Magikote foam sealer

[LORDXBLACKWOOD]

Posted this in my own build thread but i wanted to make sure all the foam guys saw this.

picked it up from michaels for $6 Its designed to seal styrofoam for painting, and as we know eva is a whole lot less porous than sytrofoam. Only downside so far is it doesn't have any kind of self leveler so you have to give it a light sand, other than that the test pieces ive done haven't cracked or bunched up like it does with plastidip.

enjoy!!

 

[msleeper]

What section did you find this in? I don't know if every Michael's is laid out different or what, but knowing where to start looking would help.

Great find, looking forward to seeing some after photos of it applied to a piece!

 

[LORDXBLACKWOOD]

i found it in the aisle with all the cheap acrylic paints it should be next to the 8oz bottles.

 

[Yodajammies]

I've been experimenting with a similar product called "Bounce" from Hot Wire Factory. Its viscosity is low enough to soak into EVA, and gives a very nice surface finish. I've got a couple test strips ready for paint at home - I'll try to post up paint results tonight.

 

[The Ronin]

Subscribed to see what the results of both of these are.

 

[LORDXBLACKWOOD]

well the magikote is awesome for sealing but it will peel up if you dig at it.

 

[Graphic Jordan]

Where did you find the bounce stuff?

 

[Graphic Jordan]

Nevermind I found it... it's on this page... The Compleat Sculptor Hot Wire Tools

There is a great description of it also.

 

[Leander]

Nice thread.. always handy to know what product to use.. and who knows might be to find one of those here in the Netherlands

 

[Yodajammies]

Here is a quick test of the "Bounce" brand foam coating system. From left to right you'll see segmented pieces of foam that have been given 0-4 coats of Bounce. After 3 coats the material stops readily accepting more layers and starts to build up on itself.

As for the painted section, I was a little heavy handed with the application and probably should have done several light coats to properly show paint adhesion, but the results should be fairly similar. These shots were taken with my cellphone and really don't do the colors justice, but the difference between coated and uncoated is very apparent in person.

In terms of flexibility and cracking, I saw similar results to using Plastidip. If you fold the material over on itself you get a wrinkling effect that lessens overtime. After 5 minutes of rigorous twisting, folding, stomping, and smooshing, I did not see any paint flaking off or delaminating from the surface.

Overall, I think I may use Bounce over Plastidip. It seems to adhere to the surface of the foam a little better, has similar paint quality, doesn't have any unpleasant odor, and is a decent amount cheaper. It will take a little longer to apply, but you can colorize, mat, and thicken it as you need to - Something you can't do with aerosol plastidip.

 

[Leander]

seeing all the options with foam makes me want to switch my ironman build from a hard resin one to a foambuild..

but the painted one is in my eyes not really metal-like unlike a resined one.

might just be this picture though.

nomnom don't know what to do..

 

[Fullmetalsam]

Thanks for the tests on Bounce Yodajammies - this sure look like something that will work for foam.

However, I'd be very curious to try Boost (seen just below Bounce on the website that Graphic Jordan posted). From the description, it seems very much like Bounce, but with a more pasty texture - which could make a great flexible crack filler. It sure looks very promising.

 

[Shades]

Good stuff right here. I like.

@Sam-

I have been playing around with filler at home. I am trying an assortment of putties and caulks. So far, the best results have been with standard acrylic silicone caulk. Part of the problem though is the stuff takes 3 days to fully cure. I am on day 2 of the experiment. I will post when I know how it turned out.

 

[Shades]

I also have some black tinted Gesso on order. I think this may have similar properties to magikote/ plasi dip.

I have to coat my entire bat suit and I don't want the vapors off 6 cans of plastic dip in my basement. I am in Cleveland so outside is not an option.

 

[Yodajammies]

@Leeander - yeah, it's difficult to get that "hard armor part" look from foam, but I think a lot of that has to do with the paint/finish you use.

Whatshisface that was doing the ironman suit for his 5 year old got fantastic results with whatever type of paint he was using.

 

[LORDXBLACKWOOD]

I originally was going the plasti-dip route but after about 3 layers of that and a couple layers of paint i was sill getting the pores of the foam showing through, which is not what any of us want.

@ yodajammies - it was indiefilmgeek i believe.

 

[Leander]

yeah I know Indiefilmgeek, his results are very good.. still struggling between Foam vs. Fiber/Resin though..

 

[Fullmetalsam]

IMO it's just not possible to get that "hard armor look" with foam.

Even if you're using the best sealer there is - you'll always end up with the "dreaded wrinkles" in your foam... there's only one way to avoid it and it's making sure the foam doesn't flex.

And if want to avoid the flex in the foam - then right there, you're better off working with another material (that rigid enough not to flex)... so plastic, resin/bondo, etc.

@Shades: Oh, I'd like to see how your tests with caulk turn out. What part of your batsuit are you using this on ??? (something that is meant to flex or not ???)

 

[Shades]

@Sam---

I have a janky seam on the right shin on the boot. This section will not flex. My test piece that is curing can be used to check the flexibility of the joint. I ll let you know. I tried a flex piece but the caulk wasn't fully cured and snapped.

 

[Grit]

IMO it's just not possible to get that "hard armor look" with foam.

Even if you're using the best sealer there is - you'll always end up with the "dreaded wrinkles" in your foam... there's only one way to avoid it and it's making sure the foam doesn't flex.

I had good success with Mod Podge as my sealer with acrylic over the top for my Iron Helm build. Most people comment on how deceptively solid it looks. It largely doesn't move, but the neck fins do flex a lot when set on a flat surface. No wrinkling.

That said, it's not a smooth, sleek look. I stippled the last 2 layers of Mod Podge on to build up a pitted metal look.

p.s. I ADORE R&D threads.