Luna's Ultimate Spider-Man Build, Orhadar Print. [Pic Heavy]

I must say kudos to you Luna. The micron pen looks fantastic I can't even tell where the sew lines would have been on the webbing. You truly inspire me good sir
Thanks, man, I appreciate it!

Thank you for the inspiration to create a Spider-man suit! Your guide has been extremely helpful and I hope that my addition to the legion of Spider-men will be 1/8th as awesome as yours. I do have a question: when you first got the print back from FOD, did you wash it? Or was it sent out to TrophyWife?

Thanks for the kind words! I didn't wash the print before sewing, I just checked it for dimensions and accuracy of size, then shipped it to Trophywife to sew. If I were to do it again, I would stop, and take the time to darken the web lines first before shipping it out. It's a lot easier to draw on the fabric while it's still flat.
 
Hey! This suit uses a U-zip pattern, but that involves a pair of invisible zippers, I'm not sure you're making a distinction that exists. The track of the "U" runs from one armpit, down the side, turns at a right angle and goes across the bottom of the belt along the bach, turns again, and runs up the other side to the other armpit. But you can either do one long zipper running that distance, like Brad Spidey4Fun or the film suits, or you can have a pair of zippers run that distance, one starting at each armpit, and then meeting at the center of the back. That's easier to do because you can buy invisible zippers of that length more easily.


Awesome, this was the information I was looking for. I wasn't aware it was a pattern. Thanks!
 
It comes to my understanding that you have answered many questions on multiple occasions, mainly ones that have already been asked; however I myself could not find my particular question within this thread, so I am asking you myself. For the mask of the suit, i was thinking about making this exact suit, however with a removable mask. I wanted to see how it looked before hand, but I could not find any suit that had a removable mask; every suit i looked at had the mask connected to the rest of the suit. Would you by chance be able to provide any insight as to how this would look for this particular suit? Also, would it be possible to have the mask attached to the suit via a hidden zipper, that way you can have the mask seem as though it were still attached to the rest of the suit when in reality, it would just be attached by a zipper. My apologies if this wounds confusing, I will gladly specify anything you need so that you could answer this question more accurately.
 
Thanks for the reply luna I got it now.

Also wanted to let you know, I would not have decided to start my own cosplay spiderman if my cousin did not find yours on the internet. He was really inspired by your cosplay and I told him I would help him lose weight (to fit the suit) and be his partner in crime! haha
 
Thanks for the reply luna I got it now.

Also wanted to let you know, I would not have decided to start my own cosplay spiderman if my cousin did not find yours on the internet. He was really inspired by your cosplay and I told him I would help him lose weight (to fit the suit) and be his partner in crime! haha

Cool stuff, man! Take care.

It comes to my understanding that you have answered many questions on multiple occasions, mainly ones that have already been asked; however I myself could not find my particular question within this thread, so I am asking you myself. For the mask of the suit, i was thinking about making this exact suit, however with a removable mask. I wanted to see how it looked before hand, but I could not find any suit that had a removable mask; every suit i looked at had the mask connected to the rest of the suit. Would you by chance be able to provide any insight as to how this would look for this particular suit? Also, would it be possible to have the mask attached to the suit via a hidden zipper, that way you can have the mask seem as though it were still attached to the rest of the suit when in reality, it would just be attached by a zipper. My apologies if this wounds confusing, I will gladly specify anything you need so that you could answer this question more accurately.

A removable mask would look fine with this suit, look at any suit made by Brad Spidey4fun to see a well-done separated mask--it requires a long 'turtleneck' collar for the suit portion that overlaps a mask with a very long neck that tucks inside. In fact, Orhadar already sells a version of this pattern with a separate mask included

You should NOT ever attempt to attach a removable mask with a zipper, only by overlap. A zipper has no stretch, so it should NEVER be placed horizontally around an extremity or your neck. You risk cutting off circulation to your brain and putting your life in danger if you have a zipper around the complete circumference of your throat, it is a VERY VERY bad idea. Because of the fact that they do not stretch, zips should only be placed horizontally along the waist. In any other position they should follow the vertical length of the limb or spine. If you put one around an arm, leg, or neck you are risking severe tissue damage.


