (TOS style) are more accurate, I’ve decided to give G-Cals another chance, and ordered a second set of the same 1/1000 Refit-style Aztecs (with the 16 radial lines), as well as a kitbash sheet with extra, random paneling to fill in any sparce areas.
As noted, the Aztec version of the 28-line decals simply looks too busy, with two little Aztec “men” per section of the grid, instead of just one, as on the TMP Refit.
Now, I could have gone with just the gridline decals themselves (with no hull paneling), or drawn them on, but, at the end of the day, I think this model needs those subtle Aztecs, for that “TOS 1.5” look. The overall design and color scheme of the model already skews more toward TOS, and so I think a good balance would be having hull plating and markings which skew toward TMP.
It’s a different look, for sure. That being said, it’s gotta be subtle. I’ll likely enhance the gridlines with pastel chalk weathering, and then mist the base hull color over everything to significantly tone down the contrast. Subtle is the key.
After my aborted first attempt, I now have a plan. Rather than quartering the saucer grids, I’ll cut them into smaller wedges (a la the Round 2 kits’ Aztec decals), and carefully assemble the grid a section at a time. I’ll also give the decals a few coats of liquid decal film, beforehand.
Fact of the matter is, drawing the grids on is tedious, although I do like the results I’ve gotten in the past. I’m also currently building an Enterprise for a friend, and will probably go the pencil route on that build, as I did on my own personal build (seen below).
As noted, the Aztec version of the 28-line decals simply looks too busy, with two little Aztec “men” per section of the grid, instead of just one, as on the TMP Refit.
Now, I could have gone with just the gridline decals themselves (with no hull paneling), or drawn them on, but, at the end of the day, I think this model needs those subtle Aztecs, for that “TOS 1.5” look. The overall design and color scheme of the model already skews more toward TOS, and so I think a good balance would be having hull plating and markings which skew toward TMP.
It’s a different look, for sure. That being said, it’s gotta be subtle. I’ll likely enhance the gridlines with pastel chalk weathering, and then mist the base hull color over everything to significantly tone down the contrast. Subtle is the key.
After my aborted first attempt, I now have a plan. Rather than quartering the saucer grids, I’ll cut them into smaller wedges (a la the Round 2 kits’ Aztec decals), and carefully assemble the grid a section at a time. I’ll also give the decals a few coats of liquid decal film, beforehand.
Fact of the matter is, drawing the grids on is tedious, although I do like the results I’ve gotten in the past. I’m also currently building an Enterprise for a friend, and will probably go the pencil route on that build, as I did on my own personal build (seen below).
Aztec decals arrived, albeit a bit late.
As it turns out, they’re much lighter in tone than the previous set. G-Cals offers Aztecs in light, medium, and dark, depending on how much contrast one is looking to show. The first batch must have been dark, and the new one light.
So, these new decals may not actually need a base color misting coat to blend them in. Or maybe a very light one, if any. I won’t know for sure until they’re applied.
As it turns out, they’re much lighter in tone than the previous set. G-Cals offers Aztecs in light, medium, and dark, depending on how much contrast one is looking to show. The first batch must have been dark, and the new one light.
So, these new decals may not actually need a base color misting coat to blend them in. Or maybe a very light one, if any. I won’t know for sure until they’re applied.
Okay.
I’ve been working on other projects while I figured out how to proceed. I DID get a new airbrush, and it works great.
Upon deliberation, I ended up ordering yet another set of Aztec decals. This time, I gave them a light coat of matte clear to lock them down, rather than using liquid decal film. I’m happy to report no running ink or other damage.
I should have the time in a few days to sit down and apply them. And, with my new airbrush, I can gently blend them in with a misting of the base color.
On the flipside, i just finished the misting coat for my aforementioned Enterprise build (the one I’m making for a friend), after I penciled on the gridlines and applied pastel chalk weathering. Once that’s fully dried, I can apply more chalk to both bring back the gridlines in certain spots, and calibrate the degree of weathering/streaking.
It should be interesting to compare the results of both techniques (decals vs. pencil/chalk) on each of the models.
I’ve been working on other projects while I figured out how to proceed. I DID get a new airbrush, and it works great.
Upon deliberation, I ended up ordering yet another set of Aztec decals. This time, I gave them a light coat of matte clear to lock them down, rather than using liquid decal film. I’m happy to report no running ink or other damage.
I should have the time in a few days to sit down and apply them. And, with my new airbrush, I can gently blend them in with a misting of the base color.
On the flipside, i just finished the misting coat for my aforementioned Enterprise build (the one I’m making for a friend), after I penciled on the gridlines and applied pastel chalk weathering. Once that’s fully dried, I can apply more chalk to both bring back the gridlines in certain spots, and calibrate the degree of weathering/streaking.
It should be interesting to compare the results of both techniques (decals vs. pencil/chalk) on each of the models.
Aztec decaling has begun. Everything is complete except for the nacelles, upper saucer, and saucer edge. I’m gonna left everything dry before I proceed, so as to avoid shifting or damaging the already-applied decals during handling.
