Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Think I just found a picture of the T2:3D store attraction display piece in Japan back from when it was still chrome looking.
T1 and T2 Endoskeleton Research Thread
- Thread starter Too Much Garlic
- Start date
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
LOL. They used the wrong pistons on the thighs.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Yeah, it's pretty weird how it went from that to this:
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
You can still see some of the chrome in places... but the rest is just dull grey. I think you are right that the clear coat might have messed things up. And perhaps also how it was displayed - if there were warm bright lights on it constantly and the temperature was hot!?
DeltaDesignRus
Well-Known Member
Reading through this thread again. Still a valuable resource.
Terminator T-800 Blueprints
NOTICE: Dropbox changed the way they host files, so all of the images and links in this thread are broken. Maybe someday I will go through and fix everything, but for now I'm releasing everything in zip files. All Blueprints/Drawings (13 mb) All 3D Files (Autodesk Inventor .ipt) (135 mb)...www.therpf.com
It seems like I once knew about it, forgot, and then remembered again.
In the second picture, there are many photos that I haven't seen before.
Attachments
DeltaDesignRus
Well-Known Member
I finally found a varnish that doesn't significantly affect the metallic effect of chrome paint. Here are all the layers:
- Plastic adhesion primer.
- Filling primer.
- Black glossy base.
- Ultra-gloss two-component automotive varnish.
- Chrome Effect paint (similar to Alclad 2 Chrome).
- One layer of Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss Varnish (26.650).
- Final layer of durable two-component automotive varnish.
- Wash based on black oil paint, thinned with white spirit to darken recesses and seams.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Man. Awesome pictures.
And that skull came out great. Nice realistic and authentic looking finish.
And that skull came out great. Nice realistic and authentic looking finish.
killuminati89
Active Member
Finally Because I can't wait and need a reference, which might not be a bad thing, I ordered an M1 copy from a site called Maco3d and hope it's good Terminator Endoskeleton Skull 1/1 Vinyl Model Kit Figure
Has anyone ever ordered something there?
Has anyone ever ordered something there?
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Sorry, don't know them, but they sound overly expensive for what they are offering. Looks like they even use the same pictures as the $45 Chinese or Thai eBay recast sellers.
I honestly don't know what you'll use it for as it will be grossly undersized. If they haven't shipped I would probably suggest you get a refund.
I honestly don't know what you'll use it for as it will be grossly undersized. If they haven't shipped I would probably suggest you get a refund.
DeltaDesignRus
Well-Known Member
Prepare yourself for the fact that the quality will be very mediocre, and the size will be approximately 80-85% of the original. I bought a similar one on eBay, but much cheaper. It can be brought to a good condition manually, but it will require a lot of effort. I recorded a video of unpacking such a set:
If you still won't mind buying it and are willing to spend months refining it (for this, you need modeling and casting skills, as well as puttying and painting), then I can give you some assembly advice:
- The skull is deformed due to thermal deformation, but you can heat it and change its shape. I heated it with hot water, stretched it, and then fixed the shape with cold water. Fine detailing doesn't suffer from this!
- Plasticized PVC plastic bonds excellently with super glue (cyanoacrylate).
- To cover some surface defects, you'll need automotive two-component polyether flexible putty for plastic. It strongly smells of styrene.
- I warn you that wiping PVC with acetone adversely affects sharp corners; acetone rounds them off!
- I found a way to restore sharpness to the corners that are heavily rounded in this kit (nose details, jaw cutouts). I searched for a suitable material with good adhesion to PVC and sufficient strength, trying out many materials. In general, there are plasticized super glues for shoes that contain not only cyanoacrylate but also colloidal silica, rubber. This super glue is flexible and capable of stretching, but it is too flexible and cannot be sanded. So I simply mix such glue with pure cyanoacrylate 50/50 by volume. Shoe super glue is a thick gel, and pure cyanoacrylate is liquid, but after solidifying, it becomes brittle. The mixture of these glues retains a slight flexibility but is excellently processed. It also has thixotropy and allows itself to be applied to vertical surfaces without flowing down. I apply it to the rounded parts, then sand it so that the angle becomes sharp, and it turns out great.
DeltaDesignRus
Well-Known Member
In my skull, I continue to make changes; to start, I cut out the ports, processed them with a cone printed on a 3D printer, and sanded them to the diameter I needed.
