The Topknot Build. New photos of torso life cast build. 05/07/2015

alphatech686 said:
So I pulled the Skin flex loin cloth. It turned ok but I'm not completely satisfied with how the material feels. I spoke to ptgreek last night for a little advise. I have to dip my toe into the silicone pool soon anyway so I ordered some Dragonskin and some tints to do the lion cloth over in that. Here are a couple of shots of the Skin flex.
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I think that looks great bud!  My advise is next time you pour one of these and the mold is topped up, lay a piece of fleece cloth over the silicone and let it seep into the fabric.  Then when you demold just trim the excess off...and the fleece will keep it from sagging.  I think the sagging actually adds to the realism of this piece, so 'maybe' you only really need it fabric backed on the top 3rd section.  That way when anchored to the suit the top portion stays true to form, yet the lower parts start to sag.  Just food for thought bud...loving this whole build. :)

David
 
This build has always blown my mind. Your kind of work is what this place is about...doing it yourself. You are doing an outstannding job on everything. Cheers to you sir. It is looking unreal.
 
Thanks for keeping up with this everyone and thanks for the comments. I had a little set back last night. I poured the lion cloth in
Dragonskin and didn't realize silicone does not set up well against urethanes, so that was a hot mess when I pulled it this morning. I got right back at it and spent about an hour cleaning the mold and sealing it with acrylic. Her is the Dragonskin in the mold.
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I hope it turns out well for you! You've done an awesome job so far! Your work is encouraging me to make my suit better each day!


Eli
 
Thanks guys. I have a small update. This first photo is of the Dragonskin lion cloth. I have one issue, it is not very soft. I ordered the sample kit of Dragonskin 10 but I believe this must be the 30 as it does not have a lot of stretch. I would say just a little better than Latex. I spoke to Smooth-On and they are sending me samples of each so I can compare. I would hope I am right as I am not impressed with the stuff I got. I started molding the cod piece today. The second photo is the silicone. Tomorrow I will place a quick plaster mother mold over it. Once this is molded I am scraping  the cod piece off as I decided this will be a good place to make a pour spout for when I fill this with foam.
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the softest silicone will be the ecoflex line ..we use Eco 20 for  our masks ..although we use Dragonskin 10 for animatronic skins ..if its really stiff then id say you got 30. you can slack any of the platinum silicones with platinum oil, however
 
Hey George, I got the samples and I did get Drogonskin 10. I guess I was expecting something softer than it is. I really like the echo10. I believe I will do the legs with it. I'm still contemplating the foam fill issue. Here is a picture of the part under the cod piece. 
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this is congruent with the sumo looking thing under the lion cloth in the back. I'm really pushing to finish the stupid texturing today. My goal 
is to get it to the garage to cover in a coat of Krylon tonight. 
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Im worried that eco 10 will be too soft for the legs. Try a sample of eco 20 first ..most of our masks are made in eco 20 ..with really thin sculptures ( like arm sleeves) we use eco 30 ..a bit firmer but is more tear resistant. You can always buy silicone oil from smooth-on ..you can deaden both your dragonskin and ecoflex with it to get it softer if youd like
 
Hey George I just sent for the sample kit of Dragon skin FX Pro. I also believe I have the foam fill issue figured out. I'll discuss it with you later. 
I just added the finishing touches which was a few scars. I took it to the garage and sealed it with grey Krylon. It's on to the molding. Very scary

I did the plate scar a little different. I'm hypothesizing the plates are a bit like bone so you can see the scar in that area has formed down in beyond the outer plate.
Yes I probably have to much time on my hands.
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This is a keloid scar from a horn impalement. After looking at it in the photo I will be touching it up a bit. 
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An alien claw possibly.
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 All sealed and ready
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 The clips that hold the inner lion cloth on.
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I actually got some stuff done. I started the molding process on the legs. I decided to try some different products. I used TC1570 as the gel coat. This is an epoxy so it is low odor. It was great. Very thick so there was no running. I did the first coat in 4 parts as it does start to set up in about 15 to 20 minutes. Then the trouble started I was just finishing and I had layed the sculpt down. Big mistake. The clay walls on both sides hit the floor. I was pissed at myself for not securing them. Fortunately I stood the sculpt up and slammed them back on and they stayed. Had I left it upright they never would have fallen. I have to do a little work on the edges now before I start the back side. So the next layer was Free Form Air epoxy putty. PTGreek suggested this stuff as part of the laminating process. It is 2 parts. You make a baseball size glob of each and knead it in your hands. I flattened it out and pressed it onto the gelcoat. It hardens to a nice shell. Then I used TC1600 Epoxy resin and fiberglass woven cloth for the next 2 coats. This stuff was great also. Low order, I still did it in the garage, and really nice to work with. It sets up fairly slow so I could do one entire layer in one pour. I decided on the epoxies because I had never used them and after researching them they appear to give a much more durable final product. The low odor was also an issue. Here are the photos.
Oh yea I sealed the water based clay walls with krylon and then using my spay gun and applied 5 or 6 light coats of PVA.
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This is the clay cutter I made in about 10 minutes. I saw one on youtube. It worked great.
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If I had just left it upright the debacle would never had happened. I didn't know how thick the gel coat was.
We live and learn.
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THe Free Air Putty.
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2 layers of epoxy resin/fiberglass cloth. 
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This is the inseam where the clay did not fall. All of the edges should have looked like this. Damn.
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This is one of the edges I have to touch up a bit. Damn!
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Something I did this morning. I recieved the Dragonskin FX Pro  (shore 2a). It is awesome.
I purchased the trail kit just to see what it was like. It is just the softness I was looking for.
These first 2 pictures are of the back . I didn't want it to be so perfectly smooth like silicone  
that is poured is so I started picking at the back while it was curing. I wanted it to look like it was ripped
off the skull. It turned out just like I wanted. I need to play with the silicone paints now. This lion cloth is working  
out well as my trial silicone piece.
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Jeff, you continue to keep me riveted to this build. You are just simply a molding/sculpting/creative/diligent machine. I know I have not been too active on the boards lately but I am watching (more like lurking) and I always love to see your updates. They are truly awe inspiring.

Steve
 
hey Jeff. How many pry points did you put into the flange of the leg mold.it looks very good, but my only concern would  be both the thickness and width of the flange and the lack of very many visible pry points. silicone has a tremendous suction you will need a bit of torque to demold off a core. Not too big a deal there are ways to shim open the mold as well
 
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