Re: Star Lord's Helmet, with screen used lineage.
I'm in for this Materializing Version with the Two faceplates.
I'm in for this Materializing Version with the Two faceplates.
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Limited Run Star Lord's Helmet, accurate with screen used lineage.
- Thread starter JOATRASH FX
- Start date
Re: Star Lord's Helmet, with screen used lineage.
Not as mush as with most other prints like this, done on a machine that isn't a huge industrial type. Folks are usually surprised at how smooth most parts are. You don't need any of that "XTC" resin or acetone to smooth them but I strongly recommend using a few coats filler-primer instead of regular primer. The plastic I use IS sandable, compared to the white nylon that places like Sh*peways use. (Model details such as panel lines have been made with this in mind so that they are not lost.) I print slowly at 60-100 microns on what is arguably the best machine of this type (FDM) whereas these types of print are usually done at 200 microns.
Here's a post in another of my runs that shows some closeup images of typical surface quality:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=275582&p=4243883&viewfull=1#post4243883
Also see the "build tips" in the first post of this thread.
Not as mush as with most other prints like this, done on a machine that isn't a huge industrial type. Folks are usually surprised at how smooth most parts are. You don't need any of that "XTC" resin or acetone to smooth them but I strongly recommend using a few coats filler-primer instead of regular primer. The plastic I use IS sandable, compared to the white nylon that places like Sh*peways use. (Model details such as panel lines have been made with this in mind so that they are not lost.) I print slowly at 60-100 microns on what is arguably the best machine of this type (FDM) whereas these types of print are usually done at 200 microns.
Here's a post in another of my runs that shows some closeup images of typical surface quality:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=275582&p=4243883&viewfull=1#post4243883
Also see the "build tips" in the first post of this thread.
PM incoming.
These are made on-demand and currently have at least a 2-4 week manufacture time due to my current workload and I have several kits in line, so that would not be possible. Apologies, I wish I could help but there's no way to rush one out that fast unless I farmed out the print to someone else but then the cost would skyrocket.
PM sent!
I wonder if an Indiana Star Lord mashup costume would be a good idea? Hmm.... naah. Worlds would collide!
For those asking about size, I have about a 22" head and it fits me great with some padding all around. I get asked a lot if it will fit a 24" and I say that it could, depending on how your head is shaped. There's plenty of front-to-back space and around 6.5" inside between the "ears". If that is too little, some more material COULD be dremeled out OR I might be able to offer a slightly scaled-up version. Keep in mind that this isn't supposed to be big like a helmet, but snug like a facemask. The inside is shaped so that a normally proportioned face will be very close to the shell walls. (This also keeps your eyes closer to the eye sockets, which makes seeing out a lot easier!)
Re: Star Lord's Helmet, with screen used lineage.
A bit of a late response to this, but I am coming up on the paint ting stage- care to share the paints and colors you used, or did you follow the recommendations from page one?
A bit of a late response to this, but I am coming up on the paint ting stage- care to share the paints and colors you used, or did you follow the recommendations from page one?
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Re: Star Lord's Helmet, with screen used lineage.
I haven't read the recommendations so I am not sure if our methods were the same.
I used Duplicolor Gun Metal metallic, Duplicolor Gold Metallic, and Alumaluster for the chrome.
The trick to the gun metal is to vary the tone, I'd did a silver base, speckled a darker metallic, and then did the Duplicolor Gun Metal lightly. I also used some pink, purple, and blue copic inks airbrushed here and there for a very "Alien" metal feel.
Mottled over the Duplicolor Gold with Alclad Polished Brass. Weathering was acrylics.
Hope this helps, best of luck!
I haven't read the recommendations so I am not sure if our methods were the same.
I used Duplicolor Gun Metal metallic, Duplicolor Gold Metallic, and Alumaluster for the chrome.
The trick to the gun metal is to vary the tone, I'd did a silver base, speckled a darker metallic, and then did the Duplicolor Gun Metal lightly. I also used some pink, purple, and blue copic inks airbrushed here and there for a very "Alien" metal feel.
Mottled over the Duplicolor Gold with Alclad Polished Brass. Weathering was acrylics.
Hope this helps, best of luck!
Re: Star Lord's Helmet, with screen used lineage.
You are welcome to, when you're ready!
Sounds like a good method as well. The good thing about this helmet is that the gold and gunmetal can be achieved with a number of different makes. It's the chrome that poses a larger challenge. I've heard good things about Alumaluster but we can't easily get it here in Europe, so I tend to use Alclad. (I've also heard that "House of Kolor" auto paints does a good chrome so I might be trying that in the near future because you can get their stuff worldwide.
You are welcome to, when you're ready!
Sounds like a good method as well. The good thing about this helmet is that the gold and gunmetal can be achieved with a number of different makes. It's the chrome that poses a larger challenge. I've heard good things about Alumaluster but we can't easily get it here in Europe, so I tend to use Alclad. (I've also heard that "House of Kolor" auto paints does a good chrome so I might be trying that in the near future because you can get their stuff worldwide.
As I recall, I something odd happened when I went higher there, but it's been years since I modeled it so I don't remember exactly. It might've been something with the overall poly-count being borderline what the 3d slicer (that preps the print) could handle because of the resolution in other areas. The slicer has had a couple updates since then, so maybe I can go in and raise the overall count.
I just never thought of it as an issue; taking off those shallow angle-lines should go pretty quickly using wet-sandpaper (120 grit and upwards- don't start with 400) and a good covering of filler-primer. (I always recommend spray filler-primer over regular primer. All the models I do are done with that in mind, which is why I often make things like panel lines deeper so that they can take several layers if desired without filling in.) : )
**edit**
OK, I went in and looked at the mesh. I had forgotten how complex it was getting it to follow the screen reference I had. It's a little hard to explain simply, but technically, the geometry around that cheek plate touches on so many different points that it's not simply a question of "adding polygons" because doing so can mess up a lot of surrounding parts. However, I've done a little tweaking that should make those angles smoother going forward. But to reiterate, I never saw it as an issue since I didn't find it hard to deal with myself.**
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Bumperoo. I'm currently printing both open and closed-face versions. Also ordering a new supply of metal tubes and braids.
Same as the regular kit! $330 shipped, add $100 if you want closed faceplates as well. (I can make those later for you too if you decide you want them.) The open face takes almost as long as the regular version, plus there's some extra time needed to clean when switching plastics and such.
Depending on how intense the interest is for open-face versions of the helmet in the coming weeks, they may take longer produce. I'm almost out of my current supply of blue plastic and I may not order more right away. (I'll still offer them though, they are not being discontinued.)
dontfeedmyego
Sr Member
Screws
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