OWK Saber Progress

[franz bolo]

I was talking with some people about sealing the finish and they brought up using a "Matte Clear Powder Coat".

This should stop the rusting process if done correctly.

They have to clean all the grease and dirt off, but this might work.

FB

 

[Serafino]

Overkill, IMO, costly probably, and would change the texture if your grenade has a satin shine or better.

 

[lesternessman]

great looking saber so far, keep up with the pic posting...

 

[Exodus]

Hi all, I was just wondering if that was a steel grenade. I am planning on buying a grenade from Roman's and I wanted to know what the best methods were for weathering an aluminum one. Thanks for your help.

 

[gunner]

I have also just purchased a Roman's grenade and just wondering what techniques there are to weather aluminum. Thanks.

 

[Vaapad_VII]

I'm curious about this as well - can an aluminum grenade be chemically weathered to look brown/rusty, or is paint the only way to achieve that effect?

~Dave

 

[Serafino]

Chen grenades (i.e. FB's shown in this thread) are steel.

Aluminum can be blackened using 'Aluminum Black' from Birchwood Casey, with different effects depending on how you execute the technique and what alloy you're using.

But to make it look like steel, with the rich colors, etc., paint is the only way I know of.

 

[Serafino]

I've just been reading up on bluing methods ( ), and anyone interested in weathering their grenade the way Laszlo and Franz Bolo have done should look into 'rust bluing'.

What's especially interesting about that process is that after you rust the part (using specific chemicals for this process) you boil it in water, which turns the red rust black. When you remove the blackened surface rust you find the metal has gotten darker. Keep at it and eventually you get a deep blue-black this way (the particular final color probably results from the chemicals used to get the rust). Read up on the details, I haven't tried this yet myself but plan to.

I highly recommend anyone going down this road experiment on scrap first.

 

[franz bolo]

Great Tip Serafino!

I might try it!

Here's my weathering update. I got some ammonia and poured it onto the grenade while it sat outside in the grass. I did this for 1 week. The weather was about 50 degrees.

FB

 

[Serafino]

Yikes FB, :lol that's looking uh, great.

I know this is the best road to a rich finish but sheese, I thought Laszlo was bad...

Are you going to use very fine degreased steel wool to take off some of the corrosion? I'm very curious to see what's under the green stuff on the brass.

Or will you just wait and see what it does next?

 

[franz bolo]

Just waiting till XMAS..

I'll just let it sit for a while longer and see what happens.

It's been very therapeutic looking after her.


Hey, why degreased Steel Wool? :confused


FB

 

[lesternessman]

...looking good FB...

 

[Serafino]

FB, steel wool is usually lubed to keep it from rusting, which also sadly makes a mess of bluing jobs and other corrosive endeavors. You can buy unlubed steel wool. Don't bother with brass wool as it can leave brass on your steel. It's a tricky world out there.

 

[lesternessman]

Originally posted by Prop Runner@Dec 20 2005, 02:53 AM
Wow - talk about being late for the party. :lol

Awesome weathering job, Tim.  I hereby apppoint you official weatherer of all the 150 steel booster replicas we're going to have made soon. Just hope your yard is big enough and that you don't attract the attention of Homeland Security.

- Gabe

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:lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol

 

[gavidoc]

Cold bluing is also known as rust bluing in a simpler format. If the part is not properly cleaned after you cold blue it (using Birchwood Casey products or anyone else's), you will eventually get a nice layer rust in the blued piece of steel.

Should give you guys just the look you want.

 

[g-force]

Originally posted by franz bolo@Dec 20 2005, 01:40 AM
Here's my weathering update. I got some ammonia and poured it onto the grenade while it sat ouside in the grass.

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You need concentrated ammonia fumes. Pouring on directly doesn't do much.

-G

 

[franz bolo]

2 days later I'm bringing it in for the Holidays!

Here's the pics I just took. The top one is after I scrubbed it with a toothbrush. Before I put it out this time, I cleaned it with MEK to get all the oils off.

G-force, how would you set up the fume trap?

I've been pouring it on directly, but I cover it up during the day with a paint tray. The grass is pretty moist with the ammonia.

The Ammonia has to evaporate so it seems to be working pretty good so far.

FB

 

[lesternessman]

you've got two Chen genades?

 

[Nexus6]

Originally posted by franz bolo@Dec 21 2005, 09:57 PM
G-force, how would you set up the fume trap?

I've been pouring it on directly, but I cover it up during the day with a paint tray. The grass is pretty moist with the ammonia.

The Ammonia has to evaporate so it seems to be working pretty good so far.

FB

[snapback]1141147[/snapback]​

How's about this?



*shrugs*

 

[franz bolo]

lesternessman: Yeah, I wanted one to weather and one for a clean version. Also, one is symmetrical and the other isn't.

I'll use the clean grenade with the new Serafino Booster and the weathered one with an original Booster.

Nexus6: good idea. Can you close the lid, or do you need it to vent?


FB