stigmorgan
Sr Member
You are such an inspiration dude.
Sandbagger's Iron-Man builds - Now in STEEL
- Thread starter sandbagger
- Start date
sandbagger
Master Member
Feelin' the love dudes. 
Here's an update.
To quiet the vibrations transferred from the internal circulation and de-fogging fan's metal to metal mount in the helmet, some well-placed foam buffers glued in between should do the trick.
Video glasses, camera and lights in the eyes. I'll be able to see in the dark. Here I am adding some light shielding so it's dark inside. It's all one unit now. Two screws and the whole lot comes out together. Lights, video glasses, camera and PCB/battery.
Adding detail to the bottom lip. Also sealing light leaks ao it is completely dark inside. With distortions from the camera through the video glasses to get used to, the last thing the senses need is conflicting vision from outside.
Video and electronics unit all nutted out now. Just a matter of tidying up the wiring.
Here's an update.
To quiet the vibrations transferred from the internal circulation and de-fogging fan's metal to metal mount in the helmet, some well-placed foam buffers glued in between should do the trick.
Video glasses, camera and lights in the eyes. I'll be able to see in the dark. Here I am adding some light shielding so it's dark inside. It's all one unit now. Two screws and the whole lot comes out together. Lights, video glasses, camera and PCB/battery.
Adding detail to the bottom lip. Also sealing light leaks ao it is completely dark inside. With distortions from the camera through the video glasses to get used to, the last thing the senses need is conflicting vision from outside.
Video and electronics unit all nutted out now. Just a matter of tidying up the wiring.
sandbagger
Master Member
Camera and video display unit, (Video glasses), mounted on the inside of the faceplate. To reduce the impact of the central lens, I've hand-painted the edge of it. I'll also be looking for an adhesive gold reflective film to further disguise it.
sandbagger
Master Member
With the hinge gear for the faceplate fitted, clearances have now been sorted out on the hinge itself. The Bowden cable between the geared motor and the hinge gear will now need to be lengthened to place the motor further down into the chin area of the helmet as it is a little too tight on my cheek where it is.
I've also got to find a faster geared motor that is the same physical diameter or smaller without losing torque.
The worm itself will need a plastic cover to prevent bloody carnage inside the helmet, should chunks of hair get caught in it.
<span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: Roboto, arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
I've also got to find a faster geared motor that is the same physical diameter or smaller without losing torque.
The worm itself will need a plastic cover to prevent bloody carnage inside the helmet, should chunks of hair get caught in it.
<span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: Roboto, arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
Last edited by a moderator:
Leylander
Active Member
Maybe this has been covered already, but I was wondering.
Do you have issues with depth perception when using this setup? As you only have one camera feeding images to both eyes, doesn't that give the same effect as you would cover up one eye?
You have done an amazing job with this suit. A real head turner! (and not only cause of the looks. Those steel boots will make the appropriate sound )
Do you have issues with depth perception when using this setup? As you only have one camera feeding images to both eyes, doesn't that give the same effect as you would cover up one eye?
You have done an amazing job with this suit. A real head turner! (and not only cause of the looks. Those steel boots will make the appropriate sound
)I just saw this guy who made a steel mk6 https://youtu.be/p9U38VV5nO0 its great too but honnestly you put a lot more work on yours and your result is awesome and really clean good job maybe robert downey jr or stan lee will post it on their social media or even better the S.H.I.E.L.D. secretely exist for real and you get a call from them with Nick Fury on the phone [emoji6]
Envoyé de mon SM-G530W en utilisant Tapatalk
Envoyé de mon SM-G530W en utilisant Tapatalk
Last edited:
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Amazing quality on your suit good sir!!!
The kids will love it, and you deserve every bit of praise. A true saint. :thumbsup
The kids will love it, and you deserve every bit of praise. A true saint. :thumbsup
sandbagger
Master Member
Maybe this has been covered already, but I was wondering.
Do you have issues with depth perception when using this setup? As you only have one camera feeding images to both eyes, doesn't that give the same effect as you would cover up one eye?
