PotionMistress
Sr Member
Wow, this is a plethora of sewing machine info...thanks so much MaulWalker and others!
Sewing Basics - Sewing Machines
- Thread starter MaulWalker
- Start date
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Sewing Machines - Foot Controller
Many years ago there was a perhaps apocryphal story of a woman who contacted Dell's PC support because she couldn't get her PC to work. She was pressing on the foot pedal but nothing was happening. Those of us who sew "got" what was going on immediately - she had placed her mouse on the floor and pressing on it like the foot controller on a sewing machine.
The foot controller works just like the accelerator on your car. The harder you press on the controller, the faster the machine runs. Your machine may have a switch that allows you to further control the speed.
I learned to sew on a machine with a knee lever. I was quite dissappointed to discover that the foot controller fit into a retaining device on the side of the cabinet and the lever pressed on the controller.
No matter what machine I have sewn on, I find that the foot controller tends to move around on the floor over time and you have to readjust its location. Has anyone used one of those mats sold in the fabric stores that are supposed to stop this?
Lynn
Many years ago there was a perhaps apocryphal story of a woman who contacted Dell's PC support because she couldn't get her PC to work. She was pressing on the foot pedal but nothing was happening. Those of us who sew "got" what was going on immediately - she had placed her mouse on the floor and pressing on it like the foot controller on a sewing machine.
The foot controller works just like the accelerator on your car. The harder you press on the controller, the faster the machine runs. Your machine may have a switch that allows you to further control the speed.
I learned to sew on a machine with a knee lever. I was quite dissappointed to discover that the foot controller fit into a retaining device on the side of the cabinet and the lever pressed on the controller.
No matter what machine I have sewn on, I find that the foot controller tends to move around on the floor over time and you have to readjust its location. Has anyone used one of those mats sold in the fabric stores that are supposed to stop this?
Lynn
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Sewing Machines - Thread
I am including thread in the sewing machine post as a machine isn’t much good unless it has thread in it. To put it in terms you prop builders may be more familiar with, the thread is your glue and the machine is your glue gun.
When you go to the fabric store, you are confronted with all sorts of thread. Much of the thread is for specialized applications such as machine embroidery or quilting.
What you want for general sewing is Dual Duty or All Purpose thread. This is polyester covered polyester or cotton covered polyester. Coats & Clark is probably the most widely known brand.
How Much Thread Do You Need?
You will need more thread than you think; there is nothing worse than running out of thread after the fabric store is closed and you have to meet a deadline. Typically, there are three different sized spools – small (135 yards), large (250 yards), and “giant” (500 yards.) Most projects are going to require at least a couple of the large spools. I don’t know why manufacturers sell the small size; they are really only good for tiny projects or mending clothes.
What Color Thread?
Most times, you want your thread to match your fabric as closely as possible. In order to achieve this, you need to find a thread color that is one shade darker than your fabric. (If your fabric is multicolor, use the dominant color.) Once the thread is stitched into the material, it will blend in.
You will find the widest color selection in the large spool size. The small spools tend to have a subset of the large spool colors. The giant spools tend to be the basic colors – black, white, navy, red, etc. If you are going to do much sewing, you will find you can always use black and white and it is worth buying the large spools.
Anytime you want your thread to contrast with the fabric, such as that orange-gold top stitching on a pair of jeans, just find your desired thread color.
Other Thread Considerations
Thread has gotten expensive! Watch the fabric store fliers for 50% off sales on thread and stock up. However, stay far away from that bin of “3 spools for $X.XX.” Cheap thread is not worth the money – it breaks frequently and you will spend more time re-threading your machine and rebalancing the thread tension than it is worth.
Another way to save is to hit up yard sales and estate sales. Buy up old thread and use it to make mock-ups of garments or baste things together. My dad hit the jackpot and found a home decorator shop that was going out of business and they gave him their thread. He passed it on to me. I could now make an entire chorus of Kermit the Frogs because most of it is strange shades of green, but the price was right!
