OWK Saber Progress

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by franz bolo, Nov 7, 2005.

  1. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Here is what I have so far:

    Only the Pommel and the Gear are original. I have an original Graflex and Calculator Bubble strip at home, but for this I used the one that was on my SD Studios OWK.

    The grenade is a Chen, and the Emmiter is an Obee1. I also have some Chen Transistors but I have to finish up the clamp before I will add it.

    I'll wait till I get an Emmiter before I start to weather the grenade.



    FB
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2013
  2. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    Looks great FB, amazing start on that saber.
     
  3. Lordsandy

    Lordsandy Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    716
    Looking good.

    :thumbsup
     
  4. Killdozer

    Killdozer Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    360
    Ah, that's pretty. Going for a "mint" look?

    KD
     
  5. Howard

    Howard Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,681
    Beautiful, FB. Lovely 'gear.'
    Remember to remove the rectangular tab beneath the clamp lever.

    Best,

    Howard.
     
  6. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Thanks for the tip. I have to work on the graflex clamp when I get home. I'm so excited... I have to also take the bubble strip out of the calculator and make a spacer to fit underneath the clamp.

    After I finished my EL saber for Halloween, I've been fiending to start another project. :D

    FB
     
  7. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    So I got my Graflex Clamp to work on and cut a piece of Delrin after I measured the space between the grenade and the Booster.

    It looked great. I screwed it together and was going to mark the holes where the transistors would screw into and noticed that the spacer isn't long enough. It bumps right up against the booster.

    If you don't hollow out the area on the delrin where the Booster nut is, the delrin is only half way covering the hole in the Graflex Clamp.

    This makes it real hard to screw the transistor in.

    What are other peoples solutions? I was thinking of using a pipe instead of delrin. I just have to find one that's thick enough for the transistors to screw into.



    FB
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2013
  8. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    FB, you are a pioneer. In the prop world that means: one who gets there first and figures out what doesn't work so the rest of us don't have to. :p

    Sounds like boring out the Delrin would be the way to go. It would probably cut ok with a big spade bit actually. How much wall would that leave though, I forget the nut max. diameter...
     
  9. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    :lol My wife calls me something else like Paininrear.

    The nuts max OD is about 1.05 so that gives you about 1/4" wall thickness. The nut is only about 0.25" thick so the hole doesn't have to be that deep.

    I used a spade bit to cut the hole through the middle, and I think my neighbor has a 1" bit.

    I might end up getting a machined one made that fit's up in the grenade also. that way this thing will be super strong.. :love

    FB
     
  10. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Some terminology I was told:

    I was told buy a collector that the part with the heat sink is called a BEARING, and the Flange that screws in the front is called the BOOSTER.

    In the top photo, I didn't use the BEARING at all. I used an SD Studios spacer and clamp and it fit just fine.

    FB
     
  11. OldKen

    OldKen Master Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,850
    only the gear and pommel are real???

    what a piece of junk.

    ill take it off your hands for 5 bucks, but i couldnt see paying anymore than that. :lol
     
  12. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    OK, send me your account number and I'll deposit it right in there. :D

    I have a real clamp, but not the grenade or the emmiter.

    I love the granade I have, and am starting to weather it.

    I'll take procress pics, and if it turns out any good, I'll post them.

    FB
     
  13. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    I was inspired by Laszlo's Chen grenade he weathered and couldn't wait to start weathering my own Chen Grenade. Here are some progress pics.

    I have 10 pictures/stages so far. I started this last thursday and worked on it during the holiday.

    01) I used water and left it outside for a few hours.
    02) More water and left it on my window sill outside overnight.
    03) After srcubbing it with a toothbrush, I Squirted Lemon Juice on it and let it sit for a few hours then rinsed it off.
    04) Wrapped it in a paper towel and soaked it with Lemon Juice overnight.
    05) Freshly unwrapped.
    06) Dried after I unwrapped it.
    07) Scrubbed it with a toothbrush. (not mine)
    08) After a better cleaning.
    09) Squirted more Lemon Juice and wrapped it at work for 3 or 4 hours.
    10) Squirted with more Lemon Juice and let it air dry, then cleaned it with toothbrush.

    [​IMG]

    FB
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  14. clancampbell

    clancampbell Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,160
    Very nice.
    I love a good weathering job and this certainly qualifies.

