Nightwing: The Series - Custom Movie Armor [WIP] - Help Needed

I really like the design you're going for. I've never used latex myself but from what I gather, it will stretch quite a bit more than the task 16 but will be more prone to tearing. I'd recommend doing some small tests before you commit to buying a large batch of what ever you finally decide on for material.
 
Thanks. I will probably just go with the Task-16. Latex, from what I've seen, has a smudgy and rubbery look to it anyways and I want this to be more sleek and modern.


Also, do you know how to get patterns to show under polyurethane like they have in the Nomex survival suit or on Catwoman's suit?

oED4oIll.jpg
 
Thanks. I will probably just go with the Task-16. Latex, from what I've seen, has a smudgy and rubbery look to it anyways and I want this to be more sleek and modern.


Also, do you know how to get patterns to show under polyurethane like they have in the Nomex survival suit or on Catwoman's suit?

oED4oIll.jpg

Maybe they used carbon fiber and a thick resin coat?
 
@Black Mamba, Can't wait to see more from you. btw, is there a way to made the mask without that whole facepaint thingy ?? btw, i've watched the fan-film & its Just Fantastic !! :D
 
Maybe they used carbon fiber and a thick resin coat?

Yeah, that did a lot of great work on the nomex suit. There's layers of work in there. Basically they fabricated something that would be underneath and they wanted to be seen from the outside. So they used a transparent material when casting on top for it. Not sure about the exact materials they used, though.
 
UPDATE:

Okay so production is starting to ramp up on the series and I've gotten together a list of the biggest materials that I will be getting.

So this is what I'll be using on the undersuit:

Red: rayon/polyester knit
Blue: marine vinyl
Gray: 3D spacer mesh

8a86c3wl.jpg


The rayon/polyester knit that I found has a smooth nice look to it and it is a four -way stretch so it is still flexible. The marine vinyl will help add some accents to the neck and let it stand out a bit more. A lot of costumes I see don't include a taller neck because they usually use a shirt as a base.

The 3D spacer mesh I thought would be a good idea because it adds depth and detail under the armor pieces (like in the Dark Knight) plus it helps keep the wearer nice and cool. The mesh areas won't have as much of the armor pieces covering it so it will help with the airflow. It adds some actual tech into the suit :cool

This is what it looks like:

FAB-3DMesha.jpg


3d_spacer_mesh_fabric.jpg


It's usually used as a next-to-skin material in backpack straps and racing car seats. Very comfortable


The non-colored area of the abs is still kind of a mystery to me. I'm thinking something a lot stretchier or a bit thicker but still flexible. The abs need to be able to crumple and bend so that the wearer can still get a good range of movement.
 
UPDATE:

As for the actual armor. After I get a body mold of the actor, I was thinking of hollow-casting the torso with hydrocal. Then sculpt the pieces on it with WED clay. I will make the mold after I'm done with Rebound 25 and cast it with Task 16.

Is there anything wrong with this process or is it an acceptable workflow?
 
I've been doing some research on flexible urethanes that are clear. I think I might use Clear Flex 50, maybe with some So Flex, to make some of the front ab pieces. What I was going to do was line the mold with 3M carbon fiber that I already have and then cast the Clear Flex around it so that the carbon fiber shows through the abs. I'll probably tint the Clear Flex a little bit black so it is not completely clear.
 
This will be the outline for the undersuit.

lu8LM1Vl.jpg


I'll be getting a full body cast of the actor to make sure that the suit will be form fitted for him.

Are there any tips on doing a body cast that I should be aware of?
Make sure your model is comfortable-standing like that isn't too bad normally, but once you start adding plaster bandages, it gets heavy and you will notice, among other things, that his feet will start getting a lot of blood rushing to them! Also, watch body hair-no amount of Vaseline will save him from hair removal-ouch! Also also, have all your bandages pre-cut and more than yourself doing the casting-have someone at the front, and someone at the back.
 
So I've decided on a somewhat final design that I will pursue.

EuwfrTgl.jpg


Each piece will be individually molded and casted. But my question now is should I use the Task 16 or should I go with casting latex like the suit in Batman Begins? Does anyone know the pros and cons of each and what's the difference between casting latex and latex foam?

