Olympic class/USS Pasteur model decal placement help please!

[T J]

Hi all. I got this model for x-mas and am waiting on the paint and other supplies for it. In the mean time I'm going over the "instructions" (which are slight to say the least) and the decals are not clear. After much research I've found the placing for most of the decals.

I can't figure out:
5
6
7
8
9


Here is a large pic of the decals (sorry in advance for the thread stretching) - ones in question are circled in red -

I just can't find any pics that show their placement. I could go silly and just put them wherever I think it looks good but I thought I'd consult everyone here first in case someone might know. Thanks for your help!

 

[YenChih Lin]

No. 9 belongs to the recessed side entrance docking port on the engineering hull, which are capsule-like http://www.trekmania.net/the_fleet/utopia/fleet/olympic_pasteur.jpg upper pic, hard to see, but is visible or make a google search on olympic-class.
http://employees.csbsju.edu/rsorensen/modelcitizen/trekships/olympic/pasteur-bowq.jpg
This one shows it better.

I was searching too and came to VFX guy Eric Alba, but couldn't find any clue, where the transporter pads belong nor 5 6 7 8...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alba/sets/72157622007016548/?page=2

Maybe an email to him would help? Also it seems to me that the decals aren't that accurate...

 

[T J]

Much thanks, that was a huge help, great pics BTW, certainly will help. Sad thing is I'm not sure my finished model will look as good as those studio pics, I'll do my best though! :ninja

 

[YenChih Lin]

Is this your first model or did you already built 3 or 5? Maybe I can give you tips, I guess it's a resin model...

 

[T J]

I've been building models for years, but I'm trying to step up my game. Till now the only thing I've done is hand painting but with a new airbrush set I got for x-mas I have a chance to to do it really nice. I've practiced with it a little and "brushed" up on basic methods and cleaning.

I am a bit scared, there are parts I think I may have to hand paint, like the windows and such. If you have any suggestions I would surly appreciate it lemme tell ya.

It is a resin model from Federation Models, not bad. Hoping it turns out decent, if it does I'll show it off around here.

 

[YenChih Lin]

I see, well I think you'll do it very well - what kind of paint do you use?
My favourite is currently water-soluble acrylic paint. Airbrush is such a nice thing, but I would rarely use them, so I didn't invested in them yet... The windows I think can only be handpainted. Either you use a very fine paintbrush with plastic brushs (works great and saves money - the real hair is jut a pain, if you loose the hairs) or toothpicks.

 

[bmused55]

It's a fair bet the transporter emitters (7) are located on the under side of the secondary hull (2 of them) and one on the underside of the sphere. The PAsteur is a medical ship, it stand to reason her transporter emitters will face downward as she would likely conduct mass transport evacuation while in orbit and the emitters need line of sight.

One thing we do know, there are none on the upper (ventral) surfaces as those can been seen with enough detail and none are present.

Here is my take on where the decals should. 5 and 6 I know because I have seen pictures of the model and number 5 is clearly visable at where I mark it to be. Using standard convention, I have extrapolated where No 5 would go, its curve would appear to suggest the marked spot to be the likely place.

 

[Clerval]

Are those the only markings? If so, one's missing... the nameplate that faces forward, low on the main 'hull/bulb'.

 

[T J]

bmused55, I agree it makes sense to have all the transporter emitters under the ship but here is why that might not be...

Here is the top behind the bridge, it looks like there are placements indicators...

Then if we put them under the hull there is this raised part that doesn't seem to want to fit the emitters...

I do agree that at least one should be on the under side... I like the pic with the arrows, thanks! :thumbsup

YenChih Lin, as to what paint I prefer I'd have to say flat enamels. Though for this project I'll be using semi-gloss (I try to avoid gloss whenever possible but dull coat should handle that.) I am getting an enamel thinner for my airbrush, it certainly is an involved process! Is there anything about acrylics you like over flat enamel?

 

[SpyderDan]

as to what paint I prefer I'd have to say flat enamels. Though for this project I'll be using semi-gloss (I try to avoid gloss whenever possible but dull coat should handle that.) I am getting an enamel thinner for my airbrush, it certainly is an involved process! Is there anything about acrylics you like over flat enamel?

You want a smooth glossy surface to apply those decals to. Applying them on top of flat paint is how you get silvering under the decal film. You're right about using a dull coat to get the desired flat finish in the end. For the sake of clean decals, spray the model glossy first.

Get the old tried-and-true Future floor wax, thin it with water, and spray it through your airbrush.

 

[T J]

Ahhhh! See, look at all the great stuff I'm learning at the RPF! Thanks!

 

[bmused55]

bmused55, I agree it makes sense to have all the transporter emitters under the ship but here is why that might not be...

Here is the top behind the bridge, it looks like there are placements indicators...

Then if we put them under the hull there is this raised part that doesn't seem to want to fit the emitters...

I do agree that at least one should be on the under side... I like the pic with the arrows, thanks! :thumbsup

YenChih Lin, as to what paint I prefer I'd have to say flat enamels. Though for this project I'll be using semi-gloss (I try to avoid gloss whenever possible but dull coat should handle that.) I am getting an enamel thinner for my airbrush, it certainly is an involved process! Is there anything about acrylics you like over flat enamel?

I don't think that model is entirely accurate, check out the links to the photos of the studio model, you can clearly see the upper side of the sphere and there are no emitters. Also, the bridge dome is not as pronounced as on this model.

However, if it were my model, I would definately put the emitters on those two rectangular smooth spots for the ease of application!

 

[bmused55]

Are those the only markings? If so, one's missing... the nameplate that faces forward, low on the main 'hull/bulb'.

Number 5. Clearly visible on the decal sheet dude

 

[Clerval]

Wouldn't have picked it for the spot, the curvature doesn't look correct; with the angle in the photo, could be it... but those look like they should be facing dorsal or ventral.

 

[YenChih Lin]

@T_J: no it's just a preference of mine, since I recently discovered them and they were so great, that I just had to recommend them further

 

[Clerval]

I'm going through the few Trek Fact Files that I have with me to try to sort out exactly the last bits... have them all, but unfortunately about 90% are 2000 miles from here... :-( No luck yet.

 

[T J]

Thanks Clerval, 2000 miles is a bit of a trip.

Now the problem is the paint instructions are also a bit vague. Why, oh why is there not some all knowing website that can show me every starship in in close detail with a list of the appropriate paint and the paint scheme. Oh, what I would give.... I guess thanks.

I'm trying to decide if the main sphere and lower stardrive section should be duck egg blue, medium blue or perhaps a mixture of both... I'll eventually need a mixture for the contrast, but that's waaaaaay down the road.

Sadly, Testors forgot my airbrush thinner so I'll have plenty of time to figure it out.

 

[Clerval]

Trying to get a friend to stop by storage, but the FF are so disorganized...

Now the issue you face is this ages-old classic:

Do you paint it as it appears on-screen, or do you try to mimic the actual paint on the model? It sounds like you want to go with the actual model paint job. Maybe as important, you have to take into account your model's smaller scale (smaller than the filming miniature). To do this, your paint will need to be just a bit lighter. The 'scale-effect' isn't as bad when working from model-to-smaller model as when working from real life-to-scale model, but it is something to pay a little attention to. Sometimes instead of lighter, you can just knock down the saturation a bit.

Good luck, more soon if I can get some ref.