Nerf Scout Trouper Blaster Repaint

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
That's the plan, but I'm waiting until I get the transistor to make sure it's in scale with the Nerf toy.
i ordered 2, hopefully they fit over the factory one. trying to find replica scopes, i really like the clear tip
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

he's got a whole scope setup! wicked affordable too!
 

Mara Jade's Father

Master Member

he's got a whole scope setup! wicked affordable too!

I'd go for a total scope swap if someone came up with a good way to mount it to the nerf.
 

The Goon

Active Member
would love to find a clear cap for the scope...
Which end of the scope? I'm planning on closing the front end of mine with a piece of sheet styrene since the "scope" on the actual props is solid, but I haven't decided about the back end yet. This is just going to be a fun project for me, doing a little accurizing and not getting all worked up about complete accuracy or authenticity. I don't cosplay so this will very likely end up being a shelf queen.
 

The Goon

Active Member
I screwed up so I'll just post this here--a question about weathering. Is anyone thinking of base-coating their Blaster with either off-white or silver before painting it black so that it looks like either the resin prop or the metal "real life" weapon underneath when the black paint rubs off?
 
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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Which end of the scope? I'm planning on closing the front end of mine with a piece of sheet styrene since the "scope" on the actual props is solid, but I haven't decided about the back end yet. This is just going to be a fun project for me, doing a little accurizing and not getting all worked up about complete accuracy or authenticity. I don't cosplay so this will very likely end up being a shelf queen.
for the price i think im just going to grab a field marshall scope for it. measuring up the orange part in the back of the blaster to try and replace it with a "slug" so its easier to fill and sand, do away with the pull/cockying mechanism
 

13doctorwho

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I would guess that you should putty the backside behind the molded transistor before grinding it off incase the plastic is too thin. I guess the real transistor would cover it, but I would want to make sure the handle is still strong.
 

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Not to be the bearer of bad news but the transistor on the nerf handle is oversized, so you'll have to sand it off (since the handle is oversized, the transistor was scaled up too). The TO-3 package is just over 1.5" long by about 1" wide. Depending on how crazy y'all want to get, you could always model one to scale up and print:

1642727724909.png
 

Mara Jade's Father

Master Member
update on the left.

1D65F9EB-9941-4389-9FB3-426C4F391891.jpeg

A8210C25-A182-4ACA-89BF-56CA97B7CDE3.jpeg

E5514F2C-0B02-4B8A-BB90-2E729934747F.jpeg


I can tell the nut is not as wide but hard to tell unless you have something to compare with. Not sure if it is the new design or something I did but the new nozzle is not allowing the two side to join properly. Also for printing purposes, I miss the dome interior.
 

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