Metal Gear Solid 3 - 3D Printed Knife & VOX/PTT Switch Box

[ZMan941]

So a few weeks back I decided to try and revamp my Naked Snake / Big Boss costume to be actually accurate. people got the costume (especially with the box) but it wasn't good enough for me at all. The convention I have been pulling this together for is in 10 days so there will still be some issues with the overall costume, but it will be night and day compared to the previous hodge-podge attempt.

Most of the stuff is pretty easy when you compare to other props/costumes as it is just a matter of finding the right items and piecing them together properly (relatively speaking). The STABO harness is what got me to this board (thanks to TheRonin!) and that just leaves the most other difficult part: the CQC knife. Finding a close-looking knife isn't that hard and others have found them, one being the Fury Glacier Bay. However the problem with real knives is that you can't go around posing with them or even taking them out of the sheaths at any convention I have been to. Naturally there are no rubber prop knives as close as real ones so that got me thinking.

We recently got a 3D printer at work and a coworker mentioned trying to print parts for a cosplay of his and it clicked that the CQC knife made out of PLA or ABS would be a perfect idea. At the same time, this also would allow me to make the knife as close as possible to the game. The office was pretty dead today so I got working on the knife.

Using screenshots, renders, the action figures, and some other prop drawings, I managed to get a scale going and rough out the shape. From there it was a lot of measuring tiny photos and squinting. Lots of squinting.

I took a lot of WIP shots and went through 4 iterations of the shape and details before I got to where I am now. I decided not to post all of them as I feel most people won't exactly care. Where I am right now is based off primarily game screens and the 1/6th scale action figure. Someone has several albums of pictures of just the action figures, including Big Boss / Naked Snake, Solid Snake, and Old Snake. Here is also a close-up of the knife for the 1/6th scale figure.

What I have currently modeled is below:




The knife is currently a flat piece. The idea was that however it was created for a prop, it would be finished as needed blade-wise. For some cases doing nothing might be the safest bet. While it won't look the best, it will be clear to people that it has no blade.

Some issues I have run into reference wise are blade shape:
-Some references show a drop point while others show a clip point. I am currently leaning towards a slight clip point.
-The shape of the serrations. This one has them based off the toy. The real-life "kinda close" knives all have square notches rather than proper serrations and it looks strange. I honestly thing it is because they are low-end knives that are stamped rather than having the serrations cut out a bit more finely.


I also kept some things off as this is intended to be made on a thremoplastic extrusion type AMM/3D Printer. Some edges were not rounded off or given certain textures to keep things easier. I intend to take some sandpaper, a file, or a rotary tool to it after it is done.
Also due to the side of the machine I have to make this on, I will be splitting the knife into two parts at the flat protrusion of a hilt. The build area is only 6" x 6" and that seemed like the easiest place for reassembly. After that it will be a matter of wrapping the handle area with paracord.

I hope to do a test print tomorrow.

Please let me know if you have any tips or pointers!

Thanks,

-ZMan


---Edited 4/7/2015---
I changed the name of the thread as I have started a model of the elusive VOX/PTT switch box.

 

[ZMan941]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife

I just want to mention that there is no geometry here that requires it to be AM'd / 3D Printed. It is just the easiest way for me to do it from the CAD model I made up.

I got the first draft printed today at work.

Print Stats
Machine: 3D Systems Cube 3
Print Time: 1 Hour 16 Min
Material: Black PLA
Layer Height: 0.200mm
Fill: "Strong"


First Layer Down





Internal Honeycomb Fill





Finished Parts



"Assembled"



The blade looks spot on and the width of the grip feels realistic size wise and looks right. The only part I am concerned about is the hilt (or what is left of one) on the bottom side in the image. Measurement wise it should be spot on, but it looks a bit strange for some reason. If anyone had input that would be great.

The beauty of it printing in 2 parts is that I can make changes to one and quickly pop it out. The downside is I have to find the best way to bond the two parts. CA glue could work and friction welding using the rotary tool method is an option too. Friction welding would be the strongest, but this machine uses cartridges and not straight filament. I could get some filament from another machine though...

After assembly, it is just a matter of dissolving any remnant build-plate glue, some sanding, and the cord wrap. Then I just need to make a sheath.

 

[mtrixman]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

I'd be interested in purchasing one if you decide to do a run

 

[The Ronin]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

I'd be interested in purchasing one if you decide to do a run

Ditto. I have a nice paracord wrapped blade, but it's not exactly con legal.

 

[ZMan941]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

Alright so here is a bit of an update for everyone.

I attempted to friction weld the knife together with decent results. It sanded down well as well and you can see below.

