OT-1/850 scale Star Trek Enterprise kit from japan!

So C.R., how do you like the WHITE deflector dish light?

It looks either BLUE (activated) or golden (off) in TMP...

I guess a little blue gel behind it would be a quick fix!
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- K
 
I will be hitting the deflector with tamiya translucent blue, but I'm out, as I don't care for the white...Sorry Karl, I forgot, its the resin that is flaking off the UE...On the batteries, you don't have alot of room in the ship body itself, it wouldn't be too hard, besides the swearing and careful planning, but not alot of space to do much modifying, but you could run separate wires out, and do something different, were you thinking of suspending it? It is doable but I prefer to have the models on stands
 
Or a third mortgage, (I hope I got most of the content put back in the threads that inadvertely got edited mysteriously
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Really its a great kit, I recommend it to anyone, as it doesn't have to sit in the corner, waiting to be built a section at a time, while filling and puttying, then painting...and months later, trying to paint the aztec by hand, or walker templates, or frisket
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My kit should be on it's way. It looks like your warp nacelles are drooping. Wonder if there's an easy fix for that?
 
I tried a few different angles, but somehow they end up looking droopy..could be that by using the macro setting on the digital camera, it is distorting it a bit? Also, when mounted on the stand, its at an angle which adds to the problem of getting a good perspective, but unless you really "crush/snap" it into the slots, they will exhibit droop..It does look much straighter in real life
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....
 
I finished my kit last night. It's awesome. I need a recomendation from all you skilled modelers as to what type of filler you would use to close some of these seems. Mine had some I want ti tighten up. What's the best type to use?
 
As for the sensor dish. I have a nice blue LED that I swiped from a light up pen that should work great for that.
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Man I can't wait to get my kit!

To fill seems I generally use Squadron putty but if you don't want to have to repaint it you may want to leave it as it is. I supposed it would be possible to fill and sand then just mix a color that will match the original paint to hide the work done. How bad are the seams anyway?
 
Not too bad. Mine has a poor fit along the main sensor dish running around the circufrence of the secondary hull, some light shines through there making more obvious. I may just get a little putty and use it very sparingly to close the gap. The color won't match but from 2 feet away it won't be very noticable and will look better in the dark with the lights on.
 
I agree with Dean-o on the seams, and I thought about a blue led, but figured I'd have to tear it back apart, and decided on airbrushing the translucent blue on instead, just a bit of masking, and covering up most of the rest of the model..If I had another one, I'd give it battle damage, but decided on the pristine look from TMP and the opening of WOK...but I'd love to see someone "weather" it with phaser and torpedo damage....actually the deflector sections comes off cleanly so no covering up the rest, just a bit of masking
 
It looks airbrushed to me.

Here's a rundown on what I'm doing to mine:
1. 5mm Blue LED behind sensor dish
2. 3mm red/green running lights
3. strobes (fiber optic with white LED source)
5. 5mm White LEDs (internal) for windows and spots (tinted pale yellow to replicate incandescent glow)
6. 5mm Blue LEDs in warp nacelles. (purple/blue tint if I do it TMP style)
7. 3mm Red LED for impulse engines (blue if I decide to do it TMP style)
8. 3mm Blue LEDs for nacelle crystal thingies
9. 3mm blue LED for warp core crystal
10. Fiber Optics w/ Yellow LED source for ALL thrusters, including the ones around the secondary hull near sensor dish and on the ends of the nacelles.
11. Adjusting the color discrepancies on the pylons.
12. MAYBE 3mm red LEDs for torpedo tubes
13. MAYBE battle damage if i decide to do it WOK style...which would explain the blue on the secondary hull as opposed to green and the lack of iridescent white aztecing.

And for sh!ts and giggles, I'll be making a 1/850 Millennium Falcon to fly along side. If my measurements are correct, it'll be about 1.611 inches (40.919mm) long.

I've always wanted an accurate as possible Enterprise, but could never afford to buy an Ole' Smoothy AND the accurizing kits. This is probably about as close as I'll ever get. Maybe I'll buy another one in the future, strip it and paint it myself as well.

I'll be sure to post pictures as soon as I'm done...in 40 years.
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The only thing wrong with this kit is they didn't add any formation lights! Whats a starship with out formation lights??!! I am planning on getting one...maybe two lol..but I defently need to get one so I can use the secondary hull aztecting pattern as a guide to do my ol' Smoothie ERTL Motion Picture Enterprise kit.

Trent
 
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