Once the Aztec pattern is fully applied, the model will get another glosscoat, and the additional deflector grid pattern lines will be applied to the saucer edge to connect the upper and lower saucer’s gridlines, and over the Aztecs on the dorsal and secondary hull.
The pattern is already very light and subtle on the hull. I still intend to apply a light misting coat of the hull color after clearcoating so as to blend everything together and hide the few tiny decal tears and imperfections.
The final result should be very subdued—enough to make the ship look TOS-ish at first glance, with the subtle TMP panel pattern revealed upon closer inspection, as befitting the transitional/hybrid design of the model.
Once the Aztec pattern is fully applied, the model will get another glosscoat, and the additional deflector grid pattern lines will be applied to the saucer edge to connect the upper and lower saucer’s gridlines, and over the Aztecs on the dorsal and secondary hull.
The pattern is already very light and subtle on the hull. I still intend to apply a light misting coat of the hull color after clearcoating so as to blend everything together and hide the few tiny decal tears and imperfections.
The final result should be very subdued—enough to make the ship look TOS-ish at first glance, with the subtle TMP panel pattern revealed upon closer inspection, as befitting the transitional/hybrid design of the model.
Aztecing is complete. Micro Sol applied. I’ll let everything dry overnight, then give it a coat of Future, then the additional gridlines, then more Future, then the base color misting.
While the Aztecs and grids are already subtle, the model definitely needs that misting coat to tie it all together and make it look more in-scale.
Photos to come.
While the Aztecs and grids are already subtle, the model definitely needs that misting coat to tie it all together and make it look more in-scale.
Photos to come.
Aztecs and gridlines are complete.
Fortunately, the upper and lower saucer lines were aligned properly, so that the saucer edge lines connected them with little fuss.
The Mastercom schematics in SHIPS OF THE STAR FLEET only show an upper view of the Endeavor, and side views of a few other ships. Each of these other ships has a different secondary hull grid configuration.
Since I already broke from the schematics by using the Refit grid spacing on the saucer rather than the TOS style (16 radial lines instead of 28), I also took some liberties with both the dorsal and secondary hull grid.
For the secondary hull, I went with four vertical lines encircling the barrel-body, similar to what was done on the 1991 restoration of the 11-foot Enterprise. And then I added two horizontal lines (which the pennants will sit between), to suggest a push in the direction of the Refit's grid pattern.
Once this all dries overnight, it's on to another clearcoat, then masking off the detail areas and gently misting the base color over the Aztecs and grids. I may end up bringing the grid back in places with pastel chalk weathering, if I go overboard with the misting.
Fortunately, the upper and lower saucer lines were aligned properly, so that the saucer edge lines connected them with little fuss.
The Mastercom schematics in SHIPS OF THE STAR FLEET only show an upper view of the Endeavor, and side views of a few other ships. Each of these other ships has a different secondary hull grid configuration.
Since I already broke from the schematics by using the Refit grid spacing on the saucer rather than the TOS style (16 radial lines instead of 28), I also took some liberties with both the dorsal and secondary hull grid.
For the secondary hull, I went with four vertical lines encircling the barrel-body, similar to what was done on the 1991 restoration of the 11-foot Enterprise. And then I added two horizontal lines (which the pennants will sit between), to suggest a push in the direction of the Refit's grid pattern.
Once this all dries overnight, it's on to another clearcoat, then masking off the detail areas and gently misting the base color over the Aztecs and grids. I may end up bringing the grid back in places with pastel chalk weathering, if I go overboard with the misting.
As I get closer to applying the rest of the decals, I’m circling back to a few decisions which need to be made. I have to determine whether to push more toward TOS, TMP, or a hybrid version for the markings.
As noted, I can go with the standard Federation Bold Extended (TMP/TNG) font for the name and registry markings, or the in-between version (as seen on various builds of this design), with the absence of the red outline around the markings.
Also, I have to decide whether to use two NCC markings on either side of the lower saucer (TOS style), or a single, centered number following the curvature of the deflector grid (TMP style).
And then there are the other little things, like whether to add the TMP-style gangway hatch on the saucer rim, etc.
As noted, I can go with the standard Federation Bold Extended (TMP/TNG) font for the name and registry markings, or the in-between version (as seen on various builds of this design), with the absence of the red outline around the markings.
Also, I have to decide whether to use two NCC markings on either side of the lower saucer (TOS style), or a single, centered number following the curvature of the deflector grid (TMP style).
And then there are the other little things, like whether to add the TMP-style gangway hatch on the saucer rim, etc.
Masked off all the detail paint areas, and misted the base hull color over the model. I'm very pleased with the result. A subtle, mottled look. Just enough to indicate the presence of the Aztecs and gridlines.
Once everything is fully dry, I'll do the last few bits of detail painting/touchups, then do a light weathering pass with pastel chalks to tie everything together and give the gridlines a little extra pop.
Then another glosscoat or two, and we can finally move on to decals.
It's so nice to finally be in the home stretch on this one.
Once everything is fully dry, I'll do the last few bits of detail painting/touchups, then do a light weathering pass with pastel chalks to tie everything together and give the gridlines a little extra pop.
Then another glosscoat or two, and we can finally move on to decals.
It's so nice to finally be in the home stretch on this one.
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