Next, to form smoother cylindrical openings in the eye sockets, I printed barrels on a 3D printer, heated the eye sockets with a soldering iron, and inserted these cylinders into them. When the PVC cooled down, I removed them, resulting in fairly smooth openings. And yes, I cut out the bottom of the openings several years ago, so I created supporting details based on my scan, into which the eyes are pressed, positioning them in the desired position.
To create a new CPU port, I modeled and printed a master model of the port cover, primed it, sanded it, inserted it into the skull opening, and sealed the gaps with wax. Then, using molding silicone, I made a mold for subsequent casting of the port inside the skull. The casting was done without degassing in a vacuum chamber, using two-component casting polyurethane inside the skull. It turned out quite well, but this is not the final step yet; further work with a drill will be needed to refine the openings even more precisely.
To make the rear port T1, I simply printed a cylindrical cup, which I glued into the skull before pouring polyurethane. As for the cover of the rear port itself, I temporarily modeled it to close the hole. Later, I will make a new cover when there is more information available about this part.
Next, to form smoother cylindrical openings in the eye sockets, I printed barrels on a 3D printer, heated the eye sockets with a soldering iron, and inserted these cylinders into them. When the PVC cooled down, I removed them, resulting in fairly smooth openings. And yes, I cut out the bottom of the openings several years ago, so I created supporting details based on my scan, into which the eyes are pressed, positioning them in the desired position.
To create a new CPU port, I modeled and printed a master model of the port cover, primed it, sanded it, inserted it into the skull opening, and sealed the gaps with wax. Then, using molding silicone, I made a mold for subsequent casting of the port inside the skull. The casting was done without degassing in a vacuum chamber, using two-component casting polyurethane inside the skull. It turned out quite well, but this is not the final step yet; further work with a drill will be needed to refine the openings even more precisely.
To make the rear port T1, I simply printed a cylindrical cup, which I glued into the skull before pouring polyurethane. As for the cover of the rear port itself, I temporarily modeled it to close the hole. Later, I will make a new cover when there is more information available about this part.
Honestly those Thai kits are smaller than 80-85% to an original . I would say they are closer to 75% to the M1 but the M1 is at least 10% smaller than the T1 skull I have. That thing is huge. This photo again. Or am I seeing things wrong? The Thai is disproportionately shrinking certain areas also.
Thai left M1 right.
M1 left My T1 right
Ben
Thai left M1 right.
M1 left My T1 right
Ben
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Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Yes, the face shrinks less than the top of the skull because of all the intricate shapes keeping things more in place. The top is more plain, so there is nothing there to really keep it in place, so it shrinks. When scaling up a M1 kit scan I received, I also had to do more scaling at the top of the skull than the face. It's not just one resize on one side fixes that side. It's different amounts at the width than the depth and the height... and on top of that... you need shape deformers doing more up on top to fix that extra shrinkage that gets more extreme to further away from the center you get - so not even shrinkage... again... uneven.
So the M1 isn't just evenly shrunk all-round. The majority of the general shrinking is around 10% of an original sized skull... but different parts of it has shrunk at different amounts. Face maybe 3-5%, top of the skull maybe 7-9%, jaw... maybe shrunk and pinched more towards the rear and maybe less than 1% out near the front.
A copy of a copy... will just have even more of that.
So the M1 isn't just evenly shrunk all-round. The majority of the general shrinking is around 10% of an original sized skull... but different parts of it has shrunk at different amounts. Face maybe 3-5%, top of the skull maybe 7-9%, jaw... maybe shrunk and pinched more towards the rear and maybe less than 1% out near the front.
A copy of a copy... will just have even more of that.
killuminati89
Active Member
Thanks for the answers, thanks for the tips and the pictures!!! I had already known most of the information beforehand, the reason why I ordered it from the site was because I wanted to know whether it was the Thai copy or the Chinese one…. The Thais and Chinese don't offer most of what the site offers, so I think it's a 1/1 copy or a better copie .
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
Some more pictures of the T2:3D attraction endoskeletons found on pinterest.
Hollywood:
Japan - You can really see the chrome turning seethrough and disappear in this picture - so whatever happened it ate away the chrome:
Hollywood:
Japan - You can really see the chrome turning seethrough and disappear in this picture - so whatever happened it ate away the chrome:
