Star trek TMP phaser prop from scratch

This is my absolute favorite phaser! You've done an amazing job here; I'm excited to see how your vac-formed parts turn out. (y)
Thank you very much :)

The ST III phaser needed to be in TOS Movies, with this being in TNG.

Vidians get the dust busters and such.
I think it's been debated many times here.
I agree the TMP/TWOK version could be in TNG and it actually is in the episode "yesterday's enterprise". The Dustbuster is a reminescence of that design and is my second absolute favorite.
ST III version might be the best TOS inspired phaser and is really far more Star Trek than the later bulky Assault Phaser.
Too bad the new Star Trek productions choosed agressive gun like designs firing like blasters instead of the sleek innovative and elegant designs that belong to Star Trek.
 
I did my first trial today.
My vacuum forming installation is less than ideal but it did the job. My idea is to check how it turns out with my New bucks.

I have a few observations though:
- 2mm plastic sheets are maybe a bit thick. I think the screen props were made out of 1mm/1.5 mm plastic sheets.
- It's not as easy I thought, at least with the material I have.triming and assembly require lots of reajustments and I now how a better understanding on why the screen props are not all identical.

Here you can see what I have so far. It's still very rough but I'll post pictures of the progression

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Just a few observations

Vacuum forming process tends to round the edges whatever the plastic sheet thickness you use.

My own model is very rounded. It made me reconsider how to put the parts together. I'm currently trying to build a TWOK phaser, taking inspiration on the Saavik/Jein Hero prop.It's still very rough for now.

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I had to sand down the bottom of the handle to have the butt plate sitting flush. To keep the handle lenght approximately right and anticipate the butt plate assembly, I've weld scrap plastic to the bottom. That way I can screw the butt plate later on.

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The emitter sloth turned out to be very rounded. Simply cutting the sloth looked a bit weird, so I choosed to remove the rounded excess by cutting the sloth wider than it should and then glued 1mm plastic sheet to have sharp edges. Currently, I've made it only on the lower half of the emitter sloth.

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I really wonder if it wasn't done that way on some of the screen props.

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The emitter sloth turned out to be very rounded. Simply cutting the sloth looked a bit weird, so I choosed to remove the rounded excess by cutting the sloth wider than it should and then glued 1mm plastic sheet to have sharp edges. Currently, I've made it only on the lower half of the emitter sloth.

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I really wonder if it wasn't done that way on some of the screen props.

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Looks great!

Yep—the way that you have done the emitter is accurate to the originals.
 
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Question to phaser experts and everyone able to answer:
Dupli-color Avignon blue metallic is the only available reference I have found to match the TWOK phaser paint color.
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What about the Tamiya PS-49?
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I went with Avignon blue metallic for my WOK Phaser builds.

It’s a great match to what I see with my eye on the originals, and very durable.
 
I went with Avignon blue metallic for my WOK Phaser builds.

It’s a great match to what I see with my eye on the originals, and very durable.
Thank you for your answer. It seems very close indeed. Ordering it in France is a bit expansive Unfortunately but I'm gonna keep searching.

First coat of primer done. Still need to fill some imperfections with putty but I have a better overview.
P1 is removable so I can put some electronics inside (but I'm a huge dummy with electronics unfortunately).
I'm not sure if it's my ideal representation of the prop but here it is. Next time I'll post pictures of the finished prop.
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A few pictures of the phaser in its current state, as I'm still waiting to receive the paint.

I'm planning to install guts in there, at least one led to have the emitter light. I have no idea how to build a circuitry but I'm trying to find a way to have chaser lights on the control pad.
P1 can be removable by sliding it off.

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