If you do buy thread on old spools, you need to load the spool correctly on your machine. Old spools of thread have a gash cut into the spool itself to hold the end of the thread. If your thread runs over the gash when you are sewing, it can break the thread. So, if your thread holder is vertical, you need to position your spool so the gash is at the bottom. If your thread holder is horizontal, you need to position the gash to the right.
Your machine may have spool caps. These are plastic disks with a center hole that hold the spool of thread on the thread holder. You need to match your spool cap to the size of your spool. A spool cap that is too large can affect the thread tension.
Serger thread typically comes on cones. I noticed that there doesn’t seem to be the same wide color range for serger thread. However, you should still try to match the thread closely to the color of your material. I never will forget my first time at Dragon*Con and seeing a Jedi in a dark brown robe that had been serged with white thread. Probably not the statement he wanted to make.
Lynn
I am including thread in the sewing machine post as a machine isn’t much good unless it has thread in it. To put it in terms you prop builders may be more familiar with, the thread is your glue and the machine is your glue gun.
When you go to the fabric store, you are confronted with all sorts of thread. Much of the thread is for specialized applications such as machine embroidery or quilting.
What you want for general sewing is Dual Duty or All Purpose thread. This is polyester covered polyester or cotton covered polyester. Coats & Clark is probably the most widely known brand.
How Much Thread Do You Need?
You will need more thread than you think; there is nothing worse than running out of thread after the fabric store is closed and you have to meet a deadline. Typically, there are three different sized spools – small (135 yards), large (250 yards), and “giant” (500 yards.) Most projects are going to require at least a couple of the large spools. I don’t know why manufacturers sell the small size; they are really only good for tiny projects or mending clothes.
What Color Thread?
Most times, you want your thread to match your fabric as closely as possible. In order to achieve this, you need to find a thread color that is one shade darker than your fabric. (If your fabric is multicolor, use the dominant color.) Once the thread is stitched into the material, it will blend in.
You will find the widest color selection in the large spool size. The small spools tend to have a subset of the large spool colors. The giant spools tend to be the basic colors – black, white, navy, red, etc. If you are going to do much sewing, you will find you can always use black and white and it is worth buying the large spools.
Anytime you want your thread to contrast with the fabric, such as that orange-gold top stitching on a pair of jeans, just find your desired thread color.
Other Thread Considerations
Thread has gotten expensive! Watch the fabric store fliers for 50% off sales on thread and stock up. However, stay far away from that bin of “3 spools for $X.XX.” Cheap thread is not worth the money – it breaks frequently and you will spend more time re-threading your machine and rebalancing the thread tension than it is worth.
Another way to save is to hit up yard sales and estate sales. Buy up old thread and use it to make mock-ups of garments or baste things together. My dad hit the jackpot and found a home decorator shop that was going out of business and they gave him their thread. He passed it on to me. I could now make an entire chorus of Kermit the Frogs because most of it is strange shades of green, but the price was right!
If you do buy thread on old spools, you need to load the spool correctly on your machine. Old spools of thread have a gash cut into the spool itself to hold the end of the thread. If your thread runs over the gash when you are sewing, it can break the thread. So, if your thread holder is vertical, you need to position your spool so the gash is at the bottom. If your thread holder is horizontal, you need to position the gash to the right.
Your machine may have spool caps. These are plastic disks with a center hole that hold the spool of thread on the thread holder. You need to match your spool cap to the size of your spool. A spool cap that is too large can affect the thread tension.
Serger thread typically comes on cones. I noticed that there doesn’t seem to be the same wide color range for serger thread. However, you should still try to match the thread closely to the color of your material. I never will forget my first time at Dragon*Con and seeing a Jedi in a dark brown robe that had been serged with white thread. Probably not the statement he wanted to make.
Lynn
Last edited by a moderator:
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Re: Sewing Machines - Thread
I remembered something else about thread. The colors available tend to reflect seasonal trends, meaning that the thread colors tend to match fabric colors in the store at that time.
So if you shop at a fabric store that has last season's fabrics or you are using fabric from your stash*, you may not be able to find a good color match. In that case, you have to do the best you can.
Lynn
*stash - the fabric that you purchased because you plan to do something with it "someday", because it was a particularly good deal, or leftovers from other projects that are big enough to do something with. Quilters have a saying that sewers understand - "whoever dies with the most fabric wins."
