New BMF coming

[samster27]

Mojo Rising has just kindly sent the panel sticker templates via email. Mojo, you are a gentleman and they look great. Off to get some label paper to play with them.

Cheers Mojo :thumbsup Top Man

 

[Jaitea]

Thanks a lot! Ample info! Also visit my web site

Hey!! are you sayin my bird's got cellulite????

J

 

[TronGod]

Hey!! are you sayin my bird's got cellulite????

J

He is saying you have Ample Info!

- - - Updated - - -

JEEZ, don't say that....I've just bought my paints :eek

Hhehe..no really you can learn a lot from failed attempts. Just wondering how the paint holds up on these. It may look awesome for a few weeks..but how is week 3? ...Soft plastic and paint...I foresee some possible cracks coming If I had a money tree in the back yard I'd just mold/cast to resin the whole damn thing.. but that aint going to happen.

 

[samster27]

I have an idea.....why dont you slide down a razor blade banister into a pool of acetone?

Every time I read this it makes my eyes smart

 

[robn1]

Hey!! are you sayin my bird's got cellulite????

J

Well her nickname is "pork burger", just sayin'.

 

[blakeh1]

Thanks for the templates MojoRising!

 

[Montagar]

Guys, please don't quote posts made by spammers as it makes clean up more difficult... ok, ok, since we don't want to deprive anyone of the opportunity to make a joke, please at least remove the hyperlink from the quote. :lol

 

[Harris 98]

THANKS MojoRising for the Falcon stencils!!!........I wish Shapeways was as kind as you sir! LoL

 

[Caladonis]

MoJo Rising - Thanks for the templates!

 

[tek2graphics]

Thanks for the template!!! :thumbsup

REMINDER - I have surface panel stencils

It's been buried in the thread several pages back so i thought I'd repost. I have a file that contains stencils of all the missing panels. They are printed in reverse. So you print them out on label paper and peel-n-press them onto .15 sheet plastic. Cut and past on the BMF. The results worked flawlessly for me. See pics

There is no charge for them. I am giving them away. Just email me directly at melvillejosh@gmail.com

In the spirit of cooperation I am looking for a scan of the JBOT decals for he 1/48 scale Falcon. JOBT is kaput.

 

[Lear60man]

Good Job on the stencils Mojo! I took the easy route, but thanks for making them for the group!

Montager, I love the little alert balloon next to my name. It lets me know when I do stupid things during my 'Margarita Moments' from the night before. If only I had alert balloons in the real world......my dog cant talk.

 

[LrdSatyr8]

I was using MagicSculp. (two-part epoxy putty)
They recommend you use a thin coat of glue when using with plastic.I didn't so far and its stuck in there pretty darn good..however..I can see if you pushed hard on the plastic it would tend to want to pop out..Tho apply enough pressure your going to break anything. The 2 spots I used it on are pretty solid. When I cut the sidewalls out, it did slightly come loose at the edges, but easy to slide some glue in there and make it good. I think the key is here, the more nooks you get this stuff pushed into, its going to want to lock into place and not come out.

Hey guy... I'm a big supporter of MagicScuplt... this stuff is awesome and has a pretty long shelf life too. But I would definitely recommend using the thin coat of glue on one side in the spot you used it in. I thought the same thing you did, but something I discovered is that this stuff has a very slight shrinkage when it cures. Without the glue to anchor it, it will end up popping off the plastic or at the worst crack into two pieces. I did a inner door on a Dolerean with it and while i was painting it just popped off the plastic with very little force.

 

[kokkari]

There has been little mention of it but I assume everyone is cutting off the horrific landing gear.

Here is what I did with mine. They are held on magnetically so I can make some interchangeable landing gear with flaps.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

Hey guy... I'm a big supporter of MagicScuplt... this stuff is awesome and has a pretty long shelf life too. But I would definitely recommend using the thin coat of glue on one side in the spot you used it in. I thought the same thing you did, but something I discovered is that this stuff has a very slight shrinkage when it cures. Without the glue to anchor it, it will end up popping off the plastic or at the worst crack into two pieces. I did a inner door on a Dolerean with it and while i was painting it just popped off the plastic with very little force.

Hmm, sounds interesting. I'm a big supporter of Apoxie Sculpt, myself, but have you tried it and what would you say is the difference between the two?

 

[Gordon Gekko]

REMINDER - I have surface panel stencils

It's been buried in the thread several pages back so i thought I'd repost. I have a file that contains stencils of all the missing panels. They are printed in reverse. So you print them out on label paper and peel-n-press them onto .15 sheet plastic. Cut and past on the BMF. The results worked flawlessly for me. See pics

There is no charge for them. I am giving them away. Just email me directly at melvillejosh@gmail.com

In the spirit of cooperation I am looking for a scan of the JBOT decals for he 1/48 scale Falcon. JOBT is kaput.

Another +1 on the thanks. Very kind and helpful.

 

[TronGod]

Hey guy... I'm a big supporter of MagicScuplt... this stuff is awesome and has a pretty long shelf life too. But I would definitely recommend using the thin coat of glue on one side in the spot you used it in. I thought the same thing you did, but something I discovered is that this stuff has a very slight shrinkage when it cures. Without the glue to anchor it, it will end up popping off the plastic or at the worst crack into two pieces. I did a inner door on a Dolerean with it and while i was painting it just popped off the plastic with very little force.

The full text of what they recommend is this (for everyone else)
Prior to applying MS to any plastic, I recommend that you prepare the plastic with a thin coat of an appropriate glue, i.e. plastic cement for model kits, PVC glue for PVC, acrylic glue for acrylic plastic.This has the effect of breaking up the molecules of plastic and allowing the MS to bond at the molecular level. It's really quite effective. You may also drill some "capture" holes for the MS to grab onto.

To be honest I didn't know about doing the glue layer until recently. With the falcon the bits I did do were large and tuck into and around the support tabs..so its in there pretty good. The one place it popped off a bit was on the thin edge- but this is mainly because I've been trying to cut out chunks of the falcon and the flipping the body over and over is a bit rough on it. The nice thing is it will be real easy to slide in some glue to keep what I've got. Anything else I do I will be doing the glue layer tho. The falcon is soooo flexible and the magicsculp is rock hard....the sculp will pop out before the plastic breaks

Agree this stuff is AMAZING... You can thin it out with water and work it so easily up front. You can almost get a perfect flat edge on something with no sanding...then of course when its dry..it sands super good. It also cuts pretty easy with a knife, yet its pretty solid.

One other thing I didn't know....if its going to be hit by UV Light, they say you should paint it.

 

[samster27]

Has anyone tried using squadron green stuff filler on the BMF plastic? Just in case any gaps need filling etc. If not, what fillers have been used successfully?

 

[spacebob]

Its choppy time for the rear side walls, I’ve been putting it of for about a week but it turned out to be less trouble than I thought it was going to be


First I cut right tight to the back of the wall itself.


Then cut the whole thing away neatly keeping the line that is there as there is a similar line on the real studio scales.


On the top part I cut back 3mm to give a new flat back.


On the bottom part its already stepped back 1mm to let the original wall fit so I only cut back 2mm on that piece to give the same flat back.


This gives all in a further recess of 4mm which is as far as I dared to go because I want the screws to still work and besides it looks about right to me.
It seems like it is going to weaken it but if you are careful to not go to far it is quite strong once it is back together.


And the scratch built sidewall it fits in nice and snug,
I will strengthen the remaining panel areas but not until I have finished all adjustments as it bends to easy at the mo when cutting.

Not to shabby, three more to go.

 

[tek2graphics]

BEAUTIFUL!!! Cant wait to get to mine! :thumbsup

Its choppy time for the rear side walls, I’ve been putting it of for about a week but it turned out to be less trouble than I thought it was going to be

View attachment 414425
First I cut right tight to the back of the wall itself.

View attachment 414426
Then cut the whole thing away neatly keeping the line that is there as there is a similar line on the real studio scales.

View attachment 414427
On the top part I cut back 3mm to give a new flat back.

View attachment 414428
On the bottom part its already stepped back 1mm to let the original wall fit so I only cut back 2mm on that piece to give the same flat back.

View attachment 414429
This gives all in a further recess of 4mm which is as far as I dared to go because I want the screws to still work and besides it looks about right to me.
It seems like it is going to weaken it but if you are careful to not go to far it is quite strong once it is back together.

View attachment 414430
And the scratch built sidewall it fits in nice and snug,
I will strengthen the remaining panel areas but not until I have finished all adjustments as it bends to easy at the mo when cutting.

Not to shabby, three more to go.

 

[spacebob]

Thanks,
thought I'd show the process as it helps in taking out the guess work if anyone else wants to have a go