You have done an amazing job with this suit. A real head turner! (and not only cause of the looks. Those steel boots will make the appropriate sound
Mate, if I had lots more disposable cash, I would certainly have included stereoscopic gear. I have to scrape in every single dollar to make this suit and often have to sell personal items to find more money.
Instead, a wide angle camera will ensure I can see children around me, as well as their sensitive life-support equipment. It's then just a matter of practice wearing the helmet, walking around my house, yard and shed, getting used to the distortions and becoming second-nature with the new vision.
The steel boots have rubber soles glued under the metal to protect the hospital floors.
Thanks for the kind words mate.
SB
- - - Updated - - -
Yeah, I've seen his stuff before. He's done alright considering his limited resources. I hope he cleans it up. I think it would be worth it. He has used the same MKIV files I have, except with the triangular arc reactor.
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks very much GM.
SB
steamboatphan
New Member
I've been lurking this thread since day 1, and I gotta say that what you've created is truly incredible. I'm super jealous
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
sandbagger
Master Member
Thanks guys. Take heart, there's a little way to go yet so it's not yet over.
Update:
With the above video in mind, I found the perfect motor online.
It is EXACTLY the same in size as the one I have, but it is two and a half times faster at 180rpm instead of my current 70rpm.
It is also stronger at 4.3kg/cm instead of my current 2.1kg/cm
It's also 6V instead of my current 12V.
WIN WIN WIN.
The output shaft is also identical at 4mm D shaped, so I don't have to change the fitting in my worm gear and Bowden cable.
I think I finally have it solved. Motor on it's way.
https://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/543-73-1-Metal-Gearmotor-20Dx42L-mm
Update:
With the above video in mind, I found the perfect motor online.
It is EXACTLY the same in size as the one I have, but it is two and a half times faster at 180rpm instead of my current 70rpm.
It is also stronger at 4.3kg/cm instead of my current 2.1kg/cm
It's also 6V instead of my current 12V.
WIN WIN WIN.
The output shaft is also identical at 4mm D shaped, so I don't have to change the fitting in my worm gear and Bowden cable.
I think I finally have it solved. Motor on it's way.
https://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/543-73-1-Metal-Gearmotor-20Dx42L-mm
sandbagger
Master Member
I haven't had any time in the shed this week. I'm sick, all three kids and wife also sick.
I got to work on it a little on the kitchen bench the other night for 20 minutes, searching out squeaks, clunks and grinds.
I'm padding them out with 2mm foam. Should sound like the solid slamming of a door of a Rolls Royce when I march off...
I got to work on it a little on the kitchen bench the other night for 20 minutes, searching out squeaks, clunks and grinds.
I'm padding them out with 2mm foam. Should sound like the solid slamming of a door of a Rolls Royce when I march off...
sandbagger
Master Member
^^^ Thanks man.
Thanks to the random kindness and generosity of another Overclockers Australia forum member, I received the new, faster, more powerful geared motor in the mail.
I soldered the wires on then spent a good part of this afternoon making a bracket to fix it into the helmet, using an existing screw-tab that I had previously used for mounting the micro-fan. The fan only needs one, so the other came in handy.
Thanks to the random kindness and generosity of another Overclockers Australia forum member, I received the new, faster, more powerful geared motor in the mail.
I soldered the wires on then spent a good part of this afternoon making a bracket to fix it into the helmet, using an existing screw-tab that I had previously used for mounting the micro-fan. The fan only needs one, so the other came in handy.
sandbagger
Master Member
Today I re-cut another Bowden cable as upon testing, the grub screw seems to be chewing it out and it lets go after two or three actuations. Very promising actuations though...
Causality is a combination of a heavy face-plate, short hinges and a powerful geared motor. The grip on the Bowden cable is the weakest link. A Bowden cable is two tightly coiled wire tubes, one inside the other, but coiled in opposing directions. This is what makes them flexible in the linear, but have no twist. The wire coil at the end is getting unravelled by the stud.
I'm starting with a fresh new cable this time, gluing it in place with Loctite stud lock. If this doesn't work I'll escalate and sweat some solder in to each end of the cable to make the ends solid.
Only problem is now I have to wait 24 hours for the Loctite to cure fully. If I don't and it releases, I'm back to square one. I hate waiting.
