cayman shen
Master Member
How does it take detail?
Pepakura: Alternatives to Fiberglass
- Thread starter cayman shen
- Start date
Sorry I never really used it for detailing you'll have to mix up a small batch and experiment with it. I was using up to 30% in the mix and it was very strong when fully dried. Sorry I can't help you any further.:$
cayman shen
Master Member
I just remembered my kids have leftover plaster from this make-a-volcano science kit thing we did, so I can goof around with small quantities of that.
Honestly though, everything I'm reading makes me think I'll have to suck it up and go with the tried and true resin and glassing. But I'm going to fight it until the last breath! :lol I've got a few pepped items I don't mind dying in my experiments, so...thanks for all the input, and if anyone else has a brainstorm, let me know.
I'm going to try to reinfice one piece with hot glue and one with papier mache this evening. I'll post my thoughts later!
Honestly though, everything I'm reading makes me think I'll have to suck it up and go with the tried and true resin and glassing. But I'm going to fight it until the last breath! :lol I've got a few pepped items I don't mind dying in my experiments, so...thanks for all the input, and if anyone else has a brainstorm, let me know.
I'm going to try to reinfice one piece with hot glue and one with papier mache this evening. I'll post my thoughts later!
Sorry don't want to over run your thread. But if you go the paper mache route make sure to use disstiled water or you mache will grow mold eventually form the bacteria in the water. That would be good advise for the plaster as well since it wont be used they way it was intended.
cayman shen
Master Member
That would never have occured to me...good call!
kidUltron
Member
Aqua-Glass is awesome. That said, my fiance's cousin is an auto-body dude. When he heard we were using Bondo as a finisher to smooth out details he not only said "good idea" he also recommended some stuff called something like auto-body mesh. Aparently it can be cut and bent to shape as needed (sounded a lot like fiber-glass sheets in that sense) and that it adheres wicked good to bondo.
Just one more idea for the pot.
Just one more idea for the pot.
CustomPropSculptorGuy
Well-Known Member
Yea, I don't know if it's auto mesh, but what I use for big stuff as an armature, is almost like a steel screen material. Uber thin but I can bend it, it holds its' shape and then I can lay the clay on it.
Shell shock is great, but it's self thickening and you'd need the slow - and to use it in small amounts. Plastipaste is good to, but you wanna go one-part-more on the fiber to the hardener - I think a 4:1 ration is good if you're gonna use it for anything other than a mother mold...
Shell shock is great, but it's self thickening and you'd need the slow - and to use it in small amounts. Plastipaste is good to, but you wanna go one-part-more on the fiber to the hardener - I think a 4:1 ration is good if you're gonna use it for anything other than a mother mold...
cayman shen
Master Member
I know this is expanding it beyond the initial topic I started, but a few weeks back I coated the inside and outside of a pep helmet (I have several going as I experiment) with fiberglass resin. It isn't tacky, but it still stinks. Will that ever go away? If not, it's a deal-breaker. I don't want my display to be slowly killing me. One thing I haven't heard much of to replace the resin coat is using varnishes or lacquers. Can anyone comment on applying those to cardboard as the first stiffening phase?
As far as replacing fiberglass for the actual hardening, I've been using hotglue on some small parts tonight, and it's promising. I've never used bondo, so I'm not sure about its properties in terms of cracking, but there's not nearly as much flex in the glue as I'd feared. It's hard and heavy, and so easy I was literally letting my children do it ("hey, squirt a little in that corner, kiddo! Smear a glob on that spot--you missed it!"). Easy, fume free, cheap, safe as you can ask for (I was using a glue gun and smearing. I wouldn't let my kids muck around with a pot of scalding glue). The glue is speaking to me.
As far as replacing fiberglass for the actual hardening, I've been using hotglue on some small parts tonight, and it's promising. I've never used bondo, so I'm not sure about its properties in terms of cracking, but there's not nearly as much flex in the glue as I'd feared. It's hard and heavy, and so easy I was literally letting my children do it ("hey, squirt a little in that corner, kiddo! Smear a glob on that spot--you missed it!"). Easy, fume free, cheap, safe as you can ask for (I was using a glue gun and smearing. I wouldn't let my kids muck around with a pot of scalding glue). The glue is speaking to me.
kidUltron
Member
After 24 hours it shouldn't have any "fume" or odor. If so then something went horribly wrong (I'm guessing, its never happened to me).
As for a varnish or laquer, Those won't do much outside "sealing" the cardboard as a Clear Coat. It might stiffen it up a little but not enough to hold the form on its own. It would definitely need to be considered a "first." I don't discount it for that though as its what I've done so far and its works well, just make sure you do several small coats instead of a few heavy ones.
Actually no that is wrong, it all depends on what type of resin your using. Is it waxed unwaxed ?
If it's an unwaxed resin it will never fully go tack free as it stays that way to except another layer at any time. I you water sand it (I just use a scuff pad with water) it will take most of the tack off. It will only fully cure and go tack free (the surface) once it's completely sealed (no air). Give it a scuff and a coat of primer/paint whatever it will be good to go.
DreamFusion
New Member
Hey guys, new to the forums and trying to soak up as much info as possible before I attempt anything here.
I was just wondering, I realize that you'd need a respirator during the fiberglass process, but would you still need one after it cures? Is it still toxic?
I was assuming that it was good to go after it cures, but I read somewhere on another forum that it was still toxic? I can't seem to find that thread again and it's just making me curious as I can't find anything to back that statement up.
I was just wondering, I realize that you'd need a respirator during the fiberglass process, but would you still need one after it cures? Is it still toxic?
I was assuming that it was good to go after it cures, but I read somewhere on another forum that it was still toxic? I can't seem to find that thread again and it's just making me curious as I can't find anything to back that statement up.
kidUltron
Member
Depends on what kind you use. I just did some work with Aqua-Resin and Aqua Glass, its not nearly as bad as other resins and glass in the area of being Toxic.
Most of it after being cured isn't toxic... I just wouldn't recommend licking it.
kidUltron
Member
Actually no that is wrong, it all depends on what type of resin your using. Is it waxed unwaxed ?
If it's an unwaxed resin it will never fully go tack free as it stays that way to except another layer at any time.
I did not know this. Much obliged Finhead. I haven't worked with a wide array of resins just yet so my knowledge on em is limited.
DreamFusion
New Member
Thanks for the quick replies guys, much appreciated.
What's the difference between aqua-glass/aqua resin and fiberglass?
What's the difference between aqua-glass/aqua resin and fiberglass?
One works one doesn't. :lol
Seriously I have talked to quite a few that have used Aqua resin with nothing good to say. It's a water based resin, so you make the call.
STEALTH
Sr Member
cardstock paper 110lbs is recommended usually. That's what I use but you can get away with a lower rating.
Fett80
Active Member
Thanks!!
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