Star trek TMP phaser prop from scratch
- Thread starter Benjo
- Start date
Benjo
Well-Known Member
Thank you very muchThis is my absolute favorite phaser! You've done an amazing job here; I'm excited to see how your vac-formed parts turn out.
I think it's been debated many times here.
I agree the TMP/TWOK version could be in TNG and it actually is in the episode "yesterday's enterprise". The Dustbuster is a reminescence of that design and is my second absolute favorite.
ST III version might be the best TOS inspired phaser and is really far more Star Trek than the later bulky Assault Phaser.
Too bad the new Star Trek productions choosed agressive gun like designs firing like blasters instead of the sleek innovative and elegant designs that belong to Star Trek.
Benjo
Well-Known Member
I did my first trial today.
My vacuum forming installation is less than ideal but it did the job. My idea is to check how it turns out with my New bucks.
I have a few observations though:
- 2mm plastic sheets are maybe a bit thick. I think the screen props were made out of 1mm/1.5 mm plastic sheets.
- It's not as easy I thought, at least with the material I have.triming and assembly require lots of reajustments and I now how a better understanding on why the screen props are not all identical.
Here you can see what I have so far. It's still very rough but I'll post pictures of the progression
My vacuum forming installation is less than ideal but it did the job. My idea is to check how it turns out with my New bucks.
I have a few observations though:
- 2mm plastic sheets are maybe a bit thick. I think the screen props were made out of 1mm/1.5 mm plastic sheets.
- It's not as easy I thought, at least with the material I have.triming and assembly require lots of reajustments and I now how a better understanding on why the screen props are not all identical.
Here you can see what I have so far. It's still very rough but I'll post pictures of the progression
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Benjo
Well-Known Member
Just a few observations
Vacuum forming process tends to round the edges whatever the plastic sheet thickness you use.
My own model is very rounded. It made me reconsider how to put the parts together. I'm currently trying to build a TWOK phaser, taking inspiration on the Saavik/Jein Hero prop.It's still very rough for now.
I had to sand down the bottom of the handle to have the butt plate sitting flush. To keep the handle lenght approximately right and anticipate the butt plate assembly, I've weld scrap plastic to the bottom. That way I can screw the butt plate later on.
The emitter sloth turned out to be very rounded. Simply cutting the sloth looked a bit weird, so I choosed to remove the rounded excess by cutting the sloth wider than it should and then glued 1mm plastic sheet to have sharp edges. Currently, I've made it only on the lower half of the emitter sloth.
I really wonder if it wasn't done that way on some of the screen props.
Vacuum forming process tends to round the edges whatever the plastic sheet thickness you use.
My own model is very rounded. It made me reconsider how to put the parts together. I'm currently trying to build a TWOK phaser, taking inspiration on the Saavik/Jein Hero prop.It's still very rough for now.
I had to sand down the bottom of the handle to have the butt plate sitting flush. To keep the handle lenght approximately right and anticipate the butt plate assembly, I've weld scrap plastic to the bottom. That way I can screw the butt plate later on.
The emitter sloth turned out to be very rounded. Simply cutting the sloth looked a bit weird, so I choosed to remove the rounded excess by cutting the sloth wider than it should and then glued 1mm plastic sheet to have sharp edges. Currently, I've made it only on the lower half of the emitter sloth.
I really wonder if it wasn't done that way on some of the screen props.
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I went with Avignon blue metallic for my WOK Phaser builds.
It’s a great match to what I see with my eye on the originals, and very durable.
It’s a great match to what I see with my eye on the originals, and very durable.
Benjo
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your answer. It seems very close indeed. Ordering it in France is a bit expansive Unfortunately but I'm gonna keep searching.
First coat of primer done. Still need to fill some imperfections with putty but I have a better overview.
P1 is removable so I can put some electronics inside (but I'm a huge dummy with electronics unfortunately).
I'm not sure if it's my ideal representation of the prop but here it is. Next time I'll post pictures of the finished prop.
Benjo
Well-Known Member
A few pictures of the phaser in its current state, as I'm still waiting to receive the paint.
I'm planning to install guts in there, at least one led to have the emitter light. I have no idea how to build a circuitry but I'm trying to find a way to have chaser lights on the control pad.