    Rich
     
  15. Howard

    Howard Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,681
    Great work.
    I like the patterns in the steel.
    Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?

    Howard.
     
  16. BATS

    BATS Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    736
    bet it now has a nice lemony smell to it too.

    LOL



    Great job. Funny how a simple thing like lemon acid will age metal like this
    muratic acid would do it in a similiar way but I think it might take to much of the metal down
     
  17. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Thanks for the comments!

    Howard, what is wet and dry?

    Here's the whole saber again:

    [​IMG]

    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  18. Howard

    Howard Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,681
    Sandpaper.

    EDIT: I know I've mentioned this before, but take the rectangular tab off that's beneath the clamp lever.
    Great looking saber.

    Howard.
     
  19. phase pistol

    phase pistol Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,940
    As awesome as that looks... I'm afraid to start my grenade rusting. Won't it continue to deteriorate? How do you stabilize it to stop further pitting and damage? :confused

    I may just paint mine. :angel

    - K
     
  20. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    ...or rub with a hammer? (Laszlo's method...) ;)
     
  21. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    I was talking with some people about sealing the finish and they brought up using a "Matte Clear Powder Coat".

    This should stop the rusting process if done correctly.

    They have to clean all the grease and dirt off, but this might work.

    FB
     
  22. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    Overkill, IMO, costly probably, and would change the texture if your grenade has a satin shine or better.
     
  23. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    736
    great looking saber so far, keep up with the pic posting...
     
  24. Exodus

    Exodus Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    521
    Hi all, I was just wondering if that was a steel grenade. I am planning on buying a grenade from Roman's and I wanted to know what the best methods were for weathering an aluminum one. Thanks for your help.
     
  25. gunner

    gunner New Member

    Trophy Points:
    3
    I have also just purchased a Roman's grenade and just wondering what techniques there are to weather aluminum. Thanks.
     
  26. Vaapad_VII

    Vaapad_VII New Member

    Trophy Points:
    16
    I'm curious about this as well - can an aluminum grenade be chemically weathered to look brown/rusty, or is paint the only way to achieve that effect?

    ~Dave
     
  27. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    Chen grenades (i.e. FB's shown in this thread) are steel.

    Aluminum can be blackened using 'Aluminum Black' from Birchwood Casey, with different effects depending on how you execute the technique and what alloy you're using.

    But to make it look like steel, with the rich colors, etc., paint is the only way I know of.
     
  28. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    I've just been reading up on bluing methods ( :D ), and anyone interested in weathering their grenade the way Laszlo and Franz Bolo have done should look into 'rust bluing'.

    What's especially interesting about that process is that after you rust the part (using specific chemicals for this process) you boil it in water, which turns the red rust black. When you remove the blackened surface rust you find the metal has gotten darker. Keep at it and eventually you get a deep blue-black this way (the particular final color probably results from the chemicals used to get the rust). Read up on the details, I haven't tried this yet myself but plan to.

    I highly recommend anyone going down this road experiment on scrap first. :)
     
  29. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Great Tip Serafino! :p

    I might try it!

    Here's my weathering update. I got some ammonia and poured it onto the grenade while it sat outside in the grass. I did this for 1 week. The weather was about 50 degrees.

    [​IMG]

    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  30. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    Yikes FB, :lol that's looking uh, great. :p

    I know this is the best road to a rich finish but sheese, I thought Laszlo was bad...

    Are you going to use very fine degreased steel wool to take off some of the corrosion? I'm very curious to see what's under the green stuff on the brass.

    Or will you just wait and see what it does next?
     
  31. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Just waiting till XMAS.. :D

    I'll just let it sit for a while longer and see what happens.

    It's been very therapeutic looking after her. :p


    Hey, why degreased Steel Wool? :confused


    FB
     
  32. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    736
    ...looking good FB...
     
  33. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    FB, steel wool is usually lubed to keep it from rusting, which also sadly makes a mess of bluing jobs and other corrosive endeavors. ;) You can buy unlubed steel wool. Don't bother with brass wool as it can leave brass on your steel. It's a tricky world out there.
     
  34. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    736

    :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol
     
  35. gavidoc

    gavidoc Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    941
    Cold bluing is also known as rust bluing in a simpler format. If the part is not properly cleaned after you cold blue it (using Birchwood Casey products or anyone else's), you will eventually get a nice layer rust in the blued piece of steel.

