Smooth-On resin? Need some help/info
- Thread starter Jawafive
- Start date
300, 305, and 325 are all my stand-bys. 1:1 mixes, bright white (325 is a hazy clear, awesome for coloring)
Just be sure to wear a good mask or respirator, cause thus stuff can build up in your system pretty bad over time.
Just be sure to wear a good mask or respirator, cause thus stuff can build up in your system pretty bad over time.
Skaught
Sr Member
Really? Huh...better not take advice from me then. :sick
Not much too the stuff. Just mix up equal parts, pour it in, and come back in 10 minutes. With slush casting, I pour twice so it's easier to manage. Too much and the weight of it stops to glop around inside the mold before it sets, resulting in an uneven interior. I wait until the first pour stops moving, but before it's completely set, then pour in the next layer. The second pout seems to cure faster, whether from the heat of the curing first pour or because the chemical reaction in the first pour affects the second, or both, I don't know. But since the second pour is just adding thickness, the quicker the better.
Scott
LeMarchand
Sr Member
I use 300 for smaller casts as it kicks fairly fast and 305 for bigger molds. Make sure you stir/shake part B wel before mixing. Not stirring part B properly before adding a+b together can reult in uncuring resin that will kill your mold (trust me, i have been there)
If you don't have the option to degass your resin prior to casting or do pressure casting and you decide to use 305 or 310. Shake can B firmly and let it be for 30-45 minutes. You will then have a good part B and most of the bubbles that have been introduced into it will have risen to the surface.
Personally i love this resin.
Cheers,
Marc
If you don't have the option to degass your resin prior to casting or do pressure casting and you decide to use 305 or 310. Shake can B firmly and let it be for 30-45 minutes. You will then have a good part B and most of the bubbles that have been introduced into it will have risen to the surface.
Personally i love this resin.
Cheers,
Marc
for slush casts i always use smoothcast roto. the 3xx series is too brittle for my tastes. i've dropped roto helmets onto concrete and at worst had a minor chip, usually nothing.
solid stuff i usually end up using roto as well, since i have it. i can toss, say, a firefly message recorder across the room without damage
solid stuff i usually end up using roto as well, since i have it. i can toss, say, a firefly message recorder across the room without damage
LeMarchand
Sr Member
Is the smooth-on resin good for regular casting too? How does it compare to their 'Task' series?
Kwally89
Well-Known Member
for slush casts i always use smoothcast roto. the 3xx series is too brittle for my tastes. i've dropped roto helmets onto concrete and at worst had a minor chip, usually nothing.
solid stuff i usually end up using roto as well, since i have it. i can toss, say, a firefly message recorder across the room without damage
A lot of people use smoothcast 300 for slush casting, but I have always loved smoothcast roto. It is VERY easy to work with and you can pull great casts with little effort. If you are looking to do solid pieces, I like smooth-cast 325. It has a short pot life, but you can demold the casts in around 10 minutes.
is it for what I think it is, LOL???
You can use Smooth Cast 320 as a surface coat for Roto resin castings. I've done that before with great success. Just dont waste time between layers so everything adheres. Didnt have delamination, or any problems.
The resin why I did that was to create a bit of a harder surface, which still allowed a great deal of flex. Normally, for me the surface of roto pieces are too soft, as the resin cures softer than what you might be used to.
Tyler
The resin why I did that was to create a bit of a harder surface, which still allowed a great deal of flex. Normally, for me the surface of roto pieces are too soft, as the resin cures softer than what you might be used to.
Tyler
Jawafive
Sr Member
Both of you want the same thing:lol
I'm workin' on it I promise.
Thanks Tyler for that info!
fettster
Sr Member
If your thinking what Im thinking then Matt is thinking he thinks he knows what we are thinking. I think :confused
Yodajammies
Sr Member
Not to thread-jack but, I've had a lot of experience with smoothcast300 and found it to be a bit brittle. Does smooth on offer a product with properties closer to that of a frisbee? A lower durometer rating?
Jawafive
Sr Member
CSMacLaren
Sr Member
How workable is the roto material? If you have to cut out, say, eye slots, does the material sand well or does it remain squeaky, rigid and intolerant to any modification?
Also, how heat resistant is it, or will things start to "melt" if worn too long out under the sun?
Also, how heat resistant is it, or will things start to "melt" if worn too long out under the sun?
