Hi everybody. Recently I came across a TOS MR Phaser that has been through some surgery....
TOS Master Rep Carcas pictures by Admiralkisluk - Photobucket
All of the electronics have been gutted, along with most of the internal mechanic stuff like the P1 Sight mechanics and emitter. Its got everything perfect on the outside, minus paint scratches, P1 emitter and brass emitter, and a hole someone drilled in the P1 upper body for an Led.
Anyway, as I said, all of the internals have been gutted out, I was going to try to make it work again, as I have some great electronics from Dstines and some MR Knock off, or Rodd.com ones with 9 sounds. the only reason I say it might be a knock off is that the board doesn't fit in the P2 body. Current doesn't flow through the Powerpack, but probably something is wrong with the twist lock area... so another slight problem.
the P2 Emitter is shot. the Tracks that the body piece latches on to turn is ripped apart, idk if anybody makes replacement tips but that would be helpful, I love the way the MR works like that. It came with a few odds and ends like a multi color led, and some other parts clearly ripped out and just given as "here you fix it."
I am not quite sure whoever was going to do whatever to it was thinking but, its in need of a fixn, The Photos are the original photos sent to me, but it looks pretty much the same. The funny thing is, that it still has the little made in china sticker thing on the bottom of the P1... The photos don't really show the paint chipping on the bottom front of the P2 under the twisty knob
The P1 sight cowling was epoxied in along with the crispy, which I have now got it so it is attached with a spring, and I can raise it with the acrylic piece. I dont have the wheel to acrylic hooked up, basically just put all the stuff to make it externally pleasing back in.
The power pack doesn't fit in very well anymore, its kinda loose, and I think its been put in so many times, probably the wrong way that it has chewed away some of the plastic at the openings for the twistlock area
The aluminum top piece has a huge scratch in it, amongst many others
the P1 locking works perfectly however!, minus the fact that the P1 bottom half is only held on by the one screw, which itself is screwed into whats left of the almost melted mangled piece of plastic that I assume was part of the P1 interior, which I hot glued in just temporary for, as I said, externally pleasing purposes.
The rubber inset on the P2 for the P1 is there and works perfectly as well
I should point out that with all the complaints, dont get me wrong, I am very very very happy to own it, honored even that they are so rare. It just needs a little TLC, and itll be perfect.
TOS Master Rep Carcas pictures by Admiralkisluk - Photobucket
All of the electronics have been gutted, along with most of the internal mechanic stuff like the P1 Sight mechanics and emitter. Its got everything perfect on the outside, minus paint scratches, P1 emitter and brass emitter, and a hole someone drilled in the P1 upper body for an Led.
Anyway, as I said, all of the internals have been gutted out, I was going to try to make it work again, as I have some great electronics from Dstines and some MR Knock off, or Rodd.com ones with 9 sounds. the only reason I say it might be a knock off is that the board doesn't fit in the P2 body. Current doesn't flow through the Powerpack, but probably something is wrong with the twist lock area... so another slight problem.
the P2 Emitter is shot. the Tracks that the body piece latches on to turn is ripped apart, idk if anybody makes replacement tips but that would be helpful, I love the way the MR works like that. It came with a few odds and ends like a multi color led, and some other parts clearly ripped out and just given as "here you fix it."
I am not quite sure whoever was going to do whatever to it was thinking but, its in need of a fixn, The Photos are the original photos sent to me, but it looks pretty much the same. The funny thing is, that it still has the little made in china sticker thing on the bottom of the P1... The photos don't really show the paint chipping on the bottom front of the P2 under the twisty knob
The P1 sight cowling was epoxied in along with the crispy, which I have now got it so it is attached with a spring, and I can raise it with the acrylic piece. I dont have the wheel to acrylic hooked up, basically just put all the stuff to make it externally pleasing back in.
The power pack doesn't fit in very well anymore, its kinda loose, and I think its been put in so many times, probably the wrong way that it has chewed away some of the plastic at the openings for the twistlock area
The aluminum top piece has a huge scratch in it, amongst many others
the P1 locking works perfectly however!, minus the fact that the P1 bottom half is only held on by the one screw, which itself is screwed into whats left of the almost melted mangled piece of plastic that I assume was part of the P1 interior, which I hot glued in just temporary for, as I said, externally pleasing purposes.
The rubber inset on the P2 for the P1 is there and works perfectly as well
I should point out that with all the complaints, dont get me wrong, I am very very very happy to own it, honored even that they are so rare. It just needs a little TLC, and itll be perfect.
