Very true....you may want to include an exhaust fan or two as well for cooling and such. A little extra room is a good thing...but waaaaaaay too much makes the helm useless. My first helm was scaled for John-117 himself...and despite the fact I am six feet tall that freaking thing was HUGE!!! I probably could have fit a pieced-out laptop in there as well as everything else you need for a helm.
*Snorts* Well....considering all of the augmentations....
Cooling fans, lights, wiring (musn't forget that!), places for batteries (probably AA or C size, most feasible in weight. D size? Only for really heavy duty crap.), a HUD if you can actually program the thing (and if you can, let me know, I'd want to know how, just for like a sensor/detection program type thing), speakers both internal and external, mics, again, internal and external, an air recycling system, so you don't have to suffocate :eek. What else am I missing?
Eh, most of the stuff depending on the helmet I've notices, you could actually imbed into different parts.
An Example:
A regular helm (like what S-117 wears) could hold the lights right were you'd think. The internal speakers would be right next to the ears, and external near where the mouth is. The rebreather would be near the fans, to 1) re-oxidize the air, 2) circulate the recycled air. The internal mics would be near the mouth, but not to close, to prevent it sounding like your sucking on the mics. The exernal mics would have to be multiple places, but hidden, like near the front, but not close to the external speakers to prevent feedback. The HUD is pretty obvious, and the fans and air recycler would be wherever you thought best. The batteries could be placed in the little alcove at the back of the head, hidden by a removeable panel of foam, and the wiring being imbedded either into the helmet itself, or behind the foam. Behind the foam means it can be replaced if the wires get to be bad somehow, but would be less hassle than having to remake a helm with the wires imbedded each time a wire gets to be too stripped.
Sad thing is that I thought about this as I was typing it up.
Believe it or not, Pep work has been more difficult for me than the metal armour I used to make!
Like that's a surprise. Just having done the first part of the Pep work, it's a right Pain In The Ass (P.I.T.A. if you prefer). To be honest, for a real, honest to god go at a helmet I'd only use the Pep as the model. Make the model like you would normally, Pepped, Bondo, etc. Make a negative cast, half at a time, out of, say Plaster of Paris, or some other material, with a Vaseline layer underneath. But keeping the original mold and in a padded box, just in case the negative gets destroyed. No reason to have to go through the whole ordeal again, right? Make a cast from the negative out of Fiberglass. You get the shape of the original mold, but you get some of that extra space as well. Since it's fiberglass, making sure to have a neck seal built around the base, and a little extra padding. This idea was based off of EvilFx's method on his site.
On the plus side, you only have to mess with the Pep enough times to get the fit right, though if it's a bit small in the original, it should be a bit bigger in the end, but better safe than sorry.