Sewing Basics - Sewing Machines

[MaulWalker]

Arise from the dead, dear thread.

There is a costume I am interested in and it looks like the only way I am going to get it is by sewing it. I will probably only use the machine once or twice a year so I do not want to spend a lot of money, but I do not want a piece of plastic junk either. I am going to go the a local sewing store and look around. They are a Bernina (way out of my budget) and Janome dealer. They have the Janome 2212 that I am thinking about. The reviews are all good. The only cons are that it does not have as many features as other machines. Does that sound like a reasonable machine for someone who will do very occasional sewing and has not used a machine since the 70's? I am also going to check to see if they have trade ins and maybe hit the Goodwill store too.

The Janome 2212 has all the basic features you need and looks like a good entry level machine. You may also want to check Ebay or Craigslist for used machines. An old Singer or Kenmore from the 70s or 80s are typically good machines as well.

 

[MaulWalker]

Is there a good all around machine that can handle standard fabrics as well as leather/vinyl/heavy duty fabric? Where I work I have access to scrap vinyl, nose cover (Car bra material) and convertible top material which I have used for many projects around the house and would like to be able hem them or possible make some curtains for the garage etc.

What I can suggest is take some of the fabric you want to sew, such as nose cover, and go to a sewing machine shop. Show them what you want to sew and try the fabrics on the machines. A medium range machine can sew a couple of layers of marine vinyl - I've done it. However, once I got beyond about three layers, my home machine could not drive the needle though the layers.

I know some people who have those old-fashioned cast iron sewing machines (Singers) and they keep them around just for sewing leather and vinyl. They sew through those materials like butter.

 

[MaulWalker]

What is the method used to sew all those full body suits like spider man etc?

Most every machine (except old ones) have a stretch stitch that is designed for spandex/lycra/etc. You can fake it on the old machines by using a very narrow zig-zag.

 

[NormanF]

The Janome 2212 has all the basic features you need and looks like a good entry level machine. You may also want to check Ebay or Craigslist for used machines. An old Singer or Kenmore from the 70s or 80s are typically good machines as well.

I think I might pull the trigger on the 2212. Not as cheap as Amazon, but they include some free lessons and I know they can handle any warranty claims right there. I did like where they were suggesting the $400 machine before I asked about the 2212.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch

 

[NormanF]

I think they had a Janome HD1000 there for $299. Now I think I will get that if they do. Maybe even for $399. The thing is actually made out of, wait for it: metal. And earlier today I saw a video of one sewing through 12 layers of denim.

Now I need to find a girlfriend who is also a little interested in costuming. Not that I am that into it.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch

 

[MaulWalker]

Metal is good; along with a strong motor. Many of the cheapie machines have plastic parts and undersized motors.

 

[NormanF]

Ended up with the DC1050. I did some playing around with it when I got it home. It has a lot of stitches I will probably never use, but so far I really like it. I also like that I saw a video of a guy sewing 9 layers of denim and then a very thin piece of plastic film with one.

 

[MaulWalker]

Congratulations! It looks like a nice machine.

 

[Wallabe]

11B30B4, what needle/thread would you recommend for sewing 2-3 layers of nylon webbing together?

 

[MaulWalker]

11B30B4, what needle/thread would you recommend for sewing 2-3 layers of nylon webbing together?

You will need a large needle: 90/14 - 100/16. You may also find a needle designated for jeans or denim. You will also need a thick thread. Look for polyester thread designed for top stitching.

Lynn

 

[tictoc]

Ok.

Got the back "tying" stitch down. That was a neat trick to keep things from unraveling. I can do straight (sort of) lines and curves if I mark the line with white crayon or (white) colored pencil and use pins.

A question, if you have a moment.

So, I need to alter a short sleeve shirt so it looks more fitted. (It is a wool/poly mix button down uniform shirt) I can taper in the sides of the trunk of the shirt by cheating and leaving the original seam hidden inside. I can do this for the sleeve too. I'm good at cheating.

The arm pit ?? Help. If I try my cheat, the fabric bunches up but I am afraid to rip the seam open. Do I have to remove the WHOLE sleeve or is there a way I can cheat?

Thanks for all the great tips!

 

[lsgheero]

Hey maulwalker... any thoughts on a
Singer White Classic 312


I can get one for about $35 through a friend... I don't currently do much sewing just looking to add velcro to a few thin pieces of latex right now.

 

[MaulWalker]

Ok.

Got the back "tying" stitch down. That was a neat trick to keep things from unraveling. I can do straight (sort of) lines and curves if I mark the line with white crayon or (white) colored pencil and use pins.

A question, if you have a moment.

So, I need to alter a short sleeve shirt so it looks more fitted. (It is a wool/poly mix button down uniform shirt) I can taper in the sides of the trunk of the shirt by cheating and leaving the original seam hidden inside. I can do this for the sleeve too. I'm good at cheating.

The arm pit ?? Help. If I try my cheat, the fabric bunches up but I am afraid to rip the seam open. Do I have to remove the WHOLE sleeve or is there a way I can cheat?

Thanks for all the great tips!

What I have done in this case is create one long seam that goes from the body, through the armhole, and then the sleeve. Start with basting stitches until you figure out how much fabric you want to remove, then do the final stitch with 10 - 12 stitches per inch. Then you need to remove the bulk - trim the seam allowance including the previous finished seam. You may want to zig-zag the raw edges.

 

[MaulWalker]

Hey maulwalker... any thoughts on a
Singer White Classic 312


I can get one for about $35 through a friend... I don't currently do much sewing just looking to add velcro to a few thin pieces of latex right now.

I'm not familiar with that machine. A quick look on Google showed one that went for about that price on Ebay. Seems fair for a low end machine.