New BMF coming

[TronGod]

Wow those do look awesome -- details look really good! :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup I know what Jameth1971 means about rough 3D printed parts. TronGod do they actually feel rough to the touch or even look rough magnified (best seen after primer). Normally 3D parts aren't so photogenic in macro shots -- but there's a way around that --- just don't take macro shots and don't view the model too closely. They do look pretty good in your photos though. Regarding resin vs 3D prints, I'd say whatever texture you have on the 3d prints would just be transferred to the resin, unless the 3D parts are treated (sanding/puttying) first -- which can be a challenge for small details. As for strength FUD is kind of brittle, but I guess there aren't any parts jutting out too far that would be prone to breakage, except maybe the guns. Just handle with care like you would any model.

The 2 front sidewalls look amazing..don't feel rough to me. I paid for the good stuff tho, the ultra fine detail. There is some "FUZZ" on some of the parts that needs some cleaning. Also, like I mentioned there was some "goo" on it as well. The 3rd part I got was the Middle sidewall. This part looks like it's got some texturing going on that looks a tiny bit rough. However this part had the most GOO on it and that makes it look rough as well. After I cleaned it up a bit it looks better. It may be the curved parts are just going to be a tad bit rougher? Something did chip off one of the front panels, but like I mentioned before I have not figured out what yet(suppose thats a good thing)

Anyhow..I took another picture on a dark shirt that was on the floor. You can see the detail a lot better now. Also..I swear that just having the parts out of the baggy for a bit seems to have settled the frosty-ness that was going on and you can see the details more clearly now. (almost like it dried out a bit)

I have ordered the LONG cockpit/radar/new gun/yoke/cockpit/rear sidewalls/other mid wall in ultra detail and will post a photo if someone doesn't do it before I get them. Also ordered the back of the cockpit, but only in normal detail..since that's the one part that I don't think the details are needed.

 

[TronGod]

Here is my quick plan of action of the sidewalls. After looking at some images of the 32 incher it looks like the side walls(not the front 2, but the rear/and middle) are in there kinda deep. Seems to me if I use the front arc of saucer section I can correctly place the sidewalls at the correct depth. Posting a pic in case anyone has their 2 cents to throw my way
The image on the upper left is what we want. The rest of the pic is the hasbro falcon with 2 lines.One showing about where the sidewall is now, and where it (MAYBE) should be moved to..

 

[Chaank]

When ever I drop into this thread I can't help but get a slight feeling of future shock. New product ramping up the new trilogy, 3d printed parts in every size and version you could hope for and resin kits from them to come. This is so awesome! Things have changed so much in the last couple of years. Nice work folks.:cheers

 

[Junk Pilot]

Disregard.

Correct, the cockpit will not be cast in resin by Mike as the 3D print has many pre-drilled holes for fiber optic that would not transfer well to it being molded in resin. Plus, it probably would not be much cheaper if done in resin as the 3D part is rather cheap (all things considered) as is.

Here's a shot of the long nose and short nose by FZ6 with 5mm added to the back.

 

[Jaitea]

Here is my quick plan of action of the sidewalls. After looking at some images of the 32 incher it looks like the side walls(not the front 2, but the rear/and middle) are in there kinda deep. Seems to me if I use the front arc of saucer section I can correctly place the sidewalls at the correct depth. Posting a pic in case anyone has their 2 cents to throw my way
The image on the upper left is what we want. The rest of the pic is the hasbro falcon with 2 lines.One showing about where the sidewall is now, and where it (MAYBE) should be moved to..
View attachment 411114

The sidewalls on this toy/model are designed for putting stickers on.....so really thats where the outermost detail of the 3d printed parts should end up

I'm making my own sidewalls & I'm removing the walls of the model to fit them in,....word of caution though,....make sure to replace the walls with a structure behind so that things don't warp

J

 

[TronGod]

The sidewalls on this toy/model are designed for putting stickers on.....so really thats where the outermost detail of the 3d printed parts should end up

I'm making my own sidewalls & I'm removing the walls of the model to fit them in,....word of caution though,....make sure to replace the walls with a structure behind so that things don't warp

J

Yeah it sounds like a good plan. I think having the side walls back further will make it feel a lot more "TRUE" to the movie. I just wanted to hear from another person before I went to whacking away the sidewalls.However I suppose I should wait for the other sidewalls to show up from shapeways before doing it as well. Are you going to move the main engine panel back too? It seems like the engine panel lines up with the sidewalls if I remember correctly. So if we move them, we are moving the engine panel as well I suppose.(Which looking at the hasbro ship, looks like moving "THAT" part will be more of a pain to do)

Also..I agree that the current sidewalls are where the outermost details of the 3d parts "SHOULD" end up....but I am wondering if the 3d parts actually stick out as far as they should? The one middle sidewall that would be affected by this, that I have, doesn't have any parts that stick out that far..so it seems like the sidewalls are going to be pushed back even further than that.

