Start-up Tools

[Proper]

I'm pretty much a beginner at model building. I used to build some stuff back in high school. The last time I built something was about 25 years ago!

I was hoping to get some advise as to what a basic, bare-bones start up tool set might look like. All I have are an X-acto knife, a Xuron 2175 Maxi Shear Flush Cutter, a 5x magnifier fluorescent table lamp and tweezers. That's about it!

I don't intend on building anything huge so I need a good basic Dremel type tool kit that allows for very fine drilling, grinding, sanding and cutting. Which one do you guys recommend?

What else besides the obvious like CA glue, putty and spray cans of primer/paint (I don't have an airbrush/compressor set up and don't want to get that if I can avoid it)?

My first attempt will be the 1:350 DY-100 SS Botany Bay. I've been online researching working with resin kits.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[division 6]

For Resin kits wash them in warm water with a degreaser dish soap like Dawn.
Light sanding of parts before primer.
If the parts are big enough pin them together with a nail or metal rod or wire.
Also use the exacto to do some cross hatching at the glue joints so that the glue has something to hold on to.

Ca is normally used for resin but some use 5 min epoxy, I find it far more messy and doesn't always hold as well.

For filling gaps that are to large for putty or need detail re-sculpted use Magic Sculpt or Aves epoxy putties.

 

[Proper]

For Resin kits wash them in warm water with a degreaser dish soap like Dawn.
Light sanding of parts before primer.
If the parts are big enough pin them together with a nail or metal rod or wire.
Also use the exacto to do some cross hatching at the glue joints so that the glue has something to hold on to.

Ca is normally used for resin but some use 5 min epoxy, I find it far more messy and doesn't always hold as well.

Thanks! Which Dremel type tool kit would you recommend?

 

[crackerjazz]

Looks like you've got everything you need for basic scale model building. The Dremel Multipro Model 395 is nice (5000 to 35000 rpm variable). I don't use my Dremel Stylus as much now as it doesn't have enough torque for the kind of work I put it through but it's nice and light. Oh, and that 5x magnifier - do you have a link for that (or brand/model)? The one I use is probably 1.5x and I want something stronger.

 

[brandomack]

I use my set of these pretty often.

12pc WAX CARVING set HOBBY - CRAFT - ARTIST tools on eBay.ca (item 140494792769 end time 27-Mar-11 22:30:32 EDT)

and you'll definately need a 100 pack of blades.

and a couple rolls of Blue 3M tape.

 

[E Williams]

My preferred Dremel tool is the cordless Dremel Stylus:
Amazon.com: Dremel 1100-N/25 7.2-Volt Stylus Lithium-Ion Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with Docking Station: Home Improvement
It's always had more than enough power for working with resin. The only time I've really had an issue with it running out of juice in the middle of a project was when I used it for heavy work like engraving/polishing a Batman TV-style brass utility belt buckle. I really should have used the corded one for something like that...

Something I also find very useful, though mainly on styrene kits, are various assorted spring clamps. Variety packs of them can be found at most stores for fairly cheap. The tiny rubber-tipped all-metal spring clamps are fairly strong and are useful for holding styrene pieces squeezed together as the plastic welder sets. The weaker, cheapo plastic versions are sometimes good for holding parts together while epoxy cures. It is sometimes difficult to use clamps for this purpose with odd-shaped parts... masking tape or some sort of weighting often works better, and as mentioned above, some prefer using CA glue, in which case you won't have this problem.

Another clamp use is to act as a stand/gripper while painting. For larger pieces, you can drill a small hole into a hidden face of a resin part, insert a screw or toothpick to act as a handle while painting, then use the clamp to hold it as the paint dries (or just use a little block of wood with holes for the screw/toothpick stands). The Galaxy and Ambassador saucers here were suspended in the air by clamping onto the screw handle while drying:
Illustration of crude toothpick painting stands

Either way, they're cheap, and have a variety of uses (though perhaps moreso for prop building), so you can't go wrong with having a variety of sizes of clamps on hand.

 

[Proper]

Looks like you've got everything you need for basic scale model building. The Dremel Multipro Model 395 is nice (5000 to 35000 rpm variable). I don't use my Dremel Stylus as much now as it doesn't have enough torque for the kind of work I put it through but it's nice and light. Oh, and that 5x magnifier - do you have a link for that (or brand/model)? The one I use is probably 1.5x and I want something stronger.

