Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber with partially scratch made controlbox

By the way TridCloudwalker do post some pictures here of your Luke ROTJ Hero lightsaber if you please,
I'm very curious to know how you finished your controlbox and thanks in advance for the silver screws,
if you can find them send me a PM, okay?

I haven't finished my control box yet unfortunately. I did however install some triangular LEDs into one for a client. And the LEDs I used were custom made. I have no idea where he got them.
But here is my saber without the control box...at least, this is how it used to look, as I stripped all the paint a while ago because I was unhappy with it:
100_2480-1.jpg

saber-1.jpg


and here's a partially finished box. Still a LOT of work yet to do on it:
100_1604-1.jpg
 
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Someone here must know, as they were being sold here many years ago.


Q: Did anyone ever find the correct color and size red/green arrows/leds ◄ ►? Anyone :confused

Well I did get the bolt fiddled loose again however I can't seem to get the Tri-ring in the correct position
what am I doing wrong?
By the way TridCloudwalker do post some pictures here of your Luke ROTJ Hero lightsaber if you please,
I'm very curious to know how you finished your controlbox and thanks in advance for the silver screws,
if you can find them send me a PM, okay?


-Chaim
 
Thanks TridCloudwalker for your pictures. Excellent ◄ ►! You must have to many midichlorians to get that saber ignited without a controlbox :lol
Speaking of which if you want your controlbox to look screen-used you're almost set. :love

I just remember that I must have a hole bag full with normal red and green leds somewhere at my parents place which I could file in the correct 4 mm size . . . hmm tempting thoughts if I had no ◄ ► at all, however for now . . . I'm quite content accept for that Tri-ring position . . .

-Chaim
 
I just remember that I must have a hole bag full with normal red and green leds somewhere at my parents place which I could file in the correct 4 mm size

If they're standard 5mm LEDs, you won't be able to file them down to the correct 4mm equilateral triangle; you'd end up with something closer to 3mm. You'd need an 8mm or 10mm LED, but the leadframe inside may be too large at that point.
 
Hi TridCloudwalker,

Thanks for the heads up. The ones back home might be even smaller then 8 or 10 mm so I won't bother.

By the way I tried adding an extra piece about 1.5 mm just to see if I could get the Tri-ring in the correct
position but to no avail ... it was to thick and made of the wrong outer diameter thus looking rather awkward :cry

-Chaim
 
Thanks Joe for your soothing words.

I did finish the painting/touching up on the neck. Here's the weathered result :

BrassNeck01.JPG


This is an inbetween shot of the Luke ROTJ lightsaber until I get that Tri-Ring fixed :

LukeROTJHero02.JPG



-Chaim
 
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Looks beautiful.

Wish you weren't overseas. I'd have you ship it to me, so I could fix the ring for you, but the postage cost just wouldn't be worth it...at least, I don't think it's worth the cost. If you think otherwise and want me to fix it for you, I'd be happy to. You're better off finding someone closer though. I seem to recall there being a sabersmith in Denmark, but I don't remember who.
 
Thanks for the offer TridCloudwalker,

Indeed the costs nowadays are off the scale for getting lightsabers shipped overseas however perhaps . . . I could
take the next shuttle tyderium just around the corner, which is also a lot cheaper . . . ;)

StarWarsCelebrationExcel2007.JPG


. . . and quite an easy means of transportation back in 2007 from Groningen to London when attending STAR WARS
Celebration Europe as a volunteer for LFL and Cards Inc.

-Chaim
 
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One more issue that came up.

I weathered my whatever plated Tri-ring using model enamel paints matt reddish brown and matt dark brown and matt black with multiple
layers however the silver of the original chrome/silver-like color keeps coming through in tiny little spots. I know ... I know looking back on it
I should have cleaned the Tri-ring with a cleaner then added a proper coating before putting on the colors. I was to eager to see the end-
result ( "You must learn patience" :rolleyes: ) now that I have not, what would you suggest I could do next to get rid of those re-emerging spots
without having to start the weathering paintjob all over again? :confused:

Original Tri-ring :

LukeROTJTRI02.JPG


After several painted layers :

LukeROTJTRI03.JPG


And final weathered result with spots appearing
albeit not quite visible in this picture :

LukeROTJTRI01.JPG


All suggestions are very welcome,

-Chaim
 
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The only suggestion I can think of for fixing the tri-ring without starting over and putting on a primer coat, is to touch up the areas where the silver is showing through, then mask off the rest of the saber, then spray on a whole bunch of thin coats of clear matte spray. It should make it a little more sturdy, but you're still going to have to be careful not to rub or tap at the ring too much.

Ideally though, you should just take the ring off, and dunk it in some acid for a little bit so that it rusts for real.
 
Man this build looks great! I like the detail and effort you are putting into a piece that casual fans would think is not important. (I love accuracy...)
 
Hi thanks for your suggestions gentlemen.

@TridCloudwalker I forgot to mention that somewhere inbetween the layers is already a coat of clear matt paint. Did not work still tiny spots appearing and I even heated up the last layers of paint to make it stick a little more, something I read in a thread about painting the grenade body parts!
Ideally I should take the ring off indeed and do as you suggested. Would this also work if the ring is nickle/ chrome? plated? I'll try your suggestions when my paintjob has come off entirely, meanwhile it becomes a nice USED-FUTURE LOOK :love

@Thanks Shade88 'Accuracy' is my middle name :lol

@Kurtyboy well I have plenty of copper foil left if you like to have the MoM version and also some brass L shape enough for one more controlbox and a brass activator board to make the screen-used version :D

-Chaim
 
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