P1 can be removable by sliding it off.
I'm planning to install guts in there, at least one led to have the emitter light. I have no idea how to build a circuitry but I'm trying to find a way to have chaser lights on the control pad.
P1 can be removable by sliding it off.
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Benjo
Well-Known Member
Ok, I'm almost done with that first try.
I went for the classical representation of the WOK phaser and took inspiration on the Saavik/Jein hero prop, wich the most documented iteration so far.
Not my favorite version to be honest, I hate that silly prismatic tape on the sides. I think it looks terrible in person.
I used Tamiya PS-49 to paint it up. Definitely not the ideal but that's the closest match I could get.
It's not made for such use, it's very thin, way too blue and easily scratch off but things got better with a satin clear coat. The whole color turned lighter and way more durable.
The emitter is made out of clear epoxy resin.
It lits up by pressing the trigger stud and I'm crazy about that as I can't stop playing with it.
I'll install chaser lights on the control pad later as I have to learn how to make such thing.
Unsurprinsingly the gun is pretty fragile and lightweight. The seam line is still visible on some areas and the overall shape is a bit wonky but I must say I'm pretty happy with it.
Let's say it's a step forward, for me, into the fascinating world of phaserology.
I went for the classical representation of the WOK phaser and took inspiration on the Saavik/Jein hero prop, wich the most documented iteration so far.
Not my favorite version to be honest, I hate that silly prismatic tape on the sides. I think it looks terrible in person.
I used Tamiya PS-49 to paint it up. Definitely not the ideal but that's the closest match I could get.
It's not made for such use, it's very thin, way too blue and easily scratch off but things got better with a satin clear coat. The whole color turned lighter and way more durable.
The emitter is made out of clear epoxy resin.
It lits up by pressing the trigger stud and I'm crazy about that as I can't stop playing with it.
I'll install chaser lights on the control pad later as I have to learn how to make such thing.
Unsurprinsingly the gun is pretty fragile and lightweight. The seam line is still visible on some areas and the overall shape is a bit wonky but I must say I'm pretty happy with it.
Let's say it's a step forward, for me, into the fascinating world of phaserology.
Benjo
Well-Known Member
Thank you so much !
Wonderful!!! Love that you went the extra mile and vacuum formed the shells.
The TMP/WOK version is my favorite of the movie phasers. Unlike most others I don’t care for the Trek 3 phaser.
The TMP/WOK version is my favorite of the movie phasers. Unlike most others I don’t care for the Trek 3 phaser.
Benjo
Well-Known Member
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Benjo
Well-Known Member
Question to phaser experts:
What do we know about how the TMP hero phaser worked?
I know that the emitter tip lits up by pressing the trigger. The control pad has 6 LEDs that seem to light up independently from each others. Each LEDs compartiment has two tiny hex screws attached to the control pad.
How did the LEDs light up? Where was the OFF/ON button(s?) ?
What do we know about how the TMP hero phaser worked?
I know that the emitter tip lits up by pressing the trigger. The control pad has 6 LEDs that seem to light up independently from each others. Each LEDs compartiment has two tiny hex screws attached to the control pad.
How did the LEDs light up? Where was the OFF/ON button(s?) ?
The Control Pad: The brass hex head screws on the control pad were actually tactile switches..touching the hex heads with one’s finger turned on / turned off the colored lights in the control pad. We have confirmation of the functionality of the hex heads as tactile switches from an owner of one of the Hero TMP Tricorders, who confirmed they had the same functionality on the Hero Tricorder. We also see Shatner activate one of the indicator lights on the control pad, when the TMP Hero Phaser appeared in WOK (when he calls for “Phasers on Stun”) by simply touching the control pad with his finger.
The Emitter: The emitter was likely a basic momentary switch and incandescent bulb setup.
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Here is a shot from the bottom, up.
It’s a bit “asymmetrical” with the left side having a slightly more rounded curvature than the right.
I never noticed that before.
It’s a bit “asymmetrical” with the left side having a slightly more rounded curvature than the right.
I never noticed that before.
Benjo
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much. That's a precious information for me.
