Thundercats : Sword Of Omens Dagger Build
- Thread starter Sorenzo
- Start date
Sorenzo
Well-Known Member
If memory serve correct, its SikaBlock Polyurethane model board, a medium-high density, around a 0.35/0.45 density I think.
razorsharp192
Sr Member
just seen this, looks great! will you be selling casts of this when its done? 
Sorenzo
Well-Known Member
just seen this, looks great! will you be selling casts of this when its done?
That's the plan alright. should be doing a run in a couple of weeks once she's complete.
Monster Dave
Sr Member
Monster Dave
Sr Member
Please keep us informed when you're ready to do a run. Depending on the cost I may be one of the first in line!!
Last edited:
Sorenzo
Well-Known Member
Haha, Brilliant :facepalm
Will do. I'll be back working on this tomorrow, so should be updating here in the next day or 2. Hoping to get it all finished pretty quickly.
Sorenzo
Well-Known Member
Here you can see the application of the styrene goop and how it looks after its been sanded and primed
Next step is to duplicate the cross guard piece. I could go ahead and build another one the same way, but getting it identical to the original would be difficult, so instead I'm going to mould and cast it. I removed the masking tape to expose the foam. Covering it meant it didn't lose any of its texture with the layers of primer. Lets see how it looks in the mould.
I'm using a J-mould technique here. Its a little bit more complicated in setting up than a standard suspension, but the 'gallows' frame means the piece is secure and won't move when the silicone is being poured. It also leaves a nice pour hole for the resin.
Plenty of space on all sides. Poured the silicone, I used Mold Star 16, claims to not need de-gasing, but as expected there were a few bubble, nothing major though.
Removed from the mould box and cut out the master. I don't have a mould knife cause they cost like £35, which is ridiculous, but a clean cut with a scalpel works so long as you retain the original mould box.
missing an image here?? wonder where it is??? will update later.
Now time to cast. Smoothcast 300, really quick cure. 90 seconds and it starts to go off.
They came out amazingly. Not entirely sure about the texture detail, may have to do something with it later, but I'll wait and see.
Last night I made a start on the Blade. More on that today I think.
Next step is to duplicate the cross guard piece. I could go ahead and build another one the same way, but getting it identical to the original would be difficult, so instead I'm going to mould and cast it. I removed the masking tape to expose the foam. Covering it meant it didn't lose any of its texture with the layers of primer. Lets see how it looks in the mould.
I'm using a J-mould technique here. Its a little bit more complicated in setting up than a standard suspension, but the 'gallows' frame means the piece is secure and won't move when the silicone is being poured. It also leaves a nice pour hole for the resin.
Plenty of space on all sides. Poured the silicone, I used Mold Star 16, claims to not need de-gasing, but as expected there were a few bubble, nothing major though.
Removed from the mould box and cut out the master. I don't have a mould knife cause they cost like £35, which is ridiculous, but a clean cut with a scalpel works so long as you retain the original mould box.
missing an image here?? wonder where it is??? will update later.
Now time to cast. Smoothcast 300, really quick cure. 90 seconds and it starts to go off.
They came out amazingly. Not entirely sure about the texture detail, may have to do something with it later, but I'll wait and see.
Last night I made a start on the Blade. More on that today I think.
This is coming along fantastically ! Still following ..... :thumbsup
:thumbsup
neosporing
Sr Member
yes, the suspense is killing me as well. hurry up already
Sorenzo
Well-Known Member
yes, the suspense is killing me as well. hurry up already
Haha, brilliant :$
I'm going as fast as I can.
lol:lol
fantastic. how do you plan on smoothing out the foam texture? thanks for sharing some very interesting techniques.
Sorenzo
Well-Known Member
I don't. I am leaving these areas rough, to help highlight the area. They will be painted a dark colour which will really make the details stand out.
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