Star Trek ENTERPRISE - PADD ( 3D printed, close approximation), plus

[propmaster2000]

A few weeks ago, I began watching Enterprise.
.
When it first came out, for some reason I never put much effort into watching the entire series clear though but managed
to get around to making my own pop-up scanner, modified the Phase Pistol and purchased one of the Cabin lighted viewing
box's to make a PADD.
I did however put most my effort into watching ST:NG and Voyager and a little DS9.
.
Now that a few years have passed there is virtually no new Star Trek, but FIRETV however has given me a chance to watch the entire ENTERPRISE
series from Season one through to the end and it is like having new Star Trek TV again. .
I must admit, I'm really liking the show. So much so, that I am going to use my new found knowledge of 3D printing and equipment to print me my own version of a few of the props.
I am always looking for things to design and print, so I have chosen the PADD, since the Cabin lighted viewing box is getting harder to find and much more expensive these days to purchase on eBay.
.
I can know longer find my original PADD made from the light box, so I do not have a way to get true measurements or design parameters to
make it very accurate, so it will be more of a "prop approximation" at this point.
I did some internet searching and did not find any 3D printed versions at all of this ENTERPRISE PADD....not even on Thingiverse.
However, there are a few made from scratch using styrene, but no 3D printed Enterprise PADD's at all.
So, I thought I would be the first (as far as I know) to give it a shot.
It is designed with a front and back body "notch" that joins together with a slight gap between.
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I will be giving it with my own "flare" and most likely won't have a few of the details of the original.
I only had black PLA on hand, so it was printed in black and will be painted when I get my final design nailed down.
It has a 4" x 5" screen and the rest was designed around that from pictures on the net.
Here are a couple images of what I have so far in the last few days:
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Not sure how accurate I am going to create it though or if I should add the battery compartment and the 4 screw holes on the back....?
I do however still have to print the front 2 buttons, add the clear half round camera thingy and the slide power switch.
The 4 "half rounds" on the back are actually pushed in from the inside then glued which gives the impression that they
are molded in to the back.
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[propmaster2000]

My intentions are to add a lighted screen, but if I can find a small enough electronic memo style pad I may
consider that.
ASUS at one point had a 7" screen, but may still be larger then the PADD body.
.
I know cell phones are getting pretty thin, with a small footprint, but having to active it could be an issue.
I know if a cell phone isn't activated, it can still be used as a stand alone device with what ever features are
installed. Music player, camera, picture storage, memo device, etc.
If I add a battery door on the back, it will only be for looks and not functional since the PADD will have a rechargeable
battery in any case.
Still doing research.

 

[Kal Argos]

This is looking great... as usual. I'll be following.... and i got my 3D printer fixed... so Ill be following with great interest.

 

[propmaster2000]

I decided to add a door, since the real one has it.
This will most likely be my next long'ish print...
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[Lt Washburn]

Very nice. I have a couple of these handy if you want any measurements.

 

[propmaster2000]

I finally got around to actually printing the Enterprise PADD as I have it rendered.
As shown, the 4 back "rail details" are printed separately to achieve a much cleaner print and
then glued into place.
.

 

[Lt Washburn]

Nice. Did you see the private message I sent you?

 

[renaissance_man]

To get a cleaner finish on the ribs you could use Plastruct or Evergreen half round rod in 6mm diameter lengths, that's what they used to detail the Cabin Light Panels in the prop department.

 

[renaissance_man]

Looking great.

You could also add a slight fillet to the edges to give them a slight rounding to make your model closer to the prop.

As a fellow Enterprise fan I have a couple of props coming soon that you will likely be interested in!

