Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

Shahrooz

Active Member
Thank you Mechanismo for the welcome and the notes/illustrations, very helpful for the collar placement alteration.

Yes, I would be grateful if you would send across important information and observations from the previous posts if you have it, thank you. I will start with the collar & lapels, the magnets used for closure on the body of the coat and shearling/fake fur (this last one is dependant on quality/durability).
Hi Kall Lyrion Good to finally have a direct line of communication with you. Not sure if you decided to join because I alerted SeAnn to the discussion of your coat on this forum but regardless, it is good to have you. You will see how passionate people get about the coat and that's a good thing. I'm also glad to hear that you're willing to listen and adapt/evolve your coat. It cost me and others a lot of money to do the changes that Mechanismo described above and there is no other person on this forum and honestly, likely on earth at this point, who knows the coat, both the original as well as every major commercial replica, as he does. If it werent for him, my coat would not nearly look as good as it now does. What is disappointing is that I should not have to make all these changes. As Mechanismo pointed out, even with all the alternations, there are still some issues we just cannot fix once the coat is made currently because for example the measurements are off. Just as my friend jholko mentioned, I too would buy another coat from you if all these changes were incorporated. Just imagine how beautiful the coat would look. You have by far the best material of all your competitors and SeAnn is a sweetheart to work with. In addition to what my good friend Mechanismo stated above, I would just again emphasize that the most glaring issue with the coat is the shearling. Which is ironic because you actually use REAL shearling and it was heartbbreaking having to take it out and throw it away. But seriously, despite the high quality, can you not see how it looks like 1980s apartment carpet/rug? Dont mean to be insulting at all but that's honestly the impression everyone has who has seen it..from my tailor to my friends to most people here on this forum. Could you not find real shearling with the right color (Mechanismo has that nailed down as well) and the right texture/drape? It isn't easy I give you that, but you have resources we don't. The best we could do to get the color and the drap, but not the quality and texture, was to deconstruct a coat from Uniqlo. Again, if you made these changes and changed the shearling, not only would I and jholko buy another coat, I can assure you that your sales would increase exponentially. Word of mouth for us fanboys and girls is so powerful and I for one have been one of the few defenders of your brand on this forum all along...you can just read the comments if you want to know. I never asked you or SeAnn for any favors or discounts etc but I will ask for something now - please consider these requests. I am a two-time customer of yours already. Your coat is great. But you can make it so much better still. Just take a look at my photos above and also posted in Mechanismo 's post above.
 
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jholko

Member
Hi Kall Lyrion Good to finally have a direct line of communication with you. Not sure if you decided to join because I alerted SeAnn to the discussion of your coat on this forum but regardless, it is good to have you. You will see how passionate people get about the coat and that's a good thing. I'm also glad to hear that you're willing to listen and adapt/evolve your coat. It cost me and others a lot of money to do the changes that Mechanismo described above and there is no other person on this forum and honestly, likely on earth at this point, who knows the coat, both the original as well as every major commercial replica, as he does. If it werent for him, my coat would not nearly look as good as it now does. What is disappointing is that I should not have to make all these changes. As Mechanismo pointed out, even with all the alternations, there are still some issues we just cannot fix once the coat is made currently because for example the measurements are off. Just as my friend jholko mentioned, I too would buy another coat from you if all these changes were incorporated. Just imagine how beautiful the coat would look. You have by far the best material of all your competitors and SeAnn is a sweetheart to work with. In addition to what my good friend Mechanismo stated above, I would just again emphasize that the most glaring issue with the coat is the shearling. Which is ironic because you actually use REAL shearling and it was heartbbreaking having to take it out and throw it away. But seriously, despite the high quality, can you not see how it looks like 1980s apartment carpet/rug? Dont mean to be insulting at all but that's honestly the impression everyone has who has seen it..from my tailor to my friends to most people here on this forum. Could you not find real shearling with the right color (Mechanismo has that nailed down as well) and the right texture/drape? It isn't easy I give you that, but you have resources we don't. The best we could do to get the color and the drap, but not the quality and texture, was to deconstruct a coat from Uniqlo. Again, if you made these changes and changed the shearling, not only would I and jholko buy another coat, I can assure you that your sales would increase exponentially. Word of mouth for us fanboys and girls is so powerful and I for one have been one of the few defenders of your brand on this forum all along...you can just read the comments if you want to know. I never asked you or SeAnn for any favors or discounts etc but I will ask for something now - please consider these requests. I am a two-time customer of yours already. Your coat is great. But you can make it so much better still. Just take a look at my photos above and also posted in Mechanismo 's post above.
THIS! Tell you what.. make all the changes to the SR coat and Ill actually buy two more. Just to show my support for going the extra yard to make the most SA coat.
 

mtortori65

New Member
Hi Kall Lyrion Good to finally have a direct line of communication with you. Not sure if you decided to join because I alerted SeAnn to the discussion of your coat on this forum but regardless, it is good to have you. You will see how passionate people get about the coat and that's a good thing. I'm also glad to hear that you're willing to listen and adapt/evolve your coat. It cost me and others a lot of money to do the changes that Mechanismo described above and there is no other person on this forum and honestly, likely on earth at this point, who knows the coat, both the original as well as every major commercial replica, as he does. If it werent for him, my coat would not nearly look as good as it now does. What is disappointing is that I should not have to make all these changes. As Mechanismo pointed out, even with all the alternations, there are still some issues we just cannot fix once the coat is made currently because for example the measurements are off. Just as my friend jholko mentioned, I too would buy another coat from you if all these changes were incorporated. Just imagine how beautiful the coat would look. You have by far the best material of all your competitors and SeAnn is a sweetheart to work with. In addition to what my good friend Mechanismo stated above, I would just again emphasize that the most glaring issue with the coat is the shearling. Which is ironic because you actually use REAL shearling and it was heartbbreaking having to take it out and throw it away. But seriously, despite the high quality, can you not see how it looks like 1980s apartment carpet/rug? Dont mean to be insulting at all but that's honestly the impression everyone has who has seen it..from my tailor to my friends to most people here on this forum. Could you not find real shearling with the right color (Mechanismo has that nailed down as well) and the right texture/drape? It isn't easy I give you that, but you have resources we don't. The best we could do to get the color and the drap, but not the quality and texture, was to deconstruct a coat from Uniqlo. Again, if you made these changes and changed the shearling, not only would I and jholko buy another coat, I can assure you that your sales would increase exponentially. Word of mouth for us fanboys and girls is so powerful and I for one have been one of the few defenders of your brand on this forum all along...you can just read the comments if you want to know. I never asked you or SeAnn for any favors or discounts etc but I will ask for something now - please consider these requests. I am a two-time customer of yours already. Your coat is great. But you can make it so much better still. Just take a look at my photos above and also posted in Mechanismo 's post above.
I'll buy another one! Anyone want a large SR:oops: Just kidding
 

Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
I just wanted to give Jameel Ur a shout out and give credit where credit is due.
Tremendous job on the SA patterns, stitching and the piping effect on the coat. Very impressive.

1656359464204.png

1656359587422.png
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Hey guys,
I just wanted to give Jameel Ur a shout out and give credit where credit is due.
Tremendous job on the SA patterns, stitching and the piping effect on the coat. Very impressive.

View attachment 1592358
View attachment 1592360
agreed. If he could only find better material and better shearling. His work with Soul Revolver's material? Oh my! and real shearling that actually looks and feels like the movie coat? Ah one can only dream haha :) but perhaps we are getting closer to that dream now as both Zlurpo and Soul Revolver have shown a willingness to listen and improve their product.
 

achilles

New Member
Hi everyone,

first post here in the forums. I have been reading up on this thread from time to time and found it very interesting. The amount of passion for Agent K‘s signature piece of garment is evident. I share that passion and have even made some drawings to contribute here but never came around to it.

I have time to post now to give another perspective.

Soon after watching BR2049 the need to add a coat to my clothing collection grew stronger and stronger (everyone knows that feeling). So the research began. My search parameters:
  • a high quality garment that fits me well and lasts a long time (buy once, cry once)
  • it should be practical and comfortable for daily wear (which is something costumes for movies don‘t necessarily have to be - they just need to look distinctive and cool on screen)
  • if the above two criteria are fulfilled, 80% screen accuracy would be great to have (the essence of the coat has to be there, details can be changed if necessary)
  • 100% screen accuracy is quite likely not achievable in one coat, because there are always multiple pieces made for filming, each with different properties (BR2049 is no different in that regard)
  • it shouldn’t have that cosplay feeling!
The last point already was enough to disqualify all the vendors I found.

When I discovered the offers from Soul Revolver my immediate response was „That‘s it!“. True, details have been changed, that much was immediately apparent, but the essence is there. And reading what they are about and what they have on offer, it was clear that they are not exclusively a cosplay provider, but rather a high quality Italian leather jacket maker. Their screen replicas still have to be stylish and of high quality craftsmanship.

Of course, I inquired about possible changes and some other things before purchase and SeAnn‘s answers were quick, polite, precise and to the point - just as I like it.

By the way, I also reached out to custom garment makers (not cosplay) where thousands of dollars would have to be spent. The answer was that the coat design by Renée April is fascinating and that they can get me close, but would not copy another designer‘s work outright. They would be able to give me their interpretation.

One has to respect what a person or a business is about.

To bemoan that a designer respects another one‘s work or that a vendor sticks to his business model never occurred to me. The explanation given by SR back in August was very reasonable. And product revisions in many industries are not measured in weeks and months, they are measured in years.

These things take time.

For example, I am a fan of Indiana Jones - a childhood hero. Last year Raiders of the Lost Ark had it‘s 40th anniversary. In 2020 I began my research about Indy gear during the first lockdown. After four decades we know a lot about the props and costumes. And you can choose from many high quality vendors - the situation is pretty much ideal. Only your wallet is the limiting factor.

One interesting fact about the Raiders jacket is, that the company (Wested in the UK) which has a direct connection to the maker of the jacket used in RotLA and can sort of claim that they are the original makers, has for the longest time chosen to sell a jacket with a different pattern and features. Why? Because it was a wise business decision. A street-wise cut, as they call it, will fit 80% of potential customers the best, and e.g. making them with a leather facing (as opposed to the screen-used jacket, which was cobbled together because of time constraints) is a desirable feature of a quality leather jacket.

In the end Wested didn’t get my business because they never answered my questions. I went with Steele & Jones - two super-fans from Argentina. They have actually have managed to get access to screen-used jackets and get you as close to screen-accuracy as you like or make alterations. A unique service and I can highly recommend them.

I think when we reach a similar point with the coat, everyone in this thread will have peace of mind (or maybe not - because everybody wants something different). Will we reach that point? Maybe. But it will take time.

In September I pulled the trigger on the SR coat and the ordering process guided by SeAnn was a breeze. Their alternative jacket option was very tempting and it is a very cool offer in and of itself by SR - even more practical than the coat and possibly the better choice for many. Yet, I went with the coat and I was relieved that I can pull off the look. The first day I wore it was a very good one because of the many compliments I got - I still get them.

So, the coat works. Service and communication is very good. The price for the coat is high but reflected in the craftsmanship. Import charges by customs hurt a bit (damn Brexit) but no fault of SR. I am a happy customer - just to make a counterpoint to the sentiment here („screw them!“). I hope Lyrion reads this.

I mean, every maker that is active here has felt the heat at some point or the other. Indy Magnoli got criticized for not laying open their sources of information and delivering updates ASAP (they are swamped with work, guys). Jameel Ur got criticized for his „tone“ (wrongly, I feel), even though his responsiveness to input from this forum has been nothing short of spectacular. To say nothing of the 100 e-mails to SR…

Patience is a virtue. And by rushing things mistakes will be made.

