OWK Saber Progress

franz bolo

Sr Member
Here is what I have so far:

Only the Pommel and the Gear are original. I have an original Graflex and Calculator Bubble strip at home, but for this I used the one that was on my SD Studios OWK.

The grenade is a Chen, and the Emmiter is an Obee1. I also have some Chen Transistors but I have to finish up the clamp before I will add it.

I'll wait till I get an Emmiter before I start to weather the grenade.



FB
 
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Howard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Beautiful, FB. Lovely 'gear.'
Remember to remove the rectangular tab beneath the clamp lever.

Best,

Howard.
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
Originally posted by Howard@Nov 7 2005, 01:13 PM
Beautiful, FB. Lovely 'gear.'
Remember to remove the rectangular tab beneath the clamp lever.

Best,

Howard.
[snapback]1111574[/snapback]​
Thanks for the tip. I have to work on the graflex clamp when I get home. I'm so excited... I have to also take the bubble strip out of the calculator and make a spacer to fit underneath the clamp.

After I finished my EL saber for Halloween, I've been fiending to start another project. :D

FB
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
So I got my Graflex Clamp to work on and cut a piece of Delrin after I measured the space between the grenade and the Booster.

It looked great. I screwed it together and was going to mark the holes where the transistors would screw into and noticed that the spacer isn't long enough. It bumps right up against the booster.

If you don't hollow out the area on the delrin where the Booster nut is, the delrin is only half way covering the hole in the Graflex Clamp.

This makes it real hard to screw the transistor in.

What are other peoples solutions? I was thinking of using a pipe instead of delrin. I just have to find one that's thick enough for the transistors to screw into.



FB
 
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Serafino

Sr Member
FB, you are a pioneer. In the prop world that means: one who gets there first and figures out what doesn't work so the rest of us don't have to. :p

Sounds like boring out the Delrin would be the way to go. It would probably cut ok with a big spade bit actually. How much wall would that leave though, I forget the nut max. diameter...
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
:lol My wife calls me something else like Paininrear.

The nuts max OD is about 1.05 so that gives you about 1/4" wall thickness. The nut is only about 0.25" thick so the hole doesn't have to be that deep.

I used a spade bit to cut the hole through the middle, and I think my neighbor has a 1" bit.

I might end up getting a machined one made that fit's up in the grenade also. that way this thing will be super strong.. :love

FB
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
Some terminology I was told:

I was told buy a collector that the part with the heat sink is called a BEARING, and the Flange that screws in the front is called the BOOSTER.

In the top photo, I didn't use the BEARING at all. I used an SD Studios spacer and clamp and it fit just fine.

FB
 

OldKen

Master Member
only the gear and pommel are real???

what a piece of junk.

ill take it off your hands for 5 bucks, but i couldnt see paying anymore than that. :lol
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
OK, send me your account number and I'll deposit it right in there. :D

I have a real clamp, but not the grenade or the emmiter.

I love the granade I have, and am starting to weather it.

I'll take procress pics, and if it turns out any good, I'll post them.

FB
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
I was inspired by Laszlo's Chen grenade he weathered and couldn't wait to start weathering my own Chen Grenade. Here are some progress pics.

I have 10 pictures/stages so far. I started this last thursday and worked on it during the holiday.

01) I used water and left it outside for a few hours.
02) More water and left it on my window sill outside overnight.
03) After srcubbing it with a toothbrush, I Squirted Lemon Juice on it and let it sit for a few hours then rinsed it off.
04) Wrapped it in a paper towel and soaked it with Lemon Juice overnight.
05) Freshly unwrapped.
06) Dried after I unwrapped it.
07) Scrubbed it with a toothbrush. (not mine)
08) After a better cleaning.
09) Squirted more Lemon Juice and wrapped it at work for 3 or 4 hours.
10) Squirted with more Lemon Juice and let it air dry, then cleaned it with toothbrush.



FB
 
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Howard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Great work.
I like the patterns in the steel.
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?

Howard.
 

BATS

Well-Known Member
bet it now has a nice lemony smell to it too.

LOL



Great job. Funny how a simple thing like lemon acid will age metal like this
muratic acid would do it in a similiar way but I think it might take to much of the metal down
 

franz bolo

Sr Member
Originally posted by Howard@Nov 29 2005, 03:50 AM
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?
Howard.
[snapback]1124411[/snapback]​
Thanks for the comments!

Howard, what is wet and dry?

Here's the whole saber again:



FB
 
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Howard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Originally posted by franz bolo+Nov 29 2005, 04:51 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Nov 29 2005, 04:51 PM)</div>
<!--QuoteBegin-Howard
@Nov 29 2005, 03:50 AM
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?
Howard.
[snapback]1124411[/snapback]​
Thanks for the comments.

Howard, what is wet and dry?

FB
[snapback]1124534[/snapback]​
[/b]
Sandpaper.

EDIT: I know I've mentioned this before, but take the rectangular tab off that's beneath the clamp lever.
Great looking saber.

Howard.
 

phase pistol

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
As awesome as that looks... I'm afraid to start my grenade rusting. Won't it continue to deteriorate? How do you stabilize it to stop further pitting and damage? :confused

I may just paint mine. :angel

- K
 

Serafino

Sr Member
Originally posted by phase pistol+Nov 29 2005, 08:57 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(phase pistol @ Nov 29 2005, 08:57 AM)</div>
As awesome as that looks... I'm afraid to start my grenade rusting. Won't it continue to deteriorate? How do you stabilize it to stop further pitting and damage?  :confused

I may just paint mine.  :angel

- K
[/b]
Just use oil to stop the rust. If you're really worried use a guncare product like Break Free. It will remove much of the rust but should leave the patina. After the initial rust-kill, Renaissance Wax (not just any wax) will keep it just fine--used by museums for swords and guns all the time.

<!--QuoteBegin-Howard
@Nov 29 2005, 01:50 AM
Great work.
I like the patterns in the steel.
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?

Howard.
...or rub with a hammer? (Laszlo's method...) ;)
 
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