Painting Metallic Effect on DL-44 Kit

[Matthew Gresham]

Looking to get the most realistic, accurate metallic effect possible on a 3d printed dl-44 kit from kassaraptor on etsy without an airbrush. I was thinking of graphite rubbing over gloss black base so if you've done that on a prop please drop any pics or leave any alternate suggestions. Also leave any ideas for how I can add strength and weight to the piece

 

[gomcse]

Have you ever used rub-n-buff or Testors buff aerosols? They're both really good.

 

[signeddiamond]

I personally like to fill my printed guns with fishing weights. They can be purchased in a number of sizes and can be dumped in to the areas you want with some epoxy.

90% of the work you do is in prepping. For a nice metallic finish print lines or stepping can ruin the effect (in some cases they can mimic milling marks if aligned right). No matter how much you sand, sand it some more. Black primer is good for identifying imperfections.

Base coat with a metal spraypaint. Chrome or aluminum will work pretty fine. Then going over it with a very light misting of black just to darken it up to a more iron look. From here it all depends on the particular kind of weathering you want done. I like paint chipping and wear so I would gloss clear the whole thing and then apply white school glue to the areas that are to be chipped. Once dry spray on your gloss black in as few coatings as possible while still fully coating. If you go to heavy its going to be that much harder to show wear. Once semi dry (2 hours and not fully cured like the can says) rub on a generous amount of graphite powder. If dry enough rinse the project to remove excess powder and then repeat that step if needed. Peel off the dried glue to reveal chipping to bare metal. To simulate wear take a scotch pad or 0000 steel wool and rub very lightly in the worn areas. As soon as you see silver lighten up to avoid rubbing that off too. Mist with some more black to smooth out any harsh transitions. If you have a smoke spraypaint then use that.


Signeddiamond

 

[VanOaksProps]

I just did a repaint on a rubies Mando blaster and here’s how I did it:

 

[Matthew Gresham]

I just did a repaint on a rubies Mando blaster and here’s how I did it:

I actually watched it while doing my own research of a method to use, it was a big help!!

 

[JSConnolly]

As I have mentioned in other links about this... What I have REALLY Come to rely on is "EPOXY, STAINLESS STEEL APPLIANCE PAINT" for a "Metallic Base Coat"

I've used this on my DV Chest and Belt Boxes and it works GREAT! AND it's EXTREMELY Durable to wear!
This is VERY Important when you do the Main "Color Coat" and want to do the "Paint Chip Effects" and get that "Bare/Exposed Metal" look!

I First lightly sand and clean the piece to be painted. Then I spray 3 to 4 coats of the "Epoxy Paint", letting each layer dry thoroughly BEFORE the next coat.
Once those are done, I don't even worry about sanding it. I just first add the "Chip Effect Agent" like Liquid Latex or "Mustard" as a barrier between the "Metal" and the "Main Color{s} Coats. I usually spray One or Two of this coat to get a good, opaque Effect.

Then, Rub off the Latex or Mustard and... WHA-LA! Perfect and Accurate "Paint Chip Weathering/Wear" Effect!

If you do various "Thicknesses" of the "Barrier Agent" {i.e. Latex or Mustard} then you can achieve the look of either "HEAVY CHIPPING" or "Gradual/Faded" Paint wear.

If anyone has any questions about all of this, PLEASE feel free to ask. I am VERY Glad to help in any way I can!

Also there are TONS of Tutorials on this kind of stuff on YouTube if you look! "Smugglers Room" has done a Complete Tutorial on building a "Resin/3D Printed Blaster Kit".

Again, anyone needing help, Please feel free to message me.



Good Luck.

Joe