Thickening resin

MisriahArmory

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I'd like to use a thickening agent with my smoothcast300 for a project.

The thing is : A. The only smooth-on distributor is too far and I don't have time to go up there
B. I'd like to cast the resin tomorrow.

So, does anyone know a home-made method for thickening SC300? I heard chopped fiberglass strands or shredded cotton.

Anyone knows another solution?

Thanks,
-L2
 
What are your reasons for thickening it?

Sawdust is the quick and easy, the finer the particles the better... If you have a belt sander or disc sander (one with a dust collector is a positive) get to work and make some sawdust... I would suggest either Balsa (easy to sand) or Poplar (harder wood) instead of cheap pines so you don't get the saps, also make sure it's DRY, moisture will create a resin volcano...

Edit... With the sawdust mix it with one side and let is soak for a a few minutes to make sure it's mixed well, then combine the other half of the resin...
 
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It's to pour inside a pepakura model. The low viscosity of SC300 makes it difficult for the first layer since it does nothing except leaking from every small hole.

I've received a PM about using alabaster. I may try it out, and I think I still have lots of dust running around that I could give a try. Thanks guys!

Sunny days are rare here, especially with a full time job ;)

EDIT : And for the desired viscosity, maybe like cream or yogourt would be the best. Like it needs to flow, but not too quick ^^
 
Couldnt you adjust your pour time by leaving it in the mixing cup longer till right before it kicks.
Try it in small ammounts first.
 
I´d thought that brushing thin layers of resin onto a pep model is the way to go ? Why pour it ? Wouldn´t you risk warping the model by applying too much resin at once ?
 
I use plain old Plaster of Paris. Just the dry powder. If you have any already, don't use it as it can be contaminated by moisture from the air. Just buy what you need fresh and it'll work like a charm. It also makes the resin harder. I make mold jackets with this mix.

Scott
 
The fiberglass technique can be used with pepakura, but the second technique is to use casting resin backed with microbubbles or any thickening agent to "cast" inside a paper "mold". Once a few coats of casting resin has cured, you can just sand off the paper.

Damn forecasting, was supposed to be sunny today. It's grey and rainy...
 
I use plain old Plaster of Paris. Just the dry powder. If you have any already, don't use it as it can be contaminated by moisture from the air. Just buy what you need fresh and it'll work like a charm. It also makes the resin harder. I make mold jackets with this mix.

Scott


Scott does that help with SHRINKAGE?
 
Hi,

I'd like to use a thickening agent with my smoothcast300 for a project.

The thing is : A. The only smooth-on distributor is too far and I don't have time to go up there
B. I'd like to cast the resin tomorrow.

So, does anyone know a home-made method for thickening SC300? I heard chopped fiberglass strands or shredded cotton.

Anyone knows another solution?

Thanks,
-L2
I have used saw dust, and wood always has moisture in it
and moisture mixed into polyurethane resin is a bad idea
since urethane resin does not like moisture, but if you want a foamy mess...

If you are in a hurry why not just use fiber glass cloth
strips. paint in a coat of resin lay a fiber glass strip over the resin
then brush more resin over the strip. you may need to use two layers of
glass cloth, just make sure that the resin in between layers is still tacky
before adding the next layer. because if the first layer of resin cures fully
and looses its tack the next layer will not stick.
And a FYI for those of you who have not tried it
As far as I am concerned Poly Fiber 2 from PolyTek is by far the best
thickening agent I have ever used in any polyurethane plastic and silicone rubber

It is not evil like cabosil which floats in the air and makes it hard to breath.
 
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