subxinu
Active Member
I set out to build a TNG/DS9 Med Kit back in November; the weather has not played nice and I have had many delays but a recent prop party got me in gear to get it done for that party. I guessed on all of the dimensions from screen measurement and, well, I was off. After I had already gone past "the point of no return" I found out what the correct dimension are so, needless to say, this build is not screen accurate. It is actually a bit smaller but it holds the Tricorder and Hypo fine ...I built a custom PADD to go in this so the standard PADD size was not an issue. My next Med Kit build will be more accurate.
What I used: a few sheets of styrene, two tubes of CA, some lacquer thinner, paint and time.
Anyhow, onto the build...
Image 1: Templates were mocked up in Illustrator and used to cut out pieces in in styrene using a box cutter.
Image 2: Masking tape was used to hold individual pieces in place while CA was applied to glue them together.
Image 3: A few of the component parts together; left is the main body, center is the tricorder box, and the right is the storage box. FYI, the Shiner Bock is there purely for size comparison. lol
Image 4: Attaching the back using the same masking tape/CA combo; note the gaps around the Tricorder box!
Image 5: Close up of the gaps shown in image 3; hand cutting often results in such "issues." lol
Image 6: Repaired.
Image 7: This is the underside of the top portion that includes the strap holders; this is included to show the "plastic welding" (for lack of a better word) technique that I used to strengthen the styrene joints.
Image 8: The "plastic weld" medium is a mixture of lacquer thinner and styrene scraps; this mixture returns in a liquid styrene goop on the bottom and a thin layer of lacquer thinner on the top. The goop is drawn up in a small syringe and applied as desired. I used this method throughout this build to strengthen all the joints. BTW, the container is a polypropylene container that will not dissolve in lacquer thinner.
This set of images should actually, chronologically, follow "Image 3"...
Image 9: Front view with storage box attached.
Image 10: Back view with storage box attached and before back is applied
Image 11: A look before the storage box is attached
Image 12: Another view with more components visible
Image 13: Top view before top is applied
Image 14: Another view before top is applied; internal magnet is visible.
Image 15: Top is applied.
Image 16: View of the magnetic latch before it is applied to the door.
Images 17-19: The main body and internal boxes are all together
Image 20: A look at some scratch and dent repair with Bondo.
Image 21: All primered up.
Image 22: Silver paint applied
Image 23: The various detail pieces all lined up after paint; the LEDs are real LEDs taken from some Xmas lights.
Image 24: The Trek Caduceus stencil all cutout and ready for application; Easy Tack was used to apply the stencil to the door for paint.
Image 25: A view of the strap material.
Image 26: Everything is painted and attached other than the door; everything was clear coated with a satin clear lacquer.
Images 27-28: A view with a Hypospray and custom Voyager PADD.
Images 29-30: A view with the door open; with & without the PADD.
Image 31-34: Views around the finished Med Kit. The light attached is a custom modification to a light I found; I will post a mini-build thread on this piece later.
Image 35: The last image.
Thanks for looking.
- Karl
What I used: a few sheets of styrene, two tubes of CA, some lacquer thinner, paint and time.
Anyhow, onto the build...
Image 1: Templates were mocked up in Illustrator and used to cut out pieces in in styrene using a box cutter.
Image 2: Masking tape was used to hold individual pieces in place while CA was applied to glue them together.
Image 3: A few of the component parts together; left is the main body, center is the tricorder box, and the right is the storage box. FYI, the Shiner Bock is there purely for size comparison. lol
Image 4: Attaching the back using the same masking tape/CA combo; note the gaps around the Tricorder box!
Image 5: Close up of the gaps shown in image 3; hand cutting often results in such "issues." lol
Image 6: Repaired.
Image 7: This is the underside of the top portion that includes the strap holders; this is included to show the "plastic welding" (for lack of a better word) technique that I used to strengthen the styrene joints.
Image 8: The "plastic weld" medium is a mixture of lacquer thinner and styrene scraps; this mixture returns in a liquid styrene goop on the bottom and a thin layer of lacquer thinner on the top. The goop is drawn up in a small syringe and applied as desired. I used this method throughout this build to strengthen all the joints. BTW, the container is a polypropylene container that will not dissolve in lacquer thinner.
This set of images should actually, chronologically, follow "Image 3"...
Image 9: Front view with storage box attached.
Image 10: Back view with storage box attached and before back is applied
Image 11: A look before the storage box is attached
Image 12: Another view with more components visible
Image 13: Top view before top is applied
Image 14: Another view before top is applied; internal magnet is visible.
Image 15: Top is applied.
Image 16: View of the magnetic latch before it is applied to the door.
Images 17-19: The main body and internal boxes are all together
Image 20: A look at some scratch and dent repair with Bondo.
Image 21: All primered up.
Image 22: Silver paint applied
Image 23: The various detail pieces all lined up after paint; the LEDs are real LEDs taken from some Xmas lights.
Image 24: The Trek Caduceus stencil all cutout and ready for application; Easy Tack was used to apply the stencil to the door for paint.
Image 25: A view of the strap material.
Image 26: Everything is painted and attached other than the door; everything was clear coated with a satin clear lacquer.
Images 27-28: A view with a Hypospray and custom Voyager PADD.
Images 29-30: A view with the door open; with & without the PADD.
Image 31-34: Views around the finished Med Kit. The light attached is a custom modification to a light I found; I will post a mini-build thread on this piece later.
Image 35: The last image.
Thanks for looking.
- Karl