Case in point: I think the shifting of the collar on existing SR coats is a mistake. It solves one issue while creating others.
43905087rr.jpg

This I made some time ago. While shifting the collar makes it more accurate on one side the protruding collar on the other is not what we see on screen. The top left picture shows an arrangement of the coat not seen elsewhere in the movie. It is the rooftop scene. The blue line shows the flowing line between left lapel and collar. What we don’t see is an arrangement like the red line. The display coat (top right) shows no significant sticking out of the left collar. The lower picture should not be misunderstood: adding material to the left lapel is not the solution (and can’t be done on existing coats anyway).

43905088be.jpg


This was made to show that the top sides of the lapels are curved. They form a curved neckline when in closed position. I think the WSL coat does not have these - they are straight. Thus Mechanismo was able to install a zipper between collar and lapel on the left side (not screen-accurate, but a very practical feature). The Soul Revolver lapels curve. Also evident on the various pictures: no protruding left collar. Or it is made to behave this way by the four stitches. The four stitches are a feature that I wouldn’t appreciate on a high quality coat, screen accuracy be damned.

43905089rw.jpg

Me, a few days ago, putting on my best Ryan Gosling expression. Shown are important lines of the SR coat pattern. They correspond to the movie coat very well. They are significantly changed in the upper part when collar is shifted. Also shown the asymmetrical waist line. I think only Soul Revolver got this right: when the front of the coat is closed these lines have to meet. The upper elbow line of the sleeve is very much a continuation of the waist line. It doesn‘t look like this from every perspective, but it is close to the movie. On the recent update by Jameel Ur (which is great) it is different. I think that is because maybe the sleeve details were copied from the 1/6 figure.

The picture in the lower left shows a collar arrangement not seen in the movie. But I like it because it protects the neck from the elements and allows your face to be seen. I only wish the hook and eye closure would be more secure. It opens very easily when walking. The hook and eye closure is positioned on the wrong side of the waist line on the SR, by the way. But I don‘t care. For next autumn I will possibly install a push button there.

43905090xo.jpg

Here we see two modified SR coats. By shifting the collar backwards, the right lapel gets bigger and now reaches beyond the shoulder line. It never does this in the movie. Especially on these pictures an asymmetry is visible, which is unlike the movie coat. Renée April‘s design plays with asymmetry, true. But you can’t just shift one part of the pattern without influencing the other parts.

43905091xh.jpg

Here we see the lapel never getting past the shoulder line. Rather the shoulder line and the outward lapel line want to be a continuation. The „piping effect“ that continues for a few centimeters below the horizontal shoulder line adds to this. I also think this detail was overlooked when modifying the SR coats.

43905092vs.jpg


Here we can see that in more detail. I have no high quality pictures of the back of the shoulders, but the same continuation of the piping can be found there. Very good to see at the start of the movie.

That is enough for today. Have a good one, everybody.
 
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Shahrooz

Active Member
Hi there thanks for the very thorough and lengthy post. That's your viewpoint and we can respect that but the vast majority here disagrees in that the coat ust needs to be improved and more screen accurate particularly at this price point. I now have two soul revolvers, both the original and the alternate version, and one WSL. Also you're posting pictures of my coat before additional, extensive changes were made so that's a little bit inaccurate. We have spent a lot of time tracking down the needed changes and many people have assisted in the effort. I respect your viewpoint but I think it's fair to say that Mechanismo 's blue print for changes needed to all of the coats in production today, including the Soul Revolver, are the most popular and SA of the options. I mean my Soul Revolver original BR coat looks infinitely better now with the many changes than it did out of the box.
 

Rivethead1986

New Member
Hi everyone,

first post here in the forums. I have been reading up on this thread from time to time and found it very interesting. The amount of passion for Agent K‘s signature piece of garment is evident. I share that passion and have even made some drawings to contribute here but never came around to it.

I have time to post now to give another perspective.

Soon after watching BR2049 the need to add a coat to my clothing collection grew stronger and stronger (everyone knows that feeling). So the research began. My search parameters:
  • a high quality garment that fits me well and lasts a long time (buy once, cry once)
  • it should be practical and comfortable for daily wear (which is something costumes for movies don‘t necessarily have to be - they just need to look distinctive and cool on screen)
  • if the above two criteria are fulfilled, 80% screen accuracy would be great to have (the essence of the coat has to be there, details can be changed if necessary)
  • 100% screen accuracy is quite likely not achievable in one coat, because there are always multiple pieces made for filming, each with different properties (BR2049 is no different in that regard)
  • it shouldn’t have that cosplay feeling!
The last point already was enough to disqualify all the vendors I found.

When I discovered the offers from Soul Revolver my immediate response was „That‘s it!“. True, details have been changed, that much was immediately apparent, but the essence is there. And reading what they are about and what they have on offer, it was clear that they are not exclusively a cosplay provider, but rather a high quality Italian leather jacket maker. Their screen replicas still have to be stylish and of high quality craftsmanship.

Of course, I inquired about possible changes and some other things before purchase and SeAnn‘s answers were quick, polite, precise and to the point - just as I like it.

By the way, I also reached out to custom garment makers (not cosplay) where thousands of dollars would have to be spent. The answer was that the coat design by Renée April is fascinating and that they can get me close, but would not copy another designer‘s work outright. They would be able to give me their interpretation.

One has to respect what a person or a business is about.

To bemoan that a designer respects another one‘s work or that a vendor sticks to his business model never occurred to me. The explanation given by SR back in August was very reasonable. And product revisions in many industries are not measured in weeks and months, they are measured in years.

These things take time.

