backbone
New Member
Reptilelover95 wanted some real predator blades, and I decided I would do them for him, then I thought "hey, I should document this and explain my process to anybody else who wants some. So here you go fellow hunters
*NOTEICE - I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES OR HARM CAUSED BY THE BLADES. The tools and blades are dangerous, only attempt if you have proper safety gear and tools for the job. There art many risks.
Now that I have that out of the way, I starred off by getting 2, 13 and a 1/2 inch long, 2inch wide and 2/8 inch thick pieces of mild steel. This can be purchased at Home Depot by an 8ft long piece for about $15. I it my pieces prepared by washing them, then brushing them with a wire brush until they were clean of the milling residue. Then I drew in sharpie the shape I wanted. To make things easier I put them in the oven at about 600 for an hour to normalize the steel. Thi is the longer way to do it but the easiest. The other way would to heat up the steel in a forge and test it with a magnet. Once you have the steel to the pint till its not magnetic and is evenly hated, leave it in a pile of sand to sit and cool on its own overnight. You may have to do this several times if its a harder steel. Now that the steel is softer you will move onto the next stage, I used the method in which the extra mass is removed leaving a rough blank of the blade. To hammer and forge the blade into such shape would be extremely difficult and is not a project for any novice bladesmiths. To remove the extra material you will need a drill, this can be a drill press, or a power drill. I found out that a drill press would make this so much easier. I ended up twisting my wrist using a power drill so be carefully how close you drill the holes. The bits I used were a 1/4 inch masonry bit and a 3/4 inch masonry bit. I ended up breaking the 3/4 inch one being that it the part that goes into the chuck is smaller than the bit itself. It was 1/4 inch at that part. I used the bigger bit to take out bigger areas, and the smaller bit in the smaller areas like the parts where the blade is spiked at. Then when the areas were to thin I would use a hack saw to Finnish of the removal. I'm still currently in this stage so I will update you with everything I do.
*NOTEICE - I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES OR HARM CAUSED BY THE BLADES. The tools and blades are dangerous, only attempt if you have proper safety gear and tools for the job. There art many risks.
Now that I have that out of the way, I starred off by getting 2, 13 and a 1/2 inch long, 2inch wide and 2/8 inch thick pieces of mild steel. This can be purchased at Home Depot by an 8ft long piece for about $15. I it my pieces prepared by washing them, then brushing them with a wire brush until they were clean of the milling residue. Then I drew in sharpie the shape I wanted. To make things easier I put them in the oven at about 600 for an hour to normalize the steel. Thi is the longer way to do it but the easiest. The other way would to heat up the steel in a forge and test it with a magnet. Once you have the steel to the pint till its not magnetic and is evenly hated, leave it in a pile of sand to sit and cool on its own overnight. You may have to do this several times if its a harder steel. Now that the steel is softer you will move onto the next stage, I used the method in which the extra mass is removed leaving a rough blank of the blade. To hammer and forge the blade into such shape would be extremely difficult and is not a project for any novice bladesmiths. To remove the extra material you will need a drill, this can be a drill press, or a power drill. I found out that a drill press would make this so much easier. I ended up twisting my wrist using a power drill so be carefully how close you drill the holes. The bits I used were a 1/4 inch masonry bit and a 3/4 inch masonry bit. I ended up breaking the 3/4 inch one being that it the part that goes into the chuck is smaller than the bit itself. It was 1/4 inch at that part. I used the bigger bit to take out bigger areas, and the smaller bit in the smaller areas like the parts where the blade is spiked at. Then when the areas were to thin I would use a hack saw to Finnish of the removal. I'm still currently in this stage so I will update you with everything I do.
