My completely finished training remote
- Thread starter Gigatron
- Start date
DL 44 Blaster
Sr Member
VERY nice.. The floating factor is uber cool.
The Manlet
Sr Member
that is not bad at all.
Have you thought of using a fishing line on the bottom instead of the bar on top?
Would be more floaty to the naked eye.
Nick
Would be more floaty to the naked eye.
Nick
Atin_TX6203
New Member
Wow, that looks awesome.
Great work
Great work
Smiling Demon
Sr Member
I love it..
You know, you are gonna have to post a how-to on this, right?
Very cool indeed.
and now we chant...tutorial..tutorial..tutorial..tutorial..tutorial
You know, you are gonna have to post a how-to on this, right?
Very cool indeed.
and now we chant...tutorial..tutorial..tutorial..tutorial..tutorial
Drago Lordist
Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>(AnythingSciFi @ Jul 3 2006, 01:26 PM) [snapback]1273317[/snapback]</div>
:lol :lol nice
very cool gig, very cool...
:lol :lol nice
very cool gig, very cool...
Gigatron
Sr Member
Thanks agin, everyone
Hey Nick, y'know, I've been thinking the same thing for the last couple of weeks but have been sidetracked by other projects. Now that you've reminded me of it, I may have to give it a shot over the next couple of days. It's just going to be some trial and error of getting the best length. I want something that will have a nice gap between the remote and the stand, but not so big that the slightest breeze will knock it loose.
SithLord, there's a 127 lb pull rated rare earth magnet in the remote and an electromagnet in the top of the stand. The only thing that's keeping this project from working is finding a balance between the magnet strengths. I've tried over a dozen different rated magnets - I just can't find anything that works correctly. My feeling is, it's a problem with the base's microcontroller not being callibrated for the increased weight of the remote.
ASF, here's a real simple tutorial:
1) buy the parts from a member on the board
2) spend weeks trying to figure out magnetic levitation while working on the assembly of the remote halves
3) run experiment after experiment with different magnets and counterweights while pulling your hair out
4) realize it just won't work and accept your failure
5) complete assembly, paint and weather
:lol :lol :lol
But seriously, Brundlefly has an interest thread in the scale modeling forum for the greeblies (you'd have to purchase the sphere halves seperately) http://www.therpf.com/index.php?...0&#entry1272371 and then go to Frank' site http://www.hobbymatrix.com/ , click on MODELS and look at the awesome building tutorial for the remote. It was helpful beyond belief.
If I get the fishing line trick to work out, I'll post some new pics in the next couple of days.
-Fred
Hey Nick, y'know, I've been thinking the same thing for the last couple of weeks but have been sidetracked by other projects. Now that you've reminded me of it, I may have to give it a shot over the next couple of days. It's just going to be some trial and error of getting the best length. I want something that will have a nice gap between the remote and the stand, but not so big that the slightest breeze will knock it loose.
SithLord, there's a 127 lb pull rated rare earth magnet in the remote and an electromagnet in the top of the stand. The only thing that's keeping this project from working is finding a balance between the magnet strengths. I've tried over a dozen different rated magnets - I just can't find anything that works correctly. My feeling is, it's a problem with the base's microcontroller not being callibrated for the increased weight of the remote.
ASF, here's a real simple tutorial:
1) buy the parts from a member on the board
2) spend weeks trying to figure out magnetic levitation while working on the assembly of the remote halves
3) run experiment after experiment with different magnets and counterweights while pulling your hair out
4) realize it just won't work and accept your failure
5) complete assembly, paint and weather
:lol :lol :lol But seriously, Brundlefly has an interest thread in the scale modeling forum for the greeblies (you'd have to purchase the sphere halves seperately) http://www.therpf.com/index.php?...0&#entry1272371 and then go to Frank' site http://www.hobbymatrix.com/ , click on MODELS and look at the awesome building tutorial for the remote. It was helpful beyond belief.
If I get the fishing line trick to work out, I'll post some new pics in the next couple of days.
-Fred
Gigatron
Sr Member
Well, I think I just had my eureka moment. That special time in a young man's life when he realizes the possible answer to a burning question.
All this time, I've been trying to figure out a way to levitate the remote using the single magnet theory - Why? The possible answer is so simple I feel like a complete idiot only figuring it out now.
