My new K2 Luxeon Lightsaber

[Corbin_Das]

This is the last saber in a series of sabers I have supplied to a friend for his production of a stage show called Balance of Power. This last saber is the Light Master's personal one.

It uses a K2 Luxeon and a sound module from an Anakin FX saber. There's a recharge port that also doubles as a kill switch. You just insert a plastic "key" (crystal?) and it cuts the battery's connection to the saber. The saber's balance point is right where the blade leaves the emitter.

Here's a few pics:

Yes, they really shoot, and no, they aren't Airsoft. :love



Corbin Das

Corbin@CorbinsComponents.com

Corbin's Components

 

[Darth Domain]

Have you made those hilts from scratch, if so, have you attempted any Vader version at all. Are the LEDs brighter than the MR versions?

 

[The Manlet]

<div class='quotetop'>(Darth Domain @ May 24 2006, 03:43 AM) [snapback]1249597[/snapback]</div>

Have you made those hilts from scratch, if so, have you attempted any Vader version at all. Are the LEDs brighter than the MR versions?
[/b]

way brighter

 

[Darth Domain]

I want one

 

[nae1000]

i have a couple of star III luxeons in green and amber and to be honest am not that impressed with them, they photo great but don't stand up to any other light source very well. in pitch black they look good but still not a match for force fx, are your K2 luxeons any better? really?

 

[FalconV8]

Yes, they really shoot, and no, they aren't Airsoft. :love

Corbin Das





Is that a Feather Aluminum? I have a 22 Feather, great little gun........
Is that 22, 9m or 45?

CM







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[The Manlet]

well for my money the hyperbalds look promising http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/hyperblade/main.php

 

[Corbin_Das]

Hi guys
There's more than one type of Luxeon saber out there. Batteries, LED wattage, blade construction and whether or not it's using a dedicated amperage regulator to get the brightest LED possible all contribute to making an OK Luxeon saber into a great one. A direct drive saber (LED with a resistor and a switch) aren't nearly as bright as a saber that uses Pulsed Width Modulation (or PWM) to light the LED. So understand that some Luxeon sabers will be brighter or dimmer than others.
For the money, I prefer Lightsaber blades that cost $25.00 to $40.00 with no electronics inside them over the more expensive units WITH electronics in them. But others might like the LED array type blades. Having not seen one in person (except for the FX blades), I'll let those who HAVE comment on their brightness and durablity. As was said, pictures can make for misleading representations.
I have a Luke ROTJ FX saber and I like it's brightness. But I like the K2 blade better. While the very tip of the Luxeon blade might not be as bright as the FX saber, there's never going to be a broken wire and dark spots in the Luxeon blade after dueling with it.
Oh, the Feather is a 9mm, the M11 is an RPB in .380 cal and the large monster in back is Browning belt fed in 30-06. All are functional, though the Browning is a Semi auto, not a full auto. With the cost of 30-06 ammo, that's probably a good thing. :lol

Corbin

 

[Boba Frett]

I like the design

 

[Corbin_Das]

<div class='quotetop'>(Boba Frett @ May 24 2006, 09:33 PM) [snapback]1250157[/snapback]</div>

I like the design
[/b]

Thanks Boba
I kinda thought that it would be too nose heavy when I first stepped back and looked at the design. It was made with dueling in mind, so the thin grip (1" OD with O-rings making it just under 1.25 OD) and narrowed choke point behind the emitter head was something I wanted. The rubber hand cushion behind the emitter head makes for a comfortable grip for the lead hand too.
The balance point is right where the blade exits the emitter. With a shorter blade, like maybe 30", the balance point moves back to the rubber hand guard area. This saber is using a thick walled polycarb tube with double wrapping of blade film and a shouldered tip to keep it in place.
My main complaint is that the sound isn't as loud as I would have liked. Since there's no resonation chamber for the speaker, the FX board's sound doesn't amplify. Cupping your hand over the speaker makes it louder. Future versions will have a resonation chamber. Maybe I'll make a resonator cap for this one too. Who knows.

Corbin

 

[Phayze]

it warms my heart to see a saber-maker who understand the value of balancing the weapon properly.

 

[GeneralMayhem]

I don't understand why you would use the crystal as the kill switch. I would think you'd want the saber to work when the crystal is IN the saber?


~ GM

 

[Corbin_Das]

Phayze,
I've been a member of a Medieval re-creation group called the SCA since 1989. I routinely fight with rattan swords. spears, axes and such as well as fencing with rapier, dagger, cloak and other items. I understand that a weapon that carries all its weight in the blade (or in the pommel for that matter) won't be able to be used as efficiently as one that is balanced closer to the lead hand. Some items (like an axe) relies on the weight to "plow through" the opponent's guard, but recovery is slow. Anyway, I generally try to keep my sabers balanced near the emitter or slightly behind it.


GM,
I used the term "crystal" for the plastic stick piece that went in the recharge port. I agree that it would make more sense to have to insert the crystal to have the saber work than it does to shut the saber off. Perhaps the term "deactivation key" might have been a better choice.


Corbin

 

[GeneralMayhem]

If it's possible, I would suggest setting up the crystal so it's never "removed" at all. Instead. Set it up as a pushbutton activator. Push the crystal into the saber to activate it...the crystal glows when the saber is on, push again to raise the crystal back out of the body of the saber, and it shuts off.


~ GM

 

[Corbin_Das]

<div class='quotetop'>(GeneralMayhem @ May 26 2006, 06:38 PM) [snapback]1251340[/snapback]</div>

If it's possible, I would suggest setting up the crystal so it's never "removed" at all. Instead. Set it up as a pushbutton activator. Push the crystal into the saber to activate it...the crystal glows when the saber is on, push again to raise the crystal back out of the body of the saber, and it shuts off.


~ GM
[/b]

That's a cool idea. Maybe I'll try incorporating it into a future design. I've seen a couple sabers with a viewport that had a crystal inside that lit up, but nothing where it came out to deactivate the saber. I'm not quite sure how you'd do it, but I like the concept.

Corbin

 

[WookieeGunner]

For an "activation" crystal, you could set a small SMT switch on the far wall of the lightsaber and then use the crystal as a "stick" to reach through the lightsaber to push it.

BTW, which is brighter a K2 or a 3 Watt?

 

[Darth Lars]

Good thinking on saber ergonomics, Corbin Das. :thumbsup

The lumens ratings on Lumileds' website confuse me, the text and tables give different numbers.
And I assume the radiation pattern is equally important. A direct side-to-side comparison would help.

Btw, Corbin Das: Have you done any experimentation with differently shaped mirrors at the tip yet? My hypothesis is that there would be a specific mirror-shape for each LED type that is optimal for spreading the light evenly across the blade.

 

[Corbin_Das]

<div class='quotetop'>(WookieGunner @ May 27 2006, 08:12 AM) [snapback]1251602[/snapback]</div>

BTW, which is brighter a K2 or a 3 Watt?
[/b]

Hi Gunner
The K2 is brighter in green, blue, white, royal blue and cyan. The 3 watt is brighter in red, red/orange and amber.

Lars,
I've experimented with different shaped reflective surfaces for a while now. A convave tip works pretty well, but they are a pain to make. A regular flat tip is easiest and having the reflective film not quite go all the way to the edge keeps from sidespill and having the "bloom" of light at the tip. That's not a "secret" per se, but I haven't really shared that much. The type of reflective material makes a difference too. 3M OLF gives major blooming if left too large, but it reflects the light well. Chrome tape works well for most applications, but it also depends on the lens degree and the length of the blade. Getting all these factors accounted for to make the brightest blade with the most even light distribution and without the blooming at the tip is where blade making is part art, part science. Lots of trial and error there.

Corbin

 

[Hermes]

I´m putting together a Luxeon Saber, so this information is very important to me too...