Stashes are wonderful things. You can "shop your stash" to get costume ideas or find a group of like-minded individuals and have a "stash swap".
I remembered something else about thread. The colors available tend to reflect seasonal trends, meaning that the thread colors tend to match fabric colors in the store at that time.
So if you shop at a fabric store that has last season's fabrics or you are using fabric from your stash*, you may not be able to find a good color match. In that case, you have to do the best you can.
Lynn
*stash - the fabric that you purchased because you plan to do something with it "someday", because it was a particularly good deal, or leftovers from other projects that are big enough to do something with. Quilters have a saying that sewers understand - "whoever dies with the most fabric wins."
Stashes are wonderful things. You can "shop your stash" to get costume ideas or find a group of like-minded individuals and have a "stash swap".
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Jades Dark Heart - maybe this thread will inspire you to start sewing! Or at the very least give you more insight into what it takes to make soft costume parts.
Thanks for reading.
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Re: Sewing Basics - Bobbins
Bobbins come in multiple sizes and types, however your machine will require a specific type. They may either be sold on a card with multiple bobbins or they may be sold individually. Find out what type your machine uses and buy several.
Why several? Well, many machines require that you unthread the sewing machine and rethread it to wind a bobbin. Wind several bobbins ahead of your project and save yourself some time.
Plastic bobbins can also get nicked and will affect stitching - toss it in this case.
Many times bobbins are made of clear plastic and if you drop one on the floor, you may not always be able to find it immediately. Cats also find them fascinating.
Bobbins come in multiple sizes and types, however your machine will require a specific type. They may either be sold on a card with multiple bobbins or they may be sold individually. Find out what type your machine uses and buy several.
Why several? Well, many machines require that you unthread the sewing machine and rethread it to wind a bobbin. Wind several bobbins ahead of your project and save yourself some time.
Plastic bobbins can also get nicked and will affect stitching - toss it in this case.
Many times bobbins are made of clear plastic and if you drop one on the floor, you may not always be able to find it immediately. Cats also find them fascinating.
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Re: Sewing Basics - Sewing Guides
The needle plate is marked with guides to assist you in sewing seams.
American machines will be marked in 1/8" increments. The typical seam allowance on sewing patterns is 5/8". American made machines will have that clearly marked.
View attachment 77569
Machines manufactured where the metric system is used will have the guides in millimeters.
View attachment 77570
On this machine, if you align the raw edges of your fabric with the inner edge of the hole in the needle plate, that is a 5/8" seam.
Lynn
The needle plate is marked with guides to assist you in sewing seams.
American machines will be marked in 1/8" increments. The typical seam allowance on sewing patterns is 5/8". American made machines will have that clearly marked.
View attachment 77569
Machines manufactured where the metric system is used will have the guides in millimeters.
View attachment 77570
On this machine, if you align the raw edges of your fabric with the inner edge of the hole in the needle plate, that is a 5/8" seam.
Lynn
tictoc
Well-Known Member
Okay. I'll bite.
Clear plastic feet. I assume they are clear so you can see through them. I have about 5 of them. All different shapes. A few I can see the use, but others baffle me. I have already broken needles that say 80, 90...now I am up to 110....the plastic feet seem fragile.
If you say they are cheap knock offs for real feet, I'm deleting this post....
Clear plastic feet. I assume they are clear so you can see through them. I have about 5 of them. All different shapes. A few I can see the use, but others baffle me. I have already broken needles that say 80, 90...now I am up to 110....the plastic feet seem fragile.
If you say they are cheap knock offs for real feet, I'm deleting this post....
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Sewing Machines - Presser Feet
Let's see if I can answer tic toc's question.
Your sewing machine comes with a handful of feet. Typically one is for all purpose sewing and the others are for specialized functions. You can also buy others that are even more specialized.
All Purpose or Zigzag Foot
This foot is typically installed on the machine when you purchase it. If you notice, the hole the needle goes through is wide, wide enough to allow the needle not to hit the foot on the widest zigzag stitch setting.