Friction Welded


Aside from the fact that I am holding the knife the wrong way, the friction welding was not as strong as I was hoping and actually cracked when I was sanding the knife. I am fairly certain this is due to my lack of experience and the fact that the file has no groove between the parts to allow for a proper bead to be laid down. Either way this was the day before I left for the con so I went and used Super Glue.

At the con I tried to wrap it and realized I had no idea what I was doing. Thankfully someone else did and helped me, but while wrapping the knife broke at the seam. It was easily repaired with glue and I haven't had issues with it.


Glued and Wrapped


I have no sheath due to the short notice of my decision to update my MGS3 cosplay / make it not suck, but it seems to be holding up well.



This brings me to the people asking about getting one for themselves. I am really flattered that people think I did a good enough job that they want one! There are a few things I'd be concerned about. Firstly, the 3D printer I used is technically not mine and I wouldn't want to make a lot of these on it. Secondly, the same 3D printer onlyhas a 6" x 6" x 6" build area, which is why the knife is in two pieces. I feel this is a massive weak point (obviously as mine has broken at the seam twice) and would ideally have it printed in one piece for strength. Third is that the printer is currently using PLA. PLA is biodegradeable and not as strong as ABS, but I don't have ABS filament for the machine yet. Fourth is that this is 3D printed so it needs finishing, such as sanding. I could do that but with a two piece knife I wouldn't really want the responsibility of a "bad prop" if it broke, but I also wouldn't want to send out a non-sanded part. The last reason is pretty simple, but right now I have no idea how to paracord wrap stuff.

Basically right now if I offered them it would probably wind up being a two-piece knife kit that you'd need to finish and join yourself. If people would really want this, I could check with my boss at work and just buy my own filament. This probably wouldn't be an issue with him, but you still have the whole "parts kit" thing.


However, my initial plan for this was to create a CAD file to share. This way people could print their own / have one printed (ideally on a machine with a large enough build area to accomodate a one piece knife) or make one out of a solid piece of plastic using a router or mill. The part is 5mm thick, but you could use 1/4" stock quite easily. If you don't ahve access to either of these yourself local shops or AM services (Solid Concepts is great) could certainly do the part for a reasonable cost.

Let me know what you guys think!

I'll try and get some more pictures of the knife when I have the gloves on and with the M1911.

 

[ZMan941]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

So it's been a while, but after the convention life and work kind a got in the way.

I want to revisit the grip as it seems a bit tight when wrapped / finger doesn't align exactly with the grip's groove. I also am tempted to poke around at the thickness of the prop. I know nothing about real knifemaking, but I get the sense that this type of knife would have been made from a uniform thickness plate and then just wrapped around the handle, and I doubt they would have used 5mm thick plate for that. The natural downside is that if I make it thinner, there is concern for strength.

After that, if people are still interested in this as an actual prop instead of just a CAD file, I could check into making it on the machine we have at work (see my above post for the two-piece concerns) or ideally having a service print it on a larger machine as a single piece. Industrial printers could also use better materials and internal structures for strength.

The next part would be making a sheath (not printed obviously) but then looking into making the switch box with 3D Printing. I know I have seen some dimensions around here and that would be pretty easy to do and more durable than a foam-cut.

Please feel free to give me any ideas!

 

[OuterHeavenBoss]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

You'd have to drill some holes, those paracord wraps usually go through the knife itself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0KOgbcLcmI

 

[Wingman]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

I might be interested in a 3d printed switch box when you get that done. I made a template of it if you'd like to see it, I just need scale it to the right size.

As for the sheath, I've been thinking of making one soon too. There's some good tutorials on youtube, and there's leather pretty cheap on ebay. If I'm confident enough in my leathermaking I might make the sheath on his leg too. It bugs me how the ontario pilot survival knife sheath is so close but different on the bottom.

 

[ZMan941]

Re: Metal Gear Solid 3 CQC Knife (CAD Model + 3D Print)

I might be interested in a 3d printed switch box when you get that done. I made a template of it if you'd like to see it, I just need scale it to the right size.

Wow. I am literally trying to sketch out a template and bring it into SolidWorks now. I went to find the refs I had seen here before and saw this new post.

A scaled, and ideally dimensioned, template would be great. Right now I am working on the one published to DeviantArt by Demon Vice Commander, but I am struggling with proper thicknesses and I want to add the slight chamfer.

 

[ZMan941]

Alright now that I am home and have updated my preferences to get an email when someone replies, here is what I have.

1. Knife Update
Per OuterHavenBoss' suggestion and actually paying attention on how one would paracord wrap a knife, I will be making a modified version of the knife hilt that has at the very least a slot running through it so it can used the figure-eight style wrap. If possible, I will add starter holes. At the very least this will make a wrap easier and more secure. Hopefully there won't be any issues with strength, but if there are issues with the slot I will go to just starting holes.


2. VOX/PTT Switch Box
I have little desire to mess with foam and glue when I can just make a CAD model, 3D Print, sand, and do some light painting. I started my model based on the template that is on DeviantArt from user DemonViceCommander. I don't know what to do thickness wise so I am just guessing until I do the first draft of the print tomorrow. I rounded some dimensions to the nearest whole millimeter or nice decimal and added the draft angle that seems to be present from the screenshots provided in another thread here: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=215953&p=3405578&viewfull=1#post3405578

Top View


Isometric View




Overall thickness is about 15mm if I recall. I plan to do the knob separately, but I am not sure if it can be completely turn-able. Still considering how to do an attachment method (clip that is glued on maybe?)


Let me know what you think guys! I plan to have this done for C2E2, but I will be out of the office for the week before it.

 

[ZMan941]

Alright. Some updates from print tests this week.

1. CQB Knife
I changed the hole size and location a little and then added a slot for paracord wrapping. If you squeeze the hilt you can feel a little bit of give, but strength should be fine.



It needs a bit of clean-up around the hole and the loose strand. Other than that, I just need to glue on a blade and sand it a bit. Then the paracord wrap, which I have never done.


2. VOX / PTT Box
Comparing the model to the references, it looked a bit too square. I made a few passes at edits and came up with this one.





It is a bit thinner, a bit narrower, and the little slots at the bottom are taller. The switch is shown together but it prints separately for now. When I printed it, it does need some sanding to fit and there is no real method of retention. I will probably try printing it as on piece to simplify things.

Speaking of prints, here is the printed Vox/PTT box. It is shown at the crazy angle to show off some of the details.



Here it is next to my glorious, 10-year-old, 4th Gen iPod Color for size ref.


Lastly, here it is being held up to one of The Ronin's STABO harnesses. Again for size ref. It is deliberately held off-center to show the scale compared to the webbing.



Let me know what you think. I will have both of these, in some form, at C2E2.
If any of you are going, I'll be running around with the MGS2 box as well. I typically bring a boombox that loops Encounter, but I think the old thing finally died. At least I got the cassette out.

 

[Wingman]

To be honest, the template of the switch box from deviantart is off, I've compared it to screenshots and it doesn't match up, they might have eye-balled it. I've taken dozens of screenshots and I'm re-doing my template and trying my best to make it as accurate as possible. As soon as I'm done I'll post it here. Btw, do you have any idea what's written on it? The letters are so small and blurry.

Edit: I was writing this at the same time you made your last post haha. Your switch box looks good.

 

[ZMan941]

Yeah, it looked off, so I started with that as a base and then used the collection of refs from above to make it a bit more accurate.
As for the writing, most of the ones I have seen have "VOX" and "PTT" for the switch, but no idea what the little text is at the base.

 

[Wingman]

Ok, so I finally got my template done, I've put hours into making it as accurate as I can.

 

[ZMan941]

Ok, so I finally got my template done, I've put hours into making it as accurate as I can.

I'm afraid without dimensions it isn't much help beyond what I already made. I just got back from C2E2 and the one I made held up quite well. i drilled holes in one for the mic plug but for got to do it for the other and it is currently held on to the harness only by gaff tape. I need to make a clip of some sort, but beyond that it worked well.

 

[Wingman]

The sides are .60" x 2.75" and the front is 1.75" x 2.75" hope that helps

 

[ZMan941]

The sides are .60" x 2.75" and the front is 1.75" x 2.75" hope that helps

Yeah. That gives me a scale and from there I can print a copy, measure, and locate what I need. I'll still have to guess/check on some aspects such as any chamfering/filleting of the dial itself, the height of the dial itself, the depth of the selection "notches", and how deep into the body those four rectangles (which I assume are for a clip or a strap) go.
Based on those notches by the dial going into the body of the switch, I would assume that there is some sort of spring-loaded or even just a spring-steel piece that would be on the underside of the dial to catch it in place. If this is made as one piece, that won't be an issue. Since I have never seen a ref of the switch in anything but the VOX position (the 12 o'clock position) making it as one piece should be fine.

I'll post what I model up later for your input and we can see how things compare. I can already say you box is actually smaller than mine, but thicker. My design as it was printed was 3" x 2.067" x 0.49" with the side notches and switch area being recessed 0.199". If the number seem strange, that is because I worked in millimeters. There the numbers are 76.2 x 52.5 x 12.5 with a 5mm recessed part. I got those by starting with the DA template, combining it with another template, modifying it because they both seemed off, and then going with primary dimensions at the nearest "nice" millimeter.

 

[dranelol]

hey, im about to be crafting these two props (the knife, and the ptt/vox box) for a friend's cosplay; would you be able to upload your 3d files so i would be able to 3d print them?

 

[BlueLaguna88]

Yeah it'd be cool if you could upload the Vox-ptt 3d print files please! Thank you!