It's all starting to look very technical on the inside now. I also found a nice thin speaker that when hooked up to a small external microphone, will enhance my hearing in the helmet. I could probably hook it up to my phone via Bluetooth later.
Causality is a combination of a heavy face-plate, short hinges and a powerful geared motor. The grip on the Bowden cable is the weakest link. A Bowden cable is two tightly coiled wire tubes, one inside the other, but coiled in opposing directions. This is what makes them flexible in the linear, but have no twist. The wire coil at the end is getting unravelled by the stud.
I'm starting with a fresh new cable this time, gluing it in place with Loctite stud lock. If this doesn't work I'll escalate and sweat some solder in to each end of the cable to make the ends solid.
Only problem is now I have to wait 24 hours for the Loctite to cure fully. If I don't and it releases, I'm back to square one. I hate waiting.
It's all starting to look very technical on the inside now. I also found a nice thin speaker that when hooked up to a small external microphone, will enhance my hearing in the helmet. I could probably hook it up to my phone via Bluetooth later.
sandbagger
Master Member
Successful test run!
73:1 Gearmotor. 6V 180RPM, 4.3kg/cm
With the Bowden cable now secured with Loctite Stud Locker, the weakest link in the chain is now fixed. I still have to adjust the upstop and downstop slightly on the hinges, where the micro-switches mounted under them will signal the motor stops. There's also a loud click that needs to be eliminated by securing the worm wheel housing to the inside of the helmet. This will also take a little pull-strain off the Bowden cable, leaving it's one job as rotation.
73:1 Gearmotor. 6V 180RPM, 4.3kg/cm
With the Bowden cable now secured with Loctite Stud Locker, the weakest link in the chain is now fixed. I still have to adjust the upstop and downstop slightly on the hinges, where the micro-switches mounted under them will signal the motor stops. There's also a loud click that needs to be eliminated by securing the worm wheel housing to the inside of the helmet. This will also take a little pull-strain off the Bowden cable, leaving it's one job as rotation.
Last edited by a moderator:
sandbagger
Master Member
Thanks man.
Update:
The recess at the back of the helmet was twice as deep as this, taking away a bit of valuable room. So I cut it out and re-welded another piece in, giving me an extra 6mm of backspace inside the helmet. This has taken a lot of pressure off my poor old melon, especially in the front of the helmet where all the tech is starting to get crowded.
Bracket for the two relays welded to the motor bracket and installed.
To activate the faceplate up and down without making obvious motions outside the suit, a microswitch and a straw, operated by a quick pout of the bottom lip. The straw can be heated and bent into exactly the right distance away from the lip so i can talk freely without accidentally activating it.
Position of microswitch wire-bracket to be glued in.
Straw-activated microswitch installed and working like a dream.
Speaker to enhance my hearing range and clarity. I will likely be putting the microphone in the top of the chest somewhere.
I'm going to use one of the two slots in the top of the helmet, above the faceplate to place another microswitch. The lever of the microswitch will poke forward so that as the faceplate comes down to fully closed position, it activates the microswitch and turns on the lights.
Update:
The recess at the back of the helmet was twice as deep as this, taking away a bit of valuable room. So I cut it out and re-welded another piece in, giving me an extra 6mm of backspace inside the helmet. This has taken a lot of pressure off my poor old melon, especially in the front of the helmet where all the tech is starting to get crowded.
Bracket for the two relays welded to the motor bracket and installed.
To activate the faceplate up and down without making obvious motions outside the suit, a microswitch and a straw, operated by a quick pout of the bottom lip. The straw can be heated and bent into exactly the right distance away from the lip so i can talk freely without accidentally activating it.
Position of microswitch wire-bracket to be glued in.
Straw-activated microswitch installed and working like a dream.
Speaker to enhance my hearing range and clarity. I will likely be putting the microphone in the top of the chest somewhere.
I'm going to use one of the two slots in the top of the helmet, above the faceplate to place another microswitch. The lever of the microswitch will poke forward so that as the faceplate comes down to fully closed position, it activates the microswitch and turns on the lights.
