Sterling rebuild advice

yodakiller1138

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've been trolling all the Sterling sights for info on building a dummy sterling from a kit and I'm as confused as ever. Everyone is inconsistant as usual and the BATTF changes what you have to do to make a legal dummy gun. Can any of our sterling experts clarify what i have to do to make a dummy gun and keep it within the law? :confused
 
I don't think there are any 'clear guides'. And a lot of it I think is left up to local/regional office staff and how uptight they want to be.

Assuming a steel dummy tube.

Usually it involves blocking the barrel/chamber and making sure its welded to the tube. From what I've seen the barrel is usually milled/drilled on the bottom and the rod welded the full length & welds dressed/sanded, care must be taken to control warping so you can slide it into the tube. Then good penetrating welds done at the front & rear barrel support areas so it can't be swapped out easily.

I've seen the original bolts minus firing pins as well as drilled/bored through with like a 3/8-1/2 inch hole. Usually there's got to be some sort of plug/way of preventing the removal of the demilled bolt. I've seen 3 things done in this regard.
1) drill the reciever tube on the top, magazine side, and bottom and plug weld the bolt in & dress welds
2) make a new stock hinge pivot out of solid round and weld/mount that so that the top of it blocks bolt removal
3) for a bolt that can be "pulled back". Insert bolt, install cocking handle/pull, install return spring, then fully weld in a 1/4 inch thick plug at the end of the tube. (some people say it being 'cockable' makes it illegal, never seen a definitive answer on this)

Some people mess w/ the trigger group (seer removed/modified) so the interanls aren't functional but the trigger can still be "pulled", I've seen reference that its just that some people don't mill the seer hole and mill the top 'catch' of the seer off so the trigger assembly will slide in. Read some people even epoxy/glue the deactivated trigger assembly in.

How people do the aluminum dummy tube's and attach the parts I'm not sure. I think this way it would largely be epoxied together & some concessions to the outer dimensions done.

Assuming its legal for you to have the kit in your state. Best advise would be contact the local ATF field office and get an ATF agent/officer to sign off on a plan of action. That way if its questioned as your doing the dummy build up or questioned later you have your rear covered with a 'signed' document from the ATF that would keep you out of charges/problems if the plan of action was followed. People reference an '80% done rule' for reciever sales, but I'm not sure I'd trust a judge to deciede '80%'
 
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I've been trolling all the Sterling sights for info on building a dummy sterling from a kit and I'm as confused as ever. Everyone is inconsistant as usual and the BATTF changes what you have to do to make a legal dummy gun. Can any of our sterling experts clarify what i have to do to make a dummy gun and keep it within the law? :confused

Where are the Sterling sites? I'm looking for the bolt, if you have any leads.

Thanks
 
As suggested the safest way is to detail in detail exactly what you plan to do to reassemble it... Send a copy to the BATF and have them approve or deny your plans...

Beyond that cheech did a good job of summing it up, what you want to do is make sure that if someone wants to make it fire a bullet ever again they will have to totally rebuild it, not simply file off a few easy welds and drop in functional parts...

Some of the most important things to do IMO, replace the barrel with a solid replica or weld the barrel shut with a rod placed in it... Second the barrel needs to be firmly attached and become one piece with the receiver (tube) it needs to be welded solid so it can't simply be popped out and replaced with a functional one... Second the bolt should be destroyed to some degree, at the very bare minimum the firing pin removed, but I would suggest further destruction to the face of it as well... It's hardened steel so it's not easy to destroy... Once the bolt is rendered destroyed, it should be placed in the tube and made permanent so it can't be removed and replaced, I would suggest a 1/4" steel plug at the end of the tube welded in place under the end cap, or weld the end cap on... But cosmetically the 1/4" steel plug in inside the end cap is easier... As for the trigger mechanism it can't hurt to remove functionality of that as well, and again weld it in place so it can be swapped out... Overkill will be your friend in this process...

People reference an '80% done rule' for reciever sales, but I'm not sure I'd trust a judge to deciede '80%'

Wise move as there is not such rule, the rule merely states "readily restored" that is all, lots of room for interpretation in those two words... In fact if you read this case, the court found that 8 hours of work in a properly equipped machine shop met the criteria of readily restored, scary...

http://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs.cmu.edu/user/wbardwel/public/nfalist/us_v_smith2.txt

But I believe the pivotal point of the above case was the fact that just the barrel was destroyed, no further destruction of the guns functionality was removed... Thus the reason IMO it's important to destroy the bolt mechanism and possibly the trigger mechanism making them nonfunctional as well as the barrel and also fixing all those parts in position with solid deep welds so that they could not be swapped out...
 
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Thanks guys!:) I think that answered most of my questions. I just needed clarification. The above steps were pretty much what I was planning on doing. The only thing I'm unsure of is the cocking lever action.
 
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