 

[Jaitea]

Don't know about where the engine panel should end up yet,.....

The Engine nozzles, I might make one and then cast the rest, just copy the style of the FineMolds nozzles

J

 

[TronGod]

Don't know about where the engine panel should end up yet,.....

The Engine nozzles, I might make one and then cast the rest, just copy the style of the FineMolds nozzles

J

You have any good images of those "Nozzles" ?

 

[Jaitea]

This is the nozzles from the FineMolds,.....but fitted to my MPC:

J

 

[TronGod]

That is pretty cool. What are those engine nozzled based off of? Just a quick look at the NEW trailer, it looks like the engines on that one is done with something a lot less detailed, just boxed off areas. This one tho does look cool with no lights even tho... and of course the original is just solid white. I will have to think about the options. Maybe the new movie will finally show the damn thing with the engines off, and up close with the nozzles! Doubt that..and who's kidding who, like I'm going to be able to wait an entire year to find out.

 

[ThrakenSal]

Correct, the cockpit will not be cast in resin by Mike as the 3D print has many pre-drilled holes for fiber optic that would not transfer well to it being molded in resin. Plus, it probably would not be much cheaper if done in resin as the 3D part is rather cheap (all things considered) as is.

Here's a shot of the long nose and short nose by FZ6 with 5mm added to the back.

I was going to order the extended cockpit cone last night but it said not for sale. Is there something wrong?

 

[MoJo Rising]

My two cents on the rear sidewalls. In the picture is my WIP BMF. The sidewalls are kit bashed from an MPC kit. Even a non-rivet counter can tell that the sidewalls protrude too close to the saucer's edge to be authentic. However, I had to weigh the overall success of the project against altering that one detail. To make that section accurate you would have to carve out the existing wall, which is the easy part, and then build a reinforced wall about 10 mm recessed, which is the hard part as it would probably weaken the overall structural integrity of the toy.

I opted to live with this imperfection as opposed to adding 20 hours of work to the project and possibly destabilizing the entire model.

However, this is only my first one. I plan to build two more: one for myself and another for a client. I have ordered the Shapeways walls and we'll see what can be done with them.

Part of me thinks it might actually be easier to extend the paneling on the saucer sections then it would to drill out the sidewalls and build a recessed support.

 

[tek2graphics]

Actually, there's a grill that covers the engine area that's missing on the pic above. Maybe that's the "boxed off area" you're thinking?
Here's what it looks like finished...

That is pretty cool. What are those engine nozzled based off of? Just a quick look at the NEW trailer, it looks like the engines on that one is done with something a lot less detailed, just boxed off areas. This one tho does look cool with no lights even tho... and of course the original is just solid white. I will have to think about the options. Maybe the new movie will finally show the damn thing with the engines off, and up close with the nozzles! Doubt that..and who's kidding who, like I'm going to be able to wait an entire year to find out.

 

[MoJo Rising]

I was going to order the extended cockpit cone last night but it said not for sale. Is there something wrong?

i txted with Tony. it was a glitch. its now for sale. i just ordered one.

 

[TronGod]

My two cents on the rear sidewalls. In the picture is my WIP BMF. The sidewalls are kit bashed from an MPC kit. Even a non-rivet counter can tell that the sidewalls protrude too close to the saucer's edge to be authentic. However, I had to weigh the overall success of the project against altering that one detail. To make that section accurate you would have to carve out the existing wall, which is the easy part, and then build a reinforced wall about 10 mm recessed, which is the hard part as it would probably weaken the overall structural integrity of the toy.

I opted to live with this imperfection as opposed to adding 20 hours of work to the project and possibly destabilizing the entire model.

However, this is only my first one. I plan to build two more: one for myself and another for a client. I have ordered the Shapeways walls and we'll see what can be done with them.

Part of me thinks it might actually be easier to extend the paneling on the saucer sections then it would to drill out the sidewalls and build a recessed support.