In this picture, the foot on the left and in the center are zigzag feet from two different machine manufacturers.
View attachment 77628
Zipper Foot
In the above picture, the zipper foot is on the right.
This foot is typically narrower than the all purpose foot. It is designed to run next to the teeth on a zipper. The foot can be attached to the presser foot holder so that you can stitch on both sides of the zipper.
Your foot may look slightly different in that the foot slides along bar. This is an adjustable zipper foot. This type of foot is also used to sew on piping. (Piping is a type of fabric trim where a piece of fabric is folded around a narrow cord and typically inserted in a seam. The black trim on the back of a Star Trek: WoK jacket is piping.)
View attachment 77627
Overcasting Foot
This is the foot on the left in the above picture. This foot is used to overcast the raw edge of fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling. You put the raw edge of the fabric against the guide on the bottom of the foot.
Monogramming Foot
This is the foot in the center. This foot is used for machine embroidery, scallop or other decorative stitching, and eyelets
Blind Stitch Foot
The foot on the right is used for blind stitch hemming (like on a pair of dress pants) Plan on making a number of test runs to ensure that the stitch is small on the right side of the fabric yet catches the hem on the wrong side.
View attachment 77629
Button Foot
The foot on top is used to sew on two or four hole buttons. I've never been successful using this foot. I still sew my buttons on by hand.
Buttonhole Foot
To "automatically" make button holes the correct length. You will need to make a lot of test button holes to ensure the length is correct, the width is correct, and the stitching is even on both sides of the button hole.
Other Specialty Feet You May Want to Investigate
Top Stitching Foot
Typically clear plastic; the foot allows you to see the edges of your garment. (Top stitching is that line of stitching next to a folded edge like on a collar or cuff.)
Walking Foot
Used to sew slippery fabrics or plaids. In typical sewing, the feed dogs move the bottom layer of fabric and the top layer of fabric goes along for the ride. The walking foot adds another set of feed dogs that work in concert with the lower feed dogs so that both layers of fabric are pulled through the machine.
Non-Stick Foot; a.k.a., Teflon Foot
Used to sew vinyl and pleather
NOTE:
When you change feet, use the hand wheel to carefully lower the needle to ensure it does not hit the foot. Otherwise you run the risk of breaking the needle or the foot.
Lynn
Let's see if I can answer tic toc's question.
Your sewing machine comes with a handful of feet. Typically one is for all purpose sewing and the others are for specialized functions. You can also buy others that are even more specialized.
All Purpose or Zigzag Foot
This foot is typically installed on the machine when you purchase it. If you notice, the hole the needle goes through is wide, wide enough to allow the needle not to hit the foot on the widest zigzag stitch setting.
In this picture, the foot on the left and in the center are zigzag feet from two different machine manufacturers.
View attachment 77628
Zipper Foot
In the above picture, the zipper foot is on the right.
This foot is typically narrower than the all purpose foot. It is designed to run next to the teeth on a zipper. The foot can be attached to the presser foot holder so that you can stitch on both sides of the zipper.
Your foot may look slightly different in that the foot slides along bar. This is an adjustable zipper foot. This type of foot is also used to sew on piping. (Piping is a type of fabric trim where a piece of fabric is folded around a narrow cord and typically inserted in a seam. The black trim on the back of a Star Trek: WoK jacket is piping.)
View attachment 77627
Overcasting Foot
This is the foot on the left in the above picture. This foot is used to overcast the raw edge of fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling. You put the raw edge of the fabric against the guide on the bottom of the foot.
Monogramming Foot
This is the foot in the center. This foot is used for machine embroidery, scallop or other decorative stitching, and eyelets
Blind Stitch Foot
The foot on the right is used for blind stitch hemming (like on a pair of dress pants) Plan on making a number of test runs to ensure that the stitch is small on the right side of the fabric yet catches the hem on the wrong side.
View attachment 77629
Button Foot
The foot on top is used to sew on two or four hole buttons. I've never been successful using this foot. I still sew my buttons on by hand.
Buttonhole Foot
To "automatically" make button holes the correct length. You will need to make a lot of test button holes to ensure the length is correct, the width is correct, and the stitching is even on both sides of the button hole.