Here's a Brad suit with a removable mask as an example:
1095005_10200966806350008_104075117_n.jpg


And here is the mask on a stand, showing the size of the neck overlap:
999529_10200632402830129_1732375_n.jpg
 
Cool stuff, man! Take care.



A removable mask would look fine with this suit, look at any suit made by Brad Spidey4fun to see a well-done separated mask--it requires a long 'turtleneck' collar for the suit portion that overlaps a mask with a very long neck that tucks inside. In fact, Orhadar already sells a version of this pattern with a separate mask included

You should NOT ever attempt to attach a removable mask with a zipper, only by overlap. A zipper has no stretch, so it should NEVER be placed horizontally around an extremity or your neck. You risk cutting off circulation to your brain and putting your life in danger if you have a zipper around the complete circumference of your throat, it is a VERY VERY bad idea. Because of the fact that they do not stretch, zips should only be placed horizontally along the waist. In any other position they should follow the vertical length of the limb or spine. If you put one around an arm, leg, or neck you are risking severe tissue damage.


Here's a Brad suit with a removable mask as an example:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd....417/1095005_10200966806350008_104075117_n.jpg

And here is the mask on a stand, showing the size of the neck overlap:
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/999529_10200632402830129_1732375_n.jpg

Thank you very much for the response! I am very glad I asked rather than actually doing it. As far as having the mask separate goes, do I have to sort of guess where to end the 'turle neck' collar for the suit portion? or is there an actual way to approach that?
 
I have a question about the webbing since I didn't it looking through the tread. How thick are the webs? I know you were filling them in with a 08 (.50) micron pen but I found a micron brush that goes on a bit thicker and just wanted to make sure it wouldn't be bigger then the lines.
 
Thank you very much for the response! I am very glad I asked rather than actually doing it. As far as having the mask separate goes, do I have to sort of guess where to end the 'turle neck' collar for the suit portion? or is there an actual way to approach that?
You want the collar to be as high as you can make it, though most of the overlap will come from the extra length of the mask underneath. With my only suit that had a separated mask, this point was around one set of webs down from where the throat dart normally ends (the throat dart is that oval shape on the neck of the pattern that needs to be sewn together to make the neck narrow).

5Er6HwDl.jpg


I have a question about the webbing since I didn't it looking through the tread. How thick are the webs? I know you were filling them in with a 08 (.50) micron pen but I found a micron brush that goes on a bit thicker and just wanted to make sure it wouldn't be bigger then the lines.
The web thickness varies throughout the suit. On most of the suit it's around .75 to .99 mm, near the wrists and fingers it's about .5mm, and on the shoulders it's nearly 2mm. A 08 micron pen was able to address all of the webs throughout. Better a slightly undersized brush than an oversized one, you don't get any do-overs with archival ink.
 
You want the collar to be as high as you can make it, though most of the overlap will come from the extra length of the mask underneath. With my only suit that had a separated mask, this point was around one set of webs down from where the throat dart normally ends (the throat dart is that oval shape on the neck of the pattern that needs to be sewn together to make the neck narrow).

http://i.imgur.com/5Er6HwDl.jpg


The web thickness varies throughout the suit. On most of the suit it's around .75 to .99 mm, near the wrists and fingers it's about .5mm, and on the shoulders it's nearly 2mm. A 08 micron pen was able to address all of the webs throughout. Better a slightly undersized brush than an oversized one, you don't get any do-overs with archival ink.

Awesome thanks for the info...maybe I will try the red micron brush pen for the back spider :)
 
cool suit, and nice tutorial too.
I am making my own suit too. Mine is a 7 piece costume. Right now I am working on it.
 
