Star Wars ~ Luke's Saber

Wow, thanks all! I really appreciate the encouragement. :)


Here's a few more pics, just for the fun of it.

Back side, to show some "Used Future" wear and tear.
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Clamp lever sans rectangular washer.
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Bubble strip head on.
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These two are for thd9791 who asked about the bubble strip attachment.

Like so.
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And I think I've found the base for my display. It's an old katana stand I've had forever. You'll just have to imagine it with the old holes filled, upright supports for the saber, a plaque, and possibly (depending on my success in learning to mold acrylic) a clear cover.
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I haven't decided how to paint it yet, so I'm open to suggestions. ;)
 
Sweet build so far, there is just no getting sick of Star Wars. For the base you could always keep it dark, but cover the top part of it with a pillow like surface. You could choose the color of the fabric white, red, whatever, and then maybe just let the lightsaber lay there. Then make a shorter plexi-glass cover for it. This could be something a little different, display wise, than the average lightsaber stand. Just a thought, and again awesome build!
 
Organic Mechanic said:
You may call it Ep. IV, or A New Hope, but I still call it "Star Wars".
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If I could, I'd give you reputation points just for this. (y)thumbsup

As for your lightsaber, build on! As a Star Wars fan from day one, I can't imagine a better prop than a lightsaber hilt built from real parts. Since I can't afford to do that, I'll have to live vicariously through your thread. ;)
 
Ah thank you! let us know what you use for vertical supports on your stand? I'm still looking for some and how to attach them to a base

Great looking saber!
 
Minor Update here:

I finished the display while I am waiting for my grips to arrive.

I finished the katana stand with Rub 'N Buff "Silver Leaf" & "Patina" in the recesses.

Picked up a rather conveniently sized 1:64 18 Wheeler model display with mirrored base at Hobby Lobby for $4.99 (50% off register coupons RULE!).

I hand shaped the support from a block of Lucite. Polished it up & fixed it down with glue dots. Non-destructive if I ever decide to change things.
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Very happy with the results. Now I just need to have a plaque made. :cool:thumbsup
 
Thanks man. :cool

Also, I just got official permission from the boss lady to get a copy of the "A" style movie poster framed to go behind this display in the living room. w00t!
 
Your Graflex looks like it's in great condition and I'm going to steal your idea for the case when I finish my build. That looks perfect!

I'm new here and have been lurking in order to learn how to build my own Luke's Lightsaber from Star Wars (definitely the only proper name for the first movie). I have a question: I don't want to hijack anyone's thread, but should I post photos of my progress here, or should I start another thread for what is basically the same thing?
 
VFX Freak said:
Your Graflex looks like it's in great condition and I'm going to steal your idea for the case when I finish my build. That looks perfect!

I'm new here and have been lurking in order to learn how to build my own Luke's Lightsaber from Star Wars (definitely the only proper name for the first movie). I have a question: I don't want to hijack anyone's thread, but should I post photos of my progress here, or should I start another thread for what is basically the same thing?
Click to expand...

Thanks so much. Please feel free to "steal" the case design, I love to inspire folks. :D

I would recommend starting your own thread. It helps people find your build later, and keeps the conversation focused on the particular elements of/issues with your build. Can't wait to see it myself. :cool:thumbsup
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll start my own thread once a few more bits show up. I will mention this here for the person who asked about cleaning a vintage Graflex: Mine is an early vintage and there was significant corrosion on the inside of the clamp and here and there on the rest of the unit. I cleaned it using a product called ACF 50 made for the aviation industry. It's a penetrating lubricant that removes and prevents corrosion. It worked very well and I plan to leave a thin film on the nickel plating after it's assembled to protect it.

You can use mild detergent or isopropyl alcohol to clean the handle for gluing on the grips.

Thanks for your blessing on the display case, and good luck with the rest of your build. I look forward to following your progress.
 
That is really SWEET! I love the display case, can't wait to see a pic with the poster behind it. :thumbsup :)
 
I can see why they went for circuit boards later, this is an edge pressure fit, that could be pushed out easier than something slid into the clamp and pinched in there.
 
True, to an extent. But truthfully, unless that lever is released, the bubble strip is going nowhere! It's hard to explain, because it seems so arbitrary, but there is this sweet spot where you must remove the rectangular washer and screw the post in until the tip just protrudes from the other side of the clamp. The flash is then just loose enough in the clamp that you can turn the clamp back and forth. Then you slowly sand down the sides of the strip, a little bit at a time until you can just close the clamp on it. Gotta be careful though, if that threaded post is over stressed it will snap. You know when you've got it right because the whole assembly becomes rock solid. No wiggle, no spin, and those bubbles are never coming out...so long as that clamp is closed.

***Note: When I say be careful, I mean if it's hard to close the clamp, don't close it. It should be "firm", and no tighter.
 
***UPDATE***

My grips have finally arrived!

This saber "should" be done this weekend, and the plaque for the display should arrive any day.


Man....I've got butterflies! :lol
 
Organic Mechanic said:
True, to an extent. But truthfully, unless that lever is released, the bubble strip is going nowhere! It's hard to explain, because it seems so arbitrary, but there is this sweet spot where you must remove the rectangular washer and screw the post in until the tip just protrudes from the other side of the clamp. The flash is then just loose enough in the clamp that you can turn the clamp back and forth. Then you slowly sand down the sides of the strip, a little bit at a time until you can just close the clamp on it. Gotta be careful though, if that threaded post is over stressed it will snap. You know when you've got it right because the whole assembly becomes rock solid. No wiggle, no spin, and those bubbles are never coming out...so long as that clamp is closed.

***Note: When I say be careful, I mean if it's hard to close the clamp, don't close it. It should be "firm", and no tighter.
Click to expand...

VERY useful information, thank you! You're not crazy, that makes sense, though it took me a few min to picture it.
 
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