Thanks! It appears that the Dremel you have is no longer available from Amazon, but the newer model is: Amazon.com: Dremel 300-1/24 300 Series Variable-Speed Rotary Tool Kit: Home Improvement


And here's the lamp that I have: Amazon.com: SE Table Magnifier Lamp - 5X - Fluorescent Light (White): Home Improvement

 

[division 6]

The Dremel I use of over 20 years old model #395
I'm not sure about the quality of them these days, some of my friends had picked up replacements for theirs about 10 years ago and they broke quickly so they started looking into other brands.
The newer Black and Decker and Ryobi tools are nice and have a good amount of torque.

I picked up a B&D for my mom to replace the Dremel I borrowed from her.

For the model hobbyist a cordless may be fine but won't last 5 minutes working on vac formed armor, so if you plan to get into props that require a lot of cutting and grinding I'd get something with a cord.

 

[robn1]

A Needle File Set is a must have, for resin or styrene plastic. If you get a corded Dremel, consider also getting a Speed Control. This allows you to slow it down considerably, to avoid melting styrene parts.

 

[Proper]

Thanks, everyone. Very helpful info!

 

[Proper]

The Dremel I use of over 20 years old model #395
I'm not sure about the quality of them these days, some of my friends had picked up replacements for theirs about 10 years ago and they broke quickly so they started looking into other brands.
The newer Black and Decker and Ryobi tools are nice and have a good amount of torque.

I picked up a B&D for my mom to replace the Dremel I borrowed from her.

For the model hobbyist a cordless may be fine but won't last 5 minutes working on vac formed armor, so if you plan to get into props that require a lot of cutting and grinding I'd get something with a cord.

I've been trying to research rotary tools (mainly from Amazon reviews) and have discovered a plethora of complaints about the newer Dremels on sale today. So, I think I'm leaning toward the corded Proxxon 38472 FBS 115/E Precision Rotary Tool at $80. Not cheap but supposedly should last a lot longer than a Dremel.

I might spring for the Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand to go with it in order to be able to drill perfectly straight holes and make straight cuts. Still not sure if that's necessary so I might put that off.

Does anybody have any experiences (good or bad) with Proxxons?

 

[tullfan81]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Bookmarked!

 

[Jediguy]

Well basic tool set up for me

- Corded dremel with snake head attachments a must
- An ex-acto knife
- Sandpaper (various grits)
- Dust free cloth!
- CA gap filling glue
- Gap filling glue
- 2 part epoxy
- Apoxie sculpt
- Needle files!
- Small hand files
- Masking tape
- Snippers!
- Tweezers
- Pin vise for drilling small holes by hand

- GOOD MUSIC

Hope this helps.

Btw I love my corded dremel. I have a cordless one but its crap!

 

[star-art]

Proxxon makes some of the best tools you can buy. Unlike just about everything else you can get these days, they are made in Germany rather than in China. These are quality tools being manufactured at a time when quality has become all but extinct.

Yes, they are pricey. But, with that said, things are being made so cheaply now that if you try to spend less you could be getting a piece of junk that might work for a short time but then has to be repaired or even thrown away. It's very frustrating trying to find good tools these days!

 

[aron42486]

What types of tools is everyone using for sanding and detailing bondo? I am currently using a handheld oscillating for my bulk sanding with many different grits. I use my corded dremel 4000 w/ snake attachment for detail work.

I'll see if I can find some online pictures of the bits that I use. Anyone willing to share what dremel bits they use for detailing bondo and resin? And also sharing what situations situations they use those bits for?

 

[aron42486]

View attachment 59663
The bit i use the most is the Chainsaw Sharpening bit. It is designed for grinding metal so it holds up well to resin and bondo. The length of the bit allows me to keep a relatively flat surface and the flat tip works well in corners.


View attachment 59661
For tiny details I've been using this Tapered Tile Cutting bit. I cant remember if it is diamond grit or tungsten carbide but it is very strong. It is the narrowest bit that I have found for carving thin lines. Easy part is cutting but the hard part is cutting a straight line. I still wish I could find something narrower.


View attachment 59662
To completely cut through a piece or to carve straight lines I use the good ol wheel grinder. Not good at cutting curved lines but will handle those straight-a-ways.

Anyone got any other bits that are good for certain tricks?