 

[propmaster2000]

When I modified my Cabin Light box many years ago, I too used the half round rods for the ribs.
There was some issue for me doing it that way however, which I didn't want to deal with on this version.
It wasn't that it was a challenge to add them, I just wanted to avoid the hassle.
Such as cutting them to the exact size, rounding out the tips evenly, gluing them on the back at the correct
location, making sure they were straight and evenly spaced properly apart, no apparent glue being used to hold them
and not having them come loose in the future, etc.
.
Doing it the way I did here makes it easier on me since the printer did most the work.
All I had to do was put them in the slots from the inside, glue and paint
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To get the slightly rounded body edge, I will just take a sanding block and round them out slightly.
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I am not really going for an exact replica with exact measurement and style, I just wanted to get it to the point it is recognizable,
while looking at it from a distance with a slight squint, in a dimly lit room, hoping on one foot, etc.
I guess you could say "CosPlay Quality" (CQ).
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Back around the same time I did my Cabin Light Version, I made a Pop-Up Scanner as well from scratch using cut styrene.
It too is not exact. I used my own flare to design and build it, as with this PADD.
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Here is a quick video of my version of the Enterprise scanner.
When I get the chance, I may also 3D print the various parts of this scanner as well.
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[propmaster2000]

One of the biggest concerns I have always had as a prop maker is getting a good paint finish on hand props.
When I lived in an area with dry, warm climate I had no issues with the humidity so the paint would dry very
even with a slight sheen to the surface.
Now, I am having to wait days and for the best time in the day to paint.
.
Even while painting indoors with a small paint booth doesn't allow for the paint to dry evenly and sometimes leaves dull
spots which need attention to correct.
And today was no different. I have so much to do most the time, I needed to get the PADD painted with what
paint I had on hand, I couldn't wait for a better time to do it.
.
So I rough sanded the PLA body, primed and painted.
Again as expected, the paint dried very rough and with a few dull areas.
Since this prop was not going to be a "finished HERO example" (with all the bells and whistles), I wasn't too concerned about
putting a lot of time in to the pre-paint finish and applied the paint I had.
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I have a few more prints to do with the buttons and add the "camera thingy", decals, back light for the screen and switch to power it off.
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It's not collector, show quality, but for a basic hand prop for role playing at the con., it's a little better then duct tape and cardboard and
won't cost an arm and a leg to get the look of the original Cabin Light Viewer body.
.

 

[Kal Argos]

One of the biggest concerns I have always had as a prop maker is getting a good paint finish on hand props.
When I lived in an area with dry, warm climate I had no issues with the humidity so the paint would dry very
even with a slight sheen to the surface.
Now, I am having to wait days and for the best time in the day to paint.
Even painting indoors with a small paint booth doesn't allow for the paint to dry evenly and sometimes leaves dull
spots which need attention to fix.
And today was no different. I have so much to do most the time and I needed to get the PADD painted with what
paint I have on hand and I couldn't wait for a better time to do it. So I rough sanded the PLA, primed and painted.
Again as expected, the paint dried very rough and with a few dull areas.
Since this prop was not going to be a "completed example" with all the bells and whistles, I wasn't too concerned about
putting allot of time in to the pre-paint finish and applied the paint I had.
.
View attachment 1026720
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View attachment 1026722
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View attachment 1026723
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I have a few more prints to do on the buttons and add the "camera thingy", decals, back light for the screen and switch to power it off.
.
It's not collector, show quality, but for a basic hand prop for role playing at the con., it's a little better then duct tape and cardboard and
won't cost an arm and a leg to get the Cabin Light Viewer body.
.

I think this looks great. This is very well done as usual. What was your paint color and type?

 

[propmaster2000]

Thanks for the kudos
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The paint Color and Type is:
SEM 15253 Titanium Metallic Color Coat - 12 oz.
Automotive Paint.
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I still have a ways to go, but I think it is coming along nicely.
.

 

[propmaster2000]

I wanted to give my PADD a little functionality but didn't want to spend a lot of time or expense doing it.
Many years ago I purchased an ENvue photo viewer and thought I would see if I could incorporate it in to
the PADD.
It seems that it will fit, but I will have to make the face a bit different then the actual prop.
I could possibly design the entire "screen portion" to have the photo play back screen above some simulated touch
pad buttons to fill the opening to maintain the look of the real deal.
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[Lt Washburn]

That could work. But I'd be surprised if you couldn't locate a very cheap touchscreen tablet, used, that would fit inside the PADD shell, if you remove the one it came in.

 

[xl97]

Perhaps look for a TFT screen that fits your needs (size).. and looking into using one of the Raspberry Pi boards to drive it?

What size is the viewport of the printed object?

 

[Crewman 6]

Wow. Awesome work. My first 3D of this PADD only has a blinking light.
thingiverse.com/thing:3871869
…. Back to the drawing board!
Great job!