Resin repair?
- Thread starter steveo
- Start date
PHArchivist
Master Member
Try a different forum amigo -- this is appropriate for Props or General Modeling.
I've started leaning towards the slightly less reslilient but MUCH easier to work with and MUCH cheaper stuff you can get at a hardwar store.
Drywall mud.
Elmer's latex-based wood putty
etcetera.
No sh.t. Don't laugh -- it works.
I've started leaning towards the slightly less reslilient but MUCH easier to work with and MUCH cheaper stuff you can get at a hardwar store.
Drywall mud.
Elmer's latex-based wood putty
etcetera.
No sh.t. Don't laugh -- it works.
AnsonJames
Sr Member
The ideal item for larger bubbles is car body filler (Isopon, Upol in the UK - Bondo in the U.S.) this is basically a Resin with a bit of filler.
It sets in about 15 minutes too so no having to wait around.
Squadron green is good but it takes longer to set in thick applications and it shrinks very slightly.
For very small pinhole bubbles you can spray some car primer into the top of the can and wait for it to congeal - apply with a cocktail stick or similar.
The advantage of this is you can sand the excess with very fine paper (800/1200 wet and dry)thus reducing the risk of revealing other pinhole bubbles.
Anson
It sets in about 15 minutes too so no having to wait around.
Squadron green is good but it takes longer to set in thick applications and it shrinks very slightly.
For very small pinhole bubbles you can spray some car primer into the top of the can and wait for it to congeal - apply with a cocktail stick or similar.
The advantage of this is you can sand the excess with very fine paper (800/1200 wet and dry)thus reducing the risk of revealing other pinhole bubbles.
Anson
Gigatron
Sr Member
Personally, after years of trying to get it to work, I've shied away from bondo for anything other than smoothing out the surface. I find it doesn't work so well as a gap filler. It's not even designed as a gap filler for it's original purpose, but to smooth out the surface so your paint job isn't all wavy.
For small pinholes, bondo works fine, but for anything larger, I would advise against it. Bondo (or any other automotive filler) is designed to be applied in a very thin (less than 1 mm thickeness) layer. Anything more than that and it becomes brittle and damn near useless. Plus, it has shrinkage issues.
Just my personal experience over the last couple of years, both model building and automotive.
-Fred
For small pinholes, bondo works fine, but for anything larger, I would advise against it. Bondo (or any other automotive filler) is designed to be applied in a very thin (less than 1 mm thickeness) layer. Anything more than that and it becomes brittle and damn near useless. Plus, it has shrinkage issues.
Just my personal experience over the last couple of years, both model building and automotive.
-Fred
RedTwoX
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>(exoray @ May 21 2006, 02:26 AM) [snapback]1247830[/snapback]</div>
I also like Squadron putty for small air bubbles and seems. It's air dry, so if you use it on larger holes/gaps it will take forever to dry and there is a lot of shrinkage. That means it will take two or three applications to build up to the surrounding surface. However, when you only need a little filler, nothing is faster or easier to use. I've used drywall spackle as well. Not bad, but I prefer the Squadron putty.
If you need to fill larger holes/gaps then go with some type of epoxy that cures chemically. You may even consider using a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or plumbers putty.
One product I found at Home Depot and have good success with is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that mixes with water, but it's still a chemical cure. You can mix it to whatever consistancy you need: Thin enough to brush on with a cheap paint brush or a very thick paste. There is very little if any skrinage. Be aware that it is ridged and brittle, so don't use it on anything that needs to flex or support weight. It's fantastic for filling in air bubbles and building up ridge surfaces.
I also like Squadron putty for small air bubbles and seems. It's air dry, so if you use it on larger holes/gaps it will take forever to dry and there is a lot of shrinkage. That means it will take two or three applications to build up to the surrounding surface. However, when you only need a little filler, nothing is faster or easier to use. I've used drywall spackle as well. Not bad, but I prefer the Squadron putty.
If you need to fill larger holes/gaps then go with some type of epoxy that cures chemically. You may even consider using a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or plumbers putty.
One product I found at Home Depot and have good success with is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that mixes with water, but it's still a chemical cure. You can mix it to whatever consistancy you need: Thin enough to brush on with a cheap paint brush or a very thick paste. There is very little if any skrinage. Be aware that it is ridged and brittle, so don't use it on anything that needs to flex or support weight. It's fantastic for filling in air bubbles and building up ridge surfaces.
<div class='quotetop'>(PHArchivist @ May 20 2006, 07:39 PM) [snapback]1247746[/snapback]</div>
I couldn't agree more
Robert
I couldn't agree more
Robert
For really small pinholes get some Gunze Sangyo (sp?) Mr. Surfacer. It's like primer mixed with liquid glue.
For smaller pinholes. I've been using Gunze's Mr Thinned Putty. It's actually putty mixed with a little thinner and works great for pinholes, evening seams, etc and SOOOOoo easy to work with. You can do the same thing with Tamiya putty and thinner available at most hobby stores. The super glue method works but you may have to apply more than once sometimes because of the shrinkage cyanoacrylates have. Mr. Surfacer is good too but sometimes depending on the size of the hole it may start to divit again and you'll have to apply more Mr. Surfacer. Mr. Thinned Putty skips the multiple applications steps. Just one time and it's good.
For larger holes, I use a polyester putty called Mori Mori but Squadron or Tamiya or any other kind of poly putty is good for that, I just prefer Mori Mori. They have a product in Japan called SSP-HG which is basically the super glue/baby powder mixture but it's also a little tough to sand down but it's very durable and great for redoing parts that have details or building up parts. Plus it's purple so you can see the difference between the kit and the putty.
Ryu
For larger holes, I use a polyester putty called Mori Mori but Squadron or Tamiya or any other kind of poly putty is good for that, I just prefer Mori Mori. They have a product in Japan called SSP-HG which is basically the super glue/baby powder mixture but it's also a little tough to sand down but it's very durable and great for redoing parts that have details or building up parts. Plus it's purple so you can see the difference between the kit and the putty.
Ryu