Other Specialty Feet You May Want to Investigate
Top Stitching Foot
Typically clear plastic; the foot allows you to see the edges of your garment. (Top stitching is that line of stitching next to a folded edge like on a collar or cuff.)
Walking Foot
Used to sew slippery fabrics or plaids. In typical sewing, the feed dogs move the bottom layer of fabric and the top layer of fabric goes along for the ride. The walking foot adds another set of feed dogs that work in concert with the lower feed dogs so that both layers of fabric are pulled through the machine.
Non-Stick Foot; a.k.a., Teflon Foot
Used to sew vinyl and pleather
NOTE:
When you change feet, use the hand wheel to carefully lower the needle to ensure it does not hit the foot. Otherwise you run the risk of breaking the needle or the foot.
Lynn
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Sewing Machines - Starting and Stopping Stitching
There are a few ways to secure the threads when you start/stop stitching.
Reverse Stitching
Many sewing machines provide a reverse sewing function. This allows you to sew three or four stitches, then reverse (carefully stitching over the original stitches), then start stitching forward again. Trim the loose thread ends close to the fabric when you finish stitching the seam.
Tying the Threads
Leave about four inches of thread at the start and the end of the seam. Tie the upper and bobbin threads together using a square knot. Trim the loose thread ends close to the fabric.
Another Way to Tie the Threads
Leave about four inches of thread at the start and the end of the seam. Pull the upper thread at a 90 degree angle from the fabric until a loop of the bobbin thread is pulled to the surface. Using a pin or the point of your seam ripper, insert the point into the loop of bobbin thread and pull the thread to the same side of the fabric as the upper thread. Tie the upper and bobbin threads together using a square knot. Trim the loose thread ends close to the fabric. You should always use this technique when you are stitching a dart to prevent a dimple at the end of the dart on the right side of the fabric.
There are a few ways to secure the threads when you start/stop stitching.
Reverse Stitching
Many sewing machines provide a reverse sewing function. This allows you to sew three or four stitches, then reverse (carefully stitching over the original stitches), then start stitching forward again. Trim the loose thread ends close to the fabric when you finish stitching the seam.
Tying the Threads
Leave about four inches of thread at the start and the end of the seam. Tie the upper and bobbin threads together using a square knot. Trim the loose thread ends close to the fabric.
Another Way to Tie the Threads
Leave about four inches of thread at the start and the end of the seam. Pull the upper thread at a 90 degree angle from the fabric until a loop of the bobbin thread is pulled to the surface. Using a pin or the point of your seam ripper, insert the point into the loop of bobbin thread and pull the thread to the same side of the fabric as the upper thread. Tie the upper and bobbin threads together using a square knot. Trim the loose thread ends close to the fabric. You should always use this technique when you are stitching a dart to prevent a dimple at the end of the dart on the right side of the fabric.
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Sewing Machines - Homework
At this point, you know enough to start practicing using a machine.
Print out some copies of the attached PDFs.
You do not have to thread your sewing machine; the needle holes will show you how well you are doing. Start with a normal stitch length, such as 10 -12 stitches per inch. As you work through the exercises, try using different stitch lengths - basting stitches (6 stitches per inch) can be more difficult to control than you think.
Lines
Straight lines are the most common seams you will sew. This exercise gives you practice positioning under the needle, using the foot controller at various speeds, and different stitch lengths.
There are times when you will need to sew a seam that turns 90 degrees, such as on a waistband or sleeve cuff.
Sometimes you will need to sew more acute angles, such as on a collar.
Frequently you will sew inside and outside (concave and convex) curves. This exercise will give you practice in doing that.
View attachment 78643
View attachment 78644
View attachment 78645
At this point, you know enough to start practicing using a machine.
Print out some copies of the attached PDFs.
You do not have to thread your sewing machine; the needle holes will show you how well you are doing. Start with a normal stitch length, such as 10 -12 stitches per inch. As you work through the exercises, try using different stitch lengths - basting stitches (6 stitches per inch) can be more difficult to control than you think.
