Making the MR E-11 fully functional

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Xhiwar, Jun 4, 2006.

  1. Xhiwar

    Xhiwar Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey there.
    I’ve recently (finally) got a MR E-11, and was a bit disappointed that it had no moving parts.
    Prior to this, I found an E-11 on eBay, which I unfortunately missed out on (wanted to bid the whole week, and then just forgot about it the day the auction ended... :( ), but I contacted the seller which told me that, for mysterious reasons, he had three MR E-11 and is therefore selling one.
    He also mentioned that he modified one so that everything is working, trigger, stock, and even a removeable mag.

    So after annyoing him to death, he finally told me how to do this. Thanks a lot, TK570.

    And I am here today to share this secret with you. ;)
    First of all, this is gonna involve taking your blaster almost completely apart, so if you want it to stay pristine and clean, you might want to think about doing this.



    Alrighty, everybody knows how to make the trigger working and adding a spring, so I’m not gonna cover this. (For those who don’t know how to do this: http://threads.rebelscum.com/showflat.php?...&fpart=1#976254 )

    Now, as for the stock, first of all, you have to remove the muzzle (the allen screws are 3/16”. For those of you who live where the metric system rules (like me), go to your local hardware store. I had to search a whole day until I found some imperial system ones. :unsure )

    [​IMG]

    Now, to the funny part: you’ve got to tear out the barrel cap. If you are careful, the paint job will not be damaged.
    I took some pliers I had lying around and tried to somehow “turn” the cap out, as TK570 told me. If you do this right, the paint job should stay intact. I unfortunately haven't gotten around to do this, since my cap seems to be attached with VERY strong glue or something, so I'd need some more tools to do this. So the following pics (except the first and the next one, which I made) and the instructions are from TK570.

    [​IMG]

    Now you should see some kind of silicone blob, which you will have to remove. Then, you should be able to move the shoulder stock.

    [​IMG]

    From what I've heard, there are two possibilities: either the stock is rather hard to move and will stay in either position, or it is loose, and in order to attach it in the closed position, you will have to add a little bit of silicone or improvise another locking mechanism.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now, all you have to do is reattach the barrel cap, which you can do with either a little blob of silicone or some glue.

    I was also told that it is possible to make the mag removeable, if you want to. I haven't done this either, but according to TK570, the mag is attached to the barrel from the inside with a screw.

    [​IMG]


    So, well, I hope word will spread that it is in fact possible to make the thing working, but it's somewhat hard to achieve.



    Enjoy taking your blaster apart. :)



    Xhiwar
     
  2. KevVader

    KevVader Sr Member

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    Xhiwar (and TK570)....thanks for this buddy. Awesome....I'm going to give these mods a shot.

    I do find it incredible how much hot glue is used in putting this thing together tho.....now, where's my big hammer?. :D
     
  3. Hirohawa

    Hirohawa Sr Member

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    great info thanks
     
  4. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks for the info.

    I'm having trouble getting the cap off as well. Scared of stripping the threads, too.

    Has anyone found a way to remove the T-track?
     
  5. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well, I got the t-track off. Just get a blade under it near the end where it bows up ever so slightly and it just pops off. They're just glued on.

    I wanted to replace the track with the real thing, as I prefer the slightly bowed look of many of the ANH blasters to the tracks that are firmly seated across their entire length.

    However:

    [​IMG]

    No barrel holes. Instead there are slots for tabs in the t-track pieces.

    So much for my t-track plan, alas. The bowed look would reveal that there are slots instead of holes.

    The strips are neat, though. They're ABS, but the tops have a rubbery coating.

    I still can't get the barrel cap off. Going to try a propane torch next. Maybe that'll melt the adhesive. ;)
     
  6. Darth Fetty

    Darth Fetty Well-Known Member

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    Great stuff.
    I'm debating on whether or not I should try that....

    Interesting that there aren't any barrel holes. A bit dissappointing too....
     
