Resin repair?

steveo

Sr Member
Hey people,

I have a resin figure that I need to fill in some air bubbles and was wondering what I could do to fill them in so I can paint the figure. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Steveo
 

Gigatron

Sr Member
Small holes, you can use plain old crazy glue.

For larger holes, you can mix crazy glue with talcum powder. Not sure why this works, but it does :)

-Fred
 

PHArchivist

Master Member
Try a different forum amigo -- this is appropriate for Props or General Modeling.

I've started leaning towards the slightly less reslilient but MUCH easier to work with and MUCH cheaper stuff you can get at a hardwar store.

Drywall mud.
Elmer's latex-based wood putty
etcetera.

No sh.t. Don't laugh -- it works.
 

AnsonJames

Sr Member
The ideal item for larger bubbles is car body filler (Isopon, Upol in the UK - Bondo in the U.S.) this is basically a Resin with a bit of filler.
It sets in about 15 minutes too so no having to wait around.
Squadron green is good but it takes longer to set in thick applications and it shrinks very slightly.
For very small pinhole bubbles you can spray some car primer into the top of the can and wait for it to congeal - apply with a cocktail stick or similar.
The advantage of this is you can sand the excess with very fine paper (800/1200 wet and dry)thus reducing the risk of revealing other pinhole bubbles.

Anson
 

TazVader

Sr Member
Yeah car body filler works well. you can sculpt it a bit too just before the mix goes off if you need too:)

Regards
TAZ
 

Gigatron

Sr Member
Personally, after years of trying to get it to work, I've shied away from bondo for anything other than smoothing out the surface. I find it doesn't work so well as a gap filler. It's not even designed as a gap filler for it's original purpose, but to smooth out the surface so your paint job isn't all wavy.

For small pinholes, bondo works fine, but for anything larger, I would advise against it. Bondo (or any other automotive filler) is designed to be applied in a very thin (less than 1 mm thickeness) layer. Anything more than that and it becomes brittle and damn near useless. Plus, it has shrinkage issues.

Just my personal experience over the last couple of years, both model building and automotive.

-Fred
 

steveo

Sr Member
Thanks for all the tips. They seem to be pretty consistent. I'll give em a try.

Steveo

<div class='quotetop'>(Gigatron @ May 21 2006, 12:45 PM) [snapback]1247887[/snapback]</div>
Personally, after years of trying to get it to work, I've shied away from bondo for anything other than smoothing out the surface. I find it doesn't work so well as a gap filler. It's not even designed as a gap filler for it's original purpose, but to smooth out the surface so your paint job isn't all wavy.

For small pinholes, bondo works fine, but for anything larger, I would advise against it. Bondo (or any other automotive filler) is designed to be applied in a very thin (less than 1 mm thickeness) layer. Anything more than that and it becomes brittle and damn near useless. Plus, it has shrinkage issues.

Just my personal experience over the last couple of years, both model building and automotive.

-Fred
[/b]
 

RedTwoX

Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>(exoray @ May 21 2006, 02:26 AM) [snapback]1247830[/snapback]</div>
I like using Squadron putty..
[/b]

I also like Squadron putty for small air bubbles and seems. It's air dry, so if you use it on larger holes/gaps it will take forever to dry and there is a lot of shrinkage. That means it will take two or three applications to build up to the surrounding surface. However, when you only need a little filler, nothing is faster or easier to use. I've used drywall spackle as well. Not bad, but I prefer the Squadron putty.

If you need to fill larger holes/gaps then go with some type of epoxy that cures chemically. You may even consider using a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or plumbers putty.

One product I found at Home Depot and have good success with is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that mixes with water, but it's still a chemical cure. You can mix it to whatever consistancy you need: Thin enough to brush on with a cheap paint brush or a very thick paste. There is very little if any skrinage. Be aware that it is ridged and brittle, so don't use it on anything that needs to flex or support weight. It's fantastic for filling in air bubbles and building up ridge surfaces.
 

Peace Hunter

Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>(PHArchivist @ May 20 2006, 07:39 PM) [snapback]1247746[/snapback]</div>
Try a different forum amigo -- this is appropriate for Props or General Modeling.

I've started leaning towards the slightly less reslilient but MUCH easier to work with and MUCH cheaper stuff you can get at a hardwar store.

Drywall mud.
Elmer's latex-based wood putty
etcetera.

No sh.t. Don't laugh -- it works.
[/b]

I couldn't agree more :)


Robert
 

Reaper57

Well-Known Member
on small pinholes press the filler into the area with your finger and work it into the holes.

if you just spred it sometimes air is trapped and you just skin over the holes. light sanding opens them up again.

john :cool
 

jrschmd

New Member
I too have used simple wood putty to fill in holes on a resin lightsaber and found it very easy to work with. I have also used it to fill in seams on models. Works great.
 

King Ranger

Sr Member
For smaller pinholes. I've been using Gunze's Mr Thinned Putty. It's actually putty mixed with a little thinner and works great for pinholes, evening seams, etc and SOOOOoo easy to work with. You can do the same thing with Tamiya putty and thinner available at most hobby stores. The super glue method works but you may have to apply more than once sometimes because of the shrinkage cyanoacrylates have. Mr. Surfacer is good too but sometimes depending on the size of the hole it may start to divit again and you'll have to apply more Mr. Surfacer. Mr. Thinned Putty skips the multiple applications steps. Just one time and it's good.

For larger holes, I use a polyester putty called Mori Mori but Squadron or Tamiya or any other kind of poly putty is good for that, I just prefer Mori Mori. They have a product in Japan called SSP-HG which is basically the super glue/baby powder mixture but it's also a little tough to sand down but it's very durable and great for redoing parts that have details or building up parts. Plus it's purple so you can see the difference between the kit and the putty.

Ryu
 
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