Lines
Straight lines are the most common seams you will sew. This exercise gives you practice positioning under the needle, using the foot controller at various speeds, and different stitch lengths.
- Eyeball where you think the needle will enter the paper on the first line.
- Lower the presser foot.
- Using the hand wheel, lower the needle to see if the needle will pierce the line. If not, use the hand wheel to raise the needle back up, raise the presser foot, and adjust the position of the paper.
- Once you have the paper positioned properly, slowly start stitching and try to stay on the line.
- Get in the habit of ensuring the needle is in the down position whenever you stop to reposition your hands.
- Repeat on the next lines, increasing your speed.
There are times when you will need to sew a seam that turns 90 degrees, such as on a waistband or sleeve cuff.
- Starting at one corner, position the paper under your needle.
- Lower the presser foot.
- Stitch following the lines
- At the corner, ensure that the needle is in the down position.
- Raise the presser foot and turn the paper 90 degrees.
- Lower the presser foot and start stitching again.
- Repeat for the rest of the squares, until you are comfortable making the 90 degree turns.
Sometimes you will need to sew more acute angles, such as on a collar.
- Starting at one corner, position the paper under your needle.
- Lower the presser foot.
- Stitch following the lines
- At the corner, ensure that the needle is in the down position.
- Raise the presser foot and turn the paper so that the needle will stitch down the next leg of the triangle.
- Lower the presser foot and start stitching again.
- Repeat for the rest of the triangles, until you are comfortable making the turns.
Frequently you will sew inside and outside (concave and convex) curves. This exercise will give you practice in doing that.
- Starting at one end, position the paper under your needle.
- Lower the presser foot.
- Stitch following the lines
- On particularly tight curves, you may find it necessary to use the hand wheel to make two or three stitches, then raise the presser foot and reposition the fabric (paper), then lower the presser foot and continue stitching. Once again, ensure that the needle is in the down position before you lift the presser foot.
- Lower the presser foot and start stitching again.
- Repeat for the rest of the curves, until you are comfortable making the turns.
View attachment 78643
View attachment 78644
View attachment 78645
brulafu
Active Member
Re: Sewing Machines - Presser Feet
Would I be right in saying that this foot would be used for sewing the likes of lycra ?
Would I be right in saying that this foot would be used for sewing the likes of lycra ?
MaulWalker
Sr Member
Re: Sewing Machines - Presser Feet
You are correct - the walking foot is good for sewing lycra. Use a zig zag stitch and a ball point needle as well.
You are correct - the walking foot is good for sewing lycra. Use a zig zag stitch and a ball point needle as well.
Arise from the dead, dear thread.
There is a costume I am interested in and it looks like the only way I am going to get it is by sewing it. I will probably only use the machine once or twice a year so I do not want to spend a lot of money, but I do not want a piece of plastic junk either. I am going to go the a local sewing store and look around. They are a Bernina (way out of my budget) and Janome dealer. They have the Janome 2212 that I am thinking about. The reviews are all good. The only cons are that it does not have as many features as other machines. Does that sound like a reasonable machine for someone who will do very occasional sewing and has not used a machine since the 70's? I am also going to check to see if they have trade ins and maybe hit the Goodwill store too.
There is a costume I am interested in and it looks like the only way I am going to get it is by sewing it. I will probably only use the machine once or twice a year so I do not want to spend a lot of money, but I do not want a piece of plastic junk either. I am going to go the a local sewing store and look around. They are a Bernina (way out of my budget) and Janome dealer. They have the Janome 2212 that I am thinking about. The reviews are all good. The only cons are that it does not have as many features as other machines. Does that sound like a reasonable machine for someone who will do very occasional sewing and has not used a machine since the 70's? I am also going to check to see if they have trade ins and maybe hit the Goodwill store too.
madmikeee
Sr Member
Is there a good all around machine that can handle standard fabrics as well as leather/vinyl/heavy duty fabric? Where I work I have access to scrap vinyl, nose cover (Car bra material) and convertible top material which I have used for many projects around the house and would like to be able hem them or possible make some curtains for the garage etc.
rockeagle2001
Well-Known Member
What is the method used to sew all those full body suits like spider man etc?