    Should give you guys just the look you want.
     
  36. g-force

    g-force New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    You need concentrated ammonia fumes. Pouring on directly doesn't do much.

    -G
     
  37. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    2 days later I'm bringing it in for the Holidays!

    Here's the pics I just took. The top one is after I scrubbed it with a toothbrush. Before I put it out this time, I cleaned it with MEK to get all the oils off.

    [​IMG]

    G-force, how would you set up the fume trap?

    I've been pouring it on directly, but I cover it up during the day with a paint tray. The grass is pretty moist with the ammonia.

    The Ammonia has to evaporate so it seems to be working pretty good so far.

    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  38. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    736
    you've got two Chen genades?
     
  39. Nexus6

    Nexus6 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,111
    How's about this?

    [​IMG]

    *shrugs*
     
  40. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    lesternessman: Yeah, I wanted one to weather and one for a clean version. Also, one is symmetrical and the other isn't.

    I'll use the clean grenade with the new Serafino Booster and the weathered one with an original Booster.

    Nexus6: good idea. Can you close the lid, or do you need it to vent?


    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  41. Nexus6

    Nexus6 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,111
    I just sort of sit the lid on top. If your bucket lid creates an airtight seal, it probably couldn't hurt to drill a couple holes in the lid, but somebody more chemically-savvy than me would have to tell you whether they thought it was necessary or not. (I never had any problems though)
     
  42. Serafino

    Serafino Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,671
    Just don't even remotely come close to breathing the concentrated fumes. I doubt you need ventilation, but I also doubt you can avoid some leakage unless you get a pickle bucket or something.
     
  43. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    I brought it in for the holidays, and cleaned it up with some steel wool and scrubbed it with a toothbrush and salt.

    The salt let me get abrasives into the grooves where the steel wool couldn't get.

    The 4th image is just thrown together for the picture.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  44. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    736
    real nice, frank, really nice....
     
  45. Romans Empire

    Romans Empire Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,565
    SaaaWEET. :eek

    Just sink that grenade 1/4" in to the clamp and it will be PERFECT.
     
  46. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Romans, I just threw it together for the pic. It's just sitting on there right now.

    The Brass turned out really nice. The grenade looks good to, but I wish it was all brown. I have some Rust Blue ideas to try next.

    In this picture, it has a white piece of Delrin for a temporary spacer. See below for the metal one I just made.

    FB
     
  47. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    I have been into props for less than a year, but I was looking through my parts drawer and found I had a bunch of extra stuff. I thought I'd post some of it along with the latest version of my saber. I also included an SD Studios Replica.

    I'm almost done with my OWK. I have to get a replica sink tap to finish this one off. I don't want to use the original one yet.

    I made the spacer from a metal sink tube. It works with the booster perfect. I have to add the resistors now.

    Here is what I have for my OWK saber build up.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  48. Darth_Pain

    Darth_Pain Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    510
    :love BEAUTIFUL.

    Obi-wan's ANH lighsaber is one of favorites.
     
  49. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,961
    Sure, here it is:

    These are all the pieces I am using. The part to the right of the clamp is the spacer I cut out of a 1.5" faucet pipe. I did it with a dremel kind of fast so it's not super smooth, but it works just fine because it's level.

    I left the threads on the spacer because I didn't feel like cutting both sides. If I can get a saw, I'll probably cut another piece so that only smooth metal show through the clamp holes.

    [​IMG]


    This is a photo of where the spacer would be placed and how it keeps the booster and grenade separated.

    [​IMG]


    Here is a close up of the inside of the clamp with the spacer already inside of it.

    [​IMG]


    Here's what it looks like with the rod going through all the pieces. I left the spacer hang out on the left side just for the photo.

    [​IMG]


    Everything is fitted like it should be and this much of the thread will be used to attach the emmiter.

    [​IMG]


    All screwed together and ready to go. Here is the tip with the brass nut I used.

    [​IMG]


    Here is a shot inside the back of the booster.

    [​IMG]


    Hope this helps.

    FB
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2008
  50. clancampbell

    clancampbell Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,160
    Where can i get a pair of those transistor washers? They really look the business.

    Oh yeah...your saber is looking amazing too. I love a well weathered Obi.

    Rich
     

Share This Page