For example, I am a fan of Indiana Jones - a childhood hero. Last year Raiders of the Lost Ark had it‘s 40th anniversary. In 2020 I began my research about Indy gear during the first lockdown. After four decades we know a lot about the props and costumes. And you can choose from many high quality vendors - the situation is pretty much ideal. Only your wallet is the limiting factor.

One interesting fact about the Raiders jacket is, that the company (Wested in the UK) which has a direct connection to the maker of the jacket used in RotLA and can sort of claim that they are the original makers, has for the longest time chosen to sell a jacket with a different pattern and features. Why? Because it was a wise business decision. A street-wise cut, as they call it, will fit 80% of potential customers the best, and e.g. making them with a leather facing (as opposed to the screen-used jacket, which was cobbled together because of time constraints) is a desirable feature of a quality leather jacket.

In the end Wested didn’t get my business because they never answered my questions. I went with Steele & Jones - two super-fans from Argentina. They have actually have managed to get access to screen-used jackets and get you as close to screen-accuracy as you like or make alterations. A unique service and I can highly recommend them.

I think when we reach a similar point with the coat, everyone in this thread will have peace of mind (or maybe not - because everybody wants something different). Will we reach that point? Maybe. But it will take time.

In September I pulled the trigger on the SR coat and the ordering process guided by SeAnn was a breeze. Their alternative jacket option was very tempting and it is a very cool offer in and of itself by SR - even more practical than the coat and possibly the better choice for many. Yet, I went with the coat and I was relieved that I can pull off the look. The first day I wore it was a very good one because of the many compliments I got - I still get them.

So, the coat works. Service and communication is very good. The price for the coat is high but reflected in the craftsmanship. Import charges by customs hurt a bit (damn Brexit) but no fault of SR. I am a happy customer - just to make a counterpoint to the sentiment here („screw them!“). I hope Lyrion reads this.

I mean, every maker that is active here has felt the heat at some point or the other. Indy Magnoli got criticized for not laying open their sources of information and delivering updates ASAP (they are swamped with work, guys). Jameel Ur got criticized for his „tone“ (wrongly, I feel), even though his responsiveness to input from this forum has been nothing short of spectacular. To say nothing of the 100 e-mails to SR…

Patience is a virtue. And by rushing things mistakes will be made.

Case in point: I think the shifting of the collar on existing SR coats is a mistake. It solves one issue while creating others. View attachment 1593174
This I made some time ago. While shifting the collar makes it more accurate on one side the protruding collar on the other is not what we see on screen. The top left picture shows an arrangement of the coat not seen elsewhere in the movie. It is the rooftop scene. The blue line shows the flowing line between left lapel and collar. What we don’t see is an arrangement like the red line. The display coat (top right) shows no significant sticking out of the left collar. The lower picture should not be misunderstood: adding material to the left lapel is not the solution (and can’t be done on existing coats anyway).

View attachment 1593175

This was made to show that the top sides of the lapels are curved. They form a curved neckline when in closed position. I think the WSL coat does not have these - they are straight. Thus Mechanismo was able to install a zipper between collar and lapel on the left side (not screen-accurate, but a very practical feature). The Soul Revolver lapels curve. Also evident on the various pictures: no protruding left collar. Or it is made to behave this way by the four stitches. The four stitches are a feature that I wouldn’t appreciate on a high quality coat, screen accuracy be damned.

View attachment 1593176
Me, a few days ago, putting on my best Ryan Gosling expression. Shown are important lines of the SR coat pattern. They correspond to the movie coat very well. They are significantly changed in the upper part when collar is shifted. Also shown the asymmetrical waist line. I think only Soul Revolver got this right: when the front of the coat is closed these lines have to meet. The upper elbow line of the sleeve is very much a continuation of the waist line. It doesn‘t look like this from every perspective, but it is close to the movie. On the recent update by Jameel Ur (which is great) it is different. I think that is because maybe the sleeve details were copied from the 1/6 figure.

The picture in the lower left shows a collar arrangement not seen in the movie. But I like it because it protects the neck from the elements and allows your face to be seen. I only wish the hook and eye closure would be more secure. It opens very easily when walking. The hook and eye closure is positioned on the wrong side of the waist line on the SR, by the way. But I don‘t care. For next autumn I will possibly install a push button there.

View attachment 1593177
Here we see two modified SR coats. By shifting the collar backwards, the right lapel gets bigger and now reaches beyond the shoulder line. It never does this in the movie. Especially on these pictures an asymmetry is visible, which is unlike the movie coat. Renée April‘s design plays with asymmetry, true. But you can’t just shift one part of the pattern without influencing the other parts.

View attachment 1593178
Here we see the lapel never getting past the shoulder line. Rather the shoulder line and the outward lapel line want to be a continuation. The „piping effect“ that continues for a few centimeters below the horizontal shoulder line adds to this. I also think this detail was overlooked when modifying the SR coats.

View attachment 1593179

Here we can see that in more detail. I have no high quality pictures of the back of the shoulders, but the same continuation of the piping can be found there. Very good to see at the start of the movie.

That is enough for today. Have a good one, everybody.
It has already been acknowledged on this thread that shifting the collar creates a non-SA situation on the other side. But that bit of inaccuracy is less noticeable when wearing the coat how its worn in the film... I dont know why anyone would wear the collar spread out over their shoulder like you are in your photo...

The collar placement on the right side is the most important factor for me. And having the connecting fabric(or the "4 stiches" you mention...if I understood correctly) between the lapel and collar on the left side are important in being able to position the longer portion of the collar under the lapel as its worn in 90% of the time in the film.

I definitely dont think anyone should be bullying anyone from any company or be rude to them. But I think its important for designers to be recieve criticism so they can make a better product. When it comes to the SR coat..like me, you bought it because it appeared to be the closest one to screen accuracy and looked high quality(which it is very much a high quality coat).. when I received mine I noticed the collar placement right away and that carpet like shearling..