I had also thought about extending the panels, but to me that seems like its full of more problems, not to mention it's technically not the problem. I agree its a big deal to change the model this way, but I'm thinking about using some sculp resin to quickly prop up the walls in the new position. I've already reinforced some of the insides with this stuff and a thin layer seems to stick pretty good and makes the model hard as a rock. If it doesn't bug you that much..I agree its not worth it. However...that being said...To me thats one of the reasons this doesn't look right to me. I really thank it will really add a lot to the look of the model. Since i've already blown a wad on the shapeways part, there no not going all out for me at this point.

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Actually, there's a grill that covers the engine area that's missing on the pic above. Maybe that's the "boxed off area" you're thinking?
Here's what it looks like finished...http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/824/hljmfh.jpg

Going by the small image here..yeah thats what I was talking about.... When I clicked on the image to make it bigger..I got an ad for viagra ..Not the kind of make it bigger I was looking for...hehe guess I gotta run the virus scanner now

 

[MoJo Rising]

I had also thought about extending the panels, but to me that seems like its full of more problems, not to mention it's technically not the problem. I agree its a big deal to change the model this way, but I'm thinking about using some sculp resin to quickly prop up the walls in the new position. I've already reinforced some of the insides with this stuff and a thin layer seems to stick pretty good and makes the model hard as a rock. If it doesn't bug you that much..I agree its not worth it. However...that being said...To me thats one of the reasons this doesn't look right to me. I really thank it will really add a lot to the look of the model. Since i've already blown a wad on the shapeways part, there no not going all out for me at this point

That sounds like a great idea. Perhaps you could post some pictures and the procedure. I've never worked with moldable Rezin before and I agree that fixing this detail would add a lot of value to the project.

 

[TronGod]

That sounds like a great idea. Perhaps you could post some pictures and the procedure. I've never worked with moldable Rezin before and I agree that fixing this detail would add a lot of value to the project.

Sure! I will pick some more of it up this week (The resin,..since I just ran out) and hopefully can show you how it turns out. The good thing about sculp resin is that is doesn't get hot, and it doesn't shrink. It's also easy to cut and sand. I was further thinking that I would make some kind of internal wood frame( something simple) and pad it with the resin so it fits perfect to the body. The bit I used so far was to just make the hull not flexible...now of course if you really press on it its going to give(or I should say crack -because its not flexing at this point)..but its reasonable strength otherwise. It does however add some weight....so the more I use, the heavier this is going to get.

 

[MoJo Rising]

Cockpit Lighting.

Does anyone have any experience with these fiber optic light engine kits? it seems like a perfect solution for cockpit and landing lights and not much more $$ than the "Falcon lighting kits" you see on ebay. Do they get too hot to place inside the hull; is the wattage too high? Any feedback would be helpful.

http://www.amazon.com/Strand-Fiber-...&sr=8-1&keywords=fiber+optic+star+ceiling+kit

 

[tek2graphics]

LOL! sorry! I just did a search and found the pic... wasn't sure how the link would display. lol :lol

I had also thought about extending the panels, but to me that seems like its full of more problems, not to mention it's technically not the problem. I agree its a big deal to change the model this way, but I'm thinking about using some sculp resin to quickly prop up the walls in the new position. I've already reinforced some of the insides with this stuff and a thin layer seems to stick pretty good and makes the model hard as a rock. If it doesn't bug you that much..I agree its not worth it. However...that being said...To me thats one of the reasons this doesn't look right to me. I really thank it will really add a lot to the look of the model. Since i've already blown a wad on the shapeways part, there no not going all out for me at this point.

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Going by the small image here..yeah thats what I was talking about.... When I clicked on the image to make it bigger..I got an ad for viagra ..Not the kind of make it bigger I was looking for...hehe guess I gotta run the virus scanner now

 

[Tom1971]

My two cents on the rear sidewalls. In the picture is my WIP BMF. The sidewalls are kit bashed from an MPC kit. Even a non-rivet counter can tell that the sidewalls protrude too close to the saucer's edge to be authentic. However, I had to weigh the overall success of the project against altering that one detail. To make that section accurate you would have to carve out the existing wall, which is the easy part, and then build a reinforced wall about 10 mm recessed, which is the hard part as it would probably weaken the overall structural integrity of the toy.

I opted to live with this imperfection as opposed to adding 20 hours of work to the project and possibly destabilizing the entire model.

However, this is only my first one. I plan to build two more: one for myself and another for a client. I have ordered the Shapeways walls and we'll see what can be done with them.

Part of me thinks it might actually be easier to extend the paneling on the saucer sections then it would to drill out the sidewalls and build a recessed support.

Maybe one of our shapeways masters can make new base panels that sit back the correct amount and still support the model??????? The you would just need to cut out the originals and set the new ones in. Seems much simpler than the amazing work already done.