Mask Making Latex - Bat Black (5 gallon Quantity) - Latex Compounds - Casting Compounds - Flexible - CASTING AND PAINTING - The Monster Makers

This is the link to the casting latex I was looking at.
Casting latex is just an ammonia-smelling liquid that dries quite quickly. If you have a plaster negative, you can pour it in and let it sit for around 20 minutes-that gives the plaster a chance to suck some of the moisture out of it and leave a coating. Then, pour it out and let the remainder dry. Be prepared to make a rig to hold and tilt the plaster cast easily, as doing it by hand will suck!
Latex foam is quite different-it's what they used for Bale's cossies. This way, you have the plaster cast of your actor, on which you sculpt what you want. Then you plaster cast that. Then, you remove the mold and scrape off the medium(usually Chavant or some other clay). This leaves a space between both plaster casts that, on one side, is the side you want visible, and on the other, fits your actor perfectly. Next, you mix up a batch of chemicals into a frothy foam and inject it between both casts. When it sets, you bake it in an oven that you will NEVER cook in. When cooled, you peel it out, trim and paint-done! I suggest the liquid latex route. BTW, the design looks awesome, if I was 20 years younger, I'd do that for the next con!
 
Thanks Looch, I'll remember that for the lifecast.

I've looked into the latex path too. There's a couple of issues that I looked at with latex though. I don't have access to an oven I can use to bake it in and I can't build one because I don't have the space to store it. And although the latex route is tried and true, I want to depart from that and try something a bit new. I also don't want to make a full one-piece latex suit. My idea for this is to have a full fabric undersuit design with the individual pieces on top of it. I know that's probably a lot more work I have to do but I think it will pay off.
 
Thanks Looch, I'll remember that for the lifecast.

I've looked into the latex path too. There's a couple of issues that I looked at with latex though. I don't have access to an oven I can use to bake it in and I can't build one because I don't have the space to store it. And although the latex route is tried and true, I want to depart from that and try something a bit new. I also don't want to make a full one-piece latex suit. My idea for this is to have a full fabric undersuit design with the individual pieces on top of it. I know that's probably a lot more work I have to do but I think it will pay off.
So then don't make a one-piece. I don't think anyone would suggest making a one-piece, it just won't work. Set up barriers-I can point out various areas where you can make pieces. A good bit of ref is to look at the Batman 89 cossies, there is a good set of piecing.
 
Does anyone know of a transparent or semitransparent plastic that's also not rigid? I've been looking at Clear Flex and it might work for what I want but it's also really clear and smooth when casted. Is there anything with a matte finish?
 
A lot of your finish will be determined by your sculpt. Will your sculpt have a matte finish or a shiny/reflective finish? Given that you're planning on working with WED for this, I don't think you can really get a shiny finish with it, anyway.

This is also assuming that you won't be painting the pieces but dying the material before dropping it into the molds. If you plan on painting them, ultimately the paint materials and technique you use will determine your matte or shiny finish.

What made you decide to go with WED clay?
 
I got a small sample from a local shop and I like the consistency of it so I was thinking of just going with that. Is there another kind you recommend for something like this though?
 
It kinda depends on your preference and what exactly you're doing.

WED is great and easy to work with initially. Quick to make up your forms and shapes. And Oil based clay, like chavant NSP soft or med will be harder to work with initially getting your forms and shapes but you can get more detail and cleaner lines with less work at the end.

Basically one is easier at the beginning and the other is easier at the end. I've almost solely used oil based clays and just started trying out WED and loving it. It's probably a good choice, especially since it sounds like this is your first time doing something like this.

Here's some practice work I've done in WED. Not the greatest of shots but it can give you an idea.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=388619784557544&set=pb.273091412777049.-2207520000.1360113614&type=3&theater

FYI, this pales in comparison do what some people can do with WED.
 
It kinda depends on your preference and what exactly you're doing.

WED is great and easy to work with initially. Quick to make up your forms and shapes. And Oil based clay, like chavant NSP soft or med will be harder to work with initially getting your forms and shapes but you can get more detail and cleaner lines with less work at the end.

Basically one is easier at the beginning and the other is easier at the end. I've almost solely used oil based clays and just started trying out WED and loving it. It's probably a good choice, especially since it sounds like this is your first time doing something like this.

Here's some practice work I've done in WED. Not the greatest of shots but it can give you an idea.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=388619784557544&set=pb.273091412777049.-2207520000.1360113614&type=3&theater

FYI, this pales in comparison do what some people can do with WED.

Thanks you've been a huge help and your work is awesome
 
I forgot to say, don't forget that there is some shrinkage with WED as it dries. So it may crack, especially in the thinner spots.

And it's my pleasure to help!
 
Back
Top