It's a nice coat as is for sure. But it is advertised as a replica. And even if it wasnt, why not try and persuade a company to make improvements?
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
It has already been acknowledged on this thread that shifting the collar creates a non-SA situation on the other side. But that bit of inaccuracy is less noticeable when wearing the coat how its worn in the film... I dont know why anyone would wear the collar spread out over their shoulder like you are in your photo...

The collar placement on the right side is the most important factor for me. And having the connecting fabric(or the "4 stiches" you mention...if I understood correctly) between the lapel and collar on the left side are important in being able to position the longer portion of the collar under the lapel as its worn in 90% of the time in the film.

I definitely dont think anyone should be bullying anyone from any company or be rude to them. But I think its important for designers to be recieve criticism so they can make a better product. When it comes to the SR coat..like me, you bought it because it appeared to be the closest one to screen accuracy and looked high quality(which it is very much a high quality coat).. when I received mine I noticed the collar placement right away and that carpet like shearling..

It's a nice coat as is for sure. But it is advertised as a replica. And even if it wasnt, why not try and persuade a company to make improvements?
That's exactly it. No bullying or harrassment but let's be accurate. My pictures for example that are being used, without my permission btw, are misleading because those are from before the extensive changes to the coat. This coat is not a replica as is, the shearling looks awful and is the wrong color entirely and there are a lot of nuances missing. It is at best a BR inspired coat. And for those who love that, great. We want a more SA version and that's what we are asking SR and others to provide. Why does it have to be a all or nothing approach? Keep the current version and give the many fans here and elsewhere their requested SA version.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Also, there are numerous other things that are just plain wrong with the SR coat (and all others) and those have been covered ad nauseam here as well and to argue that it is all well and no further changes are needed really is a disservice to all the time and effort many of us have dedicated here to produce a better coat.
 
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Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,

first post here in the forums. I have been reading up on this thread from time to time and found it very interesting. The amount of passion for Agent K‘s signature piece of garment is evident. I share that passion and have even made some drawings to contribute here but never came around to it.

I have time to post now to give another perspective.

Soon after watching BR2049 the need to add a coat to my clothing collection grew stronger and stronger (everyone knows that feeling). So the research began. My search parameters:
  • a high quality garment that fits me well and lasts a long time (buy once, cry once)
  • it should be practical and comfortable for daily wear (which is something costumes for movies don‘t necessarily have to be - they just need to look distinctive and cool on screen)
  • if the above two criteria are fulfilled, 80% screen accuracy would be great to have (the essence of the coat has to be there, details can be changed if necessary)
  • 100% screen accuracy is quite likely not achievable in one coat, because there are always multiple pieces made for filming, each with different properties (BR2049 is no different in that regard)
  • it shouldn’t have that cosplay feeling!
The last point already was enough to disqualify all the vendors I found.

When I discovered the offers from Soul Revolver my immediate response was „That‘s it!“. True, details have been changed, that much was immediately apparent, but the essence is there. And reading what they are about and what they have on offer, it was clear that they are not exclusively a cosplay provider, but rather a high quality Italian leather jacket maker. Their screen replicas still have to be stylish and of high quality craftsmanship.

Of course, I inquired about possible changes and some other things before purchase and SeAnn‘s answers were quick, polite, precise and to the point - just as I like it.

By the way, I also reached out to custom garment makers (not cosplay) where thousands of dollars would have to be spent. The answer was that the coat design by Renée April is fascinating and that they can get me close, but would not copy another designer‘s work outright. They would be able to give me their interpretation.

One has to respect what a person or a business is about.

To bemoan that a designer respects another one‘s work or that a vendor sticks to his business model never occurred to me. The explanation given by SR back in August was very reasonable. And product revisions in many industries are not measured in weeks and months, they are measured in years.

These things take time.

For example, I am a fan of Indiana Jones - a childhood hero. Last year Raiders of the Lost Ark had it‘s 40th anniversary. In 2020 I began my research about Indy gear during the first lockdown. After four decades we know a lot about the props and costumes. And you can choose from many high quality vendors - the situation is pretty much ideal. Only your wallet is the limiting factor.

One interesting fact about the Raiders jacket is, that the company (Wested in the UK) which has a direct connection to the maker of the jacket used in RotLA and can sort of claim that they are the original makers, has for the longest time chosen to sell a jacket with a different pattern and features. Why? Because it was a wise business decision. A street-wise cut, as they call it, will fit 80% of potential customers the best, and e.g. making them with a leather facing (as opposed to the screen-used jacket, which was cobbled together because of time constraints) is a desirable feature of a quality leather jacket.

In the end Wested didn’t get my business because they never answered my questions. I went with Steele & Jones - two super-fans from Argentina. They have actually have managed to get access to screen-used jackets and get you as close to screen-accuracy as you like or make alterations. A unique service and I can highly recommend them.

I think when we reach a similar point with the coat, everyone in this thread will have peace of mind (or maybe not - because everybody wants something different). Will we reach that point? Maybe. But it will take time.

In September I pulled the trigger on the SR coat and the ordering process guided by SeAnn was a breeze. Their alternative jacket option was very tempting and it is a very cool offer in and of itself by SR - even more practical than the coat and possibly the better choice for many. Yet, I went with the coat and I was relieved that I can pull off the look. The first day I wore it was a very good one because of the many compliments I got - I still get them.

So, the coat works. Service and communication is very good. The price for the coat is high but reflected in the craftsmanship. Import charges by customs hurt a bit (damn Brexit) but no fault of SR. I am a happy customer - just to make a counterpoint to the sentiment here („screw them!“). I hope Lyrion reads this.

I mean, every maker that is active here has felt the heat at some point or the other. Indy Magnoli got criticized for not laying open their sources of information and delivering updates ASAP (they are swamped with work, guys). Jameel Ur got criticized for his „tone“ (wrongly, I feel), even though his responsiveness to input from this forum has been nothing short of spectacular. To say nothing of the 100 e-mails to SR…

Patience is a virtue. And by rushing things mistakes will be made.