Thanks, lunaman. Do you know how can I make a stright webs line? What material should I use.
latex?? And screen printing it??
 
Thanks, lunaman. Do you know how can I make a stright webs line? What material should I use.
latex?? And screen printing it??
That depends on the final look you want and the approach you choose to take. I'm not big on raised webbing, which is why I didn't use it here. I think you need to dig in and do some more research mate, to find which approach is best for your goals. You make straight lines by spending a lot of time practicing with your materials of choice on scrap, putting in the hours and getting a steady and confident hand. Or you can use a mechanical approach like screen-printing, which is much more involved and requires emulsions and screens for each pattern piece that only let the ink reach certain areas of the fabric. Research, research, research is your friend. This thread is only about one particular suit project, it doesn't apply to every possible approach. Best of luck.
 
That depends on the final look you want and the approach you choose to take. I'm not big on raised webbing, which is why I didn't use it here. I think you need to dig in and do some more research mate, to find which approach is best for your goals. You make straight lines by spending a lot of time practicing with your materials of choice on scrap, putting in the hours and getting a steady and confident hand. Or you can use a mechanical approach like screen-printing, which is much more involved and requires emulsions and screens for each pattern piece that only let the ink reach certain areas of the fabric. Research, research, research is your friend. This thread is only about one particular suit project, it doesn't apply to every possible approach. Best of luck.

Oh, I see. Thanks for the advice.
practice makes perfect! And sorry, should have post in other thread.
sorry. But thank you anyway
 
about the fabric , it seem like everyone getting fade the color when stretch the fabric. my print just come but it come with one piece ( mean is red part and blue part is not separate ) so i cant dyel color . but i plan to use arcylic spray paint so spray the back of the print. do you think it will work,
 
about the fabric , it seem like everyone getting fade the color when stretch the fabric. my print just come but it come with one piece ( mean is red part and blue part is not separate ) so i cant dyel color . but i plan to use arcylic spray paint so spray the back of the print. do you think it will work,

I did not order a print from FOD, so I don't have any proble about fading.
yeah it might work but you need to cover the red part while you doing the blue part, so the color don't mess up
 
about the fabric , it seem like everyone getting fade the color when stretch the fabric. my print just come but it come with one piece ( mean is red part and blue part is not separate ) so i cant dyel color . but i plan to use arcylic spray paint so spray the back of the print. do you think it will work,
You can overdye fabric prints to reduce color fade, but you need a translucent dye that is formulated for synthetic fibers and doesn't require heat-setting, and you need the blue and red sections separated so that they don't bleed into each other during dying. This is best done by having them physically separated on the print and sewn together later. It *can* be done with a liquid resist like latex separating the colors instead, but this is very high risk and I don't recommend it.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone done the Orhadar ultimate suit and puff paint JUST the webs?
Yes, there's a user on here who did a McFarlane Spidey that way, it looked very cool.
 
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You can overdye fabric prints to reduce color fade, but you need a translucent dye that is formulated for synthetic fibers and doesn't require heat-setting, and you need the blue and red sections separated so that they don't bleed into each other during dying. This is best done by having them physically separated on the print and sewn together later. I *can* be done with a liquid resist like latex separating the colors instead, but this is very high risk and I don't recommend it.

What type of dye would you recommend for this? I got some solid red and blue colored lycra, and the colors are not what I want. I was thinking to overdye them, like you said, to get a better color.
 
What type of dye would you recommend for this? I got some solid red and blue colored lycra, and the colors are not what I want. I was thinking to overdye them, like you said, to get a better color.

I got pretty good results using Dye-Na-Flow by Jaquard with the Airfix additive to catalyze and set the dye without heat. Here's the result on my ASM2 suit, which I'm working on making a tutorial for (it's just taking a really long time because of how complicated the build was and figuring out how to explain it with pictures):

Vq948Dl.jpg
 
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