molding fiberglass

Peacefrog35

Sr Member
Hi all. Forgive me if this is in the wrong place. I'm new to the boards,but I used to be ont he old ezboards once upon a time...before life made me get out of the hobby. I am a former, now returning Vader enthusiast and at one time had a Vadermaker VM01, a JB, Don Post Deluxe and several other fan made helmets as well as a slew of lightsabers. I only have 2 lightsabers left one of thing being my original graflex (my second prop I found) and now that my life is in order, I can get back into props. Thanks for letting me on this board.

Now this may be off topic: I knew that if anyone would have any info or advice on what what I could do, it would be this group. I am also a Doors enthusiat and have the keyboards. Posted is a pic of my gear and I need to get a copy made of the silver fiberglass top you see in the back. Is there anyone in Indiana or the midwest that can mold this so I could have an extra copy? I would like an extra so I can get a custom gold sparkle paint job to match my original silver sparkle. I know a strange request and forgive me if this is not the place. I've never molded anything before and want a veteran to do a commision if possible.
Thanks again and it is an honor to be here. I ve lurked for a while and was thankful when registration opened up again! The talent in this gropu is mind blowing!

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Just one friendly bump. Help me RPF, you're my only hope. I know it's not as interesting as finding an original Derwent engine part for an obi,but wow, I've wanted to find someone to mold this fiberglass top for a long time. Speaking of kenobi sabers... I've been drooling and waiting on the EFX saber since I heard about it although, I'll never let my Romas saber go.
 
Well I'm in Northern Illinois and I could help you out, but I have to caution you that a single one off copy it going to be costly and I don't now if that cost can be justified by you... Just the initial cost of silicone is going to set you back about $100 for a gallon... Since you only want one copy you could probably cut some corners and make a much thinner silicone mold and save a few $$...

If you are interested feel free to PM me...
 
This seems simple enough. You only want one copy, correct?

I can't tell a lot from th picture, so let me ask some questions. Can you remove it from the keyboard? Is the front panel with lettering removable? Do you want that replcated as well? Knobs, can they be purchased, or do they need to be replicated? What about the underside of the box, is there anything inside, such as mounting bracket or wire holder?


The box can be molded in gypsum. Its cheap, $30 for 100#, and backed up with some burlap. Be sure to seal and release the mold very well before trying to put any fiberglass into it.

You can visit youtube for some fiberglassing videos.
 
Thanks for the imput guys. I'll try to get a better pic. Yes, I only need one copy. It does come off from the keybaord. It's called a harp cover and it it is a hollow shell. It's just one piece that sits on top of the innards of the keyboard. They are from the early to mid 1960s and no one has ever made copies of this before...strangely enough.

A pic of the piano bass without it.

athomeNewsilvertopbass067.jpg


and a pic with it on.

athomeNewsilvertopbass002.jpg


I'll try to take a pic in the next day or so of the fiblerglass by it self and show the underside. Apparently these were built in a boat shop and commisioned by Fender Rhodes and the gold and silver sparkle was laid into the fiberlass like a bass boat. I don't need that as I'll try to have it custom painted later. A clean crisp copy is all I need. It's kind of a clear type fiberglass if that mades sense.

Thanks!!
 
In the world of keyboard collecting is there any other need for this piece?

Is it something hard to come by? Would others be interested?

Could spread the cost over a few people.

Looks like a prime candidate for vacu-forming if you ask me.
 
Apparently these were built in a boat shop and commisioned by Fender Rhodes and the gold and silver sparkle was laid into the fiberlass like a bass boat. I don't need that as I'll try to have it custom painted later. A clean crisp copy is all I need. It's kind of a clear type fiberglass if that mades sense.

Sounds like a clear gelcoat with a metal flake gelcoat behind it... This can even be replicated if desired as well... Of course it will require more work and time...

As Clonesix said a plaster mold could be made to even further cut cost, but I personally would prefer to do a silicone pull of it, just for easier demolding...

Anyway let me know, I just tooled up for doing a run of fiberglass parts and pretty much have everything ready to go for a project like this...
 
Sounds like a clear gelcoat with a metal flake gelcoat behind it... This can even be replicated if desired as well... Of course it will require more work and time...

As Clonesix said a plaster mold could be made to even further cut cost, but I personally would prefer to do a silicone pull of it, just for easier demolding...

Anyway let me know, I just tooled up for doing a run of fiberglass parts and pretty much have everything ready to go for a project like this...

Yes, that's what they did originally. I would like to have a gold sparkle finish on it like this...

image.jpg


That's what I want my copy to look like. There are no other uses other than this,but there has never been a replica before and I know there are others out there that do not have tops for their piano basses so I'm sure more can be sold,but if I can do it cheaper by just having one copy made, that is fine by me.
 
Simple shape, rounded corners, definitely vac-form it.

Pour hydro-cal or hydro stone into the one you have. Instant master.
 
Simple shape, rounded corners, definitely vac-form it.

I thought about that,but doesn't vac forming require use with plastics only? Like with styrene or am I mistaken. For the sake of keeping it like the original, I would prefer clear gel coat fiberglass if at all possible.
 
Gold metallic-flake paint and a good clear coat would look the same.

Well it'll have to be a custom mix as the sparkle flakes will have to be ordered separately. There are currently no sparkle paints that have large enough flakes. As for the plastic vs. Fiberglass, fiberglass like the original is pretty much my top choice as it needs to be strong and well, I want it to be as close to the copy as possible, just in gold instead of the silver. If it came down to doing this being way over the top in cost, I would consider vacu forming.
 
Simple shape, rounded corners, definitely vac-form it.

Pour hydro-cal or hydro stone into the one you have. Instant master.



I think that you have something here, but let me expand a little:

If you vacu-form over the one you have, that is your new mold. Meaning that that vacuformed plastic is the mold that you lay your fiberglass into.

Here are some issues that I see: 1) you need to fill the one you have so that it is solid when you vacuform over it. Otherwise, it could be crushed when you apply the vacuum. You could just pour plaster into it, as long as you are sure that you can get the plaster plug back out. It would be a shame if it locked inside the fiberglass model.
2) I am not sure about this, but I believe that if you want to add metal flake to a clear gelcoat, that it needs to be sprayed, and not brushed. It's not hard, but requires a compressor and spray gun.
If you have a spray gun, you should also spray in the PVA.
 
fiberglass like the original is pretty much my top choice as it needs to be strong and well, I want it to be as close to the copy as possible, just in gold instead of the silver. QUOTE]

Talk with exoray..If I am not mistaken,He does alot of work with fiberglass on the proton packs.

but if price is a factor then getting it thermoformed would be cheaper
 
fiberglass like the original is pretty much my top choice as it needs to be strong and well, I want it to be as close to the copy as possible, just in gold instead of the silver. QUOTE]

Talk with exoray..If I am not mistaken,He does alot of work with fiberglass on the proton packs.

but if price is a factor then getting it thermoformed would be cheaper

I've been pming Exoray. I think I am going to have him do it in the gelcoat with the metal flake just like the original. I want it done just like it was done originally so pricewise, it will be worth it for me.
Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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