  7. Xhiwar

    Xhiwar Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hmm...
    I thought so, never took the barrel strips away though, but looking through the holes that are not covered, I saw that there were no other holes.
    I thought about adding custom strips too, but unless you drill them and fill the slots with something, it'll just look funny...
     
  8. SVTStingRay

    SVTStingRay Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    thats just wrong, messing up a perfectly good blaster. :rolleyes
     
  9. Duck9000

    Duck9000 Well-Known Member

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    I don't even have one and already want to do this... :unsure
     
  10. Lynn TXP 0369

    Lynn TXP 0369 Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(SVTStingRay @ Jun 25 2006, 04:25 PM) [snapback]1267996[/snapback]</div>
    They're making a good blaster better. Nothing wrong with that..

    Lynn
     
  11. SVTStingRay

    SVTStingRay Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    im dying to get a rebel blaster, but would shutter at the thought of tampering with it in case i break it.
     
  12. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    ARGH, even the propane torch, aimed through a barrel shroud hole right at the back of the cap, where the silicone glue reportedly is, didn't result in a thing. I think this thing is sonic welded on or something.
     
  13. Ripcode

    Ripcode Well-Known Member

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    To remove the endcap:

    Look at the picture below. This is Treadwell's modified MR E-11.

    Drive out the tiny pin circled.

    Underneath the fake endcap retaining mechanism is (2) screws. Unscrew these and then you can tap off the endcap. Actually you only need to remove the rearward as that is the one holding the endcap on.

    The endcap has a snug fit so you can use a wooden dowel and hammer to tap it off. If you want to weather it, just use the hammer! :lol

    Once the endcap is off, you can take out the fake bolt and barrel.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Hirohawa

    Hirohawa Sr Member

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    Great thread.
     
  15. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, there was some terminology confusion. What I was trying to take off was at the other end. ;)
     
  16. Ripcode

    Ripcode Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure the cap on the barrel end is welded on. :unsure

    I need mine to go back together, so removing the receiver endcap is the way to go.

    I have the same plans for my MR as the mods you did on yours. :)

    Thanks for the info Treadwell! It was your thread that gave me the needed info to tear my MR EE-3 apart!
     
  17. Xhiwar

    Xhiwar Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Actually, I was never able to get the front cap off as well. That's why I only posted TK570 pics in this thread.

    I managed to get the rear endcap off though. It was not welded on, but held in place by pressure, and I never got it off with a wooden dowel or anything. What I did was: I loosened the screw on the bottom of the blaster, under the grip, so that the bolt could be moved around in the E-11. Then I moved the bolt back until it touched the endcap. All I did then was sliding a metal rod down the barrel and hit it with a hammer. That way, the endcap came off without any problem and not even the paint was damaged.

    Cheers


    Xhiwar
     
  18. OdiWan72

    OdiWan72 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I´ll give that a try!

    Markus
     
  19. HAL9000

    HAL9000 Sr Member

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    from the title of your post I was kind of expecting Laser blasts!!

    :sick:sick
     
  20. Ripcode

    Ripcode Well-Known Member

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    The endcap is held on by (1) screw. See my above post. The red circled part is where the screw is hidden. Once the screw is removed, you can tap off the endcap.
     
  21. Xhiwar

    Xhiwar Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yep, I got that one out of course. The endcap still wouldn't move. I almost "tapped" off the whole paint and some of the metal of the endcap because it was that stuck. On the other hand, I've heard stories of people being able to just take the endcaps off by hand, so I guess it's different from blaster to laster...
     
  22. Ripcode

    Ripcode Well-Known Member

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    I wasn't worried about losing paint so I banged on it until the cap came off. :lol

    It will come off. My guess is the paint is slopped on and that it is acting like glue making the endcap removal more difficult.
     
  23. TazVader

    TazVader Sr Member

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    Great tutorial guys...couldn't you just buy some spare bolts and drill some holes through som bar? Then screw them back in the end cap through flatbar. After that just yank on the bar to remove the endcap:)

    Regards
    TAZ
     

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