Case in point: I think the shifting of the collar on existing SR coats is a mistake. It solves one issue while creating others. View attachment 1593174
This I made some time ago. While shifting the collar makes it more accurate on one side the protruding collar on the other is not what we see on screen. The top left picture shows an arrangement of the coat not seen elsewhere in the movie. It is the rooftop scene. The blue line shows the flowing line between left lapel and collar. What we don’t see is an arrangement like the red line. The display coat (top right) shows no significant sticking out of the left collar. The lower picture should not be misunderstood: adding material to the left lapel is not the solution (and can’t be done on existing coats anyway).

View attachment 1593175

This was made to show that the top sides of the lapels are curved. They form a curved neckline when in closed position. I think the WSL coat does not have these - they are straight. Thus Mechanismo was able to install a zipper between collar and lapel on the left side (not screen-accurate, but a very practical feature). The Soul Revolver lapels curve. Also evident on the various pictures: no protruding left collar. Or it is made to behave this way by the four stitches. The four stitches are a feature that I wouldn’t appreciate on a high quality coat, screen accuracy be damned.

View attachment 1593176
Me, a few days ago, putting on my best Ryan Gosling expression. Shown are important lines of the SR coat pattern. They correspond to the movie coat very well. They are significantly changed in the upper part when collar is shifted. Also shown the asymmetrical waist line. I think only Soul Revolver got this right: when the front of the coat is closed these lines have to meet. The upper elbow line of the sleeve is very much a continuation of the waist line. It doesn‘t look like this from every perspective, but it is close to the movie. On the recent update by Jameel Ur (which is great) it is different. I think that is because maybe the sleeve details were copied from the 1/6 figure.

The picture in the lower left shows a collar arrangement not seen in the movie. But I like it because it protects the neck from the elements and allows your face to be seen. I only wish the hook and eye closure would be more secure. It opens very easily when walking. The hook and eye closure is positioned on the wrong side of the waist line on the SR, by the way. But I don‘t care. For next autumn I will possibly install a push button there.

View attachment 1593177
Here we see two modified SR coats. By shifting the collar backwards, the right lapel gets bigger and now reaches beyond the shoulder line. It never does this in the movie. Especially on these pictures an asymmetry is visible, which is unlike the movie coat. Renée April‘s design plays with asymmetry, true. But you can’t just shift one part of the pattern without influencing the other parts.

View attachment 1593178
Here we see the lapel never getting past the shoulder line. Rather the shoulder line and the outward lapel line want to be a continuation. The „piping effect“ that continues for a few centimeters below the horizontal shoulder line adds to this. I also think this detail was overlooked when modifying the SR coats.

View attachment 1593179

Here we can see that in more detail. I have no high quality pictures of the back of the shoulders, but the same continuation of the piping can be found there. Very good to see at the start of the movie.

That is enough for today. Have a good one, everybody.
[UPDATED]

Hi achilles , welcome to the forum. It’s great to see someone with a passion for detail, which I think always leads to further analysis and meaningful discussion.

I totally agree on the overarching premise that, as you mention, striking that balance between screen accuracy and practicality is paramount (I included a non-SA zipper and poppers on my coat, for instance, precisely to make it more practical). Also, sometimes to achieve given SA aspects, in many ways, you have to forgo others. This might boil down to how much you’re willing to spend on an alteration…as well as factoring in a given tailor’s skill (this can vary wildly).

So I’ll jump right in about your main point, this being the extra ‘spillage’ that happens on the long side of the collar once it’s shifted/repositioned on the short side. As Rivethead1986 mentioned, this is something that we’ve covered here previously, but I’ll recap my thoughts on this.

I agree that, in most cases, the collar’s long edge is indeed flush with the lapel edge as you point out and illustrate.
In the case of this oddly arranged prop display, however, there does appear to be extra length beyond the lapel edge:

1656546107994.png


This raises the question of there being slightly different coats for different scenes...

But, agreeing that In most instances the long side of the collar is flush with the lapel edge, the tailors performing the post-sale alterations on the Soul Revolver coat (on Shahrooz and johncarbon1991 's SR coats for instance), had essentially two options:

Option A: Shift the collar and subtract the extra ‘spillage’ on the long side in order to, once again, make that long side of the collar flush with the edge of the lapel.

Option B: Shift the collar and leave the extra spillage.

Option A would appear to be the most screen accurate on that long side of the collar, I agree, but it’s not devoid of some problems. Again, these being mostly practical. For instance, the extra expense associated with having a tailor essentially recut/redesign that part of the collar, making the alteration that much more expensive. The extra part of the collar falls just behind the lapel corner edge most of the time and is hardly visible. Moreover, when the collar is propped up, this also allows for a bit more slack around the wearers face so it won’t tighten up around the nose or ears. If you suddenly remove roughly an inch from the entire collar itself, that might very well be the case… Someone performing alteration Option A is the only way to know for sure…

Now, if you’re suggesting that a coat provider like SR do nothing and simply maintain their collar (or indeed their entire coat) ‘as is,’ this does very little to solve some glaring issues with screen accuracy that we've covered here extensively. Having said that, we're all very much rooting for SR to achieve the best possible coat.

Regarding your points on the collar specifically, when it boils down to it, I believe it’s far more important to get the short side of the collar in the correct position than keeping the long side of the collar flush with the lapel edge...

Having said that, you do raise some interesting considerations for further discussion regarding lapel dimensions (for example, Magnoli’s used to be tiny and have since amended this). And on this prop display, for example, the lapels also appear to be straight, like on WSL:

1656546674073.png


One thing, however, nearly every coat provider got (and some still get) wrong is that over-extended (and hence floppy) short side of the collar drooping down past the neck, meaning this:

1656609342898.png

...instead of this:
1656609395587.png


Regardless of lapel dimensions/patterns, one thing is fairly certain: the short side of the collar should sit smartly just above the collar bone, flush with the neck, and extend one inch past the shoulder panel. The pictorial evidence for this is overwhelming. The collar design itself is also needs to be amended, but that’s a different matter.

[EDIT]: A final thought here achilles ... Like I say, I think you raise some interesting discussion about the lapels. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're also basically saying that, if the collar is shifted further back on the short side, then the lapel suddenly opens wider than it should on that side...

While this might be true, (and is well spotted on your part), it only lays bare yet another issue: i.e. SR's lapel pattern also needs revising. (Incidentally, this wasn't an issue on the WSL coat when adding a custom collar in the correct position, nor is it an issue on Jameel Ur / Zlurpo 's coat. In these cases, the collar is in the right position, right dimensions and the lapels conform to the design parameters you mention).

So the rationale that, paraphrasing here, "if you correct a key aspect of the coat to be more SA, it just creates another, new non-SA issue...so... don't even bother," doesn't really hold water IMO. If this is the case, and does indeed appear to be so, both issues must surely be addressed and amended, especially if you're a company that claims to make a "screen accurate replica."
 
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Hi achilles , welcome to the forum. It’s great to see someone with a passion for detail, which I think always leads to further analysis and meaningful discussion.

I totally agree on the overarching premise that, as you mention, striking that balance between screen accuracy and practicality is paramount (I included a non-SA zipper and buttons on my coat, for instance, precisely to make it more practical). Also, sometimes to achieve given SA aspects, in many ways, you have to forgo others. This might boil down to how much you’re willing to spend on an alteration…as well as factoring in a given tailor’s skill (this can vary wildly).

So I’ll jump right in about your main point, this being the extra ‘spillage’ that happens on the long side of the collar once it’s shifted/repositioned on the short side. As Rivethead1986 mentioned, this is something that we’ve covered here previously, but I’ll recap my thoughts on this.

I agree that, in most cases, the collar’s long edge is indeed flush with the lapel edge as you point out and illustrate.
In the case of this oddly arranged prop display, however, there does appear to be extra length beyond the lapel edge:

View attachment 1593288

This raises the question of there being slightly different coats for different scenes...

But, agreeing that In most instances the long side of the collar is flush with the lapel edge, the tailors performing the post-sale alterations on the Soul Revolver coat (on Shahrooz and johncarbon1991 's SR coats for instance), had essentially two options:

Option A: Shift the collar and subtract the extra ‘spillage’ on the long side in order to, once again, make that long side of the collar flush with the edge of the lapel.

Option B: Shift the collar and leave the extra spillage.

Option A would appear to be the most screen accurate on that long side of the collar, I agree, but it’s not devoid of some problems. Again, these being mostly practical. For instance, the extra expense associated with having a tailor essentially recut/redesign that part of the collar, making the alteration that much more expensive. The extra part of the collar falls just behind the lapel corner edge most of the time and is hardly visible. Moreover, when the collar is propped up, this also allows for a bit more slack around the wearers face so it won’t tighten up around the nose or ears.

If you suddenly remove roughly an inch from the entire collar itself, that might very well be the case… Someone performing alteration Option A is the only way to know for sure… Now, if you’re suggesting that a coat provider like SR do nothing and simply maintain their collar (and their coat) ‘as is,’ that does zero to further some glaring issues with screen accuracy that we've covered here ad nauseam. Having said that, we're all rooting for SR to achieve the best possible coat.

Regarding your points on the collar, I believe it’s far more important to get the short side of the collar in the correct position than lining up the long side of the collar with the lapel edge...

Having said that, you raise some interesting considerations for further discussion regarding lapel dimensions (for example, Magnoli’s used to be tiny). And on this prop display, for example, the lapels also appear to be straight, like on the WSL:

View attachment 1593302

One thing, however, nearly every coat provider got (and some still get) dead wrong is that over-extended (and hence) floppy short side of the collar, drooping down past the neck:

View attachment 1593289

Regardless of lapel dimensions/patterns, one thing is fairly certain: the short side of the collar should sit smartly just above the collar bone and extend one inch past the shoulder panel. The pictorial evidence for this is simply overwhelming. And more to the point, the collar design itself is also incorrect, but that’s a different matter.
For what it's worth, my tailor offered me the option to trim the excess off the collar. We could've refinished it that way. We chose not to because although it would've "fixed" the excess fabric off the collar when worn open, it would've resulted in the collar being immensely snug against the face when worn up, uncomfortably so. Accuracy had to be sacrificed for practicality. The current SR collar works when worn upright in part due to the length of the collar relative to it's shape. What I mean by that is, if the fabric length was shortened (which would result in a more accurate look), for it to be worn upright comfortably, the shape would have to be changed from a straight rectangle to more of a funnel. Mechanismo has said as much, repeatedly.

All I'll say for the record, since it keeps coming up, is that it's never been my intention to bully anyone. I'm certain sending a massive amount of emails asking a million different questions made me an irritating customer, and I'll own that. I probably came off as very demanding in how neurotic I was about details. But had I thought I was causing SR's customer service rep such emotional agony, I would have immediately checked myself and apologized. Which, for the record, is what I did do after Kall responded here. What's done is done--they've moved on, I've moved on, and I don't want to get into more back and forth about it and derail this thread further. Period.

But all this highlights a bigger thing, which is that it feels like this thread has devolved from a discussion about Gosling's wardrobe in the film to the merits of one specific company's replica coat. That's not a knock on anyone here--this is a wonderful community with an immensely passionate fanbase, and I'd like to think we can all agree or disagree respectfully about what one person feels is more accurate over another. I certainly owe a great many members here an immense thanks for helping me in mod my coat. And it is indeed a beautiful, well-crafted piece, with or without the modifications. But the Soul Revolver coat's been covered. We've seen the stock version. We've seen the modifications. Unless something drastically new here is added like screen accurate exact measurements or an entirely new offering, this feels like a lot of rehashing on the same points.

Anyway. Just my two cents. With that, I'll see myself out.
 

Mechanismo

Well-Known Member
It has already been acknowledged on this thread that shifting the collar creates a non-SA situation on the other side. But that bit of inaccuracy is less noticeable when wearing the coat how its worn in the film... I dont know why anyone would wear the collar spread out over their shoulder like you are in your photo...

The collar placement on the right side is the most important factor for me. And having the connecting fabric(or the "4 stiches" you mention...if I understood correctly) between the lapel and collar on the left side are important in being able to position the longer portion of the collar under the lapel as its worn in 90% of the time in the film.

I definitely dont think anyone should be bullying anyone from any company or be rude to them. But I think its important for designers to be recieve criticism so they can make a better product. When it comes to the SR coat..like me, you bought it because it appeared to be the closest one to screen accuracy and looked high quality(which it is very much a high quality coat).. when I received mine I noticed the collar placement right away and that carpet like shearling..

It's a nice coat as is for sure. But it is advertised as a replica. And even if it wasnt, why not try and persuade a company to make improvements?
Just to your point regarding the collar on the long edge and the stitching, I find that Soul Revolver (and achilles) model this aspect very oddly. The long side of the collar appears to be tightly tucked behind the lapel. However, in nearly every scene in the movie, it runs across the entire length of the top edge of the lapel, as shown on the altered Soul Revolver below.

1656550591158.png


And here:

1656550970792.png

Perhaps this is an issue that stems from the choice of shearling material, I wonder.
 
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Shahrooz

Active Member
For what it's worth, my tailor offered me the option to trim the excess off the collar. We could've refinished it that way. We chose not to because although it would've "fixed" the excess fabric off the collar when worn open, it would've resulted in the collar being immensely snug against the face when worn up, uncomfortably so. Accuracy had to be sacrificed for practicality. The current SR collar works when worn upright in part due to the length of the collar relative to it's shape. What I mean by that is, if the fabric length was shortened (which would result in a more accurate look), for it to be worn upright comfortably, the shape would have to be changed from a straight rectangle to more of a funnel. Mechanismo has said as much, repeatedly.

All I'll say for the record, since it keeps coming up, is that it's never been my intention to bully anyone. I'm certain sending a massive amount of emails asking a million different questions made me an irritating customer, and I'll own that. I probably came off as very demanding in how neurotic I was about details. But had I thought I was causing SR's customer service rep such emotional agony, I would have immediately checked myself and apologized. Which, for the record, is what I did do after Kall responded here. What's done is done--they've moved on, I've moved on, and I don't want to get into more back and forth about it and derail this thread further. Period.

But all this highlights a bigger thing, which is that it feels like this thread has devolved from a discussion about Gosling's wardrobe in the film to the merits of one specific company's replica coat. That's not a knock on anyone here--this is a wonderful community with an immensely passionate fanbase, and I'd like to think we can all agree or disagree respectfully about what one person feels is more accurate over another. I certainly owe a great many members here an immense thanks for helping me in mod my coat. And it is indeed a beautiful, well-crafted piece, with or without the modifications. But the Soul Revolver coat's been covered. We've seen the stock version. We've seen the modifications. Unless something drastically new here is added like screen accurate exact measurements or an entirely new offering, this feels like a lot of rehashing on the same points.

Anyway. Just my two cents. With that, I'll see myself out.
Johnny don't leave the forum. Yours is an important voice on this counsel :) In all seriousness, we don't care what happened between you and Soul Revolver and we have seen nothing but passion, enthusiasm, respect and good manners from you. Like you said, this is a forum about the K coat not about the Soul Revolver coat in particular. We have now ad nauseam covered the fundamental flaws with every commercially available version of the coat. Unless these coat makers start making serious changes or a new coat maker emerges and produces a more SA coat, i for one will no longer recommend any of these coat makers to any of my friends and acquaintances. The SR is a great start and the material and construction are terrific but it is too damn hard and time consuming to get it tailored to make it more SA and as is, it just does not look right. Just taking a look at the pictures in Achilles' post, I find that my coat, your coat and Mechanismo 's coat look infinitely better. That's just my view. Anyway, we really would like you to stay.
 

Shahrooz

Active Member
Hello guys,
We just completed coated cotton fabric coat sample.
Hey "achilles" welcome to this thread, (Althoug I thought this thread has been finidhesd):unsure:.

View attachment 1593418 View attachment 1593419 View attachment 1593420
Great design and thanks for the hard work. But the shearling is still off and so is the material. Perhaps Soul Revolver and Zlurpo can work together on a Joint Venture to produce a coat with your design and their material with real shearling that actually looks SA. Now that would be a coat all of us would buy and love! One can only dream haha. Lyrion and Jameel Ur But Jameel Ur appreciate all the hard work, man.
 
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Shahrooz

Active Member
Just to your point regarding the collar on the long edge and the stitching, I find that Soul Revolver (and achilles) model this aspect very oddly. The long side of the collar appears to be tightly tucked behind the lapel. However, in nearly every scene in the movie, it runs across the entire length of the top edge of the lapel, as shown on the altered Soul Revolver below.

View attachment 1593306

And here:

View attachment 1593307
Perhaps this is an issue that stems from the choice of shearling material, I wonder.
Now that I think about it, I full agree with Mechanismo 's assessment of achilles 's argument which seems to be saying "don't bother fixing the collar because it highlights and exacerbates other mistakes with the coat and the lapel in particular'. That's the wrong line of reasoning in our minds. And pardon the bluntness but it is a bit of a lazy argument. Why not fix both?!?! And everything else? We are paying good money and should not have to spend double that on tailoring costs.
 
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