sandbagger
Master Member
IT WORKED!!!! Oh I'm so pleased and relieved!!
Sandbagger's Iron-Man builds - Now in STEEL
- Thread starter sandbagger
- Start date
sandbagger
Master Member
Both molds now ready for the latex pour.
sandbagger
Master Member
Trials tonight with colorant and paint tint in the white liquid latex. Thanks to Craig for the black tint. The left puddle has just a few drops of red and the right puddle has a drop of black and some more drops of red. I'll see how the flexibility of the cured latex performs in the morning.
sandbagger
Master Member
After a night and a day curing, the latex with red colorant set as it should. The latex with the black paint tint,(one drop) is still runny and un-set. I think the black tint has severely affected the chemistry of the latex.
Hinged the foundry. Casting the armour for the hands in aluminium. Still got to line it with refractory and clay.
And just because I had some spare time this weekend I built a deck...
Hinged the foundry. Casting the armour for the hands in aluminium. Still got to line it with refractory and clay.
And just because I had some spare time this weekend I built a deck...
sandbagger
Master Member
Hey George. OK. So the result is that the latex with the single drop of black tint added took a full day longer to set than just the plain red colorant.
The weird thing is that what's left in the bottom of the mixing cup, hasn't set at all. Puzzling.
The weird thing is that what's left in the bottom of the mixing cup, hasn't set at all. Puzzling.
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
That is interesting. Latex doesn't set or cure.. It dries. I wouldn't think a tint could cause it to stay liquid.
The water and ammonia evaporates out and what's left is solid rubber.
What is the temperature where you are using the latex?
Was the latex ever exposed to freezing temperatures?
Little test splotches like that should be dry in 30 minutes, not a day and a half.
The water and ammonia evaporates out and what's left is solid rubber.
What is the temperature where you are using the latex?
Was the latex ever exposed to freezing temperatures?
Little test splotches like that should be dry in 30 minutes, not a day and a half.
sandbagger
Master Member
30 minutes!!??
I don't know if it's ever been exposed to freezing temperatures. Certainly not since I bought it. It's been between ten and 30 degrees in my shed.
I'm really wondering if I've missed something. Should I stir the latex? Is there a catalyst to add that I don't know about? I'm under the impression it's ready to use straight out of the jar, just add colourant and away you go.
???
stigmorgan
Sr Member
I dont think you missed anything, the website says its a single compound air drying latex so my guess would be some sort of contamination somewhere along the line.
- - - Updated - - -
http://www.monstermakers.com/product/RD407-Mask-Latex-for-Halloween-Masks-and-Props.html
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Definitely give the jar a good stir. Try testing it again in a room temp or warmer area, and place a fan by it to encourage airflow over the piece.
As stigmorgan said, latex is one component. The solvents dry and what's left is the solid rubber. You can't really contaminate it, as the only real process is evaporation.
When I get home ill throw down some tinted latex and clock its cure time.
As stigmorgan said, latex is one component. The solvents dry and what's left is the solid rubber. You can't really contaminate it, as the only real process is evaporation.
When I get home ill throw down some tinted latex and clock its cure time.
stigmorgan
Sr Member
also I just noticed the black tint you have is a different brand and is labelled as a paint tinter so that may well be the whole cause of the problem
sandbagger
Master Member
That would be great! Thanks!
- - - Updated - - -
I did mention that at post #827.
sandbagger
Master Member
All sealed up, (silastic gasket between to stop leaks) ready to pour the latex.
The cracks will transfer to the outside of the gloves, but can be Dremelled off afterwards.
The cracks will transfer to the outside of the gloves, but can be Dremelled off afterwards.
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Sorry, got a little busy filling orders the other day.
It took the latex (same brand, red tinted and everything) about 48 minutes to dry in a room temp (76°F) room, with light airflow over it.
Your latex may perform better in the mold, but I'd give it a longer dwell and drying time. Dwell for maybe 15 minutes, and leave it somewhere warm with air flow over it to dry over night. Should give you a nice thick, but not toothick, pull. Perfect for a glove.
It took the latex (same brand, red tinted and everything) about 48 minutes to dry in a room temp (76°F) room, with light airflow over it.
Your latex may perform better in the mold, but I'd give it a longer dwell and drying time. Dwell for maybe 15 minutes, and leave it somewhere warm with air flow over it to dry over night. Should give you a nice thick, but not toothick, pull. Perfect for a glove.
sandbagger
Master Member
I put my hand on my heart when I say, "Thank you" for doing that.
Over my plaster hand the clay sculpted layer was about 3mm thick to make the mold. I'm hoping that one or two pours, (layers) of latex will be thick enough and strong enough to make them durable, yet not so thick that I can't pull them on. I will be wearing a thin cotton glove underneath which I think will help.
I've never made gloves before. What do you think?
sandbagger
Master Member
Hey MrMoldMaker, if I want to build a layer or two for thickness and durability, how long should I let each layer set before pouring again?
SB.
SB.
sandbagger
Master Member
Mixing in a glass jar this time to get the colour kust right.
First pour in and back out to coat it.
Warm, not hot airflow while flipping the moulds every few minutes to avoid pooling.
First pour in and back out to coat it.
Warm, not hot airflow while flipping the moulds every few minutes to avoid pooling.
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