Instead of using a single pair of magents at the top and adding counterweights to pull down, why not just duplicate what's on the top, on the bottom? Have a pair of attracted magnets at the bottom so that they pull towars each other while the top magnets are pulling towards each other in the opposite direction. Sure it would take a lot of expreimentation to get the ratios correct, but the result would be a truly hovering remote. Theorertically it could rotate forever, uninterrupted.
I hope someone can test this theory out, because unless someone is willing to give me another remote kit, there's no way I can afford to try it.
If anyone gets a remote kit, let me know and we'll work on it together (well the theory part, you'll have to build it yourself :lol )
-Fred
All this time, I've been trying to figure out a way to levitate the remote using the single magnet theory - Why? The possible answer is so simple I feel like a complete idiot only figuring it out now.
Instead of using a single pair of magents at the top and adding counterweights to pull down, why not just duplicate what's on the top, on the bottom? Have a pair of attracted magnets at the bottom so that they pull towars each other while the top magnets are pulling towards each other in the opposite direction. Sure it would take a lot of expreimentation to get the ratios correct, but the result would be a truly hovering remote. Theorertically it could rotate forever, uninterrupted.
I hope someone can test this theory out, because unless someone is willing to give me another remote kit, there's no way I can afford to try it.
If anyone gets a remote kit, let me know and we'll work on it together (well the theory part, you'll have to build it yourself :lol )
-Fred
That mono line is almost invisible. Looks much better. :thumbsup
Drago Lordist
Well-Known Member
VERY nice. I had the same thought when I first read about the project but I couldn't post then and thought maybe a reason was given earlier lol sorry
PHArchivist
Master Member
<div class='quotetop'>(Gigatron @ Jul 4 2006, 01:36 AM) [snapback]1273629[/snapback]</div>
Now THAT is very cool. First thing folks will look for is the line on the TOP....
Paint the monofilament line black if you haven't already...
Well, thanks to Nick Daring's reminder, I went and did the fishing line conversion.
Here is the pic:
Enjoy
Thanks to WC for hosting
-Fred
[/b]
Now THAT is very cool. First thing folks will look for is the line on the TOP....
Paint the monofilament line black if you haven't already...
Now that looks sharp.
Does it spin freely as is?
Nick
Does it spin freely as is?
Nick
Gigatron
Sr Member
Thanks, guys
PH, I'm concerned that if I do, it'll stand out too much against the base. I do, however, want to try giving it a thin layer flat-cote (Testors' brushable dull coat) to maybe kill the refelctivity of the line.
Nick, It'll spin in one direction until the line winds up and then spin in the other direction as the line unwinds. The only way I was able to get the exact length was to use a nail under the base. I tried tying knots but the line ended up being too long or too short. I took a 1" finishing nail and just tied the line with a rolling hitch knot. It allowed me to adjust the length of the line and the tension will keep it from coming undone.
Jedichef, I've toyed with the idea of a flying remote. I looked at those small, indoor R/C helicopters for a while. After looking at hundreds of those things, I figured the remote would need something along the lines of a 3' - 4' rotor span. But man, that would've been sweet.
Thanks Drago . Maybe it's destiny that things work out the way did. But next time someone wants to give it a try, all the failures should already be worked out.
-Fred
PH, I'm concerned that if I do, it'll stand out too much against the base. I do, however, want to try giving it a thin layer flat-cote (Testors' brushable dull coat) to maybe kill the refelctivity of the line.
Nick, It'll spin in one direction until the line winds up and then spin in the other direction as the line unwinds. The only way I was able to get the exact length was to use a nail under the base. I tried tying knots but the line ended up being too long or too short. I took a 1" finishing nail and just tied the line with a rolling hitch knot. It allowed me to adjust the length of the line and the tension will keep it from coming undone.
Jedichef, I've toyed with the idea of a flying remote. I looked at those small, indoor R/C helicopters for a while. After looking at hundreds of those things, I figured the remote would need something along the lines of a 3' - 4' rotor span. But man, that would've been sweet.
Thanks Drago
. Maybe it's destiny that things work out the way did. But next time someone wants to give it a